Search Results (37)

Background/Objectives: Treatment options for androgenic alopecia are still very limited and lack long-term efficacy. Dutasteride (DUT) has gained interest as a potent inhibitor of 5α-reductase, allowing for spaced applications, but DUT oral intake can cause serious adverse effects. Herein, we developed, characterized, and assessed the potential of DUT-loaded ethosomes with increasing ethanolic concentrations for hair follicle (HF) targeting to treat androgenic alopecia, hypothesizing that ethanol’s interaction with HFs’ sebum might increase DUT targeting to the HFs. Methods: Ethosomes were obtained using the water-dropping method. After a hydrodynamic size screening, a 30% ethanol concentration was fixed. Ethosomes with 30% ethanol were also prepared and had their ethanolic content removed by rotary evaporation for the evaluation of ethanol in targeting DUT to the HFs. The targeting factor (Tf) was calculated as the ratio between the DUT amount in HFs and the total DUT amount recovered from all skin layers after in vitro porcine skin penetration tests for 12 and 24 h. Results: The ethanolic concentration affected the vesicles’ size and the targeting potential. While the dried ethosomes could not increase DUT accumulation in the HFs at both time points (Tf: 0.27 in 12 h and Tf: 0.28 in 24 h), the presence of 30% ethanol in the vesicles increased the Tf from 0.28 (12 h) to 0.34 (24 h), significantly superior (p < 0.05) than the dried ethosome and control (Tf: 0.24) in 24 h. Conclusion: Ethosomes with a 30% ethanolic concentration were slightly more efficient in targeting HFs for dutasteride delivery. Full article

Cumulative exposure to UV radiation can lead to harmful effects such as skin burns, photoaging, and skin cancer, thus highlighting the importance of using photoprotective formulations. Many sunscreens are vegan and have antioxidant substances to ensure additional photochemoprotective action. We evaluated biophysical, rheological, and sensorial parameters of Face Care Facial Moisturizing Cream^® (P1) and a vegan formulation (P2) by in vitro and in vivo tests. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) was evaluated by Mansur method. Biophysical parameters were analyzed: sebum content, hydration level, transepidermal water loss, erythema and melanin level, skin color, and skin pH. The acceptance profile of the formulations was determined using a 9-point hedonic scale and a 5-point purchase intention test. The SPF values of P1 and P2 obtained by in vitro tests were 25.21 and 12.10, respectively. They also exhibited pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior, which could contribute to better spreadability and form a protective film. Biometric tests showed an increase in hydration and skin sebum, decreased erythema, and maintenance of skin pH after application of both formulations. The comparison of a commercialized product and a vegan test version showed similar rheological and great acceptance profiles. Therefore, the vegan formulation is a good alternative to reach a different market. Full article

Background: Dissolvable Microneedle Patches (DMP) have emerged as a promising approach for improved topical delivery of skincare agents with dermatological values (dermo-cosmetics), effectively addressing the various skin concerns. These patches enable minimally invasive penetration of the skin’s outer layer, facilitating efficient transdermal delivery of actives by overcoming skin barrier for successful outcomes. Objectives: The aim of this work was to assess the efficacy and safety of hyaluronic acid-based microneedle patches (HA-MNP) with agents for the managements of an inflammatory disorder of acne. A particular focus was on helping individuals with moderate inflammatory acne. Methods: A single-center clinical trial was conducted over a period of four weeks on acne patients. Measurable skin properties, including sebum content, redness, and severity of inflammation, were evaluated to gauge the overall usefulness of the MN patches. Results: The application of the patches resulted in a significant decrease in sebum content, with reductions of −4.9% and −36.8% observed after two and four weeks of use, respectively. The redness of localized acne lesions also showed a marked decline, with reductions of −47.2% and −65.5% observed after two and four weeks of use, respectively. Additionally, the severity of inflammatory signs in acne lesions showed significant improvements, with reductions of −68.8% and −83.3% observed for the application periods. The patches utilized in this investigation exhibited highly encouraging results, displaying a notable synergistic effect in the context of combating acne without adverse effects. Conclusions: The patches have the potential to be broadly applied as a modular and adaptable approach for therapeutic delivery of actives for various skin diseases and concerns. Full article

