Search Results (31)

The transition to circular models in fashion and textiles requires changes that go beyond technical innovation. The literature recognises that systemic change depends on the transformation of shared meanings around consumption and production, and that spaces for co-design and collaborative learning are crucial to generating this transformation. This article documents how Living Labs operate in this capacity, analysing the Madeback Circular Fashion Festival (May–November 2025), a pilot project of the Fashion & Textile Living Lab at the Politecnico di Milano. The study employs the Living Lab Integrative Process (LLIP) as both a design framework and an analytical lens. Adopting a qualitative and participatory method, the study documents how the three spaces of the LLIP—Problem Space, Solution Space and Implementation Space—simultaneously structured both design innovation and empirical analysis. The results point to three main contributions: (i) Living Labs can function as cultural infrastructures in which performative and narrative dimensions may contribute to the gradual normalisation of alternative practices; (ii) the Quadruple Helix operates as a living process characterised by distributed intentionality and emerging trust; and (iii) transformative learning appears through the co-production of knowledge in embodied and relational practices. The article identifies contextual factors that enabled the project—from its location in a design university to its multi-year funding—and the related constraints on transferability, concluding that Living Labs are promising infrastructures for sustainable transitions when they consciously integrate performative, cultural and relational dimensions. Full article

Fin-de-siècle decadence—marked by symbolism, dandyism, aesthetic withdrawal, and defiance of bourgeois norms—has long been reimagined beyond its original European contours. Vladimir Nabokov’s Ada or Ardor: A Family Chronicle exemplifies this transformation by extending decadent aesthetics into the domains of modern physics, perception, and experimental temporality. While Ada is often read as a retreat into aestheticism, this paper argues that Nabokov reconfigures decadence through a radical engagement with time, science, and sensual consciousness. Through Van Veen’s philosophical treatise “The Texture of Time”—a burlesque of Bergsonian introspection—Nabokov constructs a vision of purified, de-spatialized, and self-reflexive time that destabilises the boundary between decadent and modernist aesthetics. The novel fuses metaphysical decadence with Bergsonian duration, creating a poetic meditation on temporality as both perceptual and sensual experience. Through intricate linguistic play—anagrams, palindromes, and recursive narrative structures—Nabokov fashions a labyrinthine temporality that mirrors the paradoxes of the decadent imagination: time that is linear yet cyclical, finite yet infinitely recurrent. Positioning Ada within broader debates on the afterlife of decadence, this paper examines how Nabokov preserves the movement’s aesthetic essence while transforming it through scientific analogy and linguistic experimentation. Ada simultaneously honours and subverts decadence, reimagining its hedonism and nostalgia within a cosmological framework that renders temporality itself a site of aesthetic play and metaphysical desire. Full article

Since its origins, the debate on the interaction between religions and psychoactives has been strongly influenced, both positively and negatively, by prejudices, policies, fashions and trends that had little to do with scientific research. Stigma and exaltation in different historical moments have equally characterized the study of the presence and use of so-called entheogens in the different declinations of the shamanic phenomenon around the world. This article attempts to shed light on the various trends regarding the state of the art, providing new epistemological elements on the basis of an ethnographic investigation among some Indigenous peoples of India. The production of alcoholic beverages (fermented and distilled, but sometimes in combination with other psychoactive or hallucinogens among the starters) is a fundamental trait of the aboriginal (ādivāsī) cultures of the Indian subcontinent. Not immune from an attempt at political instrumentalization, which occurred both in the colonial period and in the contemporary era, the discourse on the natural production of these sacred substances is today the key to understanding indigenous ontology and its traditional idea of sustainability. Far beyond the mere documentation of the induction of altered states of consciousness, this investigation involves the discovery of local pharmacopeias, as well as principles of fermentation and food preservation. Full article

This paper identifies the salient features of feedforward control and the advantages that it provides vis-à-vis feedback control. These advantages are especially salient in strategic control situations and also during periods of environmental turbulence and extreme strategic discontinuity. Consciously adopting a feedforward orientation in organizational strategic management processes could enhance an organization’s competitive advantages and potentially lead to sustainable, superior performance. Additionally, broadening the conceptual definition of feedforward (from its cybernetic origins) to also include strategic foresight might also enable organizations to develop dynamic capabilities. The example of Zara, a leader in ‘fast-fashion’ retailing, is presented as an example of how feedforward attributes can be identified, inculcated, and ingrained/retained as organizational attributes that become a part of an organization’s DNA. Moreover, when severe external environmental disruptions inevitably erode an organization’s resource bases and pose an existential threat to the organization’s survival, such a feedforward orientation could be the catalyst for coping, adapting, and developing new dynamic capabilities. These new capabilities can not only help organizations to counter newly emergent threats and survive, but also help them to dynamically cultivate and develop newer sources of competitive advantages. Full article

