Search Results (7,483)

The incorporation of plant-derived oils into cosmetic formulations has attracted increasing interest due to their natural origin, skin compatibility, and multifunctional formulation roles. Argan and castor oils are widely used in cosmetic products as emollient lipid components with intrinsic antioxidant properties. However, limited studies have systematically evaluated the physicochemical stability and antioxidant performance of emulsions combining these two oils. The aim of this study was to develop and comprehensively characterize a stable oil-in-water (O/W) cosmetic emulsion based on argan and castor oils using a natural non-ionic emulsifier (C14–22 Alcohol (and) C12–20 Alkyl Glucoside). Particular emphasis was placed on formulation stability, as it represents a critical prerequisite for further product evaluation. Stability was investigated through thermal stress testing (4–37 °C), centrifugation assays, droplet size analysis, and zeta potential measurements. Complementary physicochemical and structural characterization was performed using rheological analysis and Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy. The formulated emulsion exhibited good physical stability with no phase separation under the tested conditions, a skin-compatible pH, a uniform droplet size distribution (4.15 ± 0.68 µm), and pseudoplastic, moderately thixotropic rheological behavior. Antioxidant capacity was assessed using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay, yielding an IC₅₀ value of 19.21 ± 1.02 mg/mL. Overall, this study provides a formulation-oriented framework for the development and evaluation of stable natural oil-based O/W emulsions intended for cosmetic applications, supporting future optimization and biological validation. Full article

The enzymatic production of low-molecular-weight chitosan and chitooligosaccharides (COS), with broad application potential in agriculture, food, medicine, and cosmetics, has emerged as an attractive alternative to chemical chitosan depolymerization owing to its substrate specificity and environmentally benign catalytic action. However, the functional properties of available chitosanases need to be enhanced to meet the demands of industrial COS manufacturing under high temperature and substrate concentrations. In this work, we performed directed evolution on a recombinant Bacillus subtilis chitosanase to increase chitosan hydrolysis performance and thermal resistance. Three rounds of directed evolution screening (~9000 clones) yielded variants MT1, MT2, and MT3 with higher specific activity, achieved through Vmax improvement and increased T_1/2 at 60 °C. HPLC, DLS, and MALDI-TOF results indicate differences in the hydrolysis kinetics and size distribution of COS products over reaction time, suggesting a narrower distribution and a lower average molecular weight. Molecular dynamics simulations and docking studies revealed potential modulation of chitosanase activity via changes in the opening and closing dynamics of the active-site cleft. These results suggest that future efforts targeting the cleft interface could significantly advance both the catalytic performance and the mechanistic understanding of GH46 family chitosanases. Full article

Background: The skin microbiome plays a crucial role in maintaining barrier function and preventing inflammaging. Heat-treated probiotics offer stability advantages for topical formulations while potentially maintaining bioactive properties. Objective: To evaluate the safety, molecular mechanisms, and clinical efficacy of heat-treated Lactiplantibacillus plantarum Skinbac™ SB01 and Bifidobacterium animalis spp. lactis Skinbac™ SB05 in reducing visible signs of skin aging. Methods: In vitro studies assessed cytotoxicity (MTT/LDH assays), Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) expression, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK). A 30-day open-label clinical study (n = 20 females, 18–70 years) evaluated three formulations (face cream, serum, and eye contour) using instrumental measurements of hydration, elasticity, density, and roughness parameters. Results: In vitro testing showed a significant increase in AQP3 expression (+22% ± 3%, p = 0.03) and a non-significant reduction in ROS levels (−33% ± 9%, p = 0.06) at 10⁷ TFU/well, with no cytotoxicity observed. Clinical evaluation demonstrated statistically significant improvements: eye contour formulation achieved +10.5% deep skin hydration (p < 0.0001) and −11% average roughness (p < 0.0001); serum showed +28.7% immediate hydration (p < 0.0001); and face cream improved gross skin elasticity by +6.3% (p < 0.01). No adverse events were reported. An independent and methodologically distinct placebo-controlled study was included for contextual support and was not directly compared with the present trial; this study evaluated a related 1% postbiotic formulation and reported statistically significant improvements over placebo in roughness, wrinkle depth, hydration, and biomechanical parameters. Conclusions: This pilot study provides preliminary evidence that heat-treated L. plantarum SB01 and B. animalis spp. lactis SB05 formulations could safely improve skin hydration and reduce roughness parameters. While in vitro results show a significant increase in AQP3 expression and an exploratory (non-significant) reduction in ROS levels, larger controlled trials are warranted to confirm clinical efficacy. Full article

