1. Introduction
The generation of water waves by wind is a fundamental problem of both scientific and operational concern. However, despite much theoretical research, observations and numerical simulations, the theoretical mechanism remains controversial, see the comprehensive reviews by [
1,
2], and the recent comments by [
3,
4,
5,
6]. Two main mechanisms are currently invoked. One is a shear flow instability mechanism initially developed by [
7] and subsequently adapted for routine use in wave forecasting models, see the review by [
2]. In this theory, turbulence in the wind is used only to determine a logarithmic profile for the mean wind profile
. Then, a monochromatic sinusoidal wave field is assumed, with a real-valued wavenumber
k and a complex-valued phase speed,
so that the waves may have a growth rate
. It is found that there is a significant transfer of energy from the wind to the waves at the critical level
where
. Pertinent to the context of this paper, we note that that this was extended to allow for spatial growth instead of temporal growth by [
8]. The other is essentially a steady-state theory, developed originally by [
9] for separated flow over large amplitude waves, and importantly later adapted for non-separated flow over low-amplitude waves, see [
1,
4] for instance. Here the wind turbulence is taken into account through an eddy viscosity term in an inner region near the wave surface, and asymmetry in this inner region then allows for an energy flux to the waves.
Neither theory alone has been found completely satisfactory, and in particular, both fail to take account of wave transience and the tendency of waves to develop into wave groups, see [
5,
6]. This issue was addressed in our preliminary study [
10], and is developed further here in the context of a general theory of wave groups for unstable waves. The methodology is based on linear shear flow instability theory, but incorporates from the outset that the waves will have a wave-group structure with both temporal and spatial dependence. In fluid flows this was initiated by [
11,
12] in the context of shear flows, see the summary by [
13] and the reviews by [
14,
15]. The essential feature that we exploit is that the wave group moves with a real-valued group velocity
even when for unstable flows the frequency
and the wavenumber
k are complex-valued.
In
Section 2 we develop the general linearized theory for a stratified shear flow, showing that the group velocity is real-valued and presenting some implications. In
Section 3 we make a reduction to an air-water system, with constant density in both the air and the water, and no background shear flow in the water. Two special cases are investigated in detail, Kelvin-Helmholtz instability and and a smooth monotonic wind profile. While both these have been heavily studied, the wave-group analysis presented here provides a new perspective. In
Section 4 we extend the analysis to the weakly nonlinear regime, and present a forced nonlinear Schrödinger model, which is used to examine modulation instability under wind forcing. We conclude in
Section 5.
2. Formulation
We begin with the linear stability theory for a general stratified shear flow, and then develop the theory for the air-water system as a special case. The basic state is the density profile
and the horizontal shear flow
in the
x-direction. Then the linearized equations are
Here, the terms
are the perturbation velocity components in the
directions,
is the perturbation density, and
p is the perturbation pressure. Equations (
1)–(
3) represent conservation of momentum, Equation (
4) represents conservation of mass, and Equation (
5) is the incompressibility condition. The vertical particle displacement
is defined in this linearized formulation by
Then the density field is given by integrating Equation (
4) to get
Substituting Equations (
7) and (
8) into the remaining equations and eliminating
yields a single equation for
,
This equation, together with the boundary conditions that
at
(the bottom of the ocean) and as
(the top of the atmosphere) is the basic equation to examine wave groups and linear stability.
Next we seek a solution describing a wave group,
Here c.c. denotes the complex conjugate, and
is a small parameter describing the slow variation of the amplitude
relative to the carrier wave. The frequency
, where
c is the phase speed in the
x-direction. Both
and the wavenumbers
may be complex-valued, and then the imaginary part of the frequency is the temporal growth rate of an unstable wave. Importantly later we shall set
so the transverse dependence is only in the amplitude envelope. At leading order, we obtain the modal equation, well-known as the Taylor-Goldstein equation,
This defines the modal functions and the dispersion relation specifying
. At the next order in
we obtain the equation determining the wave envelope amplitude
. However, first we note the integral identity
This can be regarded as an expression of the dispersion relation,
. In the sequel we will be mainly concerned with the case when
, when the modal Equation (
11) reduces to
which can be regarded as determining the dispersion relation in the form
where
, and
c is the complex-valued phase velocity. Differentiation of
with respect to
, and evaluating at
, yields
where
is the group velocity in the
x-direction, and can be expressed in the form,
It is useful to note that the dependence of
, and hence of
. on
l is through
.