Background: Sensitive skin exhibits impaired skin barrier function. The lipid composition of the skin, a pivotal element within the stratum corneum’s “brick-and-mortar” structure, plays a dual role: it is integral to cell differentiation processes and serves as a vital nutrient reservoir for cutaneous microbiota, thereby influencing the skin’s microecological balance. There is a notable research gap concerning the comparative analysis of physiological parameters and lipid profiles among individuals with sensitive dry skin (SDS), sensitive oily skin (SOS), and healthy skin (HS). Methods: A total of 95 females (18–25 years) were grouped: SDS (n = 32), SOS (n = 31), and HS (n = 32). Stratum corneum water content, oil content, and TEWL were measured. Lipids from sebaceous glands and stratum corneum (tape-stripping) underwent UPLC-QTOF-MS analysis. Differential lipids were identified via OPLS-DA, volcano plots, and LMSD. Results: In terms of physiological indicators, notable disparities emerged in oil content and stratum corneum water content between the SOS and both the HS and the SDS. Sensitive skin, whether dry or oily, displayed a higher transepidermal water loss (TEWL) value than healthy skin, reflecting a declined state of skin barrier function. Regarding the sebum samples, the relative percentages of sphingolipids (SP) and glycerophospholipids (GP) were significantly higher in SDS. Regarding the stratum corneum samples, the percentages of SP in SDS were significantly higher. Conclusions: This study, for the first time, conducted a comprehensive analysis of the skin’s physiological properties, lipidomics of sebum, and stratum corneum lipids among groups with SDS, SOS, and HS. These observations indicate a profound association between skin barrier dysfunction in SDS individuals and, in particular, sphingolipids (SP). Full article

Well-aging strategies include the use of both oral and topic products to nourish the skin from the inside out. A clinical–instrumental study was conducted on 96 Caucasian subjects with mild-to-moderate facial aging to demonstrate the efficacy of probiotic (Lactobacillus plantarum PBS067, Lactobacillus reuteri PBS072, and Lactobacillus rhamnosus LRH020) intake combined with topical ectoin and sodium hyaluronate. The skin sebum content, hydration and moisturization, profilometry (wrinkle depth and skin smoothness), TEWL, elasticity (R0 and R2 parameters), radiance, and pores (size and impurities) were measured after 4 and 8 weeks of product use. These parameters were also integrated through a self-assessment questionnaire to align the measured and the perceived efficacy. One hour after serum application, the wrinkle depth was reduced by 9.2%, while skin hydration increased by 16.6% and skin radiance by 19.1% following cream application. After 4 and 8 weeks of use, both the oral and topical products were shown to respect the skin’s hydrolipid film, effectively improve skin parameters associated with aging, and detoxify the skin from impurities. The mechanism behind these improvements was linked to an enhancement of the skin microbiome. Our findings clearly demonstrate the efficacy of probiotic intake combined with topical ectoin and sodium hyaluronate in enhancing skin health and mitigating the signs of skin aging. Full article

The fruit of berry plants is primarily used for industrial purposes, while the leaves are often regarded as waste. However, these leaves, rich in valuable bioactive compounds, have the potential to serve as raw materials for various industries, including cosmetics. This study compared the content of micro- and macronutrients in the leaves of wild strawberry, blackberry, and blueberry plants. It revealed a high mineral content, particularly in the leaves of wild strawberry and blackberry plants. The plant leaves were also shown to contain vitamin C and exhibited antioxidant activity. The leaves of berry plants were used to obtain micellar extracts, which were then incorporated into the formulation of prototype bath washes. A cosmetic formulation without any extracts served as a reference. In the next step, the prototype cosmetics were evaluated for their chosen properties. The findings showed that incorporating micellar leaf extracts into cosmetic formulations reduced their viscosity and ability to generate long-lasting foam, even in the presence of model sebum. Furthermore, the cosmetics formulated with the extracts exhibited a reduced capacity to emulsify fatty soils compared to the reference formulation, which could present an advantageous option for individuals with sensitive skin. Full article

