Biodegradable Polymeric Core/Shell Nanoformulations Encapsulating Essential Oils: Physicochemical Design, Controlled Release, and Targeted Acne and Sebum Management
Abstract
1. Introduction
2. Essential Oils for Acne and Sebum Regulation
2.1. Antimicrobial Properties Against Acne-Causing Bacteria
2.1.1. Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis
2.1.2. Evidence of Antibacterial, Anti-Inflammatory, and Antioxidant Effects
2.2. Sebum-Modulating and Anti-Inflammatory Effects
2.3. Challenges of Direct Essential Oils Application
3. Core–Shell Nanoformulations: Concepts and Advantages
3.1. Definition and Structural Features
3.2. Eco-Friendly and Biodegradable Components
3.2.1. Natural Polymers
3.2.2. Green Synthesis Approaches
3.3. Benefits for Essential Oil Delivery
3.3.1. Enhanced Stability and Sustained Release
3.3.2. Improved Skin Penetration and Reduced Irritation
4. Types of Eco-Friendly Core–Shell Nanoformulations
4.1. Polymeric Nanocapsules
4.2. Lipid-Based Nanocarriers
4.3. Polysaccharide-Based Nanocarriers
4.4. Hybrid and Bioinspired Nanostructures
5. Recent Advances and Applications in Acne Management
5.1. In Vitro Studies
5.1.1. Antimicrobial Activity
5.1.2. Effects on Sebum-Producing Cells
5.2. In Vivo and Clinical Findings
5.2.1. Skin Compatibility
5.2.2. Clinical Improvement in Acne Symptoms
5.3. Comparative Analysis of Essential Oil Nanoformulations and Conventional Treatments
6. Safety, Toxicity, and Regulatory Considerations
6.1. Biocompatibility of Eco-Friendly Shell Materials
6.2. Irritation Potential Reductions via Encapsulation
6.3. Regulatory Hurdles for Natural Nano-Dermatological Products
7. Sustainability and Environmental Impact
7.1. Biodegradability of Materials
7.2. Green Chemistry in Synthesis
7.3. Reduced Reliance on Synthetic Antimicrobials
8. Challenges and Future Perspectives
8.1. Scaling up Green Synthesis Techniques
8.2. Standardizing Essential Oil Chemical Profiles
8.3. Integration with Smart-Release and Stimuli-Responsive Technologies
8.4. Potential for Personalized Dermatological Care
9. Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Data Availability Statement
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
Abbreviations
| DLS | Dynamic light scattering |
| DSC | Differential scanning calorimetry |
| FTIR | Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy |
| GC | Gas Chromatography |
| MS | Mass Spectrometry |
| MBC | Minimum bactericidal concentration |
| MIC | Minimum inhibitory concentration |
| MTT | 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide |
| NLC | Nanostructured lipid carriers |
| NPs | Nanoparticles |
| PLA | Polylactide acid |
| PLGA | Poly(lactide-co-glycolide) |
| PCL | Poly(ε-caprolactone) |
| PPAR | Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor |
| SEM | Scanning electron microscopy |
| SLN | Solid lipid NPs |
| TEM | Transmission electron microscopy |
| TGA | Thermogravimetric Analysis |
| UV-Vis | Ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy |
| XRD | X-ray diffraction |
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| Time Point | Pretreatment | 100 μg mL−1 | 50 μg mL−1 | 20 μg mL−1 | 5 μg mL−1 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2 hpi | OEO | 82.8 ± 6.95 | 15.5 ± 37.1 | 0 ± 0 | 0 ± 0 |
| TEO | 81.3 ± 14.1 | 62.8 ± 24.6 | 62.9 ± 20.3 | 24.1 ± 57.1 | |
| SEO | 72.2 ± 18.4 | 33.0 ± 44.8 | 11.6 ± 35.0 | 5.25 ± 14.6 | |
| 24 hpi | OEO | 92.9 ± 6.9 | 81.5 ± 25.6 | 38.1 ± 13.1 | 33.3 ± 66.7 |
| TEO | 90.8 ± 17.9 | 73.1 ± 1.6 | 49.6 ± 54.9 | 67.4 ± 18.5 | |
| SEO | 89.6 ± 9.4 | 32.5 ± 65.1 | 31.6 ± 63.3 | 38.5 ± 42.5 |
| Essential Oil | Reported Biological Activity |
|---|---|
| Citrus reticulata Blanco oil | Antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acne, Esterichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, and Bacillus subtilis. |
| Zanthoxylum schnifolium Sieb. Et Zucc oil | Antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus epidermidis. |
| Tea tree oil | Antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus epidermidis, Cutibacterium acnes, and Lactobacillus plantarum. |
| Citrus oil | Anti-inflammatory activity. |
| Origanum vulgare (oregano) oil | Antioxidant and antimicrobial activity. |
| Salvia fructicosa (sage) oil | Antioxidant and antimicrobial activity. |
| Thymus vulgaris (thyme) oil | Antioxidant and antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acne and Staphylococcus epidermidis. |
| Saposhnikovia divaricata oil | Anti-inflammatory activity. |
| Leonotis nepetifolia oil | Anti-inflammatory activity. |
| Type of Polymeric Nanocapsule | Examples of Polymers | Main Advantages | Main Limitations |
|---|---|---|---|
| Natural polymer–based nanocapsules | Chitosan, alginate, starch derivatives, gelatin, zein | High biocompatibility and biodegradability | Batch-to-batch variability |
| Derived from renewable resources | Lower mechanical strength | ||
| Often possess intrinsic bioactivity (e.g., antimicrobial, mucoadhesive) | High swelling in aqueous media | ||
| Suitable for dermal and biomedical use | Sensitive to pH and ionic strength | ||
| Possible uncontrolled release without crosslinking | |||
