Search Results (31)

Coastal erosion has become a significant problem in the context of global warming and sea level rise. The combination of these factors which, in some cases, produces sedimentary deficit, is causing flooding problems that affect coastal ecosystems such as dune systems. This problem is of particular concern in the context of oceanic islands, where sandy coasts and dune systems are considered to be of significant value. As terminal areas of encapsulated sedimentary systems, sink areas are subject to the downwind effects of current and historical management and uses developed throughout the entire system. The objective of this research is to analyze the evolution of the Sink Zones (they mainly demonstrate behaviors akin to those exhibited by beaches), in various dune systems in Macaronesia, with a particular focus on the Canary Islands (Maspalomas in Gran Canaria, Jandía in Fuerteventura and La Graciosa Island) and Cabo Verde (Costa Fragata-Ponta Preta in Sal Island). A multiscale spatio-temporal approach was employed, utilizing historical and contemporary orthophotos and topographic data (obtained from LiDAR flights with airplanes and photogrammetric flights with drones) to analyze the evolution of the coastline using DSAS software (version 6.0). In the specific instance of the island of La Graciosa, these data were integrated with detailed fieldwork data on wind conditions and sediment characterization. This methodology was utilized to ascertain the morphodynamical response of the aforementioned Sink Zones. The results obtained from the analyses reveal the presence of erosion processes, thus prompting a comprehensive discussion concerning the management and utilization of these natural systems, in addition to the potential impact of climate change. Full article

Coastal profile models are frequently used for the computation of storm-induced erosion at (nourished) beaches. Attention is focused on new developments and new validation exercises for the detailed process-based CROSMOR-model for the computation of storm-induced morphological changes in sand and gravel coasts. The following new model improvements are studied: (1) improved runup equations based on the available field data; (2) the inclusion of the uniformity coefficient (C_u = d₆₀/d₁₀) of the bed material affecting the settling velocity of the suspended sediment and thus the suspended sediment transport; (3) the inclusion of hard bottom layers, so that the effect of a submerged breakwater on the beach–dune morphology can be assessed; and (4) the determination of adequate model settings for the accretive and erosive conditions of coarse gravel–shingle types of coasts (sediment range of 2 to 40 mm). The improved model has been extensively validated for sand and gravel coasts using the available field data sets. Furthermore, a series of sensitivity computations have been made to study the numerical parameters (time step, grid size and bed-smoothing) and key physical parameters (sediment size, wave height, wave incidence angle, wave asymmetry and wave-induced undertow), conditions affecting the beach morphodynamic processes. Finally, the model has been used to study various alternative methods of reducing beach erosion. Full article

Coastal areas are increasingly vulnerable to erosion, a process that can lead to severe consequences such as flooding and land loss. This study investigates strategies for preventing and mitigating coastal erosion, with a particular focus on nature-based solutions, notably artificial sand nourishment. Artificial nourishment has proven to be an effective method for erosion control. However, its success depends on factors such as the placement location, sediment volume, and frequency of operations. To optimize these interventions, simulations were conducted using both a numerical model (CS-Model) and a physical flume model, based on the same cross-section beach/dune profile, to compare cross-shore nourishment performance across different scenarios. The numerical modeling approach is presented first, including a description of the reference prototype-scale scenario. This is followed by an overview of the physical modeling, detailing the experimental 2D cross-section flume setup and tested scenarios. These scenarios simulate nourishment interventions with variations in beach profile, aiming to assess the influence of water level, berm width, bar volume, and bar geometry. The results from both numerical and physical simulations are presented, focusing on the cross-shore morphological response of the beach profile under wave action, particularly the effects on profile shape, water level, bar volume, and the position and depth of the bar crest. The main conclusion highlights that a wider initial berm leads to greater wave energy dissipation, thereby contributing to the mitigation of dune erosion. Full article

Coastal foredune blowout is a significant indicator of shoreline retreat, activation of backshore dune fields, and land desertification. Among current research on the terminal phase of coastal foredune blowouts, few studies explain blowouts’ morphological and airflow interaction mechanisms in the late stage through comprehensive field surveys and observations. In this study, the coastal blowout on the foredune at Tannanwan Beach, Pingtan Island, China, is investigated to explore the morphodynamics and evolutionary characteristics of blowout morphology. High-resolution RTK GPS technology and two-dimensional ultrasonic anemometers are utilized to repeatedly measure and observe the morphology of late-stage bowl blowouts. The results revealed that the following: (1) During the entire survey period, the bowl blowout is characterized by deepening erosion of the lateral walls and accretion in the deflation basin, with the maximum erosion depth on the east lateral wall reaching up to 3.99 m and the maximum accumulation height occurring in the front half of the deflation basin. (2) The wind direction and the morphology of the bowl blowout significantly impact the airflow characteristics within the blowout, and the airflow distribution within the blowout further affects the development of the blowout morphology. (3) The bowl blowout is in the late stage of its life cycle. Full article

