Officinal Plants as New Frontiers of Cosmetic Ingredients

Abstract

In recent years, cosmetic science has adopted a more integrative approach to skincare, in which sensory experience and psychophysical well-being are increasingly valued. In this context, plant-derived ingredients, particularly those from officinal species, are gaining attention for their multifunctional bioactivities. This review explores a curated selection of medicinal plants widely used or emerging in dermocosmetics, highlighting their phytochemical composition, mechanisms of action, and experimental support. A narrative literature review was conducted using databases such as PubMed and Scopus, targeting studies on topical cosmetic applications. Results show that many officinal plants, including Camellia sinensis, Panax ginseng, and Mentha piperita, offer antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, photoprotective, and anti-aging benefits. Less conventional species, such as Drosera ramentacea and Kigelia africana, demonstrated depigmenting and wound-healing potential. In particular, bioactive constituents like flavonoids, iridoids, saponins, and polyphenols act on key skin targets such as COX-2, MMPs, tyrosinase, and the Nrf2 pathway. These findings underscore the potential of botanical extracts to serve as effective, natural, and multifunctional agents in modern skincare. While only Mentha piperita is currently recognized as a traditional herbal medicinal product for dermatological use, this research supports the broader dermocosmetic integration of these species.

1. Introduction

Modern cosmetic science is evolving toward an integrated approach to skin care, in which products are not only expected to improve appearance but also to contribute to the psychological and physiological well-being of individuals. Cosmetics today are conceived as multisensory experiences involving tactile, visual, and olfactory dimensions, and their role has increased in dermatological treatments. Consumers demand products that are safe and functional, favoring natural ingredients over synthetic compounds.

In this context, plant-derived ingredients, especially those obtained from officinal plants, are gaining prominence in dermocosmetic innovation. Officinal plants represent a valuable reservoir of bioactive compounds with multifunctional activities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, photoprotective, and regenerative effects [1]. These properties make them ideal for addressing common dermatological concerns such as aging, hyperpigmentation, barrier dysfunction, acne, atopic dermatitis, and photo-induced damage, while also offering sensory benefits that enhance the overall cosmetic experience, even in the absence of specific skin conditions [2].

The cosmetic potential of officinal plants and their herbal extracts is supported by numerous studies that have shown that botanical extracts rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, terpenoids, and other phytochemicals exert protective effects against oxidative stress, modulate inflammatory signaling pathways, and inhibit enzymes involved in tissue degradation, such as collagenase and elastase [3,4]. In vitro and in vivo studies further highlight the ability of herbal extracts to stimulate fibroblast proliferation, enhance collagen synthesis, reduce melanin production, and accelerate wound healing [5,6,7].

This trend is reflected globally, with particular innovation observed in the Asian cosmeceutical market, where traditional medicinal herbs are widely incorporated into advanced formulations. Asian products frequently include Panax ginseng C.A Meyer, Camellia sinensis L.; and Centella asiatica (L.) Urb., ingredients supported by extensive pharmacological and clinical validation [8]. Similarly, the European tradition of herbal medicine provides a diverse selection of plants with dermatological applications, including Ruscus aculeatus L.; Vitis vinifera L.; and Calendula officinalis L.; often used for vascular disorders, photoprotection, and skin inflammation [9].

Cosmetic products are currently regulated in Europe under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, which establishes that such products must not claim therapeutic effects. The regulation also mandates that ingredients be listed on the product label in descending order of concentration, while allowing for the protection of industrial confidentiality where applicable. The Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 also provides that information on cosmetic products should include all the necessary particulars relating to identity, quality, safety for human health, and the effects claimed for the cosmetic product. Where justified by the nature or the effect of the cosmetic product, proof of the effect claimed for the cosmetic product should be provided. At the same time, the information provided must not confuse the consumer, who should be protected from misleading claims regarding, in particular, the efficacy. If a cosmetic has characteristics that appear to be those of a drug, Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products establishes that it cannot be considered a drug, and cosmetics may not claim or be intended to cure, treat, or prevent disease or to influence the functions of the body.

Given this backdrop, there is a growing need to systematize and validate the use of officinal plants in cosmetics, not only to support their integration into effective skincare products but also to ensure safety, stability, and adherence to regulatory standards.

This work aims to review and critically analyze selected officinal species with established or emerging dermocosmetic potential. By examining their phytochemical profiles, mechanisms of action, and experimental or clinical evidence (where present), this article seeks to provide a scientifically grounded rationale for the formulation of modern, natural, and functional skincare solutions.

2. Materials and Methods

This study was developed as a narrative literature review with the objective of evaluating the cosmetic relevance of a selection of medicinal plants that are most frequently present, currently used, or potentially suitable for use in various topical dermocosmetic products. The research aims to investigate the scientific foundations supporting the use of these botanical ingredients in topical skin care through a systematic collection and analysis of data from the international scientific literature.

The methodology consisted of a plant-by-plant review, carried out by consulting scientific articles and authoritative sources indexed in academic databases such as PubMed, Scopus, and ScienceDirect. The officinal plants were initially selected based on their presence as ingredients in topical formulations developed by Ripar Cosmetics. For each selected plant species, the literature search was conducted by combining the Latin botanical name with each of the following keywords separately: ‘skin’, ‘cosmetic’, and ‘topical use’. This resulted in three distinct search queries per species (e.g., Panax ginseng + skin; Panax ginseng + cosmetic; Panax ginseng + topical use), allowing for a comprehensive retrieval of relevant scientific publications. These terms were chosen to ensure the retrieval of studies strictly relevant to dermatological and cosmetic applications. The search period and the data analysis were carried out between January 2025 and April 2025.

Sources were included if they provided experimental or clinical data on the effects of the selected plant or its compounds on the skin. Publications were considered eligible regardless of the year of publication, as long as they presented verifiable results obtained through recognized scientific methods. Both in vitro and in vivo studies, as well as clinical trials and systematic reviews, were taken into account where available. Only publications written in English were considered eligible for inclusion in the review. It was necessary to prefer only the English language in our research because the naming of plants (where the Latin binomial is not used) becomes difficult to interpret. Vernacular names are sometimes difficult to trace back to specific species.

For each plant, scientific information was extracted regarding the part used (leaves, roots, seeds, etc.), the main classes of bioactive compounds identified (including flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpenes, alkaloids, saponins, and essential oils), and the biological mechanisms of action. The analysis focused particularly on properties of interest in cosmetics, including antioxidant activity, anti-inflammatory potential, stimulation of collagen or hyaluronic acid production, photoprotective effects, depigmenting activity, wound-healing capacity, and antimicrobial activity.

The results of the literature analysis were then organized thematically, in order to provide a comparative and functional overview of the cosmetic value of each species examined. The interpretation of the data was carried out with the aim of connecting traditional phytotherapeutic knowledge with experimental evidence, and of supporting the rational and safe use of plant-derived ingredients in innovative dermocosmetic formulations.

3. Results

A number of medicinal plants were identified among the ingredients of their botanical-based cosmetic lines. Among these, several species emerged as particularly relevant due to the functional positioning within the formulations and the scientific literature supporting their dermocosmetic activity. The most significant medicinal plants used in plant-based cosmetics are summarized in

Table 1. Medicinal plants used in cosmetics: plant part and studied activity.

