Search Results (92)

Porphyra-334 (PPR-334) is one of the species of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), known as biological UV protection ingredients. In this study, we developed a large-scale purification process to extract PPR-334 from Saccharomyces cerevisiae and confirmed the previously identified efficacy of PPR-334, while also demonstrating its efficacy under UV-independent conditions. PPR-334 scavenged reactivity oxygen species (ROS) and increased catalase (CAT) gene expression in human epidermal keratinocyte cells (HEKa). In both HEKa and normal human dermal fibroblast cells (NHDF), PPR-334 suppressed the gene expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). NHDF treated with PPR-334 showed increased collagen expression and proliferation, while advanced glycation end-product (AGE) production was decreased. It was confirmed that the efficacy in vitro was also reproduced in human artificial skin tissue models. Above all, the antioxidant efficacy mechanism of PPR-334 through nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (NRF2) and Caspase-9 signals was identified. It was determined that the proliferation efficacy of PPR-334 was due to factors related to the cell cycle. These results demonstrate the anti-aging efficacy of PPR-334 independent of UV irradiation, while enhancing the UV-blocking and antioxidant effects. Thus, we suggest the potential of PPR-334 as a sunscreen agent as well as a dual- or multifunctional material. Full article

In order to improve the utilization of alkali lignin (AL) as an effective component for ultraviolet (UV) shielding, demethylation and acetylation modification were carried out to improve the UV absorption performance of lignin. Then, lignin-based sunscreens were successfully prepared by mixing the modified lignin and commercial cream without UV shielding ingredients. The modified alkali lignin was comprehensively characterized in terms of its molecular weight, functional groups and structural properties by GPC, UV spectroscopy and ³¹P NMR. The results showed that the Mw of all three lignin feedstocks (AL, AL_MeOH and AL_Acetone) was decreased with prolonged demethylation time. Compared to the original feedstock, demethylated AL had a darker color and improved UV absorption performance due to the increased phenolic hydroxyl content (approximately 4.35 mmol/g). ³¹P-NMR spectra showed that the guaiacyl phenolic hydroxyl content decreased rapidly after acetylation, causing the sample color to become lighter. Among all lignin-based sunscreens, DAL_Acetone achieved the highest SPF value of 11.23, a 69.4% increase over its pre-reaction level and a 7.58-fold enhancement compared to the original lignin. In summary, this study opens a promising avenue for repurposing industrial lignin as a sustainable biomaterial in high-value sectors like UV-blocking agents and cosmetic formulations. Full article

Skin is constantly exposed to UV radiation. While topical sunscreens are the main preventative measure, oral photoprotective agents are emerging as promising systemic adjuncts, offering uniform, continuous protection. This study presents the results of two clinical trials designed to evaluate the efficacy of supplementation with a standardized coriander (Coriandrum sativum L.) seed oil (CSO) in mitigating UV-induced skin damage, in comparison with a placebo. The first trial investigated the effects of CSO supplementation on women with reactive skin, assessing UVA+B-induced skin erythema and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) release. The second trial included women of all skin types and, in addition to the outcomes mentioned above, examined UVA-induced lipoperoxidation. Measurements were taken before and after 56 days of supplementation. CSO supplementation led to a significant reduction in UV-induced skin erythema and associated TNF-α levels in both cohorts, with decreases of 11.8% and 24.1% in the reactive skin group and 18.1% and 18.7% in the cohort with all skin types, respectively. In women of all skin types, UV-induced skin lipoperoxidation was reduced by 31.9% at 4 h and by 69.9% at 24 h post-exposure. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study reporting the photoprotective efficacy of CSO. This finding is attributed to CSO’s high petroselinic acid content and its known anti-inflammatory properties. Full article

The cosmetic industry is constantly evolving to create new formulations that offer controlled and specific release of active ingredients, as well as greater penetration, duration and stability of the resulting products. To fulfil all these objectives, the use of cyclodextrins in different cosmetic formulations is being considered. CDs are cyclic oligosaccharides with a hydrophilic outer surface and an inner cavity able to encapsulate hydrophobic molecules. This property can be used to form complexes with hydrophobic molecules and solubilise them in aqueous matrices, such as creams or gels. This review analyses the main advantages that these agents provide in cosmetic products, such as protection, administration and controlled release of bioactive ingredients, improved water solubility, reduced fragrance volatility, masking off unpleasant odours, modification of the physicochemical properties of formulations or prevention of ingredient side effects, among others. Formulations of lotions, sunscreens, deodorants, gels or perfumes containing CDs are already on the market, and new ones are being developed. Moreover, the regulations concerning their use, the types of cyclodextrins allowed and the mechanism required to produce CD-guest inclusion complexes are reviewed. Likewise, the use of CDs alone or encapsulating other compounds makes them an extremely versatile nanomaterial for dermofacial and cosmetic formulations. Full article

