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Design Methodology for the Development of a New Cosmetic Active Based on Prunus domestica L. Leaves Extract

1
Université Côte d’Azur, CNRS, ICN, Parc Valrose, CEDEX 2, 06108 Nice, France
2
Laboratoires JYTA, 5ème rue, 1ère avenue 3283m, 06150 Carros, France
3
NissActive, Pépinière Innovagrasse, Espace Jacques-Louis Lions, 4 traverse Dupont, 06130 Grasse, France
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Cosmetics 2019, 6(1), 8; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics6010008
Received: 20 December 2018 / Revised: 22 January 2019 / Accepted: 26 January 2019 / Published: 29 January 2019
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Aging)
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PDF [2291 KB, uploaded 29 January 2019]
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Abstract

When it comes to the development of new active ingredients for cosmetics, biodiversity is a rich source for inspiration that must be tapped in a sustainable manner to cause no social nor ecological damage. Agri-food by-products are therefore more and more considered as available biomass that can be reused to extract their maximum value to produce new cosmetic ingredients before returning to the biosphere. The process to transform plant waste materials into powerful cosmetic actives is thoroughly described in the present paper via the example of the design of a liquid anti-aging ingredient based on a Prunus domestica L. extract obtained by maceration of plums’ dried leaves in propylene glycol. The subsequent development of an SPE (solid-phase extraction) methodology used to remove the propylene glycol to get access to the extracted molecules is thoroughly described as a means to follow the stability of the ingredient over time once formulated into a finished product. View Full-Text
Keywords: natural cosmetic ingredient; Prunus domestica L.; agricultural by-products; circular economy; sustainability; anti-age; cosmetic bioassays; green glycols; SPE natural cosmetic ingredient; Prunus domestica L.; agricultural by-products; circular economy; sustainability; anti-age; cosmetic bioassays; green glycols; SPE
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This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited (CC BY 4.0).
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MDPI and ACS Style

Plainfossé, H.; Burger, P.; Verger-Dubois, G.; Azoulay, S.; Fernandez, X. Design Methodology for the Development of a New Cosmetic Active Based on Prunus domestica L. Leaves Extract. Cosmetics 2019, 6, 8.

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