Search Results (11)

In this study, a low-cost, software-defined Global Positioning System (GPS) and Satellite-Based Augmentation System (SBAS) Reflectometry (GPS&SBAS-R) system has been built and proposed to measure ocean-surface wave parameters on board the research vessel New Ocean Researcher 1 (R/V NOR-1) of Taiwan. A power-law, ocean-wave spectrum model has been used and applied with the Small Perturbation Method approach to solve the electromagnetic wave scattering problem from rough ocean surface, and compared with experimental seaborne GPS&SBAS-R observations. Meanwhile, the intensity scintillations of high-sampling GPS&SBAS-R signal acquisition data are thought to be caused by the moving of rough surfaces of the targeted ocean. We found that each derived scintillation power spectrum is a Fresnel-filtering result on ocean-surface elevation fluctuations and depends on the First Fresnel Zone (FFZ) distance and the ocean-surface wave velocity. The determined ocean-surface wave speeds have been compared and validated against nearby buoy measurements. Full article

Long records of wave parameters are central to the estimation of coastal flooding risk and the causes of coastal erosion. This paper leverages the predictive power of wave height history and correlations with wind speed and direction to build statistical models for time series of wave heights to develop a method to fill data-gaps and extend the record length of coastal wave observations. A threshold regression model is built where the threshold parameter, based on lagged wind speed, explains the nonlinear associations, and the lagged predictors in the model are based on a well-established empirical wind-wave relationship. The predictive model is completed by addressing the residual conditional heteroscedasticity using a GARCH model. This comprehensive model is trained on time series data from 2005 to 2013, using wave height and wind data both observed from a buoy in Long Island Sound. Subsequently, replacing wind data with observations from a nearby coastal station provides a similar level of predictive accuracy. This approach can be used to hindcast wave heights for past decades given only wind information at a coastal station. These hindcasts are used as a representative of the unobserved past to carry out extreme value analysis by fitting Generalized Pareto (GP) distribution in a peaks over threshold (POT) framework. By analyzing longer periods of data, we can obtain reliable return value estimates to help design better coastal protection structures. Full article

GNSS equipped buoys remain an important tool in altimetry validation. Progressive advances in altimetry missions require associated development in such validation tools. In this paper, we enhanced an existing buoy approach and gained further understanding of the buoy dynamics based on in situ observations. First, we implemented the capability to separate the ambiguity fixing strategy for different constellations in the processing software TRACK. A comparison between GPS and GNSS solutions suggested up to 3 cm reduction in the root mean square of the buoy minus co-located mooring SSH residuals over the selected sidereal periods. Then, comparison between double differencing and precise point positioning solutions suggested a possible common mode error external to GNSS processing. To assess buoy performance in different ocean conditions and sea states, GNSS and INS observations were used during periods where external forcings (waves, current and wind) were not interacting substantially. For the deployments investigated, no significant relationship was found, noting the maximum significant wave height and current velocity was ~2.3 m and ~0.3 m/s, respectively. In the lead up to the validation required for the SWOT mission, these results place important bounds on the performance of the buoy design under real operating conditions. Full article

In this study, the tsunami-induced bottom boundary layer was investigated based on actual waveforms obtained by the GPS buoys along the coast of the Tohoku region during the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake tsunami. The k-ω model was utilized for the numerical analysis in this study. As a result, the tsunami boundary layer thickness was found to be extremely thin compared to the water depth. The velocity distribution was similar to that of the bottom boundary layer under wind-generated waves. The flow regime is located in the transition from smooth turbulence to rough turbulence. Because of this, the gradient of the flow across the layer is much greater than the gradients in the steady flow direction. Therefore, the bottom friction is underestimated if the steady friction factor, such as in the Manning formula, is used. This study proposes a new simple method for calculating the bottom shear stress due to an irregular tsunami based on the wave friction law, and the k-ω model results are used to validate the proposed methods. Full article

