Search Results (81)

The post-storm beach recovery process exhibits variability. Understanding its mechanisms is crucial for advancing the study of beach morphodynamics. This study involved a 25-day continuous field observation on Dongdao Beach, Hailing Island, Yangjiang City, Guangdong Province, following the passage of Typhoon Cempaka. The evolution of beach morphology and the spatiotemporal variations in erosion and accretion were analyzed to explore the key influencing factors, response mechanisms, and recovery modes during the short-term recovery process. The post-storm evolution of beach profile structures is predominantly influenced by major geomorphic units such as berms and sandbars, whereas localized responses are characterized by adjustments of fine-scale features like micro-troughs. The width of the supratidal zone and the position of the berm crest continuously fluctuate, while the slope of the intertidal zone increases or decreases as the berm crest migrates landward or seaward. The erosion–accretion process was complex and occurred in distinct stages, with marked spatial heterogeneity. In some areas, the beach experienced multiple short-term cycles of alternating erosion and accretion. Beach slope plays a significant role in short-term recovery. Three types of response relationships between beach unit-width volume and changes in slope were observed, with flatter beaches being more sensitive to changes in unit-width volume. Based on this, four recovery modes in the post-storm short-term recovery process were explored from the perspective of beach slope. This study provides theoretical support for managing beaches after storms and recommends the implementation of zoned and phased management strategies based on different recovery modes to enhance the efficiency and resilience of coastal recovery. Full article

Understanding the evolution of the sandbar–trough system under regular wave conditions is essential for revealing the dynamic responses of coastal morphology in non-extreme environments and provides a scientific basis for long-term beach stability assessments and coastal erosion management. This study conducted a three-day field observation on Ten-Mile Silver Beach, Hailing Island, China, to investigate the coupling relationships between hydrodynamic factors and bed elevation changes during the morphological evolution of the sandbar–trough system. The results indicate that gravity wave (>0.04 Hz) energy is a key driver of bed elevation changes. During the erosion phase, gravity wave energy increases, and the peak wave energy frequency shifts toward lower frequencies, accompanied by a contraction of low-frequency energy and an expansion of high-frequency energy. In contrast, the accretion phase exhibits the opposite pattern. As the sandbar–trough system developed, the explanatory power of hydrodynamic factors on bed elevation decreased by 41% in the trough region and increased by 3.7% in the sandbar region, indicating a spatially differentiated pattern characterized by weakened forcing in the trough and enhanced response over the sandbar. During the geomorphic adjustment process, the trough area exhibited increased sensitivity, with gravity wave energy, near-infragravity wave (0.01–0.04 Hz) energy, far-infragravity wave (0.004–0.01 Hz) energy, mean wave height, and significant wave steepness reversing their influence directions on bed elevation. In contrast, the sandbar area maintained a more stable hydrodynamic control mechanism, with only the influence pattern of significant wave steepness undergoing a shift. This study enhances the understanding of geomorphology–hydrodynamics coupling within nearshore sandbar–trough systems and provides theoretical insights and technical support for monitoring and evaluating coastal erosion and accretion processes under normal wave conditions. Full article

Understanding long-term coastal evolution requires historical data, yet accessing reliable information becomes increasingly challenging for extended periods. While vertical aerial imagery has been extensively used in coastal studies since the mid-20th century, and satellite-derived shoreline measurements are now revolutionizing shoreline change studies, ground-based images, such as historical photographs and picture postcards, provide an alternative source of shoreline data for earlier periods when other datasets are scarce. Despite their frequent use for documenting qualitative morphological changes, these valuable historical data sources have rarely supported quantitative assessments of coastal evolution. This study demonstrates the potential of historical ground-oblique images for quantitatively assessing shoreline position and long-term change. Using Conceição-Duquesa Beach (Cascais, Portugal) as a case study, we analyze shoreline evolution over 92 years by applying a novel methodology to historical photographs and postcards. The approach combines image registration, shoreline detection, coordinate transformation, and rectification while accounting for positional uncertainty. Results reveal a significant counterclockwise rotation of the shoreline between the 20th and 21st centuries, exceeding estimated uncertainty thresholds. This study highlights the feasibility of using historical ground-based imagery to reconstruct shoreline positions and quantify long-term coastal change. The methodology is straightforward, adaptable, and offers a promising avenue for extending the temporal range of shoreline datasets, advancing our understanding of coastal evolution. Full article