The silkworm, Bombyx mori (Bm), is an insect that contributes to industries such as silk production, cosmetics, medicine, and food, as well as to scientific research. A previous study showed that Bm odorant receptor (BmOr) genes, BmOr44, BmOr54, and BmOr63, may play a major role in oviposition. This research aimed to investigate the function of these three genes using a double-stranded RNA (dsRNA) technique to knock down their expression levels. Our results revealed that the gene-specific dsRNAs could moderately reduce the expression levels of BmOr44, BmOr54, and BmOr63 in the silk moth antenna. Silk moths were injected with 50 nM dsRNABmOr54 and 100 nM dsRNABmOr63 and showed relative oviposition rates under the mulberry leaves condition at 111.45% and 109.58%, respectively, when compared to those with dsRNAlacZ injection. The reduction in expression levels of these three genes showed no effect on the oviposition rates of the silk moths without mulberry leaves treatment. The expression levels of these BmOr genes were restored after fertilization, suggesting the temporary effects of the dsRNAs. Our findings suggested that variation in BmOr54 expression level was correlated with changes in oviposition behavior in Bombyx mori. Full article

Azo dyes represent the largest and most extensively used class of synthetic dyes in industries such as textiles, leather, paper, food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals. Due to their complex aromatic structures and the presence of azo (–N=N–) bonds, these dyes exhibit high chemical stability and resistance to degradation, leading to their persistent discharge into the environment through industrial wastewater. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the chemistry, sources, environmental fate, and toxicological impacts of azo dyes, with a particular focus on microbial remediation strategies. The roles of bacteria, fungi, algae, and microbial consortia, along with their enzymatic mechanisms and influencing factors, are critically discussed. The presence of azo dyes in aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems causes severe environmental problems, including reduced light penetration, disruption of photosynthetic activity, and deterioration of water quality. Moreover, the reductive cleavage of azo dyes can result in the formation of toxic, mutagenic, and carcinogenic aromatic amines, posing significant risks to ecological and human health. Conventional physicochemical treatment methods, although effective in decolorization, suffer from limitations such as high cost, energy demand, sludge generation, and incomplete mineralization. This review identifies key strategies for achieving scalable and eco-friendly solutions for industrial wastewater management. Full article

Pomegranate marc is a major, underutilized juice industry by-product rich in lipophilic polyunsaturated fatty acids—notably conjugated α-linolenic acids (CLnAs)—and hydrophilic polyphenols with potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Despite its potential for nutraceutical, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical applications, this matrix remains largely unexploited. This study presents a novel, sequential in-line extraction strategy combining supercritical CO₂ (ScCO₂) and subcritical water (scW) to recover complementary bioactive fractions. Both extraction steps were optimized via Response Surface Methodology (RSM). Box–Behnken optimization of ScCO₂ (43 MPa, 76 °C, 6.4 L min⁻¹, 124 min) yielded 30 g kg⁻¹ dry weight (dw) of oleoresin, achieving a 68% recovery of total oil. Subsequent scW extraction was optimized at 149 °C, with a 40 L kg⁻¹ water-to-solute ratio and 73 min extraction time, yielding 47 g kg⁻¹ dw of total phenolics (58% recovery). Strong agreement between experimental and predicted values confirmed the robustness of the models. Comprehensive profiling revealed a diverse phytocomplex including fatty acids, tocopherols, flavonoids, soluble sugars, and polysaccharides. Antioxidant assays confirmed that both γ-tocopherol and polyphenols significantly contribute to the extracts’ bioactivity. To improve physical handling, the aqueous fractions were converted into solid dispersions via spray drying with maltodextrin. Preliminary in vitro biological assessments on HEK-293 (human embryonic kidney) and MCF-7 (Michigan Cancer Foundation-7) cell lines suggested that the maltodextrin-based formulations may modulate the cytotoxic profile compared to the free extract, with exploratory results showing dosage-dependent variations in cell viability across the two lines. This work suggests a potentially scalable and sustainable biorefinery approach for the integral valorisation of pomegranate marc, offering a basis for a pathway to produce solvent-free bioactives. Full article

