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Safety Testing of Cosmetic Products: Overview of Established Methods and New Approach Methodologies (NAMs)

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PKDERM Laboratories, 45 Boulevard Marcel Pagnol, 06130 Grasse, France
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GenEvolutioN, 4 rue des Fréres Montgolfier, 78710 Rosny Sur Seine, France
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SenzaGen AB, 22381 Lund, Sweden
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Laboratoire Watchfrog, 1 rue Pierre Fontaine, 91000 Evry, France
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Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Academic Editor: Kalliopi Dodou
Cosmetics 2021, 8(2), 50; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8020050
Received: 21 May 2021 / Revised: 7 June 2021 / Accepted: 8 June 2021 / Published: 11 June 2021
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Evolving Practices in the Quality Control of Cosmetics)
Cosmetic products need to have a proven efficacy combined with a comprehensive toxicological assessment. Before the current Cosmetic regulation N°1223/2009, the 7th Amendment to the European Cosmetics Directive has banned animal testing for cosmetic products and for cosmetic ingredients in 2004 and 2009, respectively. An increasing number of alternatives to animal testing has been developed and validated for safety and efficacy testing of cosmetic products and cosmetic ingredients. For example, 2D cell culture models derived from human skin can be used to evaluate anti-inflammatory properties, or to predict skin sensitization potential; 3D human skin equivalent models are used to evaluate skin irritation potential; and excised human skin is used as the gold standard for the evaluation of dermal absorption. The aim of this manuscript is to give an overview of the main in vitro and ex vivo alternative models used in the safety testing of cosmetic products with a focus on regulatory requirements, genotoxicity potential, skin sensitization potential, skin and eye irritation, endocrine properties, and dermal absorption. Advantages and limitations of each model in safety testing of cosmetic products are discussed and novel technologies capable of addressing these limitations are presented. View Full-Text
Keywords: cosmetic product safety; non-animal-testing methodologies; dermal absorption; skin irritation; skin sensitization; genotoxicity; endocrine disruptors cosmetic product safety; non-animal-testing methodologies; dermal absorption; skin irritation; skin sensitization; genotoxicity; endocrine disruptors
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MDPI and ACS Style

Barthe, M.; Bavoux, C.; Finot, F.; Mouche, I.; Cuceu-Petrenci, C.; Forreryd, A.; Chérouvrier Hansson, A.; Johansson, H.; Lemkine, G.F.; Thénot, J.-P.; Osman-Ponchet, H. Safety Testing of Cosmetic Products: Overview of Established Methods and New Approach Methodologies (NAMs). Cosmetics 2021, 8, 50. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8020050

AMA Style

Barthe M, Bavoux C, Finot F, Mouche I, Cuceu-Petrenci C, Forreryd A, Chérouvrier Hansson A, Johansson H, Lemkine GF, Thénot J-P, Osman-Ponchet H. Safety Testing of Cosmetic Products: Overview of Established Methods and New Approach Methodologies (NAMs). Cosmetics. 2021; 8(2):50. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8020050

Chicago/Turabian Style

Barthe, Manon, Clarisse Bavoux, Francis Finot, Isabelle Mouche, Corina Cuceu-Petrenci, Andy Forreryd, Anna Chérouvrier Hansson, Henrik Johansson, Gregory F. Lemkine, Jean-Paul Thénot, and Hanan Osman-Ponchet. 2021. "Safety Testing of Cosmetic Products: Overview of Established Methods and New Approach Methodologies (NAMs)" Cosmetics 8, no. 2: 50. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8020050

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