Plant Species	Plant Part Used	Cosmetic Activities
Aesculus hippocastanum L.	Seeds	Anti-edematous, AO 1, AI 2, AA 3 [10,11,12,13,14,15,16]
Camellia sinensis L.	Leaves	AO, PP 4, AA, AM 5, DP 6 [5,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25,26,27,28,29,30,31,32]
Drosera ramentacea Burch. ex Harv. & Sond.	Whole plant	AM, DP, AA, AO [33,34,35,36,37,38,39,40]
Eucalyptus globulus Labill.	Leaves	AM, AI, AO, DP [41,42,43,44,45,46,47,48]
Glycine soja (L.) Merr.	Germ, oil	Hydration, ECM support, AO, DP, AI [4,49,50,51]
Harpagophytum procumbens DC.	Tubers	AI, AO, AM [52,53,54,55,56,57,58]
Kigelia africana (Lam.) Benth.	Fruits, barks	AA, skin firming, AI, WH 7 [59,60,61,62,63,64,65,66,67,68]
Lycium barbarum L.	Fruits	AO, anti-photoaging, barrier reinforcement, AI [69,70,71,72,73,74,75,76,77,78,79]
Mentha piperita L.	Leaves (essential oil, extract)	AM, AI, AO, soothing [80,81,82,83,84,85]
Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer	Roots	AA, moisturizing, AI, PP, skin-whitening [1,86,87,88,89,90,91,92,93,94,95,96,97,98,99]
Prunus dulcis (mill.) D.A.Webb	Seeds, skin	Emollient, moisturizing, barrier repair, AM, AO [100,101,102,103,104,105]
Ribes nigrum L.	Leaves	AO, AI, AM, WH, DP [5,106,107,108,109,110,111]
Ruscus aculeatus L.	Roots, rhizomes	Vasoprotective, AA, skin soothing, antimicrobial peptide modulation [9,112,113,114,115,116]
Solanum lycopersicum L.	Fruits, seeds	PP, AO, AI, microbiome balance [117,118,119,120,121,122,123,124]
Vitis vinifera L.	Leaves, seeds, skin	AO, AA, PP, AM, DP [125,126,127,128,129,130,131,132,133,134,135]
Zingiber officinale Roscoe	Rhizomes	AO, PP, regenerative, skin lightening [136,137,138,139,140,141,142,143,144,145,146,147]

¹ Antioxidant; ² Anti-inflammatory; ³ Anti-aging; ⁴ Photoprotective; ⁵ Antimicrobial; ⁶ Depigmenting; ⁷ Wound healing.

and discussed in detail below.

3.1. Aesculus hippocastanum L.

Aesculus hippocastanum L.; commonly referred to as horse chestnut, is a deciduous tree native to southeastern Europe and widely cultivated in temperate regions for ornamental and medicinal purposes [10]. Belonging to the Hippocastanaceae family, the plant is particularly valued for its seeds, which are rich in pharmacologically active constituents [11]. The most prominent among these is escin, a complex mixture of triterpenoid saponins, alongside flavonoids (notably glycosides of quercetin and kaempferol), tannins, coumarins, and phenolic acids [12]. Escin is primarily responsible for the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and venotonic effects attributed to horse chestnut seed extracts. These properties are increasingly exploited in cosmetic applications, particularly in formulations targeting microcirculatory disorders, skin inflammation, oxidative stress, and signs of aging [13]. Studies have demonstrated that A. hippocastanum seed extracts possess one of the highest oxygen radical absorbance capacities (ORAC) among 65 botanical species tested, surpassing even vitamin E, a result attributed to the synergistic activity of flavonoids and saponins [14]. These compounds play a protective role in stabilizing capillary walls, reducing edema, and preventing oxidative skin damage, supporting their inclusion in formulations for eye contour creams and anti-aging serums. In addition to these effects, escin also inhibits key matrix-degrading enzymes, including hyaluronidase, collagenase, and elastase, thereby preserving dermal integrity. By reducing the activity of hyaluronidase, escin helps maintain hyaluronic acid levels and, thus, skin hydration. Its inhibitory effects on collagenase and elastase support the preservation of collagen and elastic fibers, contributing to firmness and resistance to wrinkle formation [15]. Clinical evidence further substantiates these findings. A non-randomized trial involving 40 women showed that a 3% horse chestnut extract gel applied to the periocular area resulted in a significant reduction in wrinkle depth after nine weeks compared to untreated controls [12]. Moreover, industrial by-products from A. hippocastanum processing, rich in quercetin and kaempferol derivatives, demonstrated substantial antioxidant activity, offering a sustainable source of active compounds for dermocosmetic applications [16].

3.2. Camellia sinensis L.

Camellia sinensis L.; the botanical source of green, black, and oolong teas, is a perennial evergreen shrub of the Theaceae family [148]. Renowned for its medicinal and nutritional properties, C. sinensis has gained significant attention in cosmetic science due to its rich phytochemical profile, notably polyphenols (catechins, theaflavins), alkaloids (caffeine, theobromine), and flavonoids [17]. Among these, epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) is the most extensively studied for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, photoprotective, and anti-aging effects, positioning C. sinensis as a multifunctional ingredient for dermocosmetic formulations. Green tea polyphenols exhibit potent free radical scavenging activity and play a critical role in protecting skin from UV-induced oxidative stress, erythema, and DNA damage. Topical application of EGCG has been shown to reduce inflammatory markers such as IL-1 and COX-2, inhibit matrix metalloproteinases, and enhance endogenous antioxidant defenses, contributing to photoaging prevention [18,19,20]. Sunscreens containing 2–3% green tea extract demonstrated superior protection against photoimmunosuppression and preserved Langerhans cell density. Clinical evidence indicates that emulsions and hydrogels enriched with green tea significantly improve skin hydration, texture, and viscoelasticity, while reducing acne lesions, post-inflammatory erythema, and melanin deposition, effects largely mediated by EGCG’s antibacterial activity against Cutibacterium acnes [21,22,23,24]. In addition, C. sinensis extracts have exhibited skin-brightening effects by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and downregulating MITF expression, supporting their use in pigmentation control [5,25]. Advances in formulation technologies, such as incorporation into hydrogels, multiple emulsions, and chitosan microparticles, have enhanced the skin permeability and stability of catechins, overcoming challenges linked to their poor bioavailability [26,27,28]. In hair care, green tea catechins have demonstrated protective effects against UV-induced hair protein degradation and color fading [29,30], while EGCG has shown potential in managing androgenetic alopecia by promoting hair follicle proliferation and extending the anagen growth phase [31]. Furthermore, green and black tea extracts exhibited antifungal activity against dermatophytes such as Trichophyton rubrum and Microsporum canis, through disruption of fungal β-1,3-glucan and ergosterol structures [32], reinforcing their application in dermocosmetic products targeting fungal infections.