Global water scarcity, intensified by population growth, economic development, and climate change, presents a significant challenge, with the cosmetics industry contributing heavily to water demand. Simultaneously, the cork industry generates substantial amounts of cork boiling wastewater (CBW), an acidic effluent with environmental hazards. This study explored CBW’s potential for cosmetic application, focusing on safety, physicochemical properties, and suitability for incorporation in cosmetic formulations. Three CBW samples (A, B and C) were analyzed for pH, conductivity, turbidity, density, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging activity, and total phenolic content. CBW A displayed suitable physicochemical properties and potential antioxidant activity and was selected for further investigation. Human keratinocyte viability was assessed using CBW A before and after adsorption treatment with silica (TCBW A) to reduce cytotoxicity. CBW A was more toxic to human keratinocytes compared to control water, but treatment improved cell viability. This treatment had minimal impact on physicochemical parameters, aside from reducing phenolic content. Metal concentrations in TCBW A remained within cosmetic safety limits. TCBW A was incorporated into an oil-in-water (O/W) cream, which was further evaluated for pH, droplet size, rheological behavior, textural properties, and stability. The resulting cream was homogeneous, woody-scented, with uniform droplet size and stable after centrifugation. TCBW A incorporation provided suitable rheological behavior and formulation stability after 90 days of storage at 25 °C. These findings indicate that TCBW A has low cytotoxicity, suitable physicochemical properties, and provides stable cosmetic formulations, highlighting its potential as a sustainable ingredient for the cosmetic industry. Full article

Immortelle (Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G. Don, family Asteraceae) essential oils (HiEOs) and hydrosols (HiHYs) are widely used in cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and agricultural formulations. However, their composition and quality vary depending on geographical origin and production practices, while standardized reference values—particularly for hydrosols—are still lacking. The aim of this study was to investigate and compare the physicochemical properties and chemical composition of commercial HiEOs and HiHYs from the Adriatic and continental regions of Croatia. Samples were analysed using standard pharmacopoeial methods and gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS). Physicochemical analyses (relative density, acid value, refractive index, pH, turbidity, and essential oil content) showed that all samples were within generally accepted quality ranges, with no significant differences observed between regions using the Mann–Whitney U test. HiEOs were dominated by sesquiterpene hydrocarbons (53.15–55.60%), whereas HiHYs contained predominantly oxygenated monoterpenes (43.54–69.86%). The main compounds identified in both fractions were α-pinene, neryl acetate, γ-curcumene, and β-selinene, which formed a consistent chemical signature and served as practical biomarkers for the quality of H. italicum EO and hydrosol. Principal Component Analysis (PCA) distinguished sample groupings based on physicochemical properties and chemical composition, indicating regional variability without exceeding accepted quality limits. This study presents the first comparative dataset of Croatian commercial HiEOs and HiHYs, and defines practical parameter ranges to support standardized specifications, ensure consistent quality, and enhance the industrial applicability of immortelle-based products. Full article

The aim of this study was to evaluate the potential of selected agri-food by-products—apple pomace extract from Malus domestica cv. ‘Grochówka’ and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile L.) hydrolate—as functional, sustainable ingredients for cosmetic applications. The work focused on their chemical composition, biological activity, formulation performance, and in vivo effects on skin condition. Volatile compounds, phenolic acids, and triterpenoids were analyzed by GC–MS, while total phenolic content, antioxidant capacity, and enzyme inhibitory activity were evaluated in vitro. An oil-in-water emulsion containing the by-products was formulated and, in a 14-day split-face study, assessed for its effects on skin hydration, elasticity, inflammation, sensitivity, pore visibility, and melanin index. Biochemical analyses have shown that chamomile hydrolate is characterized by very low antioxidant activity (DPPH 5.0 ± 1.25%, FRAP 0%) and weak protease inhibition (9.70 ± 1.84%). In contrast, apple extract contained a significant amount of polyphenols (23.94 ± 0.3 mg GAE/g) and showed strong antioxidant properties (DPPH 79.4 ± 2.12%, FRAP 70.56 ± 2.23%; IC₅₀ = 21.5 ± 0.196 mg/mL), which confirms the dominant role of phenolic compounds in its biological activity. This extract also demonstrated significant protease inhibition (60.88 ± 2.35%; IC₅₀ = 15.02 ± 0.47 mg/mL), while its lipase inhibition activity was moderate (10%), which may be beneficial from a cosmetic perspective. The obtained results indicate that apple extract is a valuable raw material with multifaceted biological potential. Overall, the results demonstrate that apple pomace extract and chamomile hydrolate can be effectively valorized as bioactive cosmetic ingredients, supporting both skin health benefits and circular economy principles in sustainable cosmetic formulation. Full article