| Synthetic biodegradable polymer nanocapsules | PLA, PCL, PLGA | High structural stability | Often hydrophobic (limited compatibility with some actives) |
| Tunable degradation rate | Possible use of organic solvents during fabrication | ||
| Controlled and predictable release kinetics | Slower biodegradation in some cases | ||
| Good storage stability |
| Criteria | Polymeric Nanocapsules | Lipid-Based Nanocarriers | Polysaccharide-Based Nanocarriers | Hybrid & Bioinspired Nanostructures |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Raw Material Characteristics | Biodegradable polymers (e.g., PCL, ethylcellulose, chitosan) forming a polymeric matrix/shell | Natural lipids (solid + liquid) forming a lipid matrix core; biodegradable and inherently skin-compatible | Polysaccharides (alginate, chitosan, pectin) that self-assemble into shells via electrostatic or ionic crosslinking | Plant-derived phytochemicals used as reducing and capping agents to produce metal/metal oxide NPs (e.g., Ag, ZnO) with eco-friendly synthesis |
| May require organic solvents or surfactants | Often processed via high-pressure homogenization or sonication | Water-based processing | Bioinspired interfaces | |
| Encapsulation Efficiency | Moderate–High: | High: | Very High: | Not classic encapsulation |
| ~60–95% depending on polymer type and formulation method | Typically ~80–90% for lipophilic drugs and antioxidants due to good affinity with lipid matrix | ~90–95% reported for hydrophobic actives like curcumin (alginate) | Metal NPs do not encapsulate actives in the same way, instead provide capped/functionalized surfaces with high reactive payloads | |
| Effective for essential oils and lipophilic actives | Strong electrostatic capture in composite systems | |||
| Release Kinetics | Sustained, Diffusion-Controlled/Biphasic: | Sustained with Matrix Retention: | Controlled & Responsive: | Functional Release via Ion/Surface Activity: |
| Initial burst (surface-associated fraction) followed by slow polymer-controlled diffusion over hours to days | Gradual release from lipid matrix | Governed by polymer swelling, ionic exchange, and diffusion | Not diffusion through a polymer shell—biological action arises from surface ion release (Ag+, Zn2+) or ROS generation | |
| Matrix crystallinity and composition modulate rate | Sustained release over 24 h+ | |||
| Minimal burst | Responsive to pH/ionic strength | |||
| Skin Biocompatibility | Good–Very Good: | Very Good: | Excellent: | Variable Good: |
| Biodegradable polymers generally well tolerated | Lipid composition mimics skin lipids | Natural polysaccharides with strong cytocompatibility (HaCaT, fibroblasts) | High biocompatibility at safe concentrations | |
| Reduced irritation compared with free actives | Enhanced tolerability especially for irritant actives (e.g., retinoids) | Often anti-inflammatory | Green synthesis reduces toxic surface residues | |
| Chitosan adds mucoadhesion | Cytotoxicity must be validated per material | |||
| Interaction with Skin Barrier | Moderate penetration | Enhances stratum corneum lipid fluidization | Strong adhesion to skin surfaces | Functional effects often at or near surface |
| Appropriate for sustained topical action | Superior penetration into sebaceous layers | Effective accumulation in upper layers | Dependent on nanoparticle size and ion release dynamics | |
| Size can be tuned for follicular targeting | Variable penetration depth | |||
| Scalability | Nanoprecipitation, ionic gelation, interfacial polymer deposition (scalable) | High-pressure homogenization, probe sonication (well-established industrial methods) | Room temperature assembly | Green phytofabrication scalable |
| Spray-drying | Requires biological extract standardization | |||
| Simple electrostatic complexation |
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© 2026 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license.
Share and Cite
Syryczyk, W.; Bedkowska, K.; Pastrafidou, M.; Avranas, A.; Kartsonakis, I.A. Biodegradable Polymeric Core/Shell Nanoformulations Encapsulating Essential Oils: Physicochemical Design, Controlled Release, and Targeted Acne and Sebum Management. Polymers 2026, 18, 621. https://doi.org/10.3390/polym18050621
Syryczyk W, Bedkowska K, Pastrafidou M, Avranas A, Kartsonakis IA. Biodegradable Polymeric Core/Shell Nanoformulations Encapsulating Essential Oils: Physicochemical Design, Controlled Release, and Targeted Acne and Sebum Management. Polymers. 2026; 18(5):621. https://doi.org/10.3390/polym18050621
Chicago/Turabian StyleSyryczyk, Weronika, Kamila Bedkowska, Maria Pastrafidou, Antonis Avranas, and Ioannis A. Kartsonakis. 2026. "Biodegradable Polymeric Core/Shell Nanoformulations Encapsulating Essential Oils: Physicochemical Design, Controlled Release, and Targeted Acne and Sebum Management" Polymers 18, no. 5: 621. https://doi.org/10.3390/polym18050621
APA StyleSyryczyk, W., Bedkowska, K., Pastrafidou, M., Avranas, A., & Kartsonakis, I. A. (2026). Biodegradable Polymeric Core/Shell Nanoformulations Encapsulating Essential Oils: Physicochemical Design, Controlled Release, and Targeted Acne and Sebum Management. Polymers, 18(5), 621. https://doi.org/10.3390/polym18050621