3.3. Drosera ramentacea Burch. ex Harv. & Sond.

Drosera ramentacea Burch. ex Harv. & Sond. is a carnivorous plant species belonging to the Droseraceae family, native to southern Africa [33]. Traditionally studied for its phytochemical richness, the species is particularly notable for its high content of secondary metabolites, especially naphthoquinones such as ramentaceone, ramentone, biramentaceone, and plumbagin [33,34]. These compounds confer important pharmacological activities, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and cytotoxic effects. Ramentone and ramentaceone were structurally characterized as derivatives of 1,4-naphthoquinone, while biramentaceone was identified as a dimeric structure of 7-methyljuglone, further enriching the chemical profile of D. ramentacea [33,34]. Extracts from Droseraceae species, including D. ramentacea, demonstrated notable antimicrobial activity, largely attributed to naphthoquinones like 7-methyljuglone [35,36]. Specifically, 7-methyljuglone exhibited exceptional antimicrobial potency, with MIC values ranging from 1 to 1.57 µg/mL against Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Mycobacterium spp. [35]. Investigations into the mechanism of ramentaceone’s antibacterial activity suggest that it inhibits nucleic acid synthesis rather than inducing oxidative stress, possibly through DNA intercalation or irreversible protein binding [36]. In addition to their well-documented antimicrobial properties, certain bioactive compounds isolated from D. ramentacea, particularly plumbagin, have demonstrated specific biological activities with direct relevance to cosmetic applications. Notably, plumbagin exhibited potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity at low micromolar concentrations (0.5–1 µM) without inducing cytotoxic effects, supporting its potential use in formulations aimed at reducing hyperpigmentation and evening skin tone [37,38]. Furthermore, its broad-spectrum antimicrobial efficacy, validated through an ex vivo porcine skin model, suggests utility in topical treatments targeting acne-related bacteria and fungal infections, both of which are common cosmetic and dermatological concerns [39]. In addition, plumbagin’s ability to inhibit NF-κB activation and suppress pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-1β, IL-6, TNF-α) reinforces its potential as an active component in soothing and anti-inflammatory skin care products, particularly those formulated for sensitive or inflamed skin [40].

3.4. Eucalyptus globulus Labill.

Eucalyptus globulus Labill., commonly known as Tasmanian blue gum, is a fast-growing evergreen tree of the Myrtaceae family, native to Australia and Tasmania, and widely cultivated in subtropical and temperate regions [41]. It is among the most economically important Eucalyptus species, characterized by its lanceolate leaves and bioactive essential oil extracted primarily from the foliage. The essential oil is rich in 1,8-cineole (eucalyptol), α-pinene, p-cymene, and cryptone, compounds responsible for its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and analgesic effects [41]. In the context of cosmetic dermatology, E. globulus essential oil has demonstrated strong antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Bacillus cereus, and Listeria ivanovii, including biofilm-producing strains, supporting its use in formulations for acne-prone and blemish-prone skin [42,43]. Its anti-inflammatory effects have been confirmed in murine models, where topical application reduced cytokine expression (TNF-α and IL-4), edema, and mast cell degranulation, highlighting its suitability for sensitive and reactive skin conditions [44,45]. In addition to antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activities, E. globulus extracts have shown antioxidant and anti-aging effects, including the reduction of β-galactosidase activity, inhibition of MMPs, stimulation of collagen I production, and suppression of tyrosinase-mediated melanin synthesis, making them promising candidates for anti-aging and skin-brightening formulations [40]. Moreover, the essential oil enhanced innate immune responses by promoting complement receptor-mediated phagocytosis and podosome formation, suggesting its application in skin barrier repair and immune-supporting products [47]. Comprehensive safety assessments have confirmed that E. globulus essential oil is non-cytotoxic and non-phototoxic according to OECD-compliant in vitro models, and is well tolerated in clinical settings. Its topical application has been associated with improved skin hydration, reduced transepidermal water loss, normalization of sebum levels, and reinforcement of the skin barrier, supporting its safe and effective inclusion in cosmetic formulations [48].

3.5. Glycine soja (L.) Merr.

Glycine soja (L.) Merr. belongs to the Fabaceae family (Leguminosae) and is a species native to East Asia and recognized for its broader genetic diversity and resilience to biotic and abiotic stresses [49]. It is particularly rich in bioactive phytochemicals such as isoflavones, saponins, tocopherols, and polyunsaturated fatty acids, making it a valuable source of compounds for nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic applications [49]. In the dermocosmetic field, Glycine soja has gained attention for its multifunctional profile, attributed to bioactives concentrated in the germ and oil fractions. These include isoflavones (genistein, daidzein, genistin), glycine saponins, phytosterols, and essential fatty acids, which contribute to antioxidant protection, skin hydration, extracellular matrix (ECM) support, and anti-inflammatory effects [4]. The oil, rich in linoleic and oleic acids, is commonly incorporated into moisturizers and barrier-restoring products, while the germ extract, with its high content of isoflavones and saponins, is particularly effective in anti-aging formulations. Other studies demonstrated that glycine saponin significantly stimulated hyaluronic acid synthesis in fibroblasts and reconstructed skin models, resulting in improved skin hydration and dermal density [4,50]. Genistein further contributed to ECM integrity by inhibiting elastase and promoting collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycan synthesis, key properties in anti-wrinkle and skin-firming treatments [4,50]. In addition, Glycine soja extracts have shown photoprotective and pigmentation-regulating effects, with isoflavones like genistein and genistin reducing UV-induced oxidative DNA damage, inhibiting melanogenesis, and suppressing tyrosinase activity [51]. The anti-inflammatory and antiproliferative properties of soybean derivatives further strengthen their suitability for sensitive and environmentally stressed skin. Notably, commercial interest in Glycine soja has increased substantially, with its extracts ranking among the top three botanicals used in anti-aging cosmetics between 2011 and 2018 [4].

3.6. Harpagophytum procumbens DC.

Harpagophytum procumbens DC.; commonly known as Devil’s Claw, is a perennial plant native to southern Africa, particularly Namibia and Botswana, belonging to the Pedaliaceae family [52]. The plant is characterized by tuberous roots that store water to survive arid environments. The name “Devil’s Claw” refers to the hooked appearance of its fruit, while the roots, especially the secondary tubers, constitute the main medicinal part of the plant. These roots are typically dried and used in traditional medicine for treating fever, pain, digestive issues, and inflammatory skin conditions [52]. The pharmacologically active compounds in Devil’s Claw are primarily iridoid glycosides, notably harpagoside, harpagide, and procumbide, with harpagoside often used as the principal marker compound. Extracts are commonly prepared through aqueous or hydroalcoholic maceration, and standardized dry extracts are used in both traditional remedies and cosmetic formulations [52]. Several experimental studies have highlighted the relevance of H. procumbens tuber extracts for cosmetic and dermatological applications. The pharmacological activity of the plant is primarily linked to its iridoid glycosides content, including harpagoside, harpagide, and 8-coumaroylharpagide [52,53]. Methanol and ethanol extracts from the tubers have demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory properties, mainly through the modulation of inflammatory pathways such as the arachidonic acid cascade and the inhibition of cyclooxygenase (COX) and lipoxygenase (LOX) enzymes [54,55]. Specifically, tuber extracts were found to suppress lipopolysaccharide-induced COX-2 and inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) expression in fibroblast cell lines, while a methanolic extract inhibited TPA-induced COX-2 expression in mouse skin via inhibition of NF-κB DNA-binding activity [53]. Importantly, studies comparing isolated harpagoside to the total extract revealed that the whole ethanolic extract was more effective in reducing inflammation, suggesting synergistic effects among the various phytochemicals present [55]. A study on an ethanol-soluble extract of H. procumbens tubers demonstrated significant reduction of COX-2 expression on porcine skin models, with harpagoside and 8-coumaroylharpagide showing stronger activity compared to verbascoside, while harpagide unexpectedly increased COX-2 expression after prolonged application [53]. Antioxidant assays confirmed that methanolic tuber extracts possess substantial radical scavenging activity, indicating their suitability for cosmetic use due to their effectiveness, ease of extraction, and cost-efficiency [56]. Antimicrobial studies further support the dermocosmetic potential of H. procumbens: Harpagophytum extracts inhibit the growth of several aerobic and anaerobic bacteria, as well as Candida krusei, microorganisms often implicated in dermatological conditions, while harpagoside alone was ineffective, again underscoring the importance of the complete extract [57]. A particularly significant finding demonstrated that an ethanolic tuber extract of H. procumbens exhibited potent anti-acne activity, with a MIC of 31.25 μg/mL against Cutibacterium acnes and 10 μg/mL against various Staphylococcus aureus strains, including MRSA, and Staphylococcus epidermidis, highlighting its broad-spectrum antibacterial capabilities against key skin pathogens [54,55]. Although some studies have explored the anti-psoriatic effects of H. procumbens, these effects appear to be more associated with specific isolated compounds, such as leucosceptoside A, rather than with the complete extract [58], suggesting that the standard tuber extract may have limited efficacy against psoriasis-like inflammation in keratinocyte models. The mechanisms of action of Devil’s Claw in cosmetic applications are summarized in Figure 1.