A quantitative understanding of the migration of munitions and canonical objects in the nearshore is needed for the effective management of contaminated sites. Migrations of munitions with a density range of 2000 kg/m³ to 5720 kg/m³ were quantified in a large-scale wave flume. The forcing consisted of six cases of varying wave heights, periods, still water depths, and durations. The cross-shore profile, typical of natural sandy beaches, was sub-divided into swash, surf, and offshore zones. Overall, 2228 migration measurements were recorded with 16% and 84% of the migration observations classified as “motion” (net distance > 0.5 m) and “no motion” (net distance ≤ 0.5 m), respectively. The probability of munitions migration increased with proximity to the shoreline. There was a nearly equal probability of onshore or offshore migration in the swash zone. Migration in the surf zone tended to be offshore-directed (65%), while migration was onshore-dominant (65%) in the offshore zone. Migration in the offshore zone was preferentially onshore due to skewed waves over flat bathymetry. Less dense munitions in the offshore zone may have migrated offshore likely still related to the skewed nature of the wave profile causing transport in both directions through the majority of the wave phase. The largest migration distances occurred in the surf zone likely due to downslope gravity. Migration in the surf and swash zones is a balance between skewed/asymmetric forcing and downslope gravity, with downslope gravity tending to be pronounced provided the forcing is sufficient to initiate motion. An exception was sometimes observed in the swash zone where onshore forcing was sufficient to transport munitions to the seaward side of the berm where they became trapped in a bathymetric depression between the dune and berm. Relating overall migration (Lagrangian) to fixed hydrodynamic measurements (Eulerian) was ineffective. Parameters such as the Shields number, wave skewness, and wave asymmetry estimated from the closest measurement location were insufficient to predict migration. Large scatter in the migration data resulting from competing hydrodynamic, morphodynamic, and munitions response processes makes robust deterministic predictions with flow statistics and dimensionless numbers difficult. Full article

The protection against a storm event provided by nourishment to Costa da Caparica beaches near Lisbon, Portugal, is investigated numerically with a two-dimensional-horizontal morphodynamic model able to generate and propagate the longer infragravity waves. The beach has a groyne field and a multi-typology backshore. The nourishment of 10⁶ m³ of sand was placed at the beach face and backshore. Pre- and post-nourishment topo-bathymetric surveys of the beach, which suffers from chronic erosion, were performed under a monitoring program. The morphodynamics of the pre- and post-nourished beach when exposed to a simulated historically damaging storm event and the post-storm morphologies were compared to evaluate the efficacy of the nourishment. Results indicate that the lower surface level of the beach face and backshore of the pre-nourished beach induces a larger erosion volume. The nourishment prevented the extreme retreat of the shoreline that occurred during the storm in the pre-nourished beach and reduced the storm-induced erosion volume by 20%, thus protecting the beach effectively against the storm. The beach backshore typology (seawall vs. dune) exerts differential influences on the sandy bottom. As a result, multi-typology backshores induce alongshore variability in cross-shore dynamics. The backshore seawalls exposed to direct wave action cause higher erosion volumes and a larger cross-shore extension of the active zone. The most vulnerable alongshore sectors of the beach were identified and related to the mechanisms responsible for the erosion phenomenon. These findings strengthen the importance of sand nourishment for the protection and sustainability of beaches, particularly those with a seawall at the backshore, where storm events cause higher erosion. Full article

Efforts to control the spread of invasive alien species (IAS) in coastal dunes are essential to protect biodiversity and maintain the integrity of the ecosystem. However, the timing and extent of these control measures often do not consider their potential impact on dune morphodynamics. This study investigated how IAS control measures can affect sand dune mobility. Research involved monitoring short-term morphological and vegetation changes using close-range remote sensing along with historical wind data. Findings revealed that changes in vegetation cover significantly impacted dune system evolution, notably increasing sand mobility when IAS vegetation was removed. Considering the seasonal wind regime, dominated by offshore winds in the summer, removing vegetation during this period can promote seaward sediment transport, potentially resulting in sediment loss to the beach. These findings highlight the importance of understanding sediment mobility patterns when planning vegetation control actions within dune restoration strategies. Full article