Valorization of Phoenix dactylifera L. (date) seeds, an abundant agro-industrial byproduct, offer a sustainable approach to developing multifunctional ingredients for dermocosmetic photoprotection. Rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and lipophilic antioxidants, date seed extracts and oils demonstrate promising UV-absorbing, anti-inflammatory, and free-radical-scavenging properties. Recent in vitro, ex vivo, and preclinical studies underscore their potential as bioactive agents in sunscreen formulations, supporting both skin barrier integrity and oxidative stress mitigation, although clinical validation is still required. This review consolidates current knowledge on the phytochemical profile and biological efficacy of date seed derivatives, with emphasis on their integration into advanced delivery systems such as nanocarriers, Pickering emulsions, and cyclodextrin complexes to enhance photostability, skin permeability, and esthetic acceptability. Safety aspects, including allergenicity, phototoxicity, and regulatory gaps, are critically examined alongside environmental and ethical advantages, including biodegradability and vegan suitability. The findings advocate for the inclusion of Phoenix dactylifera L. seed actives in next-generation dermocosmetic sunscreens that align with circular bioeconomy principles, consumer demand for “reef-safe” products, and evolving international regulations. Further clinical validation is encouraged to fully translate these botanically derived agents into effective and ethically sound sun care innovations. Full article

Exposure to sunlight, whose main component is UV radiation (UVR), leads to various skin damage such as sunburns, premature aging, or more severe issues such as increased symptoms of autoimmune disease and skin cancer. Therefore, there is a growing interest in developing improved photoprotective agents that can protect skin from sunlight incidence and antioxidants that counteract the oxidative stress caused by it. Lichens are a source of such agents since they adapt to extreme environments including those with high UVR by biosynthesizing metabolites with those properties. In this study, brialmontin 2 (1), physciosporin (2), and pseudocyphellarin A (3) were isolated for the first time from the lichen Pseudocyphellaria berberina (G. Forst.) D. J. Galloway & P. James, along with calycin (4) and 22-hydroxystictan-3-one (5). Their structural characterization was carried out by spectroscopy (¹H and ¹³C NMR). Sun protection factor (SPF) along with critical wavelength (λ_crit), a UVA/UVB ratio (UVA/UVB-r) of one to five, and acetone extract (AE) were evaluated spectrophotometrically as a measure of their UVB and UVA photoprotective capacities, respectively. Additionally, their antioxidant activity was measured by scavenging DPPH free radicals (RSA). Compounds 2, 4, and AE showed “medium” UVB photoprotective capacities (with SPFs between 15 and 30). Additionally, 4 and AE presented “maximum” UVA photoprotective capacities (λ_crit > 370 nm and UVA/UVB-r > 0.8), whereas this activity was “good” for 2 and 3 (λ_crit 350 to 370 nm and UVA/UVB-r 0.4 to 0.6), and “moderate” for 1 (λ_crit 335 to 350 nm and UVA/UVB-r 0.2 to 0.4). All compounds and AE showed antioxidant activity, standing out were AE and 4 with activity comparable to the controls (ca. 95 and 81 RSA %, respectively, at 1000 ppm). AE and 4 are dual agents with photoprotective (UVB-UVA) and antioxidant capacities that could help prevent skin damage associated with sunlight. In silico assays suggest that 4 spontaneously diffuses into the stratum corneum with limited absorption through the skin. Additionally, 4 lacks potential toxicity to Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (showing viability ca. 70% at 100 ppm); therefore, it is a candidate for the development of sunscreen formulations. Full article

