Search Results (54)

Stinging nettles (Urtica dioica) have a long history of association with human civilization, having been used as a source of textile fibers, food and medicine. Here, we present a chromosome-level, phased genome assembly for a diploid female clone of Urtica dioica from Romania. Using a combination of PacBio HiFi, Oxford Nanopore, and Illumina sequencing, as well as Hi-C long-range interaction data (using a novel Hi-C protocol presented here), we assembled two haplotypes of 574.9 Mbp (contig N50 = 10.9 Mbp, scaffold N50 = 44.0 Mbp) and 521.2 Mbp (contig N50 = 13.5 Mbp, scaffold N50 = 48.0 Mbp), with assembly BUSCO scores of 92.6% and 92.2%. We annotated 20,333 and 20,140 genes for each haplotype, covering over 90% of the complete BUSCO genes and including two copies of a gene putatively encoding the neurotoxic peptide urthionin, which could contribute to nettle’s characteristic sting. Despite its relatively small size, the nettle genome displays very high levels of repetitiveness, with transposable elements comprising more than 60% of the genome, as well as considerable structural variation. This genome assembly represents an important resource for the nettle community and will enable the investigation of the genetic basis of the many interesting characteristics of this species. Full article

Cashmere is widely acclaimed as one of the most luxurious textile fibers. Mongolia, a major player in cashmere production and processing, is key to this industry. Despite the rich history of cashmere, there is limited research on cashmere fiber properties, which are essential in producing high-quality garments. This study aims to improve our understanding of cashmere fibers’ physical and mechanical properties and to assess how genetic and non-genetic factors affect these characteristics. We analyzed key fiber characteristics, including scale morphology, and the physical and mechanical properties (such as fineness, length parameters, stress, and strain) in 11 samples from Mongolian goats of varying areas, breeds, ages, and genders. Through detailed statistical analysis, our experimental results revealed that both genetic and non-genetic factors significantly affect fiber fineness and the specific energy of rupture. Additionally, we observed that the influence of these factors can inform better classification systems for raw cashmere and enhance the determination of the fiber’s spinability limit. Full article

The starting point of this proposal is a collection of decorated cuias, preserved in Portugal and produced by Indigenous women in Grão-Pará in the 18th century. The objects in question are an exemplary case of the global art history of the Amazonian communities. In order to investigate them, it is necessary to consider the procurement and ritual use of cuias (fruits of the cuieira tree-Crescentia cuyete), the sophisticated techniques used to produce a durable, glossy, black varnish from cumatê (or cumaté, cumati), a natural dark red pigment extracted from the skins of the cumatezeiro or axuazeiro tree (Myrcia atramentifera), as well as the incorporation of fauna and flora motifs from Asian or Asian-inspired textiles and embroidery, which circulated worldwide. Their history brings together the nature of the forest, the myths of creation, and the knowledge and practices of Indigenous and riverine women, mainly from the lower Amazon. Studying these objects produced by Indigenous female painters in a colonial context of appropriation, in addition to contributing to their knowledge, can stimulate dialogues on the knowledge of the Brazilian Amazon rainforest with other locations in America, sharing their ancestry and resistance. Full article

The art of dyeing textiles has a long history, as natural dyes have been used since prehistoric times. With the development of synthetic dyes in the 19th century, the focus shifted from natural to synthetic dyes due to their superior properties. Recently, however, interest in natural dyes has increased again due to environmental and health concerns. Among industrial dyes, heterocyclic dyes, especially azo dyes, are of great importance due to their color brilliance and fastness. This review examines the synthesis, application, and analysis of azo dyes, especially heterocyclic dyes. It deals with monoazo, diazo, and polyazo dyes and highlights their structures, synthesis methods, and fastness properties. In addition, the ecological impact of azo dyes and practical solutions for their synthesis and application are discussed. Full article