Natural coastal landforms such as sand dunes and sandy beaches have been proposed as green infrastructure that can reduce climate change risks along coastlines. As such, they can offer a nature-based solution to rising sea levels, increased storminess and wave erosion associated with climate change. However, these proposed advantages are not always based on a sound understanding of coastal sediment system dynamics or tested against field evidence of coastal morphodynamic behavior. This study critically examines the basis of the claim for coastal landforms as green infrastructure, by considering how and in what ways these landforms provide resilience against ongoing climate change along sandy coasts, and proposes a theoretical framework for understanding this relationship. The analysis highlights that natural coastal landforms do not always have properties that provide resilience against future climate change. They can only be considered as offering nature-based solutions against climate change when their pre-existing morphodynamic behavior is fully understood. Thus, not all coastal landforms can be considered as ‘green infrastructure’ and the resilience offered by them against climate change forcing may vary from one place or context to another. This should be considered when using landforms such as sandy beaches and sand dunes as nature-based solutions for coastal management purposes. A 10-step framework is proposed, guiding coastal managers on how such green infrastructure can be used to mitigate climate change risks along coasts. Full article

The morphology of some lithified wind-blown, carbonate dunes in The Bahamas preserves the signature of erosion from paleo-marine processes: wave-induced swash, scarping, and longshore transport. Digital elevation models were used to distinguish between two dune morphotypes—those disconnected versus connected to beach processes. Dune sinuosity and upwind slope were quantified and used to interpret which dunes remained beach-attached and subject to marine erosion and processes versus dunes that became disconnected from the shoreline via inland migration or shoreline regression. Disconnected dunes possess low slopes over stoss surfaces with sinuous planforms mimicking their crestlines. Beach-connected foredunes preserve steep, kilometers-long linear upwind faces, which are interpreted to be signatures of beach-dune morphodynamics. Foredune morphology serves as a proxy for shoreline position during past sea-level high-stands, while the basal elevations of their stoss dune toes provide an upper limit on the beach and adjacent sea level. A growing library of digital topography will allow for this tool to be used to interpret global paleo-shoreline positions through time and space. Full article

Coastal dune restoration projects are increasingly seen as a means of protecting the coast against storms, especially with the use of natural (plants), artificial (geotextile tube cores) and hybrid (plants and geotextile tube) elements. As geotextile tube cores have been found to negatively affect dune and beach natural morphodynamics, rocky cores are thus seen as a potential alternative. We carried out laboratory experiments to compare the performance of dunes with rocky cores, geotextile cores, and both types when coupled with planted vegetation. We investigated these elements in the context of scaled mild, moderate, and intense storm conditions. The results showed that dunes with either type of core lost more sand than dunes without cores. The addition of plants generally reduced the erosion across the various options, but most strongly for rocky cores under mild and moderate storm conditions. We also found that dunes with a high density of plants were best for intense conditions. Overall, the use of rocky dune cores, when coupled with plants, is the most suitable and sustainable alternative option in hybrid engineering projects. Full article

A prototype rapidly deployable, Line-scanning, Low-Cost (LLC) LiDAR system (USD 400 per unit; 2020) was developed to measure coastal hydro-morphodynamic processes. A pilot field study was conducted at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, North Carolina, USA to evaluate the efficacy of the LLC LiDAR in measuring beach morphology, wave runup, and free-surface elevations against proven approaches. A prototype LLC LiDAR collected continuous cross-shore line scans for 25 min of every half hour, at ~7 revolutions/s and ~1.3° angular resolution, at two locations (one day at each location), spanning 12 m (i) on the backshore berm (35 scans; Series B) and (ii) in the swash/inner surf zone (28 scans; Series C). LLC LiDAR time-averaged beach profiles and wave runup estimates were compared with the same quantities derived from the continuously sampling terrestrial LiDAR scanner installed atop the dune at the FRF (DUNE LiDAR). The average root-mean-square difference (RMSD) between 17 (6) time-averaged LLC and DUNE LiDAR beach profiles was 0.045 m (0.031 m) with a standard deviation of 0.004 m (0.002 m) during Series B (Series C). Small-scale (cm) swash zone bed level changes were resolved over 5-min increments with the LLC LiDAR. The RMSD between LLC- and DUNE LiDAR-derived wave runup excursions over two 25-min segments was 0.542 m (cross-shore) and 0.039 m (elevation) during the rising tide and 0.366 m (cross-shore) and 0.032 m (elevation) during the falling tide. Between 72–79% of the LLC LiDAR wave runup data were more accurate than the RMSD values, thereby demonstrating the LLC LiDAR is an effective, low-cost instrument for measuring wave runup and morphodynamic processes. Co-located water levels were measured with a continuously sampling (16 Hz) RBRsolo³ D|wave16 pressure logger during Series C. LLC LiDAR free-surface elevations at the nadir during one high tide (4.5 h) compared well with pressure-derived free-surface elevations (RMSD = 0.024 m, $R^2$ = 0.85). Full article