This study employed a sol–gel route to fabricate mesoporous silica (MS) carriers capable of simultaneously encapsulating two widely utilized UV absorbers—benzophenone-3 (BP-3) and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC)—resulting in the composite sunscreen agent S4M1B1. Comprehensive characterization using FTIR, TGA, UV–vis spectroscopy, DSC, SEM, and standard photoprotective indices (SPF and UVA-PF) confirmed the successful immobilization of both active ingredients within the MS porous structure, achieving a notably high loading of up to 72 wt%. Sunscreen formulations incorporating the encapsulated composite demonstrated superior photoprotective performance, exhibiting SPF and UVA-PF values approximately 40% higher than equivalent physical mixtures of the same actives. Additionally, the MS encapsulation significantly enhanced the photostability of BP-3 and OMC, effectively maintaining their UV-protective efficacy after prolonged simulated solar exposure. Franz glass diffusion cell assays further revealed that encapsulation markedly reduced the in vitro skin permeation of both BP-3 and OMC by over 55%, substantially diminishing transdermal absorption risks. The dual benefits of enhanced UV-protection efficiency and reduced dermal penetration underscore the composite’s potential as a safer and more effective active ingredient in cosmetic sunscreen products, with promising applications in advanced skincare and cosmeceutical formulations. Full article

This study presents the first comprehensive theoretical investigation of the antioxidant mechanisms of trans-isoferulic acid against hydroperoxyl (HOO^•) radicals in aqueous solution, using the DFT/M062X/6-311+G(d,p)/PCM method. Thermodynamic and kinetic parameters, including reaction energy barriers and bimolecular rate constants, were determined for the three major pathways: hydrogen transfer (HT), radical adduct formation (RAF), and single electron transfer (SET). The results indicate that, at physiological pH, the RAF mechanism is both more exergonic and approximately eight-times faster than HT. At a higher pH, where the phenolate anion dominates, antioxidant activity is enhanced by an additional fast, diffusion-limited SET pathway. Isoferulic acid was also found to effectively chelate Fe²⁺ ions at pH 7.4 and above, forming stable complexes that could inhibit Fenton-type hydroxyl radical generation. Moreover, its strong UV absorption suggests a role in limiting photo-induced free radical formation. These findings not only clarify the antioxidant behavior of isoferulic acid but also provide novel theoretical insights applicable to related phenolic compounds. The compound’s multi-target antioxidant profile highlights its potential as a photoprotective agent in sunscreen formulations. Full article

The depletion of the ozone layer and climate change have increased exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, driving the search for natural photoprotective agents. Marine macroalgae, particularly Gracilaria sp. (Rhodophyta) and Sargassum polyceratium (Ochrophyta), are rich in UV-absorbing bioactives, such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and fucoxanthin, offering natural alternatives to synthetic sunscreens. This study aimed to develop and optimize a nanoemulsion incorporating both algal extracts, with MAAs and fucoxanthin strategically distributed in the aqueous and oil phases, respectively, to enhance synergistic broad-spectrum UV protection. MAAs were quantified in Gracilaria sp. using UHPLC-DAD, revealing 8.03 mg/g dry weight, primarily composed of shinorine and porphyra-334. Fucoxanthin was identified in S. polyceratium at 0.98 mg/g dry weight. A Box–Behnken design (BBD) was employed to optimize the nanoemulsion, targeting minimal droplet size and optimal ζ potential. The resulting formulation achieved a droplet size less than 100 nm and a ζ potential less than −25.0 mV. In vitro spectrophotometric analysis demonstrated significant photoprotective potential. The nanoemulsion containing only 375 ppm of algal extracts exhibited a UVA ratio of 1.25 and a critical wavelength of 379 nm, meeting the criteria for broad-spectrum protection and outperforming the commercial natural filter Helioguard^®365. These results confirm the efficacy of combining red and brown algae extracts in a nanoemulsion platform to deliver sustainable, low-dose photoprotection. This work presents, for the first time, the incorporation of red and brown algae extracts into a single nanoemulsion system, representing a novel strategy to maximize the combined photoprotective potential of MAAs and fucoxanthin. Ultimately, this investigation contributes to the growing field of marine-derived sunscreens and supports the advancement of “blue beauty” innovations aligned with eco-conscious formulation principles. Full article

