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Article

Amaranth Oilseed Composition and Cosmetic Applications

by
Bouchra Sayed-Ahmad
1,2,
Martine Urrutigoïty
3,
Akram Hijazi
2,
Zeinab Saad
2,
Muriel Cerny
1,
Philippe Evon
1,
Thierry Talou
1 and
Othmane Merah
1,4,*
1
Laboratoire de Chimie Agro-Industrielle (LCA), Université de Toulouse, INRA, INPT, 31030 Toulouse, France
2
Research Platform of Environmental Science, Doctoral School of Science and Technology, Lebanese University, Campus Rafic Hariri, BP 5, Hadath-Beirut P.O. Box 5, Lebanon
3
Laboratoire de Chimie de Coordination (LCC), Université de Toulouse, CNRS, 31030 Toulouse, France
4
Département Génie Biologique, Université Paul Sabatier, IUT A, 32000 Auch, France
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Separations 2022, 9(7), 181; https://doi.org/10.3390/separations9070181
Submission received: 25 June 2022 / Revised: 15 July 2022 / Accepted: 17 July 2022 / Published: 19 July 2022
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Food Quality and Safety: Advances in Analytical Methods and Applications)
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Abstract

Amaranth (Amaranthus cruentus) is a possible alternative to high-nutritional-value crops. Amaranth seeds are considered to be one of the few sources of phytosqualene (up to 8%). The use of squalene and its hydrogenated form squalane in skincare formulations has been steadily increasing, and the demand for these compounds is expected to rise continuously. The aim of this study was to investigate the amaranth oilseed as a potential ingredient for cosmetic applications. First, an experimental design and optimization were carried out in order to obtain amaranth oil rich in squalane instead of squalene through catalytic hydrogenation. Under the optimal conditions, the resulting oil was fully hydrogenated, with higher stability, and more suitable for cosmetic uses. Furthermore, the effect of the addition of amaranth oil and squalane on the rheological and sensory characteristics of moisturizing cream formulations was assessed. As expected, higher contents of oil and polyunsaturated fatty acids were obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, and were used for the next step of the experiment. Optimization of the experimental conditions resulted in fully hydrogenated amaranth oil, with higher stability and rich in squalane. Better quality of moisturizing cream formulations was achieved when W/O formulations were enriched with 2% oil, or by adding 1% oil and 1% squalane. The formulation rich in squalane showed a better overall quality compared to other formulations.
Keywords: Amaranth oil; squalene; squalane; catalytic hydrogenation; moisturizing cream Amaranth oil; squalene; squalane; catalytic hydrogenation; moisturizing cream

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MDPI and ACS Style

Sayed-Ahmad, B.; Urrutigoïty, M.; Hijazi, A.; Saad, Z.; Cerny, M.; Evon, P.; Talou, T.; Merah, O. Amaranth Oilseed Composition and Cosmetic Applications. Separations 2022, 9, 181. https://doi.org/10.3390/separations9070181

AMA Style

Sayed-Ahmad B, Urrutigoïty M, Hijazi A, Saad Z, Cerny M, Evon P, Talou T, Merah O. Amaranth Oilseed Composition and Cosmetic Applications. Separations. 2022; 9(7):181. https://doi.org/10.3390/separations9070181

Chicago/Turabian Style

Sayed-Ahmad, Bouchra, Martine Urrutigoïty, Akram Hijazi, Zeinab Saad, Muriel Cerny, Philippe Evon, Thierry Talou, and Othmane Merah. 2022. "Amaranth Oilseed Composition and Cosmetic Applications" Separations 9, no. 7: 181. https://doi.org/10.3390/separations9070181

APA Style

Sayed-Ahmad, B., Urrutigoïty, M., Hijazi, A., Saad, Z., Cerny, M., Evon, P., Talou, T., & Merah, O. (2022). Amaranth Oilseed Composition and Cosmetic Applications. Separations, 9(7), 181. https://doi.org/10.3390/separations9070181

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