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Cosmetics
  • Review
  • Open Access

19 January 2023

The Biological Role of Dead Sea Water in Skin Health: A Review

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Fosun Cosmetics (Shanghai) Bio-Technology Co., Ltd., 333 GuiPing Road, Shanghai 200233, China
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Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry

Abstract

Applying natural mineral water to skin care is a popular tendency and many cosmetics products based on thermal spring water have been developed. The special location and environmental conditions provide Dead Sea water (DSW) with unique ion composition and concentrations, which bring comprehensive positive effects on skin health. This article reviews two potential action modes of DSW, and the biological function of DSW and its related complex in dermatology and skin care. Previous studies have proved the functions of skin moisturization, anti-inflammation, skin barrier repair, and anti-pollution. Especially, the anti-aging effect of DSW and related complexes can act in three different ways: keratinocyte rejuvenation, photo-protection, and cellular energy elevation. Additionally, the issues that need further investigation are also discussed. We hope that this review will help to improve the understanding of DSW and its related complex, and further contribute to product development in the skincare industry.

1. Introduction

The Dead Sea, located on the border of Israel, Palestine, and Jordan, is the lowest point on the continent and one of the three most saline lakes in the world, with a salinity of about 300‰. The extreme environmental conditions have shaped the Dead Sea into a forbidden area for higher plants and animals. Only a few salt-tolerant plants and microorganisms can survive on the shore or around the lake. Nevertheless, the skincare benefits of Dead Sea water (DSW) have been known since biblical times [1], mainly due to its unique ionic concentration and composition.
Compared to other natural waters, such as ordinary seawater and hot springs, DSW has a very high ratio of divalent to monovalent cation concentrations. The main divalent cations are magnesium, calcium, and strontium, and the main monovalent cations are sodium and potassium. Additionally, the highest concentration of anions is not chloride ion, but bromine ion, and DSW also contain some trace metal elements, such as zinc and manganese. The elemental composition of DSW is shown in Table 1.
Table 1. Major elements composition in Dead Sea water.
Numerous experimental and cohort studies have proved the therapeutic properties of DSW in dermatological conditions. Therapeutic bathing in the Dead Sea can significantly improve skin dryness, peeling, itching, and pain, and alleviate the related inflammation [2]. All these are the common symptoms caused by chronic skin diseases, such as psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis, and vitiligo [3]. Therefore, Dead Sea climate therapy has become a recognized adjunctive treatment for skin diseases recommended by dermatologists [4]. Thanks to these properties, scientists endeavored to investigate the skincare benefits and potential cosmetics application of DSW through both in vitro and in vivo evaluations. The results showed that DSW and related complexes can protect the skin comprehensively via moisturization, barrier repair, anti-inflammation, and anti-aging.
This review is aimed to summarize the reports on the mechanism of action, the skincare properties of the DSW and its related complex, as well as research directions in the future.

2. Mechanism of Action of DSW

2.1. Direct Action

There is a long history of trying to incorporate or directly use mineral-rich water for skin care. Massive scientific studies have proved the positive skin conditioning effect as a result of the different types, concentrations, and ratios of mineral elements [5]. For example, using hairless mice as experimental subjects, the scientist found that applying magnesium chloride solution alone can accelerate skin barrier restoration [6]. The exocytosis function of lipid-containing platelet vesicles within upper epidermal keratinocytes was elevated after using chloride ion carriers [7]. Another experiment found that the application of K+ channel blockers inhibited skin recovery, whereas treatment with molecules that open the same channels (or are classified as K+ carriers) can accelerate skin recovery by regulating platelet vesicle secretion. This suggested that the alterations of K+ channel activity can significantly affect skin barrier homeostasis [8]. Moreover, Ca2+ gradient and signaling are also key for a healthy skin barrier and barrier homeostasis. During aging, as well as in diabetic skin, dysregulated calcium signaling occurs and the Ca2+ gradient is flattened [9]. Besides driving keratinocyte differentiation, the Ca2+ gradient also plays a role in cell migration and wound healing [10]. In summary, it can be assumed that the abundance of Mg2+, Ca2+, Cl, and K+ in DSW can prominently improve the barrier function of the skin. At the same time, the experiment has revealed that the application of 5% MgCl2 can specifically inhibit the TNF-α production by epidermal cells, and also the antigen-presenting capacity of Langerhans cells [11]. Due to the high concentration of Mg2+ in DSW, we can conclude that DSW has good anti-inflammation potential.
In addition to different types of elements, the concentrations and ratios of elements can also impose various effects on skin health. For example, Avène Thermal Spring Water, which is low in minerals but rich in bicarbonate and silicates, could serve as a regulator for cell membrane fluidity, antioxidants, and an anti-inflammatory agent [12,13]. Oppositely, the mineral-rich Vichy Thermal Spring Water exhibited more diverse skincare effects, including the increase of stratum corneum peroxidase activity and the promotion of skin homeostasis-related gene expression [14,15]. Thus the unique ionic composition and ratio in DSW may also confer powerful potential for skin care applications.