This paper addresses the fifth-century comic coinage gnômotupos, which has not otherwise received scholarly attention. Translators of Aristophanes and Aristotle have typically glossed it into English as “maxim-coining” (with equivalents in other languages). This is a sensible inference from a fourth-century use of γνώμη, “maxim”, and the verb τύπτειν, “stamping”. It also tracks the importance of maxims to Sophistic-era adoption of wisdom-culture and the lore of the Seven Sages. Nevertheless, this typical gloss is incorrect. The term instead emphasizes “idea”, as an insight, technique, or view relevant to some matter. “Stamping” (τύπτειν) an idea means coming up with an apt idea and giving it shape and articulacy. In a characteristic use of the adjective, Aristophanes speaks of gnômotupoi andres (Frogs). These are men who are skilled at “fashioning ideas”, coming up with their content and their form. My claim is that Aristophanes has captured something crucial about the period we call the Sophistic movement or Greek enlightenment. The formulation, circulation, and competition of ideas is a matter of increasing self-consciousness in Athens. So too are those who formulate, circulate, and compete in them: intellectuals or, as gnômotupoi andres might be translated, “ideas-men.” I even contend that those referred to as “sophists”, sophistai, may in many ways be understood as gnômotupoi andres. Full article

This study investigates the factors influencing consumers’ willingness to purchase recycled and secondhand clothing as part of sustainable fashion. Using a model constructed with six latent variables—environmental consciousness, perceived value, interest in fashion, social media use, uniqueness, and purchase intention—data were gathered through an online survey targeting Japanese consumers. The findings reveal that consumer perceptions of social responsibility and environmental values significantly impact their purchasing intentions. Uniqueness plays a key role in shaping purchase decisions for secondhand clothing, while it has no significant effect on recycled clothing, emphasizing the need for tailored marketing strategies. This study offers a comprehensive examination of consumer behavior in the sustainable fashion industry, providing crucial insights for the development of segmented marketing strategies that cater to the distinct motivations and preferences of consumers. Full article

Background/Objectives: Routine postoperative ICU admission following brain tumor surgery may not benefit selected patients. The objective of this study was to develop a risk prediction instrument for early (within 24 h) postoperative adverse events using machine learning techniques. Methods: Retrospective cohort of 1000 consecutive adult patients undergoing elective brain tumor resection. Nine events/interventions (CPR, reintubation, return to OR, mechanical ventilation, vasopressors, impaired consciousness, intracranial hypertension, swallowing disorders, and death) were chosen as target variables. Potential prognostic features (n = 27) from five categories were chosen and a gradient boosting algorithm (XGBoost) was trained and cross-validated in a 5 × 5 fashion. Prognostic performance, potential clinical impact, and relative feature importance were analyzed. Results: Adverse events requiring ICU intervention occurred in 9.2% of cases. Other events not requiring ICU treatment were more frequent (35% of cases). The boosted decision trees yielded a cross-validated ROC-AUC of 0.81 ± 0.02 (mean ± CI95) when using pre- and post-op data. Using only pre-op data (scheduling decisions), ROC-AUC was 0.76 ± 0.02. PR-AUC was 0.38 ± 0.04 and 0.27 ± 0.03 for pre- and post-op data, respectively, compared to a baseline value (random classifier) of 0.092. Targeting a NPV of at least 95% would require ICU admission in just 15% (pre- and post-op data) or 30% (only pre-op data) of cases when using the prediction algorithm. Conclusions: Adoption of a risk prediction instrument based on boosted trees can support decision-makers to optimize ICU resource utilization while maintaining adequate patient safety. This may lead to a relevant reduction in ICU admissions for surveillance purposes. Full article

Circular fashion has gained attention among practitioners and academics. We further contribute to this debate by investigating leasing in the context of rented online clothing in greater depth. First, we conduct a qualitative study and identify several themes important to individuals when renting clothing online. The findings are as follows: social representation, green value, familiarity and innovativeness. Several categories emerged from the interviews with the respondents in relation to social representation: use of technology, feeling good when renting clothing online and renting clothing online as a necessity. Familiarity factors relate to circular fashion’s role in reducing perceived risks associated with a relatively new service in the market. Green value perceptions have emerged among respondents that reflect a growing environmental consciousness. Second, based on the initial qualitative findings, we introduce an ad-hoc theoretical model and put forward propositions. Our theoretical model emphasises the role of four antecedents (i.e., social representation, green value, familiarity and innovativeness) when influencing consumer willingness to rent clothing online and a shift towards circular consumption. We develop theoretical propositions and provide recommendations to marketing managers and public policy makers regarding how to encourage a change towards circular consumption behaviour among individuals. Full article

