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Open AccessFeature PaperArticle
Cosmetics 2018, 5(4), 59;

Formulating O/W Emulsions with Plant-Based Actives: A Stability Challenge for an Effective Product

Department of Pharmaceutical and Pharmacological Sciences, University of Padova, Via Francesco Marzolo 5, 35131 Padova, Italy
UniR&D srl, Spin-Off University of Padova, Via Niccolò Tommaseo 69, 35131 Padova, Italy
Vitroscreen srl, P.le Giulio Cesare 17, 20145 Milan, Italy
INDENA S.p.A., Viale Ortles 12, 20139 Milan, Italy
UNIFARCO S.p.A., Via Cal Longa 62, 32035 Santa Giustina (BL), Italy
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Received: 6 September 2018 / Revised: 27 September 2018 / Accepted: 2 October 2018 / Published: 9 October 2018
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Green Ingredients in Cosmetics and food)
PDF [3233 KB, uploaded 9 October 2018]


Quality, safety, and efficacy concerns added to instability, poor absorption, and the dispersion of actives are common problems while formulating plant-based cosmetics. Furthermore, a correct balance between the stability of the emulsion, the sensory profile, and the high efficacy has to be considered to formulate an effective product. In this paper, we demonstrate that rheology is a methodological tool that can be used while designing a new product. In particular, we developed an O/W emulsion which is easy to spread on irritated skin, and that can soothe the redness and discomfort caused by the exposure to both physical and chemical irritating agents. The green active mixture consists of three natural raw materials: Bosexil®, Zanthalene®, and Xilogel®. Each ingredient has a well-demonstrated efficacy in terms of soothing, anti-itching, and moisturizing properties respectively. Starting from the selection of a new green emulsifying system, through the analysis of the rheological properties, we obtained a stable and easy-to-apply o/w emulsion. The efficacy of the optimized product was assessed in vitro on intact and injured skin using the SkinEthic™ Reconstituted Human Epidermis (RHE) as a biological model. View Full-Text
Keywords: rheology; plant-based actives; emulsion design rheology; plant-based actives; emulsion design

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This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited (CC BY 4.0).

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Semenzato, A.; Costantini, A.; Meloni, M.; Maramaldi, G.; Meneghin, M.; Baratto, G. Formulating O/W Emulsions with Plant-Based Actives: A Stability Challenge for an Effective Product. Cosmetics 2018, 5, 59.

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