3.7. Kigelia africana (Lam.) Benth.

Kigelia africana (Lam.) Benth., commonly known as the “sausage tree” due to its large, sausage-shaped fruits (Figure 2), is a member of the Bignoniaceae family and the sole species in its genus [59]. Native to sub-Saharan Africa, the tree thrives in moist environments along riverbanks and savannahs. Traditionally, its fruits, bark, and leaves have been widely employed in African ethnomedicine for treating skin ailments, infections, and inflammation [59]. The plant is rich in bioactive phytochemicals, including iridoids (such as verminoside and specioside), flavonoids, sterols, coumarins, and naphthoquinones, which contribute to its broad pharmacological properties [59]. Several studies have emphasized the remarkable biological activities of Kigelia africana methanolic extracts, particularly those derived from its fruits and bark, highlighting their potential for use in cosmetic formulations due to their anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-aging, and wound-healing effects, combined with a favorable safety profile for topical application. Verminoside and polyphenols such as verbascoside have shown significant anti-inflammatory effects via the inhibition of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) expression and nitric oxide (NO) release in LPS-stimulated macrophages. Importantly, neither the crude extract nor the isolated compounds induced cytotoxicity or inflammatory responses in monolayer cultures and three-dimensional reconstructed human epidermis, confirming their potential safety for topical applications [60]. Other studies further reported that methanolic extracts from fruits and bark exhibited antimicrobial activity against key skin pathogens, including Microsporum canis, Trichophyton mentagrophytes, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Propionibacterium acnes, with MIC values ranging from 10 to 380 µg/mL, activities largely attributed to the presence of verminoside and phenolic compounds [61,62]. In the anti-aging field, fruit extracts of K. africana have shown an ability to strengthen collagen fibers, contributing to improved skin firmness and elasticity, with applications in the treatment of conditions such as solar keratosis and skin laxity around the eyes [63]. Moreover, methanolic extracts from the roots and bark significantly enhanced wound contraction in vivo within seven days, indicating accelerated skin repair [64]. In vitro studies on human keratinocyte (HaCaT) and fibroblast (BJ) cell lines confirmed that the methanolic fruit extract promotes cellular proliferation, migration, and viability, key processes involved in effective wound healing [65]. The anti-psoriatic potential of K. africana was also demonstrated in animal models, where methanolic extracts from stem, bark, leaves, and fruits led to significant reductions in epidermal thickness and the induction of orthokeratosis in the mouse tail test, without signs of significant irritation [66,68].

3.8. Lycium barbarum L.

Lycium barbarum L.; commonly known as goji berry or Chinese wolfberry, is a deciduous shrub native to Asia and widely cultivated in China. It belongs to the Solanaceae family and produces small orange-red berries traditionally used both as food and in traditional Chinese medicine. The berries are rich in bioactive components, including Lycium barbarum polysaccharides (LBPs), flavonoids, carotenoids (especially zeaxanthin), vitamins, and phenolic acids. Among these, LBPs are considered the most pharmacologically active constituents, known for their antioxidant, immunomodulatory, anti-aging, and neuroprotective effects [69]. A growing body of experimental evidence supports the cosmetic potential of L. barbarum, especially through the use of polysaccharide-enriched extracts obtained from the fruits. Comparative analyses of different LBP extraction methods have shown that both hot water and yeast fermentation techniques yield extracts with strong radical scavenging activity against DPPH, hydroxyl, and superoxide radicals, with fermented extracts offering superior antioxidant efficacy and improved dermal penetration, enhancing their suitability for topical application [70]. Similarly, a study conducted on polysaccharides extracted from L. barbarum seeds husks, using various solvent systems, demonstrated that concentrated alkaline and chelating agent extracts displayed notable antioxidant capacities and advantageous formulation properties, such as the high solubility and emulsifying potential, making them promising for skincare formulations [71]. Additional studies have confirmed that LBP could significantly protect human skin fibroblasts from UV-induced oxidative stress by activating the Nrf2 signaling pathway, leading to upregulation of antioxidant enzymes such as SOD and GSH-Px, and reducing reactive oxygen species (ROS) and lipid peroxidation [72]. LBPs have also been shown to preserve keratinocyte viability, limit DNA damage, and suppress oxidative stress through modulation of Nrf2 and inhibition of p38 MAPK, thereby supporting their anti-photoaging role [73]. Further evidence indicates that activation of SIRT3 and SOD2 by LBP reduces mitochondrial oxidative stress and mitigates cellular senescence induced by UVB, reinforcing its value in anti-aging formulations [74]. An in vivo model showed that topical application of a Lycium barbarum polysaccharide fraction, alone or combined with photobiomodulation, preserved dermal collagen integrity and prevented UV-induced epidermal thickening, further supporting its application in photoaging prevention [75].

Beyond anti-aging applications, Lycium barbarum extracts (LBE) have shown promise in managing inflammatory skin conditions. Oral administration of LBE in a DNCB-induced atopic dermatitis model reduced epidermal thickening, serum IgE levels, and inflammatory mediator expression through the downregulation of MAPK, STAT1, and NF-κB pathways [76]. Similarly, L. barbarum leaf extract significantly alleviated atopic dermatitis symptoms in vivo and suppressed chemokine expression in vitro without cytotoxic effects [77]. Additionally, topical formulations rich in phenolic compounds have improved skin barrier function by enhancing the expression of structural proteins such as filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin, while stimulating antioxidant responses via Nrf2/HO-1 regulation in UV-damaged skin [78]. Finally, emerging data also suggest that LBPs may promote melanocyte proliferation and survival under oxidative stress by activating the Nrf2/p62-mediated autophagy pathway, supporting its future application in dermocosmetic formulations aimed at preventing or treating vitiligo [79].