Comparing electroanalysis and chromatography, this study highlights that electroanalysis, specifically using a glassy carbon sensor (GCS), is the most appropriate choice for quantifying recalcitrant organic compounds. Octocrylene (OC), an organic compound commonly found in sunscreens, is of particular concern in swimming pool water monitoring, as its presence above legal limits poses health risks. OC quantification was performed using both high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and electroanalysis in sunscreen formulations and water matrices. The limits of detection (LODs) and quantification (LOQ) for OC were approximately 0.11 ± 0.01 mg L⁻¹ and 0.86 ± 0.04 mg L⁻¹ by electroanalysis, and 0.35 ± 0.02 mg L⁻¹ and 2.86 ± 0.12 mg L⁻¹ by HPLC. Electroanalysis successfully quantified OC in real sunscreen samples, and the results were comparable to those obtained by HPLC. The matrices tested—swimming pool water and distilled water (containing 0.002 M Cl⁻) contaminated with 0.4 ± 0.2 g L⁻¹ of sunscreen (based on a maximum concentration in sunscreen and cosmetic formulations of 10%)—showed OC concentrations below 10% in the formulation, with no significant differences observed between the two techniques. GCS was further utilized to monitor OC degradation via anodic oxidation at current densities of 5 and 10 mA cm⁻², using a boron-doped diamond (BDD) anode. The combined approach demonstrated high efficacy in both detecting and eliminating OC from various water matrices, making it a reliable and efficient alternative for environmental and water quality monitoring. Full article

Green tea catechins (GTCs) are a group of bioactive polyphenolic compounds found in fresh tea leaves (Camellia sinensis (L.) O. Kuntze). They have garnered significant attention due to their diverse health benefits and potential therapeutic applications, including as antioxidant and sunscreen agents. Human skin serves as the primary barrier against various external aggressors, including pathogens, pollutants, and harmful ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Skin aging is a complex biological process influenced by intrinsic factors such as genetics and hormonal changes, as well as extrinsic factors like environmental stressors, among which UVR plays a pivotal role in accelerating skin aging and contributing to various dermatological conditions. Research has demonstrated that GTCs possess potent antioxidant properties that help neutralize free radicals generated by oxidative stress. This action not only mitigates cellular damage but also supports the repair mechanisms inherent in human skin. Furthermore, GTCs exhibit anti-carcinogenic effects by inhibiting pathways involved in tumor promotion and progression. GTCs have been shown to exert anti-inflammatory effects through modulation of inflammatory signaling pathways. Chronic inflammation is known to contribute significantly to both premature aging and various dermatological diseases such as psoriasis or eczema. By regulating these pathways effectively, GTCs may alleviate symptoms associated with inflammatory conditions. GTCs can enhance wound healing processes by stimulating angiogenesis. They also facilitate DNA repair mechanisms within dermal fibroblasts exposed to damaging agents. The photoprotective properties attributed to GTCs further underscore their relevance in skincare formulations aimed at preventing sun-induced damage. Their ability to screen UV light helps shield underlying tissues from harmful rays. This review paper aims to comprehensively examine the beneficial effects of GTCs on skin health through an analysis encompassing in vivo and in vitro studies alongside insights into molecular mechanisms underpinning these effects. Such knowledge could pave the way for the development of innovative strategies focused on harnessing natural compounds like GTCs for improved skincare solutions tailored to combat environmental stresses faced by the human epidermis. Full article

The aim of this research was to design and synthesize new lipid conjugates of 7-DHC that could serve as a new storage form of esterified provitamin D₃, increasing the reservoir of this biomolecule in the epidermis and enabling controlled production of vitamin D₃ even during periods of sunlight deficiency. Acylglycerol and glycerophospholipid containing succinate-linked provitamin D₃ at the sn-2 position of the glycerol backbone were synthesized from dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and sn-glycerophosphocholine (GPC), respectively. The three-step synthesis of 1,3-dipalmitoyl-2-(7-dehydrocholesterylsuccinoyl)glycerol involved the esterification of DHA with palmitic acid, reduction of the carbonyl group, and conjugation of the resulting 1,3-dipalmitoylglycerol with 7-dehydrocholesterol hemisuccinate (7-DHC HS). The use of NaBH₃CN as a reducing agent was crucial to avoid acyl migration and achieve the final product with 100% regioisomeric purity. For the preparation of 1-palmitoyl-2-(7-dehydrocholesterylsuccinoyl)-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine, a two-step process was applied, involving the esterification of GPC at the sn-1 position with palmitic acid, followed by the conjugation of 1-palmitoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine with 7-DHC HS. Alongside the main product, a small amount of its regioisomer with provitamin D₃ linked at the sn-1 position and palmitic acid at the sn-2 position was detected, indicating acyl migration from the sn-1 to the sn-2 position in the intermediate 1-palmitoyl-sn-glycerophosphocholine. The synthesized novel lipids were fully characterized using spectroscopic methods. They can find applications as novel lipid-based prodrugs as additives to sunscreen creams. Full article

