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Multivariate Analysis of Olfactory Profiles for 140 Perfumes as a Basis to Derive a Sensory Wheel for the Classification of Feminine Fragrances

Department of Applied Statistics, Operations Research and Quality, Universitat Politècnica de València, Camino de Vera s/n, 46022 Valencia, Spain
Cosmetics 2020, 7(1), 11; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7010011
Received: 7 January 2020 / Revised: 5 February 2020 / Accepted: 7 February 2020 / Published: 12 February 2020
In order to guide consumers in their purchase of a new fragrance, one approach is to visualize the spectrum of men’s or women’s fragrances on a two-dimensional plot. One of such sensory maps available is the Hexagon of Fragrance Families. It displays 91 women’s perfumes inside a polygon, so that each side accounts for a different olfactory class. In order to discuss this chart, odor profiles were obtained for these fragrances and additional feminine ones (140 in total, launched from 1912 to 1990). An olfactory dataset was arranged by coding numerically the descriptions obtained from Fragrantica and Osmoz websites, as well as from a perfume guide. By applying principal component analysis, a sensory map was obtained that properly reflected the similarities between odor descriptors. Such representation was equivalent to the map of feminine fragrances called Givaudan Analogies, comprised of five major categories. Based on the results, a modified version of the Hexagon based on 14 categories was proposed. The first principal component explained preference for daytime versus nighttime wear, and regression models were fitted in order to estimate such preferences according to the odor profiles. The second component basically discriminated floral versus chypre (mossy–woody) fragrances. Results provide a fundamental basis to develop standard sensory maps of women’s fragrances. View Full-Text
Keywords: odor analysis; fragrance; olfactory psychophysics; smell perception; odor descriptor odor analysis; fragrance; olfactory psychophysics; smell perception; odor descriptor
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Zarzo, M. Multivariate Analysis of Olfactory Profiles for 140 Perfumes as a Basis to Derive a Sensory Wheel for the Classification of Feminine Fragrances. Cosmetics 2020, 7, 11.

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