Identifying consciousness in other creatures, be they animals or exotic creatures that have yet to be discovered, remains a great scientific challenge. We delineate the first three steps that we think are necessary for identifying consciousness in other creatures. Step 1 is to define the particular kind of consciousness in which one is interested. Step 2 is to identify, in humans, the key differences between the brain processes that are associated with consciousness and the brain processes that are not associated with consciousness. For Step 2, to identify these differences, we focus on passive frame theory. Step 3 concerns how the insights derived from consciousness research on humans (e.g., concerning these differences) can be generalized to other creatures. We discuss the significance of examining how consciousness was fashioned by the process of evolution, a process that could be happenstance and replete with incessant tinkering, yielding adaptations that can be suboptimal and counterintuitive, far different in nature from our efficiently designed robotic systems. We conclude that the more that is understood about the differences between conscious processing and unconscious processing in humans, the easier it will be to identify consciousness in other creatures. Full article

We sought to determine the role of the patient-specific, three-dimensional (3D) holographic vascular model in patient medical knowledge and its influence on obtaining a more conscious informed consent process for percutaneous balloon angioplasty (PTA). Patients with peripheral arterial disease who had been scheduled for PTA were enrolled in the study. Information regarding the primary disease, planned procedure, and informed consent was recorded in typical fashion. Subsequently, the disease and procedure details were presented to the patient, showing the patients their individual model. A patient and medical supervisor equipped with mixed reality headsets could both simultaneously manipulate the hologram using gestures. The holographic 3D model had been created on a scale of 1:1 based on computed tomography scans. The patient’s knowledge was tested by the completion of a questionnaire before and after the interaction in a mixed reality environment. Seventy-nine patients manipulated arterial holograms in mixed reality head-mounted devices. Before the 3D holographic artery model interaction, the mean ± standard deviation score of the knowledge test was 2.95 ± 1.21 points. After the presentation, the score had increased to 4.39 ± 0.82, with a statistically significant difference (p = 0.0000) between the two scores. Using a Likert scale from 1 to 5, the patients had scored the use of the 3D holographic model at 3.90 points regarding its usefulness in comprehending their medical condition; at 4.04 points regarding the evaluation of the holograms as helpful in understanding the course of surgery; and rated the model at 1.99 points in reducing procedure-related stress. Using a nominal scale (know or don’t know), the patients had self-assessed their knowledge of the procedure before and after the 3D model presentation, with a score of 6.29 ± 2.01 and 8.39 ± 1.54, respectively. The study group tolerated the use of head-mounted devices. Only one patient had nausea and dizziness, while four patients experienced transient eye pain. The 3D holographic arterial model aided in the understanding of patients’ knowledge regarding the disease and procedure, making the informed consent process more conscious. The holograms improved the patient’s self-consciousness. Mixed reality headset-related complications were rare and within acceptable rates. Full article

The current picture of sports coaching suggests one where practitioners and scholars operate not so much at a particular interface, but rather on parallel lines of development; in essence, of talking past as opposed to each other. Through a critical re-reading of the practitioner–scholar divide, this paper takes issue with the existence of the separate identities featured, in addition to the argument that we merely need a better, rather straightforward, connection between theory and practice to ‘fix the problem’. Alternatively, the case made highlights how the problematic ‘othering’ nature of a theory–practice division has severely hampered the development of the field. In terms of structure, we initially challenge existing ‘anti-intellectual’ claims within coaching, essentially by advocating for better appreciating the everyday, socio-pedagogic nature of the activity. In this respect, the relegation of experience, of the inherent ‘code of coaching’ (so dear to coaches themselves), is protected against. Secondly, we promote the idea of encouraging coaches, coaching scholars, and coach educators to consider the indivisibility of theory and practice through the use of such notions as sensitizing concepts, internalisation, and authenticity to improve the ‘doing’ of the job. Of particular importance here is the development and utilisation of a critical consciousness of coaching; not only of thoroughly understanding the activity, but also in actively fashioning it through engagement with new ideas. This latter notion gives required credence, however loosely, to some guiding frame of reference; otherwise we become enmeshed in, and blinded by, the immediate. In dismantling the wall that has divided practitioners and scholars by not giving authority or indeed acceptance to such fixed positions, we alternatively advocate for the creation of a more authentic coaching life through living the theory that actively sustains it. Full article