Film-forming agents are key ingredients in achieving long-lasting and effective sun protection by sunscreens. However, studies on the synergistic effects of film-forming agents with different properties as well as the interaction between film-forming agents and powders are scarce, restricting the development of sunscreens with strong ultraviolet (UV)-shielding effects. Herein, we innovatively adopt polysiloxane-15 as the soft film, trimethylsiloxysilicate as the hard film, and vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer as the functional powder to construct a co-assembled sunscreen film, and we investigate the property-enhancing effects of the sunscreen film as well as the interaction between the silicone polymer-based film-forming agents and functional powder therein. The results show that structural similarity is essential to generating film-forming agent–powder interactions, which primarily enhance the Si−O bond binding energy, thereby enhancing the lasting protection effect of sunscreens. In addition, the inter-component interaction of the co-assembled sunscreen film inhibits the agglomeration of sunscreen paste to facilitate the formation of a homogeneous film, endowing the sunscreen with excellent UV protection abilities, with the sun protection factor (SPF) and protection factor of UVA (PFA) values increased by 61.58 and 43.84%, respectively. This work offers novel insights into the optimization of film-forming agent properties and the development of durable and efficient sunscreens. Full article

Coffea arabica, Centella asiatica, and Curcuma longa extracts have demonstrated significant antioxidant and anti-aging activities. However, research on combining these three extracts in specific proportions to enhance their antioxidant and anti-hyaluronidase effects remains limited. Therefore, this study aimed to determine the optimal proportions of C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts to maximize their combined antioxidant and anti-hyaluronidase activities. A two-level full factorial design was used to identify the optimal concentration ratios of the mixed extracts. The results indicated that all extracts influenced antioxidant activity, with the optimal proportions of C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts being 0.5:6:2 mg/mL, respectively. In addition, all factors affected hyaluronidase enzyme inhibition, with the optimal proportions for C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts being 10:10:5 mg/mL to achieve the best inhibition. In a photostability study on individual extracts, mixed extracts, and mixed extracts combined with sodium metabisulfite and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, it was observed that preparing the mixed extracts and adding an antioxidant and a sunscreen agent helped reduce the photodegradation of phenolic compounds in the mixed extracts. Consequently, the stabilized mixed extracts could serve as raw materials in cosmetic products. Full article

Chitosan (Ch), a natural polysaccharide, is known for its biocompatibility, biodegradability, and various beneficial properties, including antioxidant and antibacterial activities. The objective of this study is to investigate the functionalization of zinc oxide (ZnO) with chitosan to develop a novel ZnO@Ch adduct for use in cosmetic formulations, specifically as a sun protection agent. The functionalization was achieved through ionotropic gelation, which enhanced the stability and reduced the photocatalytic activity of ZnO, thereby improving its safety profile for skin applications. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed the successful functionalization, while TGA and DSC characterized the thermal properties and stability. The Zeta potential and particle size analyses demonstrated improved stability of ZnO@Ch across various pH levels compared to uncoated ZnO. The structure of the obtained adduct was also confirmed by SEM analysis. The ZnO@Ch adduct exhibited enhanced stability at neutral and slightly alkaline pH values, reduced photocatalytic activity compared to pure ZnO, and had lower cytotoxicity in 3T3 cells compared to pure ZnO, particularly at higher concentrations. The ZnO@Ch adduct provided a higher Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and UVA Protection Factor (UVA-PF) than pure ZnO, indicating enhanced UV protection. The adduct’s ability to provide higher SPF at lower ZnO concentrations offers economic and environmental benefits, aligning with sustainable product design principles. Future studies will focus on optimizing the formulation and testing the efficacy and safety at higher concentrations to fully realize its potential as a natural, eco-friendly sunscreen ingredient. Full article