When the XBeach model is used to simulate beach profiles, the selection of four sensitive parameters—facua, gammax, eps, and gamma—is crucial. Among these, the two key parameters, facua and gamma, are particularly sensitive. However, the XBeach model does not specify the exact choice of these four key parameters, offering only a broad range for each one. In this paper, we investigate the applicability of tuning these four parameters within the XBeach model. We employ Generalized Likelihood Uncertainty Estimation (GLUE) to optimize the model settings. The Brier Skill Score (BSS) for each parameter combination is calculated to quantify the likelihood probability distribution of each parameter. The optimal parameter set (facua = 0.20, gamma = 0.50) was ultimately determined. Here, the facua parameter represents the degree of influence of wave skewness and asymmetry on the direction of sediment transport, while the gamma parameter represents the equivalent random wave in the wave dissipation model and is used to calculate the probability of wave breaking. Six profiles of the southern beach on Chudao Island are selected to validate the results, establishing the XBeach model based on profile measurement data before and after Typhoon “Lekima”. The results indicate that after parameter optimization, the simulation accuracy of XBeach is significantly improved, with the BSS increasing from 0.3 and 0.17 to 0.68 and 0.79 in P1 and P6 profiles, respectively. This paper provides a recommended range for parameter values for future research. Full article

The Málaga coast, in the south of Spain, is a densely populated tourist destination where ports, marinas and coastal protection structures of various typologies (e.g., groins, breakwaters, revetments) and shapes (e.g., “Y”, “L”, etc., shaped groins) have been emplaced. Such structures have modified the long- and cross-shore sediment transport and produced changes in beach morphology and the evolution of nearby areas. To characterize the changes related to shore-normal structures, beach erosion/accretion areas close to coastal anthropic structures were measured using a sequence of aerial orthophotos between 1956 and 2019, and the potential littoral sediment transport for the two main littoral transport directions was determined by means of the CMS (Coastal Modeling System). Available data on wave propagation and coastal sediment transport reflect the complex dynamics of the study area, often characterized by the coexistence of opposing longshore transport directions. Accretion was observed on both sides of ports in all studied periods and groins and groups of groins presented mixed results that reflect the heterogeneity of the study area; in certain sectors where the wave regime is bidirectional, changes in the shoreline trend were observed during the study period. The study cases described in this paper emphasize the difficulties in finding clear spatial and temporal trends in the artificially induced erosion/accretion patterns recorded along a heavily modified shoreline. Full article

Nearshore sandbars are dynamic features that characterize shallow morphobathymetry and vary over a wide range of geometries and temporal lifespans. Nearshore sandbars influence beach geometry by altering the energy of incoming waves; thus, monitoring the evolution of sandbars is a fundamental approach in effective coastal planning. Due to several natural and technical limitations related to shallow seafloor mapping, there is a significant gap in the availability of high-resolution, shallow bathymetric data for monitoring the dynamic behaviour of nearshore sandbars effectively. This study introduces a novel image-processing technique that produces time series of pseudo-bathymetric data by utilizing multi-temporal (monthly) drone imagery, and it provides an assessment of local morphodynamics at a sandy beach in the southeast Mediterranean. The technique is called standardized-ratio bathymetric index (SRBI), and it transforms natural-colour drone imagery to pseudo-bathymetric data by applying an empirical formula used for satellite-derived bathymetry. This technique correlates well with laser altimetry depth measurements; however, it does not require in situ depth data for implementation. The resulting pseudo-bathymetric data allows for extracting cross-shore profiles and delineating the sandbar crest with 4 m horizontal accuracy. Stacking of temporal profiles allowed for the quantification of the sandbar’s crest and trough changes at different alongshore sections. The main findings suggest that the nearshore crescentic sandbar at Episkopi Beach (north Crete) shows strong seasonality regarding net offshore migration that is promoted by enhanced wave action during winter months. In addition, the crescentic sandbar is susceptible to morphology arrestment during prolonged weeks of low wave action. The average migration rate during winter is 10 m.month⁻¹, with some sections exhibiting a maximum of 60 m.month⁻¹. This study (a) offers a novel remote-sensing approach, suitable for nearshore seafloor monitoring with low computational complexity, (b) reveals sandbar geometry and temporal change in superior detail compared to other observational methods, and (c) advances knowledge about nearshore sandbar monitoring in the Mediterranean region. Full article