At the next order in the asymptotic expansion we obtain a forced Taylor-Goldstein equation for
in the independent variable
z. A compatibility condition is needed and this yields when
,
The details are described in [
10] and are omitted here. Instead we note that in this linearized theory, the equation for the envelope amplitude can be obtained more directly from the dispersion relation evaluated at
,
Expansion in powers of
yields, at the leading order in
,
The amplitude Equation (
16) follows on using Equation (
14). It implies that the amplitude envelope propagates with the group velocity, since the solution states that
A is constant on the characteristics
, and so
must be real-valued. This is well-known for stable waves, but that it also holds for unstable waves when
may be complex-valued is not so well-known in the fluid dynamics literature. However, see the seminal work on shear flows by [
11,
12], and the several papers which followed in the reviews by [
14,
15]. These works mainly solved the linear initial-value problem with Fourier transforms, and then when the long-time asymptotic solution was sought, the method of steepest descent revealed the critical condition that
, thus enforcing the group velocity to be real-valued. For unstable waves when the frequency
is complex-valued this leads to the necessity that the wavenumber
k must also be complex-valued, and
vice-versa. The imaginary parts of
and
k are linked by the requirement that the group velocity is real-valued.
At the next order in the expansion we get that
Here we note that
while
If there is no shear flow
this is just
. see Equation (
15). Since
is real-valued, we can make a transformation to put Equation (
19) into the canonical form,
This is the well-known linear Schödinger equation for the evolution of weakly dispersive stable wave packets, but it is not widely known that it also holds for unstable wave packets.
Next we put
,
, and assume that
and
, where without loss of generality we assume that
. For consistency with the modulation scaling in the wave packet expansion Equation (
10) we anticipate that the spatial and temporal growth rates
are at least
. Then we extract the imaginary part of the phase in Equation (
10), so that
In the reference frame moving withe group velocity,
is the growth rate, and taking account that
is real-valued, can be written as
Importantly this must be evaluated on those complex-valued wavenumbers
k such that
is real-valued. Since
is a real-valued phase, we write
so that Equation (
10) becomes,
and the wave packet Equation (
16) becomes, to leading order.
Note that the growth rate
is at least
. The same substitution converts the linear Schrödinger Equation (
22) into
For consistency we must now assume that
are at least
, so that the growth rate
is at least
. The coefficients
are real-valued to leading order in
,
As already noted the dispersion relation
must be examined in the complex
k-plane, and even for relatively simple expressions, this can be a complex task in general. However, if, as here, we assume that the the imaginary parts of
and
k are small, then simple approximate expressions can be derived. This, putting
and expanding,
where
is the temporal growth rate, and is often written as
. It follows that
, and since
is real-valued to leading order, the error term is
. This differs from the corresponding growth rate in [
10] due to a different interpretation of the temporal growth rate; [
10] defined this as
which includes a contribution from
. The interpretation here agrees with that in [
3,
16,
17,
18,
19], who also studied water wave groups under wind forcing. The derivation here is quite general and applies to all physical systems which support wave groups. The condition that the group velocity be real-valued implies that
where we note that
to the same level of approximation, and the right-hand side has used the expression Equation (
15).
3. Air-Water System
For an air-water system, we follow the formulation of [
10] and write,
Here
are the constant air and water density respectively, the undisturbed air-water interface is at
,
is the Heaviside function and
is the Dirac delta function. The water is bounded below at
, and the air is unbounded above. Continuity of
at the interface
implies that
is continuous across
. Since the modal Equation (
11) is homogeneous, without loss of generality we can set
. Then in the air (
) and water (
) the modal Equation (
11) collapses to the Rayleigh equation
The dynamical boundary condition at
is found by integrating Equation (
31) across
, with the outcome
The system Equation (
31), Equation (
32) is supplemented by the boundary conditions that
at
and that
as
. It remains to specify the shear flow
. In the water, there is no background current, so that
,
, so that the solution of Equation (
31) which satisfies the boundary condition
is
Here we recall that we have set
without loss of generality. The boundary condition Equation (
32) then reduces to
If there is no air (
), then this reduces to the usual water wave dispersion relation
and in that limit the waves are stable and
k is real-valued. Since
it follows that for unstable waves
and
are
, and so
s is a convenient small parameter, which we will later link to the modulation parameter
. The integral identity Equation (
12) at
reduces to
Similarly, the expression Equation (
15) for the group velocity reduces to
Note that in the limit
this becomes
. the group velocity for unforced water waves. It remains to specify the wind profile
in
, and we will reconsider two well-known cases.