3.9. Mentha piperita L.

Mentha piperita L.; commonly known as peppermint, is a perennial aromatic herb of the Lamiaceae family, extensively cultivated across temperate regions for culinary, medicinal, and industrial purposes [80]. In cosmetics, peppermint is predominantly used in the form of essential oil and plant extracts, valued both for their sensory properties and bioactive functionality. The rhizomes and aerial parts of the plant are rich in key phytochemicals such as menthol, menthone, eucalyptol, linalool, flavonoids, and phenolic acids, which impart a broad spectrum of biological activities including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and analgesic effects [80,81]. Recent studies have expanded peppermint’s application beyond traditional fragrance roles, supporting its relevance in skincare and dermatological therapies. Its essential oil exhibits strong anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties, with particular efficacy in the management of burns, psoriasis, and inflammatory skin conditions, largely attributed to its immunomodulatory effects [80]. Complementarily chemical and biological evaluations have confirmed that peppermint essential oil exhibits high free radical scavenging activity (up to 92.6%), potent anti-inflammatory effects, and broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity, notably against Staphylococcus aureus, Candida albicans, and bacterial biofilms, suggesting its utility in formulations targeting acne-prone and irritated skin [81]. These effects are mediated by major constituents such as menthol, menthone, and eucalyptol, which contribute to microbial membrane disruption and cytokine inhibition. A safety assessment conducted by the Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety affirmed that peppermint oil, leaf extract, and related derivatives are safe for cosmetic use at current concentrations, although additional data were recommended for lesser-studied components like flower/leaf/stem water and meristem cell cultures [82]. The favorable safety profile of standard peppermint preparations supports their incorporation into topical applications. Broader phytochemical investigations have identified bioactives such as caffeic acid, rosmarinic acid, luteolin derivatives, and hesperidin in peppermint, which reinforce its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant capacities. In vitro and in vivo studies confirmed peppermint extract’s ability to downregulate pro-inflammatory cytokines like TNF-α and IL-6, positioning them as suitable multifunctional ingredients in cosmeceuticals targeting oxidative stress, skin barrier repair, and mild infections [83]. Topical application of 3% peppermint oil significantly promoted hair growth in mice by inducing early entry into the anagen phase. The mechanism involves increased dermal thickness, follicle number, and alkaline phosphatase activity, alongside upregulation of IGF-1 expression, key to follicle development and survival. These effects are attributed to menthol, which enhances skin penetration and microcirculation, making peppermint oil a promising natural alternative for scalp revitalization and anti-alopecia treatments [84]. Nowadays, peppermint oil is recognized by the European Medicines Agency as a herbal medicinal product with well-established use for the symptomatic treatment of gastrointestinal discomfort and mild tension headaches, and as a traditional herbal medicinal product for relieving cough, cold symptoms, localized muscle pain, and importantly, for alleviating localized pruritus on intact skin. This traditional classification highlights a long-standing and specific therapeutic application, reinforcing the value of Mentha piperita in dermatological and cosmetic formulations aimed at soothing irritated or itchy skin [85].

3.10. Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer

Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer, known as Asian or Korean ginseng, is a perennial herbaceous plant native to East Asia, widely used in traditional medicine for its revitalizing properties [86]. Botanically classified within the Araliaceae family, its root has long been considered a tonic with systemic health effects. The primary bioactive constituents, ginsenosides (triterpene saponins), are predominantly concentrated in the root and exhibit a wide spectrum of pharmacological activities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and neuroprotective effects [86]. These compounds, alongside polysaccharides and peptides, form the basis of ginseng’s functional application in both medicinal and dermocosmetic contexts [86]. In addition, P. ginseng has been a cornerstone of traditional medicine for over 2000 years in Asian countries such as Korea, China, and Japan, and is now recognized for its therapeutic and cosmetic potential due to its complex phytochemical composition [3]. Recent studies have specifically highlighted ethanol extracts of P. ginseng roots for their potent anti-aging, photoprotective, moisturizing, and skin-regenerating properties. Enzyme-modified ethanol extracts enriched with ginsenosides such as F2 and Rg1 demonstrated significant protection against UVB-induced skin aging, reducing photodamage scores and improving skin texture in clinical and in vitro studies [87,88]. The ginsenoside compound K (Figure 3), derived from ethanol extracts, effectively decreased MMP-1 and COX-2 expression while restoring type I collagen synthesis in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts, supporting its anti-photoaging and moisturizing effects via upregulation of filaggrin and hyaluronic acid synthases [89,90].

Additionally, red ginseng ethanol extracts exhibited strong antimicrobial activity against Propionibacterium acnes, attributed to the bioactive constituents panaxynol and panaxydol, and demonstrated clinical efficacy in improving acne-prone skin [91]. Anti-inflammatory effects were also observed, with ethanol extracts from Korean red ginseng reducing allergic skin lesions, IgE levels, and inflammatory cytokines via MAPK/NF-κB pathway modulation [92]. Regarding skin whitening, various studies have shown that ethanol extracts and isolated ginsenosides such as Rf, F1, C-Y, and vanillic acid inhibit melanogenesis by modulating tyrosinase activity and associated signaling pathways, including CREB/MITF and NO/PKG, both in vitro and in zebrafish models [93,94,95,96,97].

Notably, the ethanolic fraction of white ginseng (F10), obtained from sun-dried Panax ginseng through methanol extraction followed by polarity-based fractionation and ethanol precipitation, displayed potent anti-UV and anti-melanogenesis activities [98]. Furthermore, ethanol extracts and ginsenoside Rf from ginseng roots demonstrated remarkable antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, reducing ROS levels, suppressing MMP-1 expression, promoting procollagen synthesis, and enhancing skin barrier proteins in keratinocyte models [99]. The mechanisms of action of Panax ginseng in cosmetic applications are summarized in Figure 4.

3.11. Prunus amygdalus varietas dulcis (Mill) D.A.Webb

Prunus amygdalus ver. dulcis (Mill) D.A.Webb (syn. Prunus dulcis), commonly known as sweet almond, is a deciduous tree belonging to the Rosaceae family. Native to the arid regions of southwest Asia, it is now predominantly cultivated in Mediterranean climates, especially in California, Spain, and Australia. Botanically, the almond fruit is a drupe; however, it is the seed (kernel) that is primarily valued for human use [100]. The kernel is enclosed within a hard endocarp (the shell), and both the hull and shell represent significant coproducts of almond processing. Almonds are rich in monounsaturated fats, vitamin E, phenolic compounds, and phytosterols, contributing to their broad nutritional and functional potential [100]. The cosmetic and dermatological benefits of Prunus amygdalus var. dulcis, particularly in the form of sweet almond oil (SAO), are well-documented. SAO, rich in oleic and linoleic acids along with phytosterols such as β-sitosterol, significantly improves skin hydration, elasticity, and barrier integrity, effectively reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and promoting stratum corneum recovery [101]. Clinically, SAO demonstrated comparable moisturizing effectiveness to white petrolatum in treating xerotic skin and proved beneficial for managing atopic dermatitis, pruritus, and striae gravidarum, while its high α-tocopherol content (>90%) contributes to its antioxidant and photoprotective effects [94]. SAO, owing to its rich vitamin E and K content, also enhances skin regeneration and elasticity and exhibits antigenotoxic properties, supporting protection against oxidative DNA damage, a key factor in skin aging processes [102]. Beyond the oil, polyphenol-rich extracts from almond skin have demonstrated significant antimicrobial and antiviral activities. A natural almond skin polyphenol mix exerted bacteriostatic effects against Staphylococcus aureus, including MRSA strains, and potent antiviral activity against HSV-1, reducing viral replication by over 90% at non-cytotoxic concentrations [103]. These effects are attributed mainly to flavonoids such as catechin and epicatechin, suggesting their potential inclusion in cosmetic products aimed at infection-prone or compromised skin. Further, a study demonstrated that almond skin extract from the “Fascionello” cultivar (a traditional Sicilian variety cultivated mainly in the provinces of Syracuse and Ragusa, known for its distinctive polyphenolic profile influenced by local soil and climatic conditions) significantly reduced ROS production, inhibited inflammatory mediators such as TNF-α, IL-1β, iNOS, and COX-2, and activated the Nrf2/HO-1 pathway while suppressing NF-κB-mediated inflammation, highlighting its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory efficacy both in vitro and in vivo [104]. Additionally, the oral consumption of almonds has been clinically shown to enhance systemic photoprotection. A randomized controlled trial reported that daily almond intake significantly increased the minimal erythema dose in healthy Asian women, indicating improved resistance to UVB-induced skin damage, likely mediated by the synergistic antioxidant effects of almond polyphenols, vitamin E, and unsaturated fatty acids [105].

