Dear Colleagues,

The wave spectrum concept, in combination with the linear wave theory for ocean waters, is often used to describe wave propagation at the ocean scale with spectral energy balance. However, the involved physical processes increase in number and complexity as waves move from the deep ocean into coastal waters. To describe the strongly nonlinear dynamics of waves propagating through intermediate-depth waters and the final stages of shoaling and surf zones, fully nonlinear models with improved dispersion characteristics are currently being used. This is a topic that is worthy of major development, yet has remained underinvestigated in recent years.

Vulnerabilities and risks in coastal areas have increased, especially since the midpoint of the last century, and a much more pronounced increase is expected after the midpoint of the current century. It has become clear that human activity is the main cause of such imbalances, both directly, through local actions, and indirectly, through contributions to global warming and climate change. Oftentimes, traditional hard engineering protection techniques, such as the use of breakwaters, groins, seawalls and jetties, have caused a large amount of downdrift erosion problems with high associated costs. In addition, these structures are expensive, have high maintenance costs and may not be sustainable or even effective in reducing wave energy in the medium and long terms. Concerning ecological functions, these structures are not intended to create suitable and attractive environments for fish. On the contrary, these structures are truly short-lived and not eco-friendly. Therefore, the need to manage and maintain coastal areas, focusing on solutions based on nature and conducting research in the design of coastal adaptations for society, is of paramount importance.

Regarding ocean pollution, the natural and atmospheric sources of pollution in the marine environment account for only a small percentage of total ocean pollution (around 16%) when compared to the 37% attributed to urban and industrial loading and to the approximately 45% due to shipping (tank cleaning and unballasting) and oil tanker accidents. No less serious are oil and gas exploration and production operations that have the potential for a variety of impacts on the marine environment, linked to the presence of offshore structures, drilling fluid waste streams, well treatment chemicals and produced water. In addition, offshore drilling physically disrupts the deep-sea habitat and benthic community. The transition to full use of renewable energy will take some time and billions, if not trillions, of euros. More than a quarter of the current oil and gas supply is produced offshore, and it is estimated that by 2040 the amount of offshore energy-related activities will increase. The need to invest in and explore new technologies and equipment, as well as in effective monitoring and control procedures, is therefore becoming increasingly urgent.

This Special Issue aims to support researchers in different areas and assist local communities and coastal managers in carrying out operational coastal management by presenting and discussing management tools and new solutions that should be considered in adaptation programs to be implemented in coastal zones. Submissions describing modeling tools, mathematical developments, numerical implementations and case studies are of interest and will be subject to a peer review process to ensure the publication of high-quality articles.

Prof. Dr. José Simão Antunes Do Carmo
Prof. Dr. José Luís Silva Pinho
Guest Editors

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• deep ocean
• coastal zone
• sea level rise
• ocean pollution
• decision making
• hydrodynamics
• littoral dynamics
• coastal processes
• coastal defenses
• coastal management
• waves and currents
• storms and hurricanes
• adaptation technology
• adaptive management