A Comparison of the Fading of Dyestuffs as Textile Colourants and Lake Pigments
Abstract
1. Introduction
2. Materials and Methods
2.1. Light Exposure
2.2. Samples
2.2.1. Paint Samples
2.2.2. Textile Samples
2.3. Colour Measurement
2.4. Exposure Half-Lives
3. Results
3.1. Half-Lives
3.2. Red Pigments and Dyes
3.2.1. Cochineal-Containing Samples
3.2.2. Red Pigments
3.2.3. Red Dyes on Wool
3.3. Yellow Pigments, Yellow Wools, and Green Wools
3.4. Black Dyes on Wool
3.5. Admixtures with Lead White
3.6. The Dyeing Process
3.7. Eosin
4. Discussion and Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Data Availability Statement
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
References
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Code | Pigments (in Linseed Oil Medium) † |
---|---|
C3A | Cochineal C3 (Sn substrate) + lead white 1:20 w/w |
C3B | Cochineal C3 (Sn substrate) + lead white 1:8 w/w |
C6 | Cochineal C6 (Sn substrate + starch extender) |
CD1A | Cochineal CD1 (Al substrate) + lead white 1:40 w/w |
CD1B | Cochineal CD1 (Al substrate) + lead white 1:20 w/w |
CD1C | Cochineal CD1 (Al substrate) + lead white 1:8 w/w |
M7A | Madder lake from plant M7i |
MD6A | Madder lake from wool MD6ai |
E1 | Eosin lake E1 |
B10A | ‘Brazilwood’ BBr 10 * + lead white 1:40 w/w |
B10B | ‘Brazilwood’ BBr 10 * + lead white 1:10 w/w |
B10C | ‘Brazilwood’ BBr 10 * |
VE | Vermilion |
LW | Lead white |
ILW | Indigo + lead white |
PBC1 | Prussian blue SC + lead white 1:400 w/w |
PBC2 | Prussian blue SC + lead white 1:100 w/w |
PBC3 | Prussian blue SC + lead white 1:20 w/w |
SG | Sap green lake |
INY | Indigo + Naples yellow |
BLUW | Buckthorn lake BuDS3 + ultramarine + lead white |
GLW | Gamboge + lead white 1:3 v/v |
W6LW | Weld lake W6 (Al substrate) + lead white 1:3 v/v |
W7LW | Weld lake W7 (Al/Ca substrate) + lead white 1:3 v/v |
Code | Textiles (MODHT) |
---|---|
RW1A | Madder (mordanted + semelwater * and alum; dyed + semelwater) |
RW1B | Madder (mordanted + semelwater and alum; dyed + semelwater; treated + K2CO3) |
RW2A | Madder (mordanted + oak galls then + alum; dyed) |
RW2B | Madder (mordanted + oak galls then + alum; dyed; treated + K2CO3) |
RW3A | Brazilwood (mordanted + alum; dyed) |
RW3B | Brazilwood (mordanted + alum; dyed; treated + K2CO3) |
RW4 | Cochineal (mordanted + alum, D-tartaric acid, salt and sandalwood; dyed + starch, salt and turmeric) |
RW5 | Cochineal (mordanted + alum, D-tartaric acid, salt and sandalwood; dyed + gum arabic, alum, salt and turmeric) |
BKW1 | Black (mordanted + oak galls; dyed + Fe(II) sulfate; all hanks rinsed together) |
BKW2 | Black (mordanted + oak galls; dyed + Fe(II) sulfate; hanks rinsed separately) |
BKW3 | Black (mordanted + alder bark; dyed + Fe(II) sulfate) |
BKW4 | Black (mordanted + oak galls; dyed + Cu(II) + Fe(II) sulfates) |
YW1 | Weld (mordanted + alum; dyed + K2CO3) |
YW2 | Dyer’s broom (mordanted + alum; dyed + K2CO3) |
GW1 | Green (weld as in YW1, overdyed with woad indigo) |
GW2 | Green (woad indigo, overdyed with weld as in YW1) |
IW1 | Indigo (all woad indigo dyed by the late John Edmonds) |
Sample | Sample Code | Half-Life (Mlux·h) |
---|---|---|
Cochineal C3 (Sn substrate) + lead white 1:20 w/w | C3A | 27 |
Cochineal C3 (Sn substrate) + lead white 1:8 w/w | C3B | 80 |
Cochineal CD1 (Al substrate) + lead white 1:40 w/w | CD1A | 26 |
Cochineal CD1 (Al substrate) + lead white 1:20 w/w | CD1B | 29 |
Cochineal CD1 (Al substrate) + lead white 1:8 w/w | CD1C | 46 |
Madder lake from wool MD6ai | MD6A | 114 |
Madder lake from plant M7i | M7A | 120 |
Eosin lake E1 | E1 | 8 |
‘Brazilwood’ BBr 10 + lead white 1:40 w/w | B10A | 6 |
‘Brazilwood’ BBr 10 + lead white 1:10 w/w | B10B | 12 |
‘Brazilwood’ BBr 10 | B10C | 36 |
Weld lake W6 (Al substrate) + lead white 1:3 v/v | W6LW | 25 |
Weld lake W7 (Al/Ca substrate) + lead white 1:3 v/v | W7LW | 29 |
Madder (mordanted + semelwater and alum; dyed + semelwater) | RW1A | 59 |
Madder (mordanted + semelwater and alum; dyed + semelwater; treated + K2CO3) | RW1B | 60 |
Madder (mordanted + oak galls then + alum; dyed) | RW2A | 55 |
Madder (mordanted + oak galls then + alum; dyed; treated + K2CO3) | RW2B | 52 |
Brazilwood (mordanted + alum; dyed) | RW3A | 21 |
Brazilwood (mordanted + alum; dyed; treated + K2CO3) | RW3B | 21 |
Cochineal (mordanted + alum, D-tartaric acid, salt and sandalwood; dyed + starch, salt and turmeric) | RW4 | 53 |
Cochineal (mordanted + alum, D-tartaric acid, salt and sandalwood; dyed + gum arabic, alum, salt and turmeric) | RW5 | 43 |
Weld (mordanted +alum; dyed + K2CO3) | YW1 | 30 |
Dyer’s broom (mordanted +alum; dyed + K2CO3) | YW2 | 32 |
Green (weld as in YW1, overdyed with woad indigo) | GW1 | 27 |
Green (woad indigo, overdyed with weld as in YW1) | GW2 | 24 |
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Kirby, J.; Saunders, D. A Comparison of the Fading of Dyestuffs as Textile Colourants and Lake Pigments. Heritage 2025, 8, 260. https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage8070260
Kirby J, Saunders D. A Comparison of the Fading of Dyestuffs as Textile Colourants and Lake Pigments. Heritage. 2025; 8(7):260. https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage8070260
Chicago/Turabian StyleKirby, Jo, and David Saunders. 2025. "A Comparison of the Fading of Dyestuffs as Textile Colourants and Lake Pigments" Heritage 8, no. 7: 260. https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage8070260
APA StyleKirby, J., & Saunders, D. (2025). A Comparison of the Fading of Dyestuffs as Textile Colourants and Lake Pigments. Heritage, 8(7), 260. https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage8070260