3.12. Ribes nigrum L.

Ribes nigrum L.; commonly known as blackcurrant, is a deciduous shrub native to Europe and Asia, cultivated for its edible berries. It belongs to the Grossulariaceae family and is widely recognized for its fruits, which are rich in anthocyanins and vitamin C [106]. The leaves of Ribes nigrum, traditionally used for their anti-rheumatic and diuretic effects, are now of interest in dermocosmetic research due to their richness in polyphenols, particularly flavonoids, phenolic acids, and proanthocyanidins. Methanolic and aqueous leaf extracts have shown promising biological activities relevant to cosmetic use [106]. Water-glycerine extracts from blackcurrant leaves have shown high free radical scavenging activity, attributable to their rich flavonoid and phenolic acid composition [107]. The antioxidant capacity of the leaves has been confirmed to be greater than that of the fruits, with a notably higher content of quercetin derivatives [108]. Methanolic leaf extracts have demonstrated the ability to modulate inflammatory responses in keratinocytes by selectively inhibiting IFN-γ-mediated signaling, without affecting TNF-α or IL-4 responses, suggesting selective application in Th1-associated inflammatory skin diseases [109]. Their therapeutic relevance in wound healing has also been supported, with methanolic extracts significantly enhancing wound breaking strength and reducing wound area, while exhibiting strong antioxidant activity in vivo [110]. Furthermore, R. nigrum leaf extracts have demonstrated antibacterial and tyrosinase inhibitory activities, key features for cosmetic formulations aimed at skin protection and whitening. These extracts demonstrated potent antibacterial effects against both Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria by disrupting bacterial membranes [111]. In addition, R. nigrum leaf extract was among the most effective tyrosinase inhibitors in a comparative screening of herbal products, underscoring its potential in managing hyperpigmentation and developing skin-brightening products [5].

3.13. Ruscus aculeatus L.

Ruscus aculeatus L.; commonly known as butcher’s broom, is a perennial evergreen semi-shrub belonging to the family Ruscaceae, though now often classified within the Asparagaceae [112]. It is native to the Mediterranean region and southeastern Europe, typically growing in dry, shaded woodland environments and displaying exceptional tolerance to drought and low light conditions [112]. The plant is particularly rich in steroidal saponins, primarily ruscogenin and neoruscogenin, concentrated in the rhizomes and roots, which exhibit potent anti-inflammatory, venotonic, and vasoprotective properties [113]. In addition to steroidal sapogenins, R. aculeatus contains benzofuranes, flavonoids, triterpenes, sterols, and coumarins, contributing to its broad pharmacological profile [114]. Clinical studies have demonstrated that butcher’s broom extracts significantly reduce capillary filtration rates and venous diameter, while improving blood flow and alleviating symptoms of chronic venous insufficiency, with strong evidence of efficacy confirmed in randomized controlled trials [9,114]. The venotonic and anti-inflammatory effects are further supported by mechanistic studies, where R. aculeatus extracts displayed partial agonist activity at muscarinic M1 and M3 receptors, leading to reduced vascular permeability and inhibition of leukocyte/endothelium interactions in ischemia/reperfusion models [115]. Recent cosmetic research has highlighted the dermocosmetic potential of Ruscus aculeatus, especially for applications aimed at reducing visible blood vessels, skin redness, and edema. The extract strengthens vascular walls by inhibiting elastase and modulating microvascular permeability, thereby improving drainage and alleviating swelling. Furthermore, R. aculeatus extract was demonstrated to promote the expression of the antimicrobial peptide RNase 7 in primary human keratinocytes via ERK pathway activation, linked to the inhibition of late-phase autophagy, suggesting a novel mechanism by which it enhances skin innate defense systems [116].

3.14. Solanum lycopersicum L.

Solanum lycopersicum L.; commonly known as tomato, belongs to the Solanaceae family and is one of the most widely cultivated crops worldwide (118). Native to western South and Central America, tomato is classified botanically as a fruit (berry), though it is often consumed as a vegetable. The plant is herbaceous, diploid, and predominantly self-pollinating, with a growth habit that ranges from determinate to indeterminate [117]. Tomatoes are rich in essential nutrients, including vitamins A, C, and E, potassium, and dietary fiber, and they are particularly valued for their high content of lycopene, a powerful antioxidant carotenoid that imparts the characteristic red color to the fruit [117]. Recent studies have highlighted the strong cosmetic potential of tomato-derived extracts, particularly due to the activity of lycopene. A systematic review and meta-analysis of 21 intervention studies confirmed that lycopene supplementation significantly reduces biomarkers of photoaging, including skin redness, MMP-1, ICAM-1, and pigmentation, while enhancing minimal erythema dose, skin thickness, and dermal density, thus confirming its photoprotective efficacy [118]. Lycopene extracted from salad tomato varieties demonstrated the highest antioxidant capacity, supporting its application in topical formulations aimed at oxidative stress prevention and anti-aging [119]. Additionally, hybrid tomato powders produced at low drying temperatures retained high levels of polyphenols and antioxidants, suggesting sustainable applications in dermocosmetics for oxidative protection and skin vitality [120]. Golden tomato extract was shown to modulate gene expression related to innate immunity, DNA repair, and detoxification in dermal fibroblasts, while clinical supplementation significantly reduced transepidermal water loss and improved skin barrier function and appearance [121]. Moreover, synergistic combinations of Solanum lycopersicum and Rosmarinus officinalis extracts provided enhanced photoprotection by suppressing NF-κB activation, reducing IL-6 secretion, and activating the ARE/Nrf2 antioxidant pathway in keratinocytes and fibroblasts [122]. Valorization of tomato pomace oil, a by-product of processing, revealed its richness in linoleic acid and antioxidants, with demonstrated benefits in modulating the skin microbiome, reducing inflammation and melanin content, and protecting against environmental pollutants when incorporated into topical formulations [123]. Beyond antioxidant and photoprotective effects, lycoperosides from tomato seeds exhibited notable anti-inflammatory and barrier-restorative activity in an atopic dermatitis model, reducing TEWL, cytokine imbalances, and serum IgE levels, thereby supporting their potential in cosmetics targeting sensitive and reactive skin [124].