Natural and sustainable cosmetics represent a rapidly evolving frontier in dermatological science, integrating plant-derived bioactive compounds with advanced delivery technologies and environmentally conscious formulation design. Botanical ingredients, including polyphenols, flavonoids, terpenoids, alkaloids, and polysaccharides, modulate key biological pathways involved in oxidative stress, inflammation, extracellular matrix remodeling, pigmentation, and immune responses, thereby supporting skin regeneration, protection, and homeostasis. To overcome limitations related to instability, compositional variability, and limited skin penetration, these compounds are increasingly incorporated into advanced delivery systems such as nanoemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs), nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs), vesicular systems, microneedle platforms, three-dimensional matrices, and plant-derived extracellular vesicles (PDEVs). These technologies enhance cutaneous bioavailability, enable controlled release, and improve tissue targeting, linking formulation design to exposure–response relationships. In parallel, sustainability has become a critical component of product development. Circular economy strategies, including the upcycling of agro-industrial by-products, green extraction technologies, biodegradable packaging, and life cycle assessment, are reshaping cosmetic innovation. Regulatory frameworks are also evolving to address safety, efficacy, and transparency of natural claims, as well as the challenges of botanical standardization. This narrative review, conducted through a structured literature search, provides a mechanistically oriented analysis of botanical ingredients in dermatology, emphasizing molecular pathways, skin delivery science, and safety considerations. Rather than cataloguing ingredients, it proposes a translational framework linking phytochemistry, delivery science, safety-by-design principles, and sustainability to support the rational development of effective and safe dermatological formulations. Full article

Skin aging is driven by intrinsic factors, such as the accumulation of reactive oxygen species, and extrinsic factors, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which accelerate oxidative stress and extracellular matrix degradation. Strategies to mitigate skin aging often focus on antioxidant and anticollagenase activities. Several studies have shown that Pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) peel is an underutilized by-product rich in ellagitannins, which can be hydrolyzed into ellagic acid, a compound with well-documented bioactivity. Therefore, this study aims to investigate the effect of microbial fermentation using Lactiplantibacillus plantarum and Saccharomyces cerevisiae on the physicochemical properties and bioactivity of pomegranate peel juice. Non-fermented juice (NFJ), L. plantarum-fermented juice (LFJ), and S. cerevisiae-fermented juice (SFJ) were used for comparative evaluation. The results showed that fermentation (LFJ and SFJ) led to decreased pH and sugar content, along with significant increases in ellagic acid concentration, antioxidant activity, and collagenase inhibition compared to NFJ. After 168 h, ellagic acid levels increased to 329.87 µg/mL in LFJ and 341.41 µg/mL in SFJ, compared to 263.86 µg/mL in NFJ. Antioxidant activity also increased to 73.82%, 83.25%, and 82.70% for NFJ, LFJ, and SFJ, respectively. Meanwhile, collagenase inhibition was 67.43%, 71.81%, and 73.66% for NFJ, LFJ, and SFJ, respectively. These results provide scientific evidence that microbial fermentation enhances the bioactivity of pomegranate peel juice, showing its potential as a sustainable source of natural ingredients for future cosmetic applications. Further studies on formulation, stability, and safety are needed to translate the results into practical skincare products. Full article

Metal packaging materials remain fundamental across food, beverage, pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and technical sectors owing to their combination of mechanical robustness, total light and gas barrier performance, thermal resistance, and established recyclability. Aluminum alloys, tinplate, tin-free steel (TFS/ECCS), stainless steels, metal–matrix composites (MMCs), and metal–polymer or metal–paper laminates define distinct metal-based packaging architectures whose metallurgical and interfacial design governs forming behaviour, corrosion and migration pathways, coating integrity, and mechanical reliability. In this review, these architectures are examined from a materials- and systems-oriented perspective, linking composition, microstructure, processing routes, and surface engineering to functional performance across rigid, semi-rigid, and flexible formats. The analysis also considers the ongoing transition from bisphenol A (BPA)-based epoxy linings to BPA-free and hybrid coating chemistries, the use of nano-structured metallic and metal-oxide surfaces, and the role of composite laminates in which thin metallic foils are combined with polymeric or paper-based structural layers. These material and architectural aspects are discussed together with safety, regulatory, and circularity considerations that increasingly influence the design and selection of metal-based packaging. Ion migration, coating degradation, and corrosion under realistic storage environments are considered in relation to EU, FDA, ISO, and sector-specific requirements, while attention is also paid to the contrast between well-established closed-loop recycling infrastructures for aluminum and steel and the more complex end-of-life management of coated metals and multilayer laminates. The review provides a unified framework connecting materials selection, metallurgical design, processing, performance, regulatory compliance, and sustainability in metal-based packaging systems. Applications spanning consumer goods, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and advanced electronics are integrated to support an overall understanding of how metallic and hybrid metal-based architectures underpin functional reliability and life-cycle sustainability. Full article

