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Open AccessArticle

Flavonoid-Enriched Plant-Extract-Loaded Emulsion: A Novel Phytocosmetic Sunscreen Formulation with Antioxidant Properties

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Institute of Biology, University of Campinas (UNICAMP), R. Monteiro Lobato, 255, Campinas, Sao Paulo 13083-862, Brazil
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Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Coimbra (UC), Pólo das Ciências da Saúde, Azinhaga de Santa Comba, 3000-548 Coimbra, Portugal
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Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Campinas (UNICAMP), Rua Cândido Portinari, 200, Campinas, Sao Paulo 13083-871, Brazil
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School of Medical Sciences, University of Campinas (UNICAMP), R. Sergio Buarque de Holanda, 250, Campinas, Sao Paulo 13083-859, Brazil
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Kosmoscience Group, Campinas 13041-315, Brazil
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Department of Manufacturing and Materials Engineering, School of Mechanical Engineering, University of Campinas (UNICAMP), Rua Mendeleyev 200, Campinas, São Paulo 13083-860, Brazil
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Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Sorocaba (UNISO), Sao Paulo 18023-000, Brazil
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Department of Pharmacy, Pharmaceutical Technology and Physical Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Institute of Nanoscience and Nanotechnology (IN2UB), University of Barcelona, 08028 Barcelona, Spain
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Networking Research Centre of Neurodegenerative Disease (CIBERNED), Instituto de Salud Juan Carlos III, 28031 Madrid, Spain
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Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, 1649-003 Lisboa, Portugal
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Centre of Biological Engineering (CEB), University of Minho, Campus de Gualtar, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal
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Authors to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Antioxidants 2019, 8(10), 443; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox8100443
Received: 7 August 2019 / Revised: 18 September 2019 / Accepted: 19 September 2019 / Published: 1 October 2019
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Antioxidants in Cosmetics)
The aim of this study was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant effect, containing a blend of flavonoid-enriched plant extracts. In vitro sun protection factor, antioxidant activity, skin irritation, photostability, cutaneous permeation, and retention of flavonoids were evaluated. Thermodynamically stable emulsions were obtained and tested for sensorial analysis after loading the blend of extracts. The selected emulsion was stable when stored at low temperatures (5 °C), for which after 120 days the concentration of quercetin and rutin were above their limit of quantification, i.e., 2.8 ± 0.39 μg/mL and 30.39 ± 0.39 μg/mL, respectively. Spreadability, low rupture strength and adhesiveness were shown to be similar to a conventional topical product. Higher brittleness, pseudo-plastic, and viscoelastic behaviors were also recorded for the developed phytocosmetic sunscreen. The product presented a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and ultraviolet rays A and B (UVA/UVB) rate of 0.78, confirming that the developed formulation shows capacity for UVA/UVB protection, protecting skin against damages caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Rutin was shown to permeate the skin barrier and was also quantified in the stratum corneum (3.27 ± 1.92 μg/mL) by tape stripping and retention test (114.68 ± 8.70 μg/mL). The developed flavonoid-enriched phytocosmetic was shown to be non-irritant to skin by an in vitro assay. Our results confirm the antioxidant activity, sun protection, and physical properties of the developed phytocosmetic for topical application. View Full-Text
Keywords: flavonoids; phytocosmetic; emulsion; antioxidant; photostability; sunscreen flavonoids; phytocosmetic; emulsion; antioxidant; photostability; sunscreen
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Cefali, L.C.; Ataide, J.A.; Fernandes, A.R.; Sousa, I.M.O.; Gonçalves, F.C.S.; Eberlin, S.; Dávila, J.L.; Jozala, A.F.; Chaud, M.V.; Sanchez-Lopez, E.; Marto, J.; d’Ávila, M.A.; Ribeiro, H.M.; Foglio, M.A.; Souto, E.B.; Gava Mazzola, P. Flavonoid-Enriched Plant-Extract-Loaded Emulsion: A Novel Phytocosmetic Sunscreen Formulation with Antioxidant Properties. Antioxidants 2019, 8, 443.

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