Search Results (6)

Almost 70 years after the surprise discovery of a cache of textile-wrapped relics inside an early 13th-century reliquary bust, the St Eustace head reliquary (accession number 1850,1127.1), four of the textile relic wrappings were analysed by combining multiband imaging and fibre-optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS), as well as dye analysis by high-pressure liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) and fibre analysis by scanning electron microscopy—energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX). In all cases, the use of silk was confirmed, in line with the idea that these precious textiles were purposefully chosen for reuse in a sacred setting. Additionally, dye analysis was able to point to the possible geographic origins of the textile fragments. For 1850,1127.1.a, a mixture of sappanwood (Biancaea sappan) and flavonoid yellow dyes was commensurate with a Chinese or Central Asian origin. Mediterranean origins were thought likely for 1850,1127.1.c and 1850,1127.1.f, from the mixture of kermes (Kermes vermilio) and cochineal (likely Porphyrophora sp.), found in the mauve band of the former, and the combination of weld (Reseda luteola), madder (Rubia tinctorum) and an indigoid dye found in the latter. Finally, the unusual combination of sappanwood, orchil and a yellow dye containing flavonoid glucuronides suggested a less straightforward origin for textile 1850,1127.1.g. The other textile fragments from the reliquary were only investigated using FORS without removing them from their Perspex glass mounts. Nonetheless, indications for the presence of insect-red anthraquinone dyes, safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) and an indigoid dye were obtained from some of these fragments. The study provides a window into the landscape of availability, use and re-use in sacred contexts of precious textiles in the 13th century and evidences the geographic reach of these silks, allowing a new perspective on the St Eustace head reliquary. Full article

Antoine Janot and Paul Gout were 18th-century master dyers who specialised in the piece-dyeing of fine wool broadcloths manufactured in Languedoc (southern France) for exportation to the Levant. They wrote treatises, similarly entitled Mémoires de Teinture (Memoirs on Dyeing), illustrated with dozens of dyed textile samples. Janot’s is dated 1744, and Gout’s is dated 1763. These books are full of extremely valuable information, which is unique to its time: the books are composed of carefully described recipes for every colour, each originally preceded by a sample swatch. The yellows of both master dyers made from weld (Reseda luteola L.), belonging to recipes described as Jaune (yellow), were reproduced. The influence of the ingredients, in both the mordanting and dyeing baths, was assessed, and the timings for both baths, which in many recipes are not clear, were tested. This provided key knowledge on the technological processes for dyeing with weld from these 18th c. French masters. The resulting reference samples were preliminarily analysed by a multi-analytical approach. Their chromatic specifications, expressed in the CIEL*a*b*, were compared with those in the Mémoires. Moreover, the influence of the recipe on the percentages of the chromophores was assessed by HPLC-DAD. It was found that the bran and tartar in the mordanting bath influence the final obtained colour and that lime is essential to obtain a bright yellow. Full article

High Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled to a Diode-Array-Detector (HPLC-DAD) is used to investigate samples which were extracted from ancient Egyptian textiles (4th–5th c. AD) of the Museum of Faculty of Archaeology, Cairo University. Madder is identified in several samples. According to semi-quantitative results, which are obtained from HPLC peak areas measured at 254 nm, madder that is rich in purpurin and poor in alizarin is identified in samples which were treated (i) only with madder and (ii) with madder and either indigo/woad (Indigofera species and other/Isatis tinctoria L.) or weld (Reseda luteola L.). The madder dye used in these samples could have been originated from Rubia peregrina L. However, the possible use of Rubia tinctorum L. (or other plants of the Rubiaceae family) by the Egyptian dyers cannot be ruled out, particularly if methods were developed by the ancient dyers to affect and control the relative composition of madder dye. The HPLC peak area ratio of alizarin versus purpurin is very high (>2.2) for samples which were treated with madder (probably originated from R. tinctorum) and a tannin source. Finally, in some samples, only indigoid dyes (indigo/woad) are identified. Full article

Detailed knowledge on natural dyes is important for agronomy and quality control as well as the fastness, stability, and analysis of dyed textiles. Weld (Reseda luteola L.), which is a source of flavone-based yellow dye, is the focus of this study. One aim was to reduce the required amount of dyed textile to ≤50 μg for a successful chromatographic analysis. The second aim was to unambiguously confirm the identity of all weld flavones. By carrying out the extraction of 50 μg dyed wool with 25 μL of solvent and analysis by reversed-phase UHPLC at 345 nm, reproducible chromatographic fingerprints could be obtained with good signal to noise ratios. Ten baseline separated peaks with relative areas ≥1% were separated in 6 min. Through repeated polyamide column chromatography and prepHPLC, the compounds corresponding with the fingerprint peaks were purified from dried weld. Each was unequivocally identified, including the position and configuration of attached sugars, by means of 1D and 2D NMR and high-resolution MS. Apigenin-4′-O-glucoside and luteolin-4′-O-glucoside were additionally identified as two trace flavones co-eluting with other flavone glucosides, the former for the first time in weld. The microextraction might be extended to other used dye plants, thus reducing the required amount of precious historical textiles. Full article

Weld (Reseda luteola) was one of the main sources of yellow dyes used for dyeing textiles and to prepare artists’ pigments in Europe until the 19th century. For the first time, this work explores the technology of preparing weld lake pigments in the 19th century by Winsor & Newton (W&N), a renowned supplier of artists’ materials. Five recipes were discovered in the W&N 19th century Archive Database and reconstructed in the laboratory. W&N was extracting weld in neutral and basic media, and preparing the insoluble lake by complexation with Al³⁺ in the form of alum (KAl(SO₄)₂•12H₂O) or hydrated alumina (Al(OH)₃). Five yellow lake pigments were successfully obtained and characterized by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography-Diode Array Detector (HPLC-DAD) and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR). Their chromatographic profiles display as main yellows, luteolin 7-O-glucoside (Lut-7-O-glu) or both Lut-7-O-glu plus luteolin 3′,7-O-glucoside (Lut-3’,7-O-glu). In two of the processes, the presence of gypsum (CaSO₄•2H₂O) was unequivocally detected by FTIR, being formed as a by-product. This work offers the first identification of weld lake pigments’ characteristic infrared bands. The W&N Database proved again to be a unique source of information on 19th-century artists’ materials and their commercial preparation. The knowledge gain is essential to ensure effective conservation and authentication procedures. Full article

Skin whitening agents occupy an important part of the dermo-cosmetic market nowadays. They are used to treat various skin pigmentation disorders, or simply to obtain a lighter skin tone. The use of traditional skin bleachers (e.g., hydroquinone, corticoids) is now strictly regulated due to their side effects. When considering this and the growing consumers’ interest for more natural ingredients, plant extracts can be seen as safe and natural alternatives. In this perspective, in vitro bioassays were undertaken to assess cosmetic potential of Reseda luteola, and particularly its promising whitening activities. A bioguided purification procedure employing centrifugal partition chromatography, Ultra Performance Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (UPLC-HRMS) and NMR was developed to isolate and identify the whitening agents (i.e., luteolin and apigenin) from aerial parts of R. luteola. UPLC-HRMS also enabled the characterization of acetylated luteolin- and apigenin-O-glycosides, which occurrence is reported for the first time in R. luteola. Full article