Drifting buoys collect wave data in the open ocean far from land and in areas with strong currents. However, the validation of the drifting buoy wave data is limited. Here, we compared the drifting buoy wave data, ERA5 wave data, and moored GPS buoy wave data. Data from 2009 to 2018 near the coast of Japan were used. The agreement of the drifting buoy-observed wave parameters with the moored GPS buoy-observed wave parameters is better than that of ERA5 wave parameters, which is statistically significant. In particular, the accuracy of the ERA5 wave heights tends to be lower where the ocean currents are fast. On the other hand, the agreement between the drifting buoy-observed wave heights and the moored GPS buoy-observed wave heights was good even in the areas with strong currents. It is confirmed that the drifting buoy wave data can be used as reference data for wave modeling study. Full article

The assimilated coastal wave data are useful for wave climate study, coastal engineering, and design for marine disaster protection. However, the assimilated coastal wave data are few. Here, wave analysis data produced by the JMA (Japan Meteorological Agency) and ERA5 wave data were compared with GPS (Global Positioning System) buoy-measured wave data. In addition, the accuracy of ERA5 wave data for various conditions was investigated. The accuracy of JMA analysis wave height was better than that of ERA5 wave height. The ERA5 wave height was underestimated as the wave height increased. The accuracy of the ERA5 wave height was significantly different in fetch-unlimited and fetch-limited conditions. The difference of the skill metrics between fetch-unlimited and fetch-limited conditions was due to the overestimation of the fetch in the ERA5 grid. This result also applied to the wave period. Full article

In this paper, the advantages of shaping a non-conventional triple collocation-based calibration of a wave propagation model is pointed out. Illustrated through a case study in the Bagnoli-Coroglio Bay (central Tyrrhenian Sea, Italy), a multi-comparison between numerical data and direct measurements have been carried out. The nearshore wave propagation model output has been compared with measurements from an acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) and an innovative low-cost drifter-derived GPS-based wave buoy located outside the bay. The triple collocation—buoy, ADCP and virtual numerical point—make possible an implicit validation between instrumentations and between instrumentation and numerical model. The procedure presented here advocates for an alternative “two-step” strategy. Indeed, the triple collocation technique has been used solely to provide a first “rough” calibration of one numerical domain in which the input open boundary has been placed, so that the main wave direction is orthogonally aligned. The need for a fast and sufficiently accurate estimation of wave model parameters (first step) and then an ensemble of five different offshore boundary orientations have been considered, referencing for a more detailed calibration to a short time series of a GPS-buoy installed in the study area (second step). Such a stage involves the introduction of an enhancement factor for the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) dataset, used as input for the model. Finally, validation of the final model’s predictions has been carried out by comparing ADCP measurements in the bay. Despite some limitations, the results reveal that the approach is promising and an excellent correlation can be found, especially in terms of significant wave height. Full article

The objective of the present study is to achieve a better understanding of the possible rotation of embayed beaches using shoreline position data from two beaches on the central Tyrrhenian Sea (Italy) during a 64-year period. With this aim, this study tests the utility of Differential Global Positioning System (DGPS) and GPS RTK (Real Time Kinematic) dual-frequency navigation system for the in situ surveys, low-altitude aerial imagery collected by Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (UAV), and satellite polarimetric Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) measurements. The dataset consists of aerial photographs and orthophotos, DGPS, and remote surveys performed by UAV and SAR platform in 2018 along with wave data coming from the Ponza buoy. The results of the field data analysis explained a part of the beach variations in terms of coastline rotation around a virtual pivotal point. This rotation has been correlated with the wave directional shift in the recent period. The results of the comparison between the different techniques gave the possibility to investigate the limitations of remote survey methods for the identification of shoreline rotation. Full article