2.2. Indirect Action

In previous research, Ca2+, due to its high inspecting sensitivity, was selected as the biomarker to represent the ion transport in DSW. No change was observed in the calcium concentration of the culture medium, which suggests that the ions in DSW might not function via transdermal transport [16]. Moderate ionic osmotic stress (MIOS), induced by applying hypersaline materials like Dead Sea water and mud, has been proven to have beneficial contributions to skin health. The positive effects include an impact on the modulation of cell-cycle dynamics, which further leads to a stronger epidermal barrier function, skin hydration elevation, and inflammatory response reduction [17]. The fundamental principle is that the dissolved mineral salts act through the induction of the cell osmosis, and participate in osmotic stress mechano-transduction via piezo-electric ion channels [18].
Although these conclusions have been proven by many experiments at the molecular level, the fundamental mechanism remains unknown. To verify the conjecture, Cohen et al. performed experiments on internal ROS-elevated skin cells and organ models. They found that enhanced Nrf2 (nuclear factor erythroid-2- related factor 2) translocation into the nucleus, upregulation of phase-II antioxidant enzymes, and downregulation of NF-κB-related inflammatory proteins (cytokines IL-1β, IL-8, and caspase-3) are witnessed after MIOS exposure. Taken together, MIOS can result in modulating intracellular ROS generation, which activates the physiological redox homeostasis of the skin and evokes the induction of various biochemical pathways, such as the Nrf2 pathway [19].

4. Current Challenges for the Use of DSW

Though DSW shows a unique biological role in maintaining skin health, there are still tremendous issues to be addressed.
The core problem is how to strike the balance between Dead Sea resources exploitation and eco-protection. Environmental factors, such as climate alteration, ongoing sinkholes, and geochemistry variation, could lead to the scarcity of water resources [80]. In addition to the natural influences, human intervention also threatens the preservation of Dead Sea resources. Water pollution, exhaustive exploitation, and changes in biodiversity could all aggravate the exhaustion of Dead Sea resources. As reported, the Dead Sea’s sea level has dropped at a speed of 1 m/year in the last 5 decades, bringing the challenge of sustainable supply of DSW.
The exterior variation of the Dead Sea also contributes to another issue: quality control. Apart from seasonal and locational differentiation, the ion concentration, the ratio between different minerals, and the metabolites from microbials could be affected by environmental changes, which might eventually lead to unpredictable biological effects.
The application of DSW in cosmetic products also evokes great challenges, not only because a higher concentration of DSW in products might cause potential skin irritation and discomfort, but also due to its relatively high ion strength. This would hamper the stability of the cosmetic formula by sabotaging emulsion thermo-dynamic homogeneity and altering the rheological properties of the whole system. Additionally, DSW might also impose an antagonistic effect with other actives in formula, resulting in unwanted precipitation or efficacy invalidation. However, there is a cosmetic brand that has produced a series of related products with broad effects and diverse forms, like hydrating sprays, lotions, and creams. The DSW here functions more as the actives instead of the main ingredient.
Considering this, many efforts have been made to improve their utilization in formulations. For example, scientists dispersed the nanosized Dead Sea mineral in mixed oil (Crystal Osmoter™) and achieved six times higher concentrations DSW on skin, for which the clinical tests showed a better performance on wrinkle reduction, firming, and radiance than normal DSW with no irritation. At the same time, new delivery systems were also developed, like liposomes (LipOsmoter™) or strontium hexaferrite (SrFe12O19) nanomagnets, which enhance the safety of DSW and provide a longer-term skincare benefit.
Although there are some inventions about the DSW application in cosmetics products, still many issues need to be explored, like how to complement the synergy of DSW and how to stabilize the system even if added in a high DSW concentration.
Since the DSW is a complex mixture of different minerals and other trace elements, it is of great urgency to determine the exact composition of DSW. Especially for the trace elements, more advanced analytic techniques are needed to quantitatively evaluate their contents. Facing resource shortages and environment pollution, the artificial DSW (ADSW) consisting of the main ion compositions are formulated in labs. Unfortunately, it has shown weaker effects on both cell models and human skin organ cultures than natural DSW (unpublished data). It is probable that the trace element and microbe-secreted bioactive substances can make up part of the skincare effects of natural DSW. Thus a more delicate choice of DSW content should be studied first.
In addition, the interaction between different ions and dose-function relation of DSW should be further investigated. Each type of ion might play complex roles in modulating biological processes and molecular functions on skin, thus DSW might bring even more complicated cellular interplays.
To sum up, the current challenges for the use of DSW lie in the short supply, unpredictable quality variation, compatibility concerns in the formulas, as well as lack of understanding of DSW components and interrelated mechanism.