In this compilation, the focus is on the Cochineal insect (Dactylopius coccus Costa, 1835 (Hemiptera: Dactylopiidae)), a creature native to South America that produces a potent natural red pigment known as “carmine”. This pigment, utilized for obtaining the color red, has been an integral part of the art world for thousands of years. Indigenous cultures, in particular, have employed the dye extracted from this insect in the creation of textile dyes and paintings. Moreover, the Cochineal insect and its unique pigments have not only supported artistic expression but also captivated and inspired artists. During the Renaissance period, artists preferred the carmine pigment produced by the females of the Cochineal insect for obtaining bright and vivid red tones. This study delves into the history of the Cochineal insect, its role in art, and its perception in the modern world. Famous paintings created with dyes obtained from the Cochineal insect are discussed, exploring how pigments have found a place in the art world and how artists have utilized this extraordinary source to create distinctive works. Full article

In the first half of the twentieth century, scientific communities worldwide endeavored to diminish dependence on expensive and scarce animal fibers like wool and silk. Their efforts focused on developing regenerated protein fibers, including soy, zein, and casein, to provide comparable benefits to natural protein fibers, such as lustrous appearance, warmth, and a soft feel. The popularity and cost-effectiveness of mass-produced petroleum-based synthetic polymer fibers during World War II diminished interest in developing soy protein fiber. Realizing the ecological degradation caused by fossil fuels and their derived products, a renewed drive exists to explore bio-based waste materials like soy protein. As a fast-growing crop, soy provides abundant byproducts with opportunities for waste valorization. The soybean oil extraction process produces soy protein as a byproduct, which is a highly tunable biopolymer. Various functional groups within the soy protein structure enable it to acquire different valuable properties. This review critically examines scholarly publications addressing soy protein fiber developmental history, soy protein microstructure modification methods, and soy protein fiber spinning technologies. Additionally, we provide our scientific-based views relevant to overcoming the limitations of previous work and share prospects to make soy protein byproducts viable textile fibers. Full article

The European building stock demands urgent renovation due to the age of the buildings, their expected lifetime, and their excessive energy consumption, which accounts for more than a third of the EU’s total emissions. However, the complexities involved, such as time, costs, and structural modifications, often discourage clients, tenants, and occupants from undergoing a building renovation process. Textile membranes, despite their long history in various architectural applications, have only been employed in façades in the last decades. Their intrinsic properties, such as lightness and flexibility, together with rapid assembly and low maintenance make these materials particularly suitable for façade retrofitting. Therefore, they are worth exploring as a way to promote the development of lightweight and easy-to-assemble façade products that could help overcome the current limitations of building retrofitting efforts. This paper aims to establish relationships between textile membranes and potential building retrofit applications. To this end, this study builds on the categorization of traditional façade retrofit strategies and proposes a new classification for textile façade retrofit products. The methodology includes a comprehensive literature review of textile properties and characteristics, along with a thorough assessment through case studies, of membrane use in façade applications. A sequential investigation leads to the main outcome of identifying three clear pathways for the development of new textile-based façade products for building retrofit. Full article

Silk has been consistently popular throughout human history due to its enigmatic properties. Today, it continues to be widely utilized as a polymer, having first been introduced to the textile industry. Furthermore, the health sector has also integrated silk. The Bombyx mori silk fibroin (SF) holds the record for being the most sustainable, functional, biocompatible, and easily produced type among all available SF sources. SF is a biopolymer approved by the FDA due to its high biocompatibility. It is versatile and can be used in various fields, as it is non-toxic and has no allergenic effects. Additionally, it enhances cell adhesion, adaptation, and proliferation. The use of SF has increased due to the rapid advancement in tissue engineering. This review comprises an introduction to SF and an assessment of the relevant literature using various methods and techniques to enhance the tissue engineering of SF-based hydrogels. Consequently, the function of SF in skin tissue engineering, wound repair, bone tissue engineering, cartilage tissue engineering, and drug delivery systems is therefore analysed. The potential future applications of this functional biopolymer for biomedical engineering are also explored. Full article