In recent years, the GPS wave buoy has been developed for in situ wave monitoring based on satellite GPS signals. Many research works have been completed on the GPS-based wave measurement technology and great progress has been achieved. The basic principle of the GPS wave buoy is to calculate the movement velocity of the buoy using the Doppler frequency shift of satellite GPS signals, and then to calculate the wave parameters from the movement velocity according to ocean wave theory. The shortage of the GPS wave buoy is the occasional occurrence of some unusual values in the movement velocity. This is mainly due to the fact that the GPS antenna is occasionally covered by sea water and cannot normally receive high-quality satellite GPS signals. The traditional solution is to remove these unusual movement velocity values from the records, which requires furthering extend the acquisition time of satellite GPS signals to ensure there is a large enough quantity of effective movement velocity values. Based on the traditional GPS wave measurement technology, this paper presents the algorithmic flow and proposes two improvement measures. On the one hand, the neural network algorithm is used to correct the unusual movement velocity data so that extending the acquisition time of satellite GPS signals is not necessary and battery power is saved. On the other hand, the Gaussian low-pass filter is used to correct the raw directional wave spectrum, which can further eliminate the influence of noise spectrum energy and improve the measurement accuracy. The on-site sea test of the SBF7-1A GPS wave buoy, developed by the National Ocean Technology Center in China, and the gravity-acceleration-type DWR-MKIII Waverider buoy are highlighted in this article. The wave data acquired by the two buoys are analyzed and processed. It can be seen from the processed results that the ocean wave parameters from the two kinds of wave buoys, such as wave height, wave period, wave direction, wave frequency spectrum, and directional wave spectrum, are in good consistency, indicating that the SBF7-1A GPS wave buoy is comparable to the traditional gravity-acceleration-type wave buoy in terms of its accuracy. Therefore, the feasibility and validity of the two improvement measures proposed in this paper are confirmed. Full article

Radar remote sensing of the sea surface for the extraction of ocean surface wave fields requires separating wave and non-wave contributions to the sea surface measurement. Conventional methods of extracting wave information from radar measurements of the sea surface rely on filtering the wavenumber-frequency spectrum using the linear dispersion relationship for ocean surface waves. However, this technique has limitations, e.g., it isn’t suited for the inclusion of non-linear wave features. This study evaluates an alternative method called proper orthogonal decomposition (POD) for the extraction of ocean surface wave fields remotely sensed by marine radar. POD is an empirical and optimal linear method for representing non-linear processes. The method was applied to Doppler velocity data of the sea surface collected using two different radar systems during two different experiments that spanned a variety of environmental conditions. During both experiments, GPS mini-buoys simultaneously collected wave data. The POD method was used to generate phase-resolved wave orbital velocity maps that are statistically evaluated by comparing wave statistics computed from the buoy data to those obtained from these maps. The results show that leading POD modes contain energy associated with the peak wavelength(s) of the measured wave field, and consequently, wave contributions to the radar measurement of the sea surface can be separated based on modes. Wave statistics calculated from optimized POD reconstructions are comparable to those calculated from GPS wave buoys. The accuracy of the wave statistics generated from POD-reconstructed orbital velocity maps was not sensitive to the radar configuration or environmental conditions examined. Further research is needed to determine a rigorous method for selecting modes a priori. Full article

This study presents the idea of using GPS-output velocity signals to obtain wave measurement data. The application of the transformation from a velocity spectrum to a displacement spectrum in conjunction with the directional wave spectral theory are the core concepts in this study. Laboratory experiments were conducted to verify the accuracy of the inversed displacement of the surface of the sea. A GPS device was installed on a moored accelerometer buoy to verify the GPS-derived wave parameters. It was determined that loss or drifting of the GPS signal, as well as energy spikes occurring in the low frequency band led to erroneous measurements. Through the application of moving average skill and a process of frequency cut-off to the GPS output velocity, correlations between GPS-derived, and accelerometer buoy-measured significant wave heights and periods were both improved to 0.95. The GPS-derived one-dimensional and directional wave spectra were in agreement with the measurements. Despite the direction verification showing a 10° bias, this exercise still provided useful information with sufficient accuracy for a number of specific purposes. The results presented in this study indicate that using GPS output velocity is a reasonable alternative for the measurement of ocean waves. Full article