3.15. Vitis vinifera L.

Vitis vinifera L.; commonly known as grapevine, is a species of the Vitaceae family, native to western Asia and southern Europe, historically important for fruit and wine production and increasingly valued for its therapeutic and cosmetic applications [125]. Its morphological parts (leaves, seeds, skins, and stems) contain a wide range of bioactive phytocompounds, notably polyphenols, flavonoids, tannins, anthocyanins, and stilbenes such as resveratrol and pterostilbene [125]. In cosmetics, V. vinifera extracts have demonstrated strong antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective, antimicrobial, and anti-aging activities. Leaf extracts (VVLE) are particularly rich in resveratrol, pterostilbene, quercetin, and epicatechin, conferring potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects through the inhibition of TNF-α and IL-8 expression and suppression of NF-κB activation in keratinocytes [126,127]. VVLE also exerts photoprotective properties by activating antioxidant and repair pathways such as Nrf2, HO-1, SIRT1, and HSP47, mitigating UV-induced DNA damage and reducing the expression of pro-inflammatory markers [128,129,130]. In addition, V. vinifera extracts have demonstrated broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, Cutibacterium acnes, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, largely attributed to pterostilbene’s antibacterial and antibiofilm efficacy [131]. Antifungal properties have also been reported, with resveratrol and pterostilbene disrupting ergosterol biosynthesis and inhibiting biofilm formation in fungal pathogens such as Candida albicans and Trichophyton species [132]. Moreover, red vine leaf extracts exhibit tyrosinase inhibitory activity, supporting applications in depigmenting and brightening cosmetics [133]. Seed and skin extracts, rich in proanthocyanidins and catechins, protect extracellular matrix integrity by inhibiting collagenase and elastase, contributing to anti-wrinkle and skin-firming effects [134,135]. The use of V. vinifera derivatives in cosmetics is widely recognized, with approvals from the CosIng (Cosmetic Ingredients) database and the FDA (Food and Drug Administration), and they are commonly employed as antioxidants, emollients, and skin conditioners at concentrations up to 3%. Furthermore, biotechnological advances, such as grape stem cell cultures, offer standardized and sustainable sources of potent bioactives for next-generation skincare products [135].

3.16. Zingiber officinale Rosco

Zingiber officinale Roscoe, commonly known as ginger, is a perennial herb belonging to the Zingiberaceae family. It is cultivated primarily for its aromatic rhizome, which is used both as a culinary spice and a medicinal remedy [136]. Ginger’s pharmacological properties stem from its complex phytochemical composition, including gingerols, shogaols, paradols, and various terpenes. These bioactives contribute to its traditional and modern applications across numerous therapeutic areas, including inflammatory, digestive, and metabolic disorders [136]. The rhizome is particularly rich in [6]-gingerol, shogaols, zingerone, and volatile oils, along with essential micronutrients like vitamins E and C, β-carotene, selenium, zinc, and manganese, enhancing its dermocosmetic potential [137]. In cosmetic science, ginger extract has attracted considerable interest for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective, and skin-regenerative properties. A study carried out on 10-shogaol demonstrated that it significantly enhanced the proliferation and migration of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, upregulating key growth factors such as TGF-β, PDGF-αβ, and VEGF, and accelerating wound closure in vitro [138]. [6]-Gingerol exhibited potent anti-inflammatory and anti-photoaging effects by suppressing UVB-induced COX-2 expression and NF-κB activation through the inhibition of p38 MAPK signaling, reducing ROS production and apoptosis in keratinocytes [139,140]. Furthermore, gingerol inhibited melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells by reducing tyrosinase activity and oxidative stress, suggesting its applicability in skin-lightening formulations [141]. Zerumbone, another sesquiterpene from ginger, was shown to attenuate melanogenesis by downregulating MITF and tyrosinase gene expression via ERK pathway activation [142]. Ginger extract also demonstrated significant photoprotective activity, mitigating UVB-induced skin inflammation and oxidative stress, promoting thioredoxin 1 expression, and preventing DNA damage and caspase-mediated apoptosis in keratinocytes [143,144,145]. Additionally, ginger extract reduced UVB-induced elastase activity, preserving dermal elasticity and preventing wrinkle formation in both animal and clinical studies [146]. Finally, ginger-loaded electrospun nanofibers demonstrated significant wound-healing activity by promoting re-epithelialization, collagen deposition, and antimicrobial protection against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli [147].

4. Discussion

The present review critically highlights how numerous medicinal plants, often traditionally valued for food, therapeutic, or ornamental purposes, are now emerging as scientifically validated sources of bioactive compounds suitable for dermocosmetic applications. Notably, plants not initially intended for topical use have demonstrated significant skin-related activities, revealing untapped potential in the cosmetic domain. Importantly, in cases where multiple extraction methods or formulations were reported in the literature, preference in this review was given to those more consistent with topical cosmetic use. This approach ensured the selection of data most relevant to real-world dermocosmetic applications and allowed for a more accurate assessment of the potential translational value of each plant extract within the framework of modern formulation strategies.

Among the plants examined, several species exhibit distinctive profiles of cosmetic utility based on their predominant bioactivities. Aesculus hippocastanum stands out for its vasoprotective, antioxidant, and anti-edematous properties, supporting its application in periocular treatments and formulations targeting vascular fragility. Camellia sinensis, already well integrated into cosmetic science, remains highly exploited for its potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective, and skin-brightening effects, largely attributed to catechins such as EGCG. Drosera ramentacea, though less conventional in dermocosmetics, demonstrated promising antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and depigmenting activities, particularly relevant for acne-prone and uneven skin. Eucalyptus globulus is primarily leveraged for its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory potential, along with antioxidant and sebum-regulating properties that make it well-suited to sensitive or blemish-prone skin. Glycine soja revealed strong moisturizing and extracellular matrix-supporting effects, including hyaluronic acid stimulation, positioning it as a key ingredient in anti-aging and barrier-repair formulations. Harpagophytum procumbens, traditionally employed for musculoskeletal disorders, displayed notable anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties relevant to inflammatory skin conditions and acne management. Kigelia africana, widely known in ethnomedicine, showed multifunctional potential, including wound healing, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-aging effects, suggesting its integration into formulations for skin regeneration and photoaged skin. Lycium barbarum, commonly marketed as a superfood, proved particularly effective for its photoprotective, antioxidant, and skin barrier-enhancing properties, especially via polysaccharide-enriched extracts. Mentha piperita, although best known for its digestive and sensory effects, has demonstrated compelling topical antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, justifying its role in products designed for irritated, acne-prone, or oxidative-stressed skin. Panax ginseng emerged as one of the most extensively validated species, combining antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and depigmentation effects through a wide array of ginsenosides and related phytochemicals. Prunus amygdalus dulcis, particularly in the form of almond oil and skin extracts, showed strong moisturizing, photoprotective, and antioxidant benefits, with additional antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity relevant to barrier support and sensitive skin care. Ribes nigrum demonstrated robust antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, particularly through leaf-derived methanolic and aqueous extracts, supporting its use in formulations aimed at combating photoaging, hyperpigmentation, and inflamed skin. Ruscus aculeatus, traditionally used for vascular disorders, revealed additional cosmetic value in modulating skin microcirculation, soothing erythema, and enhancing the skin’s innate immune response. Solanum lycopersicum, primarily valued for its nutritional content, exhibited significant photoprotective, antioxidant, and skin tone-modulating properties due to its high lycopene and polyphenol content. V. vinifera, among the most versatile species analyzed, offered a broad spectrum of activities (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, depigmenting, and photoprotective) derived from its diverse morphological parts, with substantial support for anti-aging applications. Z. officinale, widely recognized for systemic health benefits, showed strong anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-brightening activity, especially in UV-related damage contexts.

From a careful analysis of specific properties, they can be summarized in the following paragraphs.

4.1. Anti-Inflammatory Activity

Anti-inflammatory activity emerged as one of the most consistently supported properties across the investigated species. Particularly compelling evidence was found for H. procumbens, traditionally used for musculoskeletal pain, which exhibited potent topical anti-inflammatory effects through COX-2 and iNOS inhibition and demonstrated antimicrobial properties against key acne-related pathogens. Similarly, Z. officinale, more commonly recognized for its digestive and systemic effects, showed substantial anti-inflammatory, anti-photoaging, and regenerative activity, validating its use in soothing formulations and wound-healing products. K. africana, often associated with traditional skin applications, confirmed its anti-inflammatory and wound-healing capacity, but also showed promise in anti-aging and anti-psoriatic contexts, suggesting a broader relevance than previously considered.