Background: UPLC-Q-TOF-MS (Ultra-Performance Liquid Chromatography–Quadrupole Time-of-Flight Mass Spectrometry) is a high-precision, high-density technology for lipid analysis. Sensitive skin is a sub-stable condition, and it has been reported that the population of sensitive skin in China is predominantly female. Meanwhile, women with sensitive skin have different physiological parameters as well as lipid compositions at different ages. The Yellow Emperor’s Classic of Internal Medicine states that the number of women’s life cycles is seven, that major changes are manifested every 7 years, and that aging begins at age 35. At present, the correlation between facial lipid composition and aging indicators of sensitive skin in women aged 36–42 and 43–49 years has not been reported. Objective: This study reveals the relationship between key lipid composition of the facial skin and the aging of sensitive skin in women aged 36–42 and 43–49 years. Methods: We used UPLC-Q-TOF-MS technology to study the changes in lipid composition in the sensitive skin of woman aged 36–42 and 43–49 years, using a multi-probe adapter system with different types of skin-testing probes to test physiological parameters. Three types of multivariate data—questionnaires, physiological indicators, and lipid composition—were used together to assess differences in aging in a population of women with sensitive skin at different ages. Results: 1. In the questionnaire part, the T1 group was more susceptible to sunburn and the T2 group was more susceptible to tanning. 2. In the physiological index part, the aging characteristics of facial skin in the T2 group were obvious, with the b-value, as well as the brown area size, being significantly higher than the T1 group, while the TWEL, sebum, R2 value, ITA value, pore count, and concentration of the red area were significantly lower than the T1 group. 3. In the lipid part, the total facial lipid content was higher in the T2 group, with a significantly higher GP lipid, and the 47 VIP lipids obtained were analyzed by ROC curves, narrowing down to six lipids, PS(2-OMe-21:0/0:0), PS(O-18:0/20:5 (5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z,17Z)), PA(O-16:0/20:5 (5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z,17Z)), PS (P-16:0/12:0, PA (O-16:0/22:2 (13Z,16Z)), and PC (19:3 (10Z,13Z,16Z)/0:0)), and all six lipids were higher in the T2 group. 4. In Spearman correlation analysis, PS(O-18:0/20:5(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z,17Z)), PS(P-16:0/12:0), PS(2-OMe-21:0/0:0), PA(O-16:0/20:5(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z,17Z)), and PC(19:3( 10Z,13Z,16Z)/0:0), which are five lipids and skin aging indicators (TWEL, sebum, ITA value, b-value, pore count, concentration of red area, and brown area size) were significantly correlated. Conclusions: Through correlation analysis, it was found that changes in the composition of skin surface lipids (SSLs) in both age groups have an important influence on facial physiological indicators (aging manifestations) and played an important role in furthering the understanding of sensitive skin aging. Therefore, these lipid components also provide theoretical support for the development of cosmetic ingredients that slow down the aging of sensitive skin. Full article

We focused on the effects of radical induction on cell differentiation and sebum production when antioxidants and oxidants were applied to normal hamster sebaceous gland cells. We also examined the relationship between sebum production and the reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging rate in these cells. Eight antioxidants (fullerene, epigallocatechin gallate, α-glucosylrutin, copper (II) gluconate, tannic acid, sodium copper-chlorophyllin, phytic acid, and ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate) and one oxidant (hydrogen peroxide, H₂O₂) were used. The number of differentiated cells was determined by counting the viable cells, the intracellular triglyceride (TG) level was determined by separation and quantification by HPTLC, and the superoxide anion radical scavenging rate, nitric oxide scavenging rate, and H₂O₂ scavenging rate were also investigated. Adding various antioxidants decreased the differentiated cell number and TG content in the hamster sebaceous gland cells. Meanwhile, adding an oxidant (H₂O₂) increased the differentiated cell number and cellular TG. Pretreatment with antioxidants also prevented the oxidants from increasing the differentiated cell number and TG level. A strong correlation between the intracellular TG content and the H₂O₂ scavenging rate was identified. These results indicate that radical generation and scavenging are involved in sebum production in hamster sebaceous gland cells, and that the scavenging rate of H₂O₂ may be particularly important. Full article

Background: Sebum deposition is a vital trait influencing meat quality and production efficiency in Pekin ducks. Providing insights into the genetic basis of fat deposition could help improve breeding strategies aimed at producing high-quality meat ducks. This study aimed to identify the genetic mechanisms and lipid metabolism pathways regulating subcutaneous and intramuscular fat deposition in two Pekin duck strains: Nankou No. 1 and Jingdian. Methods: A total of 72 male ducks, Nankou No. 1 (n = 36) and Jingdian (n = 36), were raised under controlled conditions for 42 days. On days 28, 35, and 42, ducks from each group were selected and slaughtered, and their subcutaneous and liver tissues were collected to analyze lipid enzyme activities. On day 42, additional ducks from each strain were slaughtered and evaluated for carcass performance, as well as intramuscular and sebum yield. Genome-wide association analysis (GWAS) was conducted in the Nankou No. 1 strain. Conclusion: Our results showed statistically significant differences in intramuscular and subcutaneous fat yield between the two strains, with Nankou No. 1 exhibiting a higher yield than Jingdian (p < 0.05). The GWAS results identified 96 significant single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs), associated with sebum deposition. Functional annotation identified ALDH7A1 as a key candidate gene involved in lipid metabolism and fat storage regulation in Pekin ducks, Nankou No. 1 strain. Enzyme activity assays in liver and subcutaneous tissues revealed breed-specific differences in lipid metabolism, aligning with genetic findings. The activities of the lipid enzymes changed over time, suggesting changes in the developmental stages. The results on fat yield and enzymatic activities further align with molecular findings from the GWAS, which identified variations in lipid metabolism pathways. These results highlight genetic markers and biochemical pathways related to fat deposition in Pekin ducks, offering new insights for selective breeding programs aimed at optimizing fat content in meat production. Further research is needed to clarify the specific role of ALDH7A1 in lipid metabolism and its potential to enhance fat deposition traits in poultry. Full article