Beach–dune system morphodynamics is probably one of the most classical coastal engineering problems. While the topic has been studied extensively and literature is plentiful of considerable research contributions, from the authors’ knowledge the subject is still challenging for coastal and environmental sciences. As a part of the Special Issue entitled “Beach–dune system morphodynamics” of this Journal, the present paper reviews traditional issues and design advances building bridges between potential risks and adaptation measures. The benefits of nature-based and hybrid solutions and the need for multidisciplinary studies and approaches to promote sustainable and resilient conservation of the coastal environment are emphasized. Considering the importance and complexity of the subject, this work cannot be fully complete. It is limited to providing a general overview and outlining some important directions intending to serve as a springboard for further research in the field of beach–dune system morphodynamics. Full article

From 18 January 2013 (175.16 m a.s.l.) to 8 September 2020 (177.82 m a.s.l.), Lake Michigan experienced its fastest and highest rise (2.67 m) since 1860, when instrumental measurements began. Extensive foredunes developed since the last high lake levels began eroding in 1997 at fast rates. This study focuses on coastal morphodynamics along the 800 m coast within the central Indiana Dunes State Park on Lake Michigan’s southern shores during this time. Severe foredune erosion, in terms of total horizontal dune loss and total volume of eroded sand, occurred unevenly over the three-year period, both temporally, during a single storm, a season, a year, or three years, and spatially, in the eastern, central, and western study areas. Late autumn storms accounted for most foredune erosion in 2018 and 2019, when foredune scarps retreated up to 4 and 9 m, respectively. Erosion was highest in the updrift eastern study area, where about 8 m³/m of sand was removed in 2018 and about 19 m³/m of sand was removed in 2019. The lack of shelf ice along the shore, rising lake levels, and convective storms that triggered meteotsunamis changed the foredune erosion pattern in 2020. Erosion became most vigorous in the downdrift central (13 m scarp retreat) and western (11 m scarp retreat) study areas. The average volume of eroded sand (21.5 m³/m) was more than double that of 2019 (8 m³/m), and almost quadruple the 2018 volume (5.5 m³/m). After foredune erosion events, the beach rapidly recovered and maintained its width as the shoreline migrated landward. On many occasions following these severe erosion events the dry portion of the beach aggraded and absorbed significant sand amounts removed from the foredunes. The remaining sand was transferred to the surf zone, where it changed the sand bar morphology and led to their coalescence and flattening. Full article

Intertidal bars are common features of sandy beaches in meso- and macro-tidal environments, yet their behaviour under storm impact and subsequent recovery remain poorly documented. Intensive surveys provide valuable information; however, it takes time to process the vast amount of data. This study presents the morphological response of a multibarred macro-tidal beach along the Belgian coast after a severe storm that happened on 8–12 February 2020, and to develop and apply an oPen-source Raster prOcessing Toolbox for invEstigation Coast intertidal bar displacemenT (PROTECT) in Python for automated bar extraction. This toolbox was applied to the digital surface models of pre- and post-storm airborne LiDAR surveys of a multibarred intertidal beach. The PROTECT toolbox is capable of detecting the position and elevation of intertidal bars accurately. The uncertainty in the elevation characteristics of the bars induces an error in the elevation dimension of 0.10 m. Using the toolbox, the results showed that the intertidal bars changed in term of variations in bar number, dimensions and shape across the storm event. Overall, the storm significantly eroded the dune and the upper-beach zone with a sand loss equivalent elevation decrease of −0.14 m. This was followed by a continuous and full recovery after 9 months under fair weather conditions. In contrast, the sand budget in the intertidal zone did not change over the entire monitoring period although the bars showed significant morphological change. Applying the PROTECT toolbox on high-resolution 3D topographic datasets allows to increase the temporal mapping resolution of intertidal bars from long-term (years) to short (storm events) time scales. Similar assessments at locations worldwide would allow the improvement of our knowledge on the morphodynamical role of multibarred beaches and to forecast their evolution, thus contributing to manage future storm response and the progressively accelerating sea level rise. Full article