3.1. Kelvin-Helmholtz Instability
First, assume that
where
U is a constant. This Helmholtz profile is not usually regarded as a relevant model for water waves, see [
7], but with the inclusion of interfacial surface tension it is may become of some practical interest, see [
13,
15,
20,
21]. It is useful here as it leads to an explicit expression for the dispersion relation, which can then be analyzed for complex-valued
and
k. For this choice of
the modal Equation (
31) in
has the solution
valid for
. Application of the boundary condition Equation (
34) leads to the dispersion relation
Here we have included the effects of interfacial surface tension with a coefficient
, see [
13,
15,
20,
21]. This is a quadratic equation for
with solution
There is now temporal instability when the argument of the term in the brackets
, evaluated at
, is negative, this being the well-known Kelvin-Helmholtz instability. The subsequent analysis is simplified if we take the deep-water limit
, that is
since
. Then Equation (
39) reduces to
It is useful to define a dimensionless wavenumber
so that Equation (
40) becomes
Here
B is a dimensionless Bond number. Temporal instability occurs when the term in brackets
, which requires that
and then defines a wavenumber band,
Within this band the temporal growth rate is
The expression Equation (
15) for the group velocity becomes
The requirement that
be real-valued implies that
which determines a relationship between
and
. The growth rate Equation (
24) becomes
Importantly, we note that since for these unstable waves
, and from Equation (
43)
is
, we infer that the growth rate
scales with
for large surface tension (
B is
), but for small surface tension as
scales with
.
Although Equation (
46) is a relatively simple expression, an analytical solution appears still to be beyond reach. Hence instead we follow the example of [
15] and examine the dispersion relation in the vicinity of the onset of instability, that is, we set
and
. The expression Equation (
42) for the phase speed becomes
and there is instability when
in the wavenumber band
. The expression Equation (
64) for the group velocity reduces to
For this to be real-valued, we require that either
is real-valued and
, or that
is pure imaginary. The former leads to stable waves and is excluded here, and so the latter is adopted when Equation (
49) becomes
The growth rate Equation (
47) becomes
The corresponding temporal instability growth rate is Equation (
44), and in this approximation becomes
These differ in magnitude even when
, and curiously the branches (±) which are unstable/stable for the temporal growth rate
interchange for the growth rate
in the group velocity reference frame.
3.2. Monotonic Wind Profile
The usual theories such as those in [
2,
7,
22] assume that the wind profile
is continuous, monotonically increasing with height
z and vanishes at
. However, there are then no simple explicit analytic expressions available for the modal function
and hence for the dispersion relation. Instead it is customary to take the limit
when
. Then various approximations have been used, most of which require evaluation of the modal function near a critical level
where
and there is a singularity. Here we attempt to avoid this limit, and use an approximation similar to those used by [
2,
10].
We make a further assumption that
, a constant, for
, where
. In the zone
the term
in Equation (
31) is neglected, and then an approximate solution is,
where the constant
D is determined by matching at
. Formally, this is valid when
, and in particular,
. In the limit
the second term in Equation (
53) is singular at
and is evaluated by assuming that
(evaluated at
), and then taking the limit
. This yields the Frobenius expansion
Here the branch of the logarithm when
must be chosen corresponding to the requirement that the growth rate
, that is
Then for
,
where
denotes the principal value integral, and we recall that
. In
,
Across
both
and
are continuous and so
Elimination of
yields the expression for
D,
Finally, since
. substitution into Equation (
34) yields the dispersion relation
This is equivalent to Equation (
35) under the approximations used here. It simplifies considerably in the limits
where we assume that in this joint limit the integral term converges. Then Equation (
60) becomes
Following the analysis in [
10] it is useful to put
where we note that
is independent of
s. In the limit
with
real-valued, after using Equation (
56) and that
, we get the temporal growth rate
This quite simple expression for
agrees with that in [
10] after appropriate simplifications in [
10] are made. In general, it offers a potentially quite useful explicit expression for the temporal growth rate, although it cannot be used for the commonly invoked logarithmic profile as then the integral term does not converge.
Our interest here is in the group velocity
and then using Equation (
62)
where we note that here
Equation (
62), and
is the water wave-group velocity, but evaluated here for a complex-valued
k. We now require that this be real-valued, and putting
and expanding for
we get that
where
is the temporal growth rate defined by Equation (
63). Please note that
here. In this same limit
, the growth rate
, see Equation (
28) and the following discussion.
4. Nonlinear Schrödinger Equation
When this linearized analysis is extended to the weakly nonlinear regime, we expect that the linear Schrödinger equation (Equation (
27)) will be replaced by the wind-forced nonlinear Schrödinger equation, see [
3,
10,
16,
17,
18,
19] for related studies in the one-dimensional context,
Here the nonlinear coefficient
is the Stokes amplitude-dependent frequency correction, which in the present context to leading order will just be that for water waves. In the deep-water limit as
,
,
and
where
. Formally, the derivation of Equation (
66) requires a re-scaling in which
as in Equation (
21), and the amplitude
B is scaled with
. This suggests that for the monotonic wind profiles of
Section 3.2 we put
. Since
this implies a restriction to waves with amplitudes of non-dimensional order
. However, the analysis of the Kelvin-Helmholtz profiles in
Section 3.1 does not require this link between
s and
.