The COVID-19 pandemic has significantly impacted societies worldwide, leading to challenges in ensuring well-being and sustainability. In this context, it is essential to better understand consumer consciousness of pro-environmental products from the perspective of well-being. Therefore, our cross-national investigation aimed to explore the relationship between subjective well-being (SWB) and sustainable luxury consumption during the pandemic. We analyzed data from 800 respondents in China and Japan during the pandemic. Our findings, obtained through partial least squares structural equation modeling, reveal novel insights. First, SWB positively influences pro-environmental behavioral intentions, even in luxury fashion consumption. This highlights the potential for individuals to make sustainable choices, while indulging in luxury products. Additionally, we observed variations in the impact of subjective happiness and life satisfaction on luxury consumption between China and Japan. Specifically, the influence of subjective happiness was more pronounced in China than in Japan, indicating cultural distinctions in the relationship between well-being and luxury consumption. Moreover, our study identifies consumer novelty seeking as a mediator linking SWB to sustainable luxury consumption. This discovery provides a further understanding of the relationships explored in our study. These findings deepen our understanding of the interplay between well-being and sustainable luxury consumption, thereby informing strategies to promote pro-environmental behaviors in the luxury fashion sector. Full article

This study investigated consumer behaviors in conspicuous omni-signaling—its internal motivations and its consequences on social needs fulfilment and re-consumption intention in the context of luxury fashion. A phenomenon of conspicuous consumption is identified with the consumption and display of conspicuous goods to signal status, wealth, and prestige. Digital development has made conspicuous signaling radically emerge in social media through the posting of photos, videos, or stories of luxury goods. This drives an emerging phenomenon of conspicuous omni-signaling, the use of both offline and online media to signal conspicuous consumption hybridlike. As a new phenomenon, little is known of consumer behaviors related to conspicuous omni-signaling. To facilitate the investigation, an online survey was conducted to collect data from 474 valid respondents across eight cities representing various conspicuous consumption characteristics of Indonesian consumers. Veblen’s conspicuous consumption and Maslow’s hierarchy of needs theories were employed as the main lens for analysis. PLS-SEM technique was employed as the research model uses mixed reflective and formative constructs. WarpPLS 7.0 was then used for data analysis. The results indicated that luxury values and fashion consciousness positively affect conspicuous omni-signaling. This study also found that conspicuous omni-signaling affects conspicuous re-consumption both directly and indirectly through social needs fulfilment. This study contributes to extend the concept of conspicuous offline consumption and conspicuous online consumption to conspicuous omni-signaling. This study also confirms conflicting results in the effect of conspicuous consumption on social needs fulfilment, and conflicting results in the effect of conspicuous consumption on conspicuous re-consumption. Full article

Due to environmental concerns, an increasing number of Chinese consumers have begun to resist fast fashion, promoting cheap and lower quality materials with a short lifetime. A shift from a linear economic model to a circular fashion has become an urgent issue for the industry. To examine how brand stereotype affects consumers’ purchasing intention toward upcycled fabric clothing, this study adopted a grounded theory approach to develop the dimensions of brand stereotypes, including product, manufacturing process, service, and communication. Furthermore, a theoretical model was constructed incorporating brand stereotypes, brand green trust, fashion consciousness, and green consciousness. Results from structural equation model analysis indicated that (1) each dimension of brand stereotypes had a significantly positive impact on behavior intention, and especially product and service image have the most influence; (2) brand green trust mediated the relationship between brand stereotypes and buying intention, and (3) green consciousness positively moderated the relationship between brand stereotype and trust, whereas brand warmth in communication and trust was moderated negatively by fashion consciousness. The findings offer implications for the implementation of the green branding strategy, brand positioning, and cultivating consumers’ green awareness to improve market acceptance of upcycled fabric clothing. Full article

The secondary luxury market is a recent phenomenon attributed to changing consumer beliefs that influence their consumption process. The purpose of this study was to explain consumption behaviors of secondary luxury consumers by investigating secondary consumer beliefs and purchase intention, specifically in the context of online shopping. An online survey was created in Qualtrics to collect data. After a preliminary analysis, structural equation modeling was used to conduct a confirmatory factory analysis and to test the hypothesized relationships. The findings revealed that all consumer beliefs, including environmental, frugality, online retailing, and fashion consciousness, positively influenced consumers’ attitudes and subsequent purchase intention for second-hand luxury items from online secondary luxury retailers. This study added to the literature by utilizing the Theory of Planned Behavior framework and incorporating the secondary luxury consumer beliefs. Ultimately, the researchers were able to better understand this online secondary luxury consumer and what influences the consumer to purchase secondary luxury goods from online retailers such as The RealReal. Full article