5. Future Direction

The skincare benefits of Dead Sea water and its related complex have been demonstrated in many studies and cover a wide range of functions, including moisturization, barrier repair, anti-inflammation, anti-aging, photo-protection, cellular energy elevation, and relief of skin disease symptoms. However, several issues are still worthy of further investigation, which are listed below.
Firstly, although the extreme hypersaline environmental conditions of Dead Sea water hamper the growth of higher plants and animals, microorganisms like fungi and bacteria can still survive [81,82,83]. Extremophiles are often thought to be a huge reservoir of active substances [84]. For example, an extremely salt-tolerant Bacillus strain isolated from Dead Sea had significant antibacterial and fungal activity in its aqueous extract. One of them can even resist all the tested bacteria strains [85,86]. Haloarcula vallismortis is a kind of halophilic archaeon with reddish colonies [87]. Its extract has a significant anti-inflammatory activity that can resist the DNA damage induced by UV exposure, which suggests its potential for use as a biological or natural sunscreen [88]. Although some Dead Sea source strains have been isolated and purified, studies for their bioactive product utilization are still scarce and need to be further investigated experimentally.
Secondly, the number of skin microbiome-related studies is increasing rapidly in recent years and the relationship between the skin microbiome and skin health is gradually being revealed [89,90,91]. The effects of DSW and related complexes on skin microbiomes are less evaluated, and most of them are involved in skin diseases. Based on a healthy population, a previous experiment compared the change in the skin microbiome after DSW application [83]. They found that bacterial community diversity is almost constant, while fungal diversity was significantly lower than before, the variation of which is driven primarily by Malassezia spp. It’s known that the abnormal abundance of Malassezia can lead to free radicals release and inflammatory skin issues [92]. The variation pattern of AD (Atopic Dermatitis) patients has also been explored after using DSW. The results show that the unbalance of skin microbial ecology, which occurs at both lesion and non-lesion sites, was significantly attenuated after DSW application [93]. The most significant changes were seen in severe AD, mainly reflected in the relative abundance of Staphylococcus epidermidis, Streptococcus mitis, and Micrococcus luteus. Current studies usually used the high-throughput 16S rRNA or ITS (internally transcribed spacer) amplicon sequencing method, which is of low resolution and limited information availability. A more comprehensive metagenome approach should be established subsequently to obtain more accurate and profound findings [94].
Thirdly, in contrast to the extensive exploration of DSW, the research involved in the skincare effect of Dead Sea mud is rare [2,95,96,97,98]. Previous experimental results have proven that both short-term and long-term application of Dead Sea-derived mud has a high safety profile. It causes no damage to skin barrier integrity but has a firming effect instead [99,100]. Furthermore, Dead Sea black mud-derived masks have been shown to accelerate the wound healing process in mice skin by promoting granulation, angiogenesis, and collagen deposition [101]. The mud is also found to inactivate common microorganisms and produced an obvious growth inhibition area, suggesting its significant antibacterial effect [102]. As the seed of Dead Sea minerals, the studies of Dead Sea mud should not be limited to the basic skincare functions, but also more to its applications in cosmetics.

6. Conclusions

Dead Sea water has a unique ion composition and its benefits on skin health have been well-known since ancient times. From previous research, we summarize two potential action modes of DSW. The first one is the direct penetration of mineral ions, and the second one is the moderate ionic osmotic stress mechanism, which can activate the cellular osmotic stress-related pathway via ion channels. The chronic skin disease improvements and comprehensive skincare efficacy of DSW and its related complex are also illustrated. Specifically, they can resist skin senescence from three different perspectives (keratinocyte rejuvenation promotion, photo-protection, and cellar energy elevation), which indicates their strong application potential in anti-aging cosmetics product development. However, many other aspects of the Dead Sea resource are still unknown and need to be studied, such as the Dead Sea mud, secondary metabolites of Dead Sea bacteria and fungi, and also their effects on the skin microbiome.

Author Contributions

Conceptualization, D.D. and X.M.; writing—original draft preparation, D.D; writing—review and editing, D.D., X.M., X.Y. and X.B. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of the manuscript.

Funding

This research received no external funding.

Institutional Review Board Statement

Not applicable.

Data Availability Statement

Not applicable.

Conflicts of Interest

The authors declare no conflict of interest.

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