Industrialization has caused extensive environmental change, including a global surge in plastic production and pollution. This has resulted in the accumulation of microplastics (MPs; <5 mm) and nanoplastics (NPs; <1 μm) in ecosystems worldwide. MPs originate from both primary sources, such as cosmetics and industrial applications, and secondary sources, through the degradation of larger plastic debris. As a result, MPs and NPs have become ubiquitous contaminants, posing significant toxicological risks to living organisms. These persistent pollutants are diverse polymers that vary in size, shape, and chemical composition, making their impacts on organism physiology complex and difficult to disentangle. Plastic pollution is particularly severe in aquatic environments, where particles accumulate from terrestrial sources such as urban dust, agricultural runoff, industrial discharges, and wastewater effluents. Although most research has centered on marine ecosystems, emerging evidence indicates that freshwater environments may contain comparable or even higher concentrations of MPs. Once inside the body, MPs can translocate into tissues and exert toxic effects on multiple organ systems. Collectively, plastic pollution poses not only physiological but also neurological and behavioral risks to aquatic life, with potential consequences for ecosystem stability and trophic interactions. Both MPs and NPs are sufficiently small to cross the blood–brain barrier, raising concerns about their potential impacts on the nervous system by interfering with neuronal function and brain development. Plastic particles can accumulate in neural tissues, inducing oxidative stress, neuroinflammation, and disruption of neurotransmitter signaling. Such neurotoxic effects are linked to altered locomotion, feeding, predator avoidance, and social behaviors across multiple species. This review examines current evidence on the neurotoxic effects of plastic pollution in aquatic organisms and underscores the urgent need for further research and action to mitigate its impact. In light of escalating plastic production and inadequate waste management, the growing evidence that MPs and NPs disrupt aquatic nervous systems, behavior, and ecosystem stability underscores an urgent need for intensified research, improved mitigation strategies, particularly for nanoplastics, and the accelerated development of truly safe and sustainable alternatives. Full article

Date palm (Phoenix dactylifera L.) by-products from bioethanol production represent an underutilized resource rich in bioactive molecules. This study aims to their valorization through characterization of polysaccharides and phenolic compounds from the Medjool variety, both before and after yeast fermentation for bioethanol production. Three sequential types of by-products were analyzed—Ext1 (post hot-extraction), Ext2 (post fermentation), and Ext3 (post distillation)—and compared with Dat-Me. High Performance Liquid Chromatograp-Diode Array Detector-Mass Spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-MS) analysis allowed identifying 22 phenolic compounds, primarily cinnamic acid derivatives and glycosylated flavones such as luteolin and chrysoeriol. Fermentation increased total phenolic content from dry weight, while leading to an improved polysaccharide recovery (i.e., from 14.2% to 42.1% dry weight). Two polysaccharide fractions (F1 and F2) were isolated and characterized by ¹H-NMR and Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS). F1 is a pectic polysaccharide, with a galacturonic acid content ranging from 24.2% (Ext3) to 52.2% (Dat-Me), a degree of methylation (DM) between 34.4 and 50.6%, and a degree of acetylation (DA) of 23.6–42.2%. F2 consists of a non-pectic polysaccharide, characterized by a low galacturonic acid content (5.6–6.8%) and a DM of 12.6–47.1%, but it is highly acetylated, with a DA ranging from 90.1 to 93.3%. DLS analysis confirmed fermentation-induced depolymerization, with molecular weights ranging from 6.6 × 10⁴ to 8.5 × 10⁵ KDa for both the fractions. Overall, Medjool date by-products obtained after bioethanol production represent a sustainable source of high-value phenolic antioxidants and polysaccharides with different structures suitable for future applications in food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic formulations. Full article

Sunscreens are essential for photoprotection, but conventional inorganic UV filters raise concerns regarding marine toxicity. This study investigated hydroxyapatite (HAp) derived from skipjack, tongol, and salmon bone waste as a potential synergistic booster for Tinosorb^® S (TS). HAp powders were prepared via alkaline treatment and calcination at 900 °C. XRD and XRF results confirmed highly crystalline HAp as the dominant phase. While 10% HAp alone provided negligible UV protection, a pronounced synergistic effect was observed in 1:1 hybrid formulations (5% HAp:5% TS), significantly enhancing Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and Ultraviolet A Protection Factor (UVAPF). Notably, particle-size refinement of salmon-derived HAp (SM–HAp) yielded an SPF of approximately 35, comparable to a commercial HAp counterpart. This improvement was suggested to be associated with enhanced dispersion, film uniformity, and particle–matrix interactions, which might contribute to achieving PA++++ protection. All formulations complied with microbiological and heavy metal safety standards. These results indicated that fish bone-derived HAp could potentially serve as a viable and sustainable functional additive derived from marine biowaste for the development of high-performance hybrid sunscreens, promoting biomaterial valorization in the cosmetic industry. Full article