Using buttons and beads sewn on wool and calico, Northwest Coast First Nations women fashion the robes and aprons essential to ongoing expressions of inherited prerogatives and rights. Each piece of regalia is carefully crafted to include signifying materials and motifs, telling of the origins or relations of their owners. These creations exist as part of a holistic system that integrates material artworks within ceremony, including song, dance, and oratory, which in turn uphold the laws expressed through potlatching. Shifting scholarly focus from Northwest Coast carving traditions, this paper recenters textile arts within a holistic, culturally focused context while addressing issues of gender, the effects of colonial practices, and the damage wrought by salvage anthropology as it fragmented cultural information across archives. Women’s artistic productions embody long-held technical and aesthetic knowledge connected to oral histories and cultural practices. Restoring Indigenous perspectives connecting tangible and intangible cultural heritage counterbalances the aesthetic emphasis that has dominated Northwest Coast art history. Full article

Thermophysiological comfort is a crucial aspect of human life, contributing to health and work performance. The current paper aims to enhance the understanding of current research, progress, and remaining challenges regarding clothing thermophysiological comfort from a textile science perspective. It provides a comprehensive review of several facets of clothing thermophysiological comfort, focusing on the history of thermophysiological comfort prediction models, heat and moisture transfer mechanisms in the skin–clothing–environment system, controlling factors of thermophysiological comfort, textile materials for superior thermophysiological comfort, and thermal comfort assessment techniques. The paper shows that previously developed thermophysiological comfort models were mainly based on the human thermoregulation process. However, the effect of the air gap size between the human skin and the cloth layer, i.e., the microclimate, on the heat and moisture transfer in the skin–clothing–environment system has been largely overlooked. In addition, thermophysiological comfort models of skin–clothing–environment systems generally only considered dry thermal resistance and evaporative resistance, yet many other fabric properties have effects on human thermophysiological comfort. Potential future directions are identified to fill some of the current gaps. A conceptual model of clothing comfort to contribute to a better understanding of thermophysiological comfort is also proposed. Full article

Silk has a long history as an exclusive textile, but also as a suture thread in medicine; nowadays, diverse cell carriers are manufactured from silk. Its advantages are manifold, including high biocompatibility, biomechanical strength and processability (approved for nearly all manufacturing techniques). Silk’s limitations, such as scarcity and batch to batch variations, are overcome by gene technology, which allows for the upscaled production of recombinant “designed” silk proteins. For processing thin fibroin filaments, the sericin component is generally removed (degumming). In contrast to many synthetic biomaterials, fibroin allows for superior cell adherence and growth. In addition, silk grafts demonstrate superior mechanical performance and long-term stability, making them attractive for anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) tissue engineering. Looking at these promising properties, this review focusses on the responses of cell types to silk variants, as well as their biomechanical properties, which are relevant for ACL tissue engineering. Meanwhile, sericin has also attracted increasing interest and has been proposed as a bioactive biomaterial with antimicrobial properties. But so far, fibroin was exclusively used for experimental ACL tissue engineering approaches, and fibroin from spider silk also seems not to have been applied. To improve the bone integration of ACL grafts, silk scaffolds with osteogenic functionalization, silk-based tunnel fillers and interference screws have been developed. Nevertheless, signaling pathways stimulated by silk components remain barely elucidated, but need to be considered during the development of optimized silk cell carriers for ACL tissue engineering. Full article

This article presents the methodology and collective work strategies that constitute the Club de Lectura y Museo Comunitario de Sierra Hermosa (Sierra Hermosa Community Museum and Reading Club) in Zacatecas, Mexico, a space founded by visual artist Juan Manuel de la Rosa, a native of this place. The museum emerged as a small library in 2000; and a short time after its founding, the museological program incorporated textile workshops and an exhibition gallery for a collection organized with local and external donations. It also operates with a system of rotation within the town. This article reviews the historical, theoretical, and critical implications around the conception and action of the museum, with a focus on the colonial and the migration status that sustains the reality and history of this rural locality, situated on the Tropic of Cancer in the north of Mexico. In the context of extreme violence, extractive politics, and migratory crisis in Zacatecas, this article analyzes two artistic productions by the local painter Luis Lara and artist Cristóbal Gracia, developed in the context of this experimental and rural museum curatorial program. Moreover, this article redefines concepts such as the border, mobility, and cultural contact in an artistic, museological, and pedagogical context, and proposes alternatives to study Sierra Hermosa’s memory, history, and landscape. Full article