Skin barrier impairment is becoming increasingly common due to changes in lifestyle and modern living environments. Oily sensitive skin (OSS) is a condition that is characterized by an impaired skin barrier. Thus, examining the differences between OSS and healthy skin will enable a more objective evaluation of the characteristics of OSS and facilitate investigations of potential treatments. Initially, a self-assessment questionnaire was used to identify patients with OSS. Biophysical measurements and LAST scores were used to determine whether skin barrier function was impaired. Epidermal biophysical properties, including skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum content, erythema index (EI), and a* value, were measured with noninvasive instruments. We subsequently devised a noninvasive D-square sampling technique to identify changes in the skin metabolome in conjunction with an untargeted metabolomics analysis with an Orbitrap Q ExactiveTM series mass spectrometer. In the stratum corneum of 47 subjects, 516 skin metabolites were identified. In subjects with OSS, there was an increase in the abundance of 15 metabolites and a decrease in the abundance of 48 metabolites. The participants with OSS were found to have the greatest disruptions in sphingolipid and amino acid metabolism. The results revealed that an impaired skin barrier is present in patients with OSS and offers a molecular target for screening for skin barrier damage. Full article

A randomised open clinical/laboratory study was performed to evaluate the safety and cosmetic efficacy of facial cosmetics for females during the menopausal period. The cosmetics contain active ingredients of meristem cells derived from the medicinal plants Leontopodium alpinum, Buddeleja davidii, Centella asiatica, and Echinacea angustifolia. Recently, the major bioactive molecules of these medicinal plants (leontopodic acid, verbascoside, asiaticoside, and echinacoside, respectively) have been thoroughly evaluated in vitro for molecular pathways and cellular mechanisms and their preventive/curative effects on human skin cells exposed to factors promoting premature skin ageing and cellular senescence. Nevertheless, clinical data on their safety/efficacy to ageing human skin are scarce. This clinical study enrolled 104 Caucasian females in pre-menopause, menopause, or post-menopause periods. They applied cosmetic serums daily for 1 month. Questionnaires and instrumental and biochemical methods were used to assess dermatological/ophthalmological safety and cosmetic efficacy through changes of the skin physiology markers characteristic of ageing/menopause (elasticity, barrier functions, moisture, sebum, ultrasonic properties, and collagen content and structure). Quantitative microbiological tests were carried out for skin microbiota fluctuations. Data showed that the cosmetics were safe, and they shifted the skin physiology parameters to a younger biological age, enhanced collagen synthesis, inhibited lipid peroxidation, and favoured normal microbiota. Full article

Acne-prone skin is a common condition in adult women, and skin imperfections could affect quality of life and self-esteem. This study aimed to investigate the efficacy of a cosmetic combination regimen for face care (a cleanser gel and a serum containing niacinamide, retinol, and alpha hydroxy acids). A total of 20 women with acne-prone mixed or oily skin were enrolled in a prospective 42-day trial. Sebum content, skin radiance, skin profilometry, and evaluation of face area occupied by pores were evaluated at baseline and after 14, 28, and 42 days. In addition, a face lipidomic evaluation was performed at baseline and after 42 days. Finally, self-assessment questionnaires at each visit checkpoint were performed to evaluate efficacy and tolerability of the tested products. All the subjects but one concluded the study. Both products were very well tolerated and 84% of the subjects reported a global clinical improvement. Skin sebum content was significantly (p < 0.05) reduced at each of the evaluation time points (−9.9% at day 14, −19.4% at day 28, and −23.7% at day 42). The tested regimen significantly decreased the gloss parameter (mattifying effect) at day 14, 28, and 42, with a maximum reduction of 7.2% at the end of the study period. The pores area demonstrated a significant reduction at each of the checkpoint evaluations in comparison with baseline. Inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions were significantly reduced by 16% at day 28 and day 42 (p < 0.01). Lipidomic analysis demonstrated that this cosmetic face care regimen induced significant and positive effects in face sebum lipids composition, characterized by a significant increase in ceramides and triacylglycerols and a decrease in fatty acids and oxidized fatty acids. Full article