4.2. Antioxidant and Photoprotective Activities

Antioxidant and photoprotective effects were strongly represented among plants typically consumed as food. S. lycopersicum, best known as tomato, showed robust photoaging prevention linked to lycopene and polyphenols, with added benefits on the skin microbiome and pigmentation regulation. Similarly, Glycine soja, widely used in nutrition, demonstrated notable skin-rejuvenating properties via hyaluronic acid stimulation and ECM remodeling, largely attributed to isoflavones and saponins. These results highlight how dietary plants may offer dual dermo-nutritional and cosmetic functions when properly extracted and formulated.

4.3. Antimicrobial Effect

The antimicrobial potential of several species also deserves mention. Mentha piperita, traditionally appreciated for its balsamic and sensory properties, also demonstrated relevant dermocosmetic potential beyond fragrance or refreshment. Its essential oil exhibited strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity, alongside notable antimicrobial effects against S. aureus and C. albicans. In vitro and in vivo studies further confirmed its ability to reduce pro-inflammatory cytokine expression and oxidative markers, suggesting its suitability for formulations targeting irritated, acne-prone, or environmentally stressed skin, applications that remain underexploited despite its well-documented safety and widespread availability. Eucalyptus globulus, widely cultivated for wood and essential oil production, exhibited remarkable antibacterial activity, including against biofilm-forming strains, along with photoprotective and antioxidant effects. These findings suggest its broader integration in cosmetics beyond traditional cleansing and perfuming roles.

4.4. Venotonic Effect

Plants commonly known for vascular or systemic effects demonstrated dermocosmetic potential when recontextualized. Aesculus hippocastanum, long used for chronic venous insufficiency, displayed strong antioxidant and anti-edematous effects, with clinical evidence supporting wrinkle reduction and skin tone improvement. Similarly, Ruscus aculeatus, traditionally used for its venotonic activity, proved relevant in cosmetics by modulating vascular permeability, stimulating innate immunity via antimicrobial peptides, and improving redness and swelling, particularly beneficial for rosacea-prone or sensitive skin.

4.5. Skin-Brightening Activity

Several species demonstrated compelling depigmentation and skin-brightening effects. Camellia sinensis, already well-established in dermocosmetic science, further confirmed its utility via EGCG-driven tyrosinase inhibition and photoaging protection. Vitis vinifera, traditionally associated with wine production, emerged as one of the most versatile ingredients, with multiple morphological parts providing broad-spectrum antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective, and depigmenting benefits. Notably, red vine leaf extract showed competitive tyrosinase inhibition comparable to standard agents, supporting its application in pigmentation control.

4.6. Regenerative Property

Wound-healing properties and regenerative activity were especially evident in D. ramentacea and K. africana, both of which enhanced fibroblast proliferation and migration. In the case of Drosera, often explored for its carnivorous physiology, bioactive naphthoquinones such as plumbagin and ramentaceone showed antimicrobial and depigmenting properties without cytotoxicity, confirming their cosmetic applicability in products targeting acne, inflammation, and uneven skin tone.

4.7. Photoprotective Effect

The photoprotective profile of L. barbarum, often marketed as a superfood, was particularly notable. Its polysaccharide-enriched extracts enhanced antioxidant responses, reduced UV-induced skin damage, and supported barrier function through Nrf2 and SIRT3 activation, positioning it as a strong candidate for anti-photoaging formulations. This reinforces the concept that some of the most powerful skin actives may lie in underutilized fractions of food plants, such as seed residues or fermentation products.

4.8. Other

An additional consideration of regulatory significance is that, among the numerous botanical species reviewed, only one, M. piperita, currently holds official recognition for dermatological use under European regulatory frameworks. Specifically, peppermint is classified by the EMA as a well-established herbal medicinal product for indications including functional gastrointestinal disorders, mild tension, and headache. Moreover, it is acknowledged as a traditional herbal medicinal product for conditions such as common cold, muscular pain, and, importantly, for the relief of localized pruritus on intact skin. This status distinguishes M. piperita from the other species examined, which, despite exhibiting promising bioactivities, have not yet reached comparable levels of regulatory validation for dermatological application.

However, a relevant technical challenge that remains to be addressed is the precise identification of the most suitable plant part for cosmetic use, as well as the optimization of corresponding extraction methods that yield coherent, stable, and reproducible phytochemical profiles. Improving this level of specificity would not only enhance the scientific validity and safety of cosmetic formulations but also support the broader inclusion of these plant species across a wider range of dermocosmetic and personal care products.

4.9. General Concluding Considerations

Taken together, this evidence highlights how officinal plants, some of which are still rarely used in cosmetics, offer a broad and scientifically substantiated range of functionalities relevant to modern dermocosmetic needs. Their diverse phytochemical profiles provide antioxidant protection, inflammation control, barrier support, pigmentation modulation, and antimicrobial defense, properties increasingly demanded in personalized and multifunctional skincare. Future research should aim to validate these findings in clinical settings and refine extract standardization and formulation strategies, ensuring reproducibility, safety, and “efficacy” in real-world cosmetic use.

Finally, it is worth emphasizing that, based on reproducible scientific evidence, many of the currently cosmetic-oriented applications of these plant extracts could evolve into therapeutically relevant strategies for managing dermatological conditions. This convergence of cosmetic and medical benefits underscores the potential of plant-derived ingredients not only to enhance aesthetic outcomes but also to contribute meaningfully to skin health, bridging the gap between beauty and clinical care.

4.10. Limitations of the Study

While the reviewed botanical extracts demonstrate promising biological activities with potential dermocosmetic relevance, several limitations must be acknowledged. Many studies are based primarily on in vitro models or preliminary in vivo animal experiments, which may not fully capture the complexity of human skin physiology. Additionally, some investigations rely on isolated compounds or crude extracts without standardized concentrations, making it difficult to extrapolate results to real-world formulations. The sample sizes in available clinical studies are often small, and data on long-term effects in humans are still limited. Moreover, inter-study variability in extraction methods, experimental models, and outcome measures reduces comparability and reproducibility. Therefore, although the mechanistic insights provided by current research are valuable, there remains a critical need for well-designed, large-scale clinical trials to validate the optimal use of these botanical ingredients in cosmetic applications. Future research should also focus on the standardization of extracts, formulation optimization, and elucidation of synergistic effects between phytochemicals.

5. Conclusions

The data reviewed in this study confirm that medicinal plants represent a valuable source of multifunctional bioactive compounds for cosmetic and dermatological applications. The species analyzed, through their diverse phytochemical profiles and experimentally validated biological activities, demonstrate significant potential in addressing oxidative stress, inflammation, microbial infections, pigmentation disorders, and skin barrier dysfunctions. Their incorporation into cosmetic formulations offers a scientifically supported strategy to develop effective, natural, and safe products targeting a wide range of skin and scalp conditions. Advances in extraction techniques and formulation technologies have contributed to improving the chemical stability, skin penetration, and overall functional performance of plant-derived ingredients, further enhancing their applicability.

Future research should focus on the standardization of extracts, the identification of optimal concentrations for efficacy, and the development of formulation strategies aimed at maximizing the stability, bioactivity, and targeted delivery of these botanical compounds within the skin.