The aim of the research is to improve the public’s assessment and understanding of the cultural values and history of Bulgaria. The main issues related to the sustainable use of elements of the cultural heritage are defined, and the accessible literary sources related to the digitization of the folklore heritage are reviewed. Shape indices, color, and textural characteristics were obtained from digital color images of the elements of Bulgarian folk costumes. The most informative indices of these features were selected. A kernel variant of the principal component analysis (kPCA) method was used to reduce the data volume of the feature vector. A Naïve Bayes classifier, discriminant analysis, and the support vector method (SVM) were used for classification. The classification accuracy was assessed. In the analysis of the decorative elements of Bulgarian costumes, it was found that the accuracy of classification depended both on the method for reducing the volume of data and on the separability of the classes of data, depending on the classifier used. In the analysis of microscopic images of textile fabrics from Bulgarian costumes, it was found that the accuracy of classification for the studied objects depended both on the method for reducing the volume of data and on the used classifier. In the considered cases, a classification error below 10% was obtained using a non-linear kPCA kernel and SVM with a non-linear partition function. It was proven that the results of this development can be used in the creation of modern cross-stitch patterns, textile patterns, and clothing. The practical application of these research findings has the potential to benefit various stakeholders, including cultural heritage institutions, researchers, artisans, designers, and the general public, promoting a deeper appreciation and sustainable use of costume embroidery elements. Research can continue in the direction of the sustainable use and preservation of embroidery elements of Bulgarian costumes, enriching the understanding of cultural heritage and promoting appreciation for it in future generations. Full article

Several plant papain-like cysteine proteases are exploited by the food, cosmetic, pharmaceutical and textile industries. However, some of these enzymes can cause allergic reactions. In this context, we investigated the frequency of sensitization and allergic reactions to some fruit and/or latex cysteine proteases, which are used as additives by the food industry to improve and modify the quality of their products. The FABER test was used to analyse the patients‘ sensitization towards five plants and, for comparison, two homologous mite cysteine proteases. In an Italian population of 341 allergic patients, 133 (39%) had IgE specific for at least one of the seven cysteine proteases under investigation. Most of the patients were IgE positive for Der p 1 and/or Der f 1 (96.38%) reported a clinical history suggestive of respiratory allergy to mites, whereas none of the subjects sensitized to the homologs from papaya, pineapple and fig reported allergy symptoms following ingestion of these foods. Only one patient referred symptoms from ingesting kiwifruit. Therefore, the obtained results showed that sensitization to the fruit enzymes was only rarely concomitant with allergic reactions. These observations, together with the literature reports, suggest that the allergy to plant papain-like cysteine proteases might mainly be an occupational disease. Full article

Flax is an economic crop with a long history. It is grown worldwide and is mainly used for edible oil, industry, and textiles. Here, we reported a high-quality genome assembly for “Neiya No. 9”, a popular variety widely grown in China. Combining PacBio long reads, Hi-C sequencing, and a genetic map reported previously, a genome assembly of 473.55 Mb was constructed, which covers ~94.7% of the flax genome. These sequences were anchored onto 15 chromosomes. The N50 lengths of the contig and scaffold were 0.91 Mb and 31.72 Mb, respectively. A total of 32,786 protein-coding genes were annotated, and 95.9% of complete BUSCOs were found. Through morphological and cytological observation, the male sterility of flax was considered dominant nuclear sterility. Through GWAS analysis, the gene LUSG00017705 (cysteine synthase gene) was found to be closest to the most significant SNP, and the expression level of this gene was significantly lower in male sterile plants than in fertile plants. Among the significant SNPs identified in the GWAS analysis, only two were located in the coding region, and these two SNPs caused changes in the protein encoded by LUSG00017565 (cysteine protease gene). It was speculated that these two genes may be related to male sterility in flax. This is the first time the molecular mechanism of male sterility in flax has been reported. The high-quality genome assembly and the male sterility genes revealed, provided a solid foundation for flax breeding. Full article