Island beaches are key natural barriers against typhoons. Artificial nourishment is the main restoration method, yet how its design parameters affect typhoon-driven erosion–deposition remains unclear. Focusing on Xiaoshizui Beach on Wailingding...
This research applied terrestrial LiDAR for laboratory beach evolution experiments to quantify the impact of resolution on topographic mapping and change analyses. The multi-site registration and multi-temporal scanning processes produced high accura...
Typhoons play an important role in beach evolution. The storm surge and large waves caused by typhoons can cause significant changes in beach morphology in a short period of time. The mechanism of beach evolution and profile changes during typhoons i...
Video-monitoring can be exploited as a valuable tool to acquire continuous, high-quality information on the evolution of beach morphology at a low cost and, on such basis, perform beach resilience analyses. This manuscript presents preliminary result...
With the recent development from grey infrastructures to green infrastructures, artificial reefs become more popular in coastal protection projects. To investigate the responses of beach profile evolution to the presence of an artificial reef, a non-...
The evolution of different initial beach profiles towards the same final beach configuration is investigated based on large-scale experimental data. The same wave condition was performed three times, each time starting from a different initial profil...
The morphodynamics of macro-tidal embayed sandy beaches were studied by numerical experiments. The focus was placed on the generation and evolution of morphological features on schematised plane-sloping embayed beaches subjected to both large semi-di...
This study investigates the morphodynamic evolution of an embayed cobble beach located on a mesotidal cliff coast in northern Spain. La Maruca/Pinquel beach was selected for its distinctive geomorphological setting, perched on a well-sorted cobble su...
Beaches, as deposits of unconsolidated material at the land/water interface, are open systems where input and output items constitute the sediment budget. Beach evolution depends on the difference between the input/output to the system; if positive t...
Large marginal sandbanks in tidal rivers experience periodic splitting processes. In this paper, the morphodynamic evolution of Jingjiang Beach, a sandbank on the Yangtze tidal river, has been investigated based on measured data. The results show tha...
When the XBeach model is used to simulate beach profiles, the selection of four sensitive parameters—facua, gammax, eps, and gamma—is crucial. Among these, the two key parameters, facua and gamma, are particularly sensitive. However, the...
Understanding the dynamics of beach–dune systems is crucial for effective coastal management. The cellular automata model DuBeVeg provides a powerful tool for simulating and understanding the bio-geomorphological evolution of these systems, cap...
The study of coastal processes is critical for the protection and development of beach amenities, infrastructure, and properties. Many studies of beach evolution rely on data collected using remote sensing and show that beach evolution can be charact...
The understanding of the beach capability to resist and recover from a disturbance is of paramount importance in coastal engineering. However, few efforts have been devoted to quantifying beach resilience. The present work aims to investigate the sho...
Monitoring storm-induced dramatic beach morphology changes and long-term beach evolution provides crucial data for coastal management. Beach-profile measurement using total station has been conducted along the coast of west-central Florida over the l...
Beach scarps are commonly associated with nourishment. Large and persistent beach scarps not only affect the performance of beach nourishment, but also are safety hazards to tourists. In this study, the morphological evolution of beach scarps was exa...
Artificial reefs are being implemented around the world for their multi-functions including coastal protection and environmental improvement. To better understand the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic roles of an artificial reef (AR) in beach protection...
The coastal area at Riccione, in the southern Emilia-Romagna littoral region, is exposed to erosive processes, which are expected to be enhanced by climate change. The beach, mostly composed of fine sand, is maintained through various defense strateg...
This study presents a detailed analysis of the morphological evolution of beaches in the Bocagrande sector of Cartagena de Indias, Colombia, over more than a decade, based on periodic monitoring of six beach profiles. The beaches in this area are in...
This paper presents the history and evolution of the different projects carried out from 1999 to 2008 at Cavo beach in the Elba Island, Italy. The village of Cavo almost completely lost its beach in the 1970s due to the reduction of sedimentary input...
This paper presents the observed morphological evolution of a multilevel beach cusp system in Long Strand, Co. Cork, Ireland. The surveys were carried out with an Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (UAV) system between March and September 2019. From this site,...
Sandbars are commonly observed on sandy coasts, and they can prevent erosion on the beach face. Better prediction of sandbar evolution is necessary for coastal management and beach nourishment. In this study, a process-based morphodynamic model is us...
Beach nourishment represents a type of coastal defense intervention, keeping the beach as a natural coastal defense system. Altering the cross-shore profile geometry, due to the introduction of new sediments, induces a non-equilibrium situation regar...
The post-storm beach recovery process exhibits variability. Understanding its mechanisms is crucial for advancing the study of beach morphodynamics. This study involved a 25-day continuous field observation on Dongdao Beach, Hailing Island, Yangjiang...
Shoreline evolution and seabed morphology changes depend on coastal geomorphology as well as hydrodynamics of the nearshore region. Τhis study investigates the morphological evolution of the northernmost headland of Rhodes Island, Greece, using a...