Environmental pollution is increasingly recognized as a significant contributor to skin and scalp damage. Oral supplementation with a specific blend of four standardized botanical extracts (Rosmarinus officinalis, Lippia citriodora, Olea europaea leaf, and Sophora japonica) has been previously demonstrated to enhance skin health in individuals exposed to high environmental stress. Thus, it might represent a convenient strategy to also improve their scalp health aspect, particularly in subjects with sensitive scalps. To support these effects, a 12-week double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial was performed in 66 women working outdoors in urban areas with high particulate matter (PM) levels and taking 250 mg of the botanical blend daily. Product efficacy was measured as follows: skin antioxidant status (FRAP); skin and scalp moisturization (corneometer), transepidermal water loss (tewameter), and oiliness (sebumeter); skin radiance and colour (spectrophotometer), elasticity and firmness (cutometer) and wrinkle depth (image analysis); and scalp clinical evaluation. Despite constant exposure to increased levels of PM, the tested product positively influenced all monitored parameters compared to both baseline and the placebo-treated group, in as early as 4 weeks. At the end of the study, key improvements included increased skin FRAP (21.9%), moisturization (9.5%), radiance (24.9%) and reduced wrinkle depth (−16.5%), dark spot pigmentation (−26.2%), and skin oiliness (−19.3%). For the scalp, moisturization increased (14.1%), TEWL decreased (−13.8%), and sebum content reduced by 16.2%. Additionally, 71% of subjects with sensitive scalps experienced reduced redness. These findings highlight the extensive benefits of the ingredient, expanding its application beyond conventional skin treatments to also alleviate scalp issues. Full article

This research aimed to evaluate the efficacy of a nanoemulgel (NE) containing Cananga odorata (Ylang-Ylang) oil for managing scalp psoriasis and dandruff through various assessments. The study involved phytochemical screening, characterization, stability testing, in vivo performance evaluation, dermatokinetic analysis, central composite rotatable design (CCRD) optimization, in vitro release profiling, and antioxidant and antimicrobial activity assessment of the NE. The NE exhibited excellent stability and maintained physical parameters over a three-month period. In vivo studies showed no skin irritation, maintenance of skin pH (4.55 to 5.08), and improvement in skin hydration (18.09 to 41.28 AU) and sebum content (26.75 to 5.67 mg/cm²). Dermatokinetic analysis revealed higher skin retention of C. odorata in the NE (epidermis: 71.266 µg/cm², dermis: 60.179 µg/cm²) compared to conventional formulations. CCRD optimization yielded NE formulations with the desired particle size (195.64 nm), entrapment efficiency (85.51%), and zeta potential (−20.59 mV). In vitro release studies indicated sustained release behavior, and antioxidant and antimicrobial properties were observed. This study demonstrates the stability, skin-friendliness, therapeutic benefits, and controlled release properties of the NE. The NE presents a promising option for various topical applications in treating bacterial and fungal diseases, potentially enhancing drug delivery and treatment outcomes in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Full article

The targeted delivery of a hydrophilic Tripeptide-3 to the skin using microemulsions or nanoemulsions for facial oil reduction was the focus of this study. The impact factors affecting oil/water transparent dispersion formation, such as the surfactant system, HLB value, and co-solvent, were identified through the water titration method and pseudoternary phase diagram plots. The interfacial tension between caprylic/capric triglyceride (CCT oil) and water was significantly reduced by the surfactant/co-surfactant combination (S_mix) of Cremophore^® RH40 and a double-tails co-surfactant, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, at an HLB of 13 together with a water-to-co-solvent (PG) ratio of 1:1. A two-level full factorial design of experiment (FFD-DoE) emphasized the independent variables of the HLB value, co-solvent, and CCT oil contents affecting the optimal compositions for micro- or nanoemulsion formation. The low-energy spontaneous emulsification of the optimized combination at a low S_mix content (10%) yielded the translucent oil-in-water Tripeptide-3 nanoemulsions with an internal droplet size of 25.7 ± 1.20 nm, a narrow polydispersity index of 0.237 ± 0.129, and 70.6 ± 0.58% transmittance. The in vitro skin permeation study revealed a significantly higher skin penetration and retention of the Tripeptide-3 nanoemulsions compared to the high surfactant microemulsions and coarse emulsions. Skin irritation and oil control efficacy were evaluated in healthy volunteers before and after product application for 28 days. The obtained nanoemulsions not only decreased sebum production but also enhanced skin moisture levels. In conclusion, the meticulously designed nanoemulsions, incorporating suitable excipients, show a promising delivery system for hydrophilic peptides to control sebum overproduction in oily facial skin. Full article