Barrier change is a complex process of evolution of coastal topography, which is related to the interaction of driving forces such as waves, tides and sea level rise (SLR) with beaches. The Waisanding Barrier (WSDB) in Taiwan has suffered from continuous beach erosion in recent decades. Some short-term studies have been carried out to understand the characteristics of the barrier change to provide a reference for future barrier protection. In this paper, the digital elevation model (DEM) measured by LiDAR (Light Detection and Ranging), over nearly two decades was used to analyze the morphological changes, the land area and volume. The changes in the morphology, including the whole shoreline, duneline height, width of forebeach and backbarrier, are investigated. The WSDB’s land area and land volume were analyzed to show a continuous decrease by a rate of −0.418 × 10⁶ m²/year and −3.96 × 10⁵ m³/year, respectively. The corresponding average land volume (LV) decrease in elevation can be estimated to be −0.0286 m/year. The changes in these features are discussed and relate to land subsidence, sea level rise and large waves induced by typhoons passing near WSDB. Full article

This study investigated the shoreline evolution of the Tuscany coast (Italy) from 1878–1883 to 2019. The 205 km sandy coastline, divided into 821 sectors, each one 250 m long, was analyzed to understand how human activities have altered this once-pristine coast. Sub-period analyses highlighted the impacts, both positive and negative, of various shore-protection projects. Initially, regional beaches were undeveloped and accreting, except for a few river deltas where alternating phases of erosion and accretion were observed. Coastal erosion began at deltas’ areas due to the reduction in sediment inputs and, at other areas, enhanced by the development of human settlements and tourism activities. This triggered the construction of protection structures that shifted erosion processes downdrift, a process that induced the downdrift extension of the structures (according to the “domino” effect), determining the transformation of a completely natural and resilient environment into a largely rigid one. Beach nourishment projects, mostly using inland quarries, added about 1 million cubic meters of sediment from the 1980s to 2019. Currently, 57.8% of beaches are larger than in the 1880s, 9.4% did not change and 32.8% are narrower. Overall, the Tuscan coast gained 6.5 km² of beach surface with an average shoreline advancement of 32 m. Recent trends (2005–2019) show that 37.7% of the coast is eroding, 21.1% is stable, and 41.2% is accreting, with a total surface area increase of about 200,000 m². The beach surface area is still increasing despite the existing reduced sediment input due to the limited sediment loss resulting from the presence of morphological cells enclosed by very prominent headlands and the absence of submarine canyons that would otherwise direct sediments to the continental shelf. Full article

This study examines the evolution of wave shapes as they propagate over a beach of varying morphology, information essential for understanding coastal dynamics and supporting coastal management. Our objective was to analyze the relationship between wave shape parameters and the local slope of the beach. To achieve this, we used data from pressure sensors and topographic measurements to evaluate the shape of waves on a cross-shore profile of a low-tide terrace beach. The analysis of wave conditions revealed a pronounced modulation of the tidal signal, which is augmented during storm events. Our findings demonstrate that the asymmetry and skewness parameters are more pronounced in the reflective zone of the beach. Considering these results, it can be concluded that the non-linearity of waves is significantly affected by the beach slope. The parameterization method employed in this study effectively incorporates this factor, offering improved accuracy in comparison to the existing approaches. Full article

This study conducts a morphodynamic analysis of beaches located in the northern sector of the Gulf of Roses (NW Mediterranean, Spain). The primary objective is to investigate mid-short (2004–2020) term spatial and temporal variations in shoreline position and sedimentological behaviour. The study area covers the northern part of the gulf, spanning 9.86 km, and includes both natural beaches and heavily anthropized ones. The following GIS methodologies were employed to study the variations in the coastline: QGIS for areas and DSAS-ArcGIS for transects, quantifying coastal changes from 2004 to 2020. Sediment samples were collected from both the dry beach and swash areas for each profile. The results reveal minor discrepancies in shoreline evolution data, depending on the method used (transects or areas). Profile-based analysis shows an average annual rate of −0.11 m·y⁻¹ (ranging between 0.53 and −0.55 m·y⁻¹), while areal-based results (2004–2020) indicate a total loss of −20,810 m² (−1300 m²·y⁻¹). Sediment grain size decreases northward (from 745 to 264 µm in the swash zone). Changes in shoreline position and grain size illustrate the impact of various anthropogenic structures on morphodynamic behaviour. These structures preferentially deposit specific grain sizes and impede sediment transport, which will cause an advance in the position of the shoreline and sediment grain sizes upstream and a reverse process downstream. This study underscores the influence of coastal anthropization on beach morphology and sedimentology, generating distinct morphodynamic behaviour. Full article