This study examines the evolution of wave shapes as they propagate over a beach of varying morphology, information essential for understanding coastal dynamics and supporting coastal management. Our objective was to analyze the relationship between w...
Several remotely sensed images, acquired by different sensors on satellite, airplane, and drone, were used to trace the beach ridges pattern present on the delta of the River Ombrone. A more detailed map of these morphologies, than those present in t...
The Oum Er-Rbia estuary is located on the Atlantic littoral of Morocco. It undergoes severe clogging due to the sand deposition in its outlet. The current study examined the indicators of the morphodynamic evolution in the littoral system including t...
In this paper, coastal dune data are collected at Truc Vert, SW France, using photogrammetry via Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (UAVs). A low-cost GoPro-equipped DJI Phantom 2 quadcopter and a 20 MPix camera-equipped DJI Phantom 4 Pro quadcopter UAVs were...
An equilibrium beach profile model is developed and coupled with a parametric hydrodynamic model to provide feedback between the evolving morphology and the hydrodynamics. The model is compared to laboratory beach profiles evolving toward equilibrium...
Along many Mediterranean coasts, the detached seagrass material of Posidonia oceanica creates seagrass berms that control the structure and morphodynamics of sandy beaches. Here, we show how Terrestrial Laser Scanner remote sensing data allows analyz...
This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking...
Intertidal bars are naturally occurring morphological features along the waterline of sandy beaches. Present quantitative knowledge on intertidal bar behavior is limited, due to the scarcity of data resources and the limitations of traditional survey...
Beachrock is a type of coastal carbonate sedimentary rock developed in the sandy beach intertidal zone, widely distributed along the beach front, and the loss of beach sediment is the main cause of beachrock exposure. Based on the analysis of measure...
In the present paper, after a sensitivity analysis, the calibration and verification of a novel morphodynamic model have been conducted based on a high-quality field experiment data base. The morphodynamic model includes a general formula to predict...
The North Atlantic coast of Morocco is characterised by a flat rocky outcrop in the south (Asilah Beach) and a sandy beach free of rocky outcrops in the north (Charf el-Akab). These natural beaches were monitored for a period of two years (April 2005...
This study addresses the longevity of beach nourishment in a high-energy coastal environment. It focuses on a site along the Northern Portuguese Atlantic coast, characterized by intense littoral drift, in the order of 1 million m3 and N–S orien...
Nourishment grain size is a key parameter in beach nourishment projects, directly determining beach stability under extreme hydrodynamic environments. Taking Xiaoshizui Beach on Wailingding Island as the study area, this paper establishes a coupled t...
Understanding the role of beach morphology in controlling wave overtopping volume will further minimise uncertainties in flood risk assessments at coastal locations defended by engineered structures worldwide. XBeach is used to model wave overtopping...
Coastal communities commonly rely upon foredunes as the first line of defense against sea-level rise and storms, thus requiring management guidance to optimize their protective services. Here, we use the AeoLiS model to simulate wind-driven accretion...
Although coastal morphology results essentially from underwater sediment transports, the evolution of underwater beach profiles along the diverse coastlines of the world is still poorly documented. Bathymetry inversion from shore-based video cameras...
Human interventions have profoundly altered the depositional settings and morphodynamic evolution of beaches. Such environmental alterations also affect the execution of scientific studies because natural sedimentary and morphological signals are oft...
A field experiment was conducted at a tropical microtidal intermediate sandy beach with a low tide terrace (Nha Trang, Vietnam) to investigate the short-term swash-zone hydrodynamics and morphodynamics under variable wave conditions. Continuous 2D Li...
Inlet-driven processes are capable of modifying the adjacent shoreline. However, few studies have attempted to understand how these changes affect coastal dunes. The present study aims to understand how shoreline changes induced by shoal attachment a...
Beaches are important geomorphic units shaped by land–sea interactions. Changes in their profiles and surface sediments are directly influenced by both natural processes and human activities. This study is based on continuous topographic and se...
Coastal evolution occurs on a wide range of time-scales, from storms, seasonal and inter-annual time-scales to longer-term adaptation to changing environmental conditions. Measuring campaigns typically either measure morphological evolution on a shor...
Thirty one percent (31%) of the world’s coastline consists of sandy beaches and dunes that form a natural defense protecting the hinterland from flooding. A common measure to mitigate erosion along sandy beaches is the implementation of sand no...
The present study focuses on the long-term multi-year evolution of the shoreline position of the Nha Trang sandy beach. To this end an empirical model which is a combination of longshore and cross-shore models, is used. The Nha Trang beach morphology...
The results of this study have allowed verification that longshore sediment transport along the coast of Napoli Gulf (southern Italy) takes place from Northwest to Southeast. The current analysis describes the results of an integrated sedimentologica...
Intertidal bars are common features of sandy beaches in meso- and macro-tidal environments, yet their behaviour under storm impact and subsequent recovery remain poorly documented. Intensive surveys provide valuable information; however, it takes tim...
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