The nonlinear and dispersive terms in Equation (
66) are not sufficient to control the exponential growth of a localized wave packet, since
Further the modulation instability, present when
(as for deep-water waves) in the absence of wind, is enhanced in the presence of wind, see [
16] for the one-dimensional case. To see this, first transform Equation (
66) into
In this transformed system, the energy expression Equation (
67) becomes a conservation law
This has the “plane wave” solution
. Modulation instability is then found by putting
into Equation (
68) and linearizing in
b, so that
Then we seek solutions of the form
where
are real-valued, and find that
When
, and this yields the usual criterion for modulation instability, namely that
. That is, since here
, there is instability for
and then
, which defines the well-known instability band in the
plane. When
,
F varies from 1 to 0 as
s increases from 0 to ∞. Since as
,
, there is modulation instability provided only that
, that is
, and so independent of
. Further the band in the
plane opens to the half-space
. Using the deep-water values for
this is the region
. Although the general solution of Equation (
71) can be expressed in terms of modified Bessel functions of imaginary order, see [
16], we shall not pursue this here as the main outcome is already clear. However, we note that as
,
,
. Even taking account of the cancellation of the factor
with the pre-factor
in Equation (
68), we see that the modulation growth rate is now super-exponential.
This linearized analysis of modulation instability does not indicate the outcome of the wave growth. However, in the absence of wind forcing, and in the context of the one-dimensional (that is, the
Y-variation is omitted) nonlinear Schrödinger equation, it is known that modulation instability leads to formation of envelope solitary waves or even rogue waves, modelled by Peregrine breathers, see [
23,
24] for instance. This has been confirmed in several numerical and laboratory experiments, see [
25,
26,
27]. We might expect a similar outcome under wind forcing, but a detailed analysis is beyond the scope of this present article. Instead we note that the transformed nonlinear Schrödinger Equation (
68) in the one-dimensional context has the slowly varying solitary wave solution
The solitary wave parameters are slowly varying functions of s, and are determined by an asymptotic multi-scale analysis, see [
28]. The outcome is that
This can also be established by substituting Equation (
72) into the energy expression Equation (
69). As
,
, and so the amplitude
, and the growth rate is exponential as
. Interestingly, this is superposed onto the growth term
in the transformation in Equation (
68) and so doubles the linear growth rate. This agrees with the super-exponential growth rate of the modulational instability.
5. Discussion
In this paper, we have presented a theory for the description of wave groups for unstable waves, Although this is in the context of a stratified shear flow, the methodology is based on the linear dispersion relation, and so is applicable to many other physical systems. At leading order for plane waves, the system is governed by the Taylor-Goldstein equation determining a dispersion relation for the wave frequency and wavenumber. At the next order in an asymptotic expansion, the main outcome is that, as is well-known for stable waves, the wave envelope propagates with the group velocity, which must then be real-valued. This has the consequence that for unstable waves, both the wave frequency and the wavenumber are complex-valued. The outcome is that the waves are unstable in the reference frame moving with the group velocity, with a growth rate which in general is different from the temporal growth rate where only the wave frequency is complex-valued.
The theory is then explored in the context of an air-water system, with the aim of examining the consequences of this wave-group approach for wind waves. Two specific cases are examined in detail, chosen for their analytical simplicity rather than direct applicability. One is Kelvin-Helmholtz instability where we find that the growth rate for wave groups is quite different from the well-known temporal instability. The other is for a monotonic wind profile, where to achieve analytical tractability, we make some approximations in the calculation of the modal function to lead to an explicit dispersion relation. Even so, here we must exploit the approximation that the ratio of the air density to the water density is a small parameter, and then we find that the growth rate in the reference frame moving with the group velocity and the temporal growth rate are in approximate agreement.
At the next order in the asymptotic expansion, and incorporating weakly nonlinear terms, we obtain a nonlinear Schrödinger equation, the usual equation for stable waves but now incorporating a linear growth term. Although this is not integrable, the plane wave solution is tested for modulation instability. We find that there is an an enhanced growth rate on top of the linear growth rate, and so the overall growth rate is super-exponential. Also, the band width of modulation wavenumbers is considerable widened under the wind forcing. For stable waves governed by the nonlinear Schrödinger equation, wave groups can be described by the soliton solution. In the presence of wind forcing, we find that the soliton amplitude grows at twice the linear growth rate. Overall, although there is still much to be explored in this forced nonlinear Schrödinger equation, we conclude that wind forcing considerably enhances modulation instability and the growth of the wave-group envelope.