Beachrock is a type of coastal carbonate sedimentary rock developed in the sandy beach intertidal zone, widely distributed along the beach front, and the loss of beach sediment is the main cause of beachrock exposure. Based on the analysis of measured data of different exposure forms of beachrocks in profiles, this paper analyzes the main features and influences of non-dynamic factors, such as the exposure position and morphology, of beachrocks on the dynamic geomorphic processes of beaches. Studies have shown that (1) changes between beach energy dissipation bodies are significant features of coastal geomorphic processes under the influence of beachrocks. The first spatial mode of EOF analysis shows that the erosion position of beach-rock-exposed profiles is mainly concentrated in the protected and real sections of beachrock, and the first temporal mode indicates that the exposure of beachrock results in a lagged response of its profile to dynamic environmental changes. (2) The differences in the exposure forms of beachrocks determine the sand-holding space of the beach, and the differences in the lateral exposure positions of beachrocks determine the main areas where erosion occurs on the profile. Meanwhile, the geomorphic processes of their profiles show different degrees of feedback, and such geomorphic phenomena can serve as reference indicators for the stage-wise evolution process influenced by beachrocks. Full article

Throughout the Caribbean region, coastal areas are of vital importance for national incomes from the tourism industry. However, accelerated coastal development has impacted the coastal ecosystems, including the beaches, and deterioration of the shore results from cumulative impacts on both marine and coastal ecosystems. It is essential to identify the areas that need special attention for targeted management plans and actions, especially in areas with high anthropogenic pressure. This research proposes an integrated assessment of the conservation state of shore and coastal ecosystems in the Puerto Morelos National Reef Park (PNAPM) in the Mexican Caribbean, through the spatial monitoring of key parameters. A Geographic Information System (GIS) was employed to analyze the land use on the shore, foredune condition, morphological characteristics of the beaches, shoreline evolution, and the condition of coral reefs and seagrass meadows. The analysis identified the most critical areas in relation to shore deterioration and priority areas for the preservation of ecosystems. The spatial data obtained for the PNAPM can serve as a basis for ongoing shore monitoring, and targeted management actions through the designation of areas that require either preservation or ecosystem restoration practices. This methodology can be applied to other reef systems in the Caribbean. Full article

Efforts to control the spread of invasive alien species (IAS) in coastal dunes are essential to protect biodiversity and maintain the integrity of the ecosystem. However, the timing and extent of these control measures often do not consider their potential impact on dune morphodynamics. This study investigated how IAS control measures can affect sand dune mobility. Research involved monitoring short-term morphological and vegetation changes using close-range remote sensing along with historical wind data. Findings revealed that changes in vegetation cover significantly impacted dune system evolution, notably increasing sand mobility when IAS vegetation was removed. Considering the seasonal wind regime, dominated by offshore winds in the summer, removing vegetation during this period can promote seaward sediment transport, potentially resulting in sediment loss to the beach. These findings highlight the importance of understanding sediment mobility patterns when planning vegetation control actions within dune restoration strategies. Full article

Coastal communities commonly rely upon foredunes as the first line of defense against sea-level rise and storms, thus requiring management guidance to optimize their protective services. Here, we use the AeoLiS model to simulate wind-driven accretion and wave-driven erosion patterns on foredunes with different morphologies and ecological properties under modern-day conditions. Additional sets of model runs mimic potential future climate changes to inform how both morphological and ecological properties may have differing contributions to net dune changes under evolving environmental forcing. This exploratory study, applied to represent the morphological, environmental, and ecological conditions of the northern Outer Banks, North Carolina, USA, finds that dunes experiencing minimal wave collision have similar net volumetric growth rates regardless of beach morphology, though the location and density of vegetation influence sediment deposition patterns across the dune profile. The model indicates that high-density, uniform planting strategies trap sediment close to the dune toe, whereas low-density plantings may allow for accretion across a broader extent of the dune face. The initial beach and dune shape generally plays a larger role in annual-scale dune evolution than vegetation cover. For steeper beach slopes and/or low dune toe elevations, the model generally predicts wave-driven dune erosion at the annual scale. Full article

This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking and non-breaking waves. Regarding sediment transport, the model builds on previous research by the authors and incorporates the latest update of a well-founded sediment transport formula. The wave and morphology evolution model is validated against two sets of experiments on beach profile change and is afterwards used to test the performance of a widely-adopted erosion/accretion criterion. The innovation of this work is the validation of a new Boussinesq-type morphology model under both erosive and accretive conditions at the foreshore (accretion is rarely examined in similar studies), which the model reproduces very well without modification of the empirical coefficients of the sediment transport formula used; furthermore, the model confirms the empirical erosion/accretion criterion even for conditions beyond the ones it was developed for and without imposing any model constraints. The presented set of applications highlights model capabilities in simulating swash morphodynamics, as well as its suitability for coastal erosion mitigation and beach restoration design Full article