“It’s Years of Walking, of Reading the Forest”: White Truffle Hunters’ Perception of Socio-Ecological Change in Langhe and Roero, NW Italy
Abstract
1. Introduction
- Investigate the changing ecological conditions underpinning wild white truffle hunting.
- Assess the evolving modes of knowledge transmission and harvesting practices among local truffle hunters.
- Analyze local perceptions of the expanding tourism industry, particularly regarding gentrification and the commercialization of truffle hunting in the Langhe and Roero regions.
2. Materials and Methods
2.1. Fieldwork and Participant Selection
2.2. Data Collection and Analytical Framework
3. Results and Discussion
3.1. The Loss of Hunting Serendipity and the Ecological Estrangement in Truffle Landscapes
“I used to walk across this hillside with my eyes closed. Every tree, every root, every shadow was part of my map. Now, there are fences, walls, pools, and dogs that are not mine everywhere you go. Even my dog gets confused; he doesn’t recognise these places anymore because they have changed under his nose.”(M, 84, Roero)
“For fifty years, I have walked these paths. My father walked them before me, and my grandfather before him. Now, a small sign appears, saying I cannot enter anymore. But I know these places better than the people who bought them.”(M, 67, Alta Langa)
“When they prepare the land for hazelnuts, they dig so deep that they destroy everything underground. The roots, the water veins, the life under the soil, all gone. After that, you can forget about truffles. The land becomes dry, dead, a desert for mushrooms.” (M, 74, Roero). “There used to be music in the woods. The birds, the insects, even the fog moving among the trees. Now there is just emptiness. The vines take over, but they don’t sing.”(M, 76, Barbaresco)
“It is not the forest that has changed itself; it is people who have changed the forest. They are making money, building new villas, and expanding the vineyards all the way to the edge of what used to be sacred woods. And for us, there is nothing left but memories.”
“It used to be a dialogue with the woods; now it’s a race against others. The silence is broken, the peace is gone. I feel like a stranger in the places where I grew up.”(M, 59, Diano d’Alba)
“Before, I could sit for hours, listening, feeling the soil under my hands, smelling the damp leaves… now there is no time. People run with their dogs like it’s a sport, not a search.”(M, 75, Alba)
“When I was young, my father taught me to feel the breath of the earth. The cold, the humidity, even the wind had a meaning. Now the machines make noise, the ground is dry, the dogs are often confused.”(66, M, Alba)
“I no longer recognize the forest. The places have changed, the people have changed. It’s as if something inside me is dying as well.”(78, M, Verduno)
“Truffle hunting was a way to find balance. Without it, or with the way it has become, I feel anxious instead of peaceful. The woods no longer heal me.”(56, M, Dogliani)
3.2. The Disruption of Local Knowledge Transmission
“I walked with my grandfather before I could even speak. He never explained much. You learned with your feet, your nose, and your skin. My son says he feels lost in the woods. He doesn’t trust the air, and doesn’t know how to read the place. Maybe I didn’t teach him well, or maybe he never wanted to learn.”(M, 67, Alta Langa)
“You can’t learn this in one year. It takes decades of walking, failing, and paying attention. Today, they want everything fast. They watch videos, they read online, but the forest does not speak through a screen.”(M, 76, Barbaresco)
“He says: ‘I saw a video about truffle dogs on YouTube.’ But what can YouTube teach you? You don’t smell humidity through a screen. You don’t feel when the soil is breathing or when the roots are alive.”(M, 62, Monforte)
“When you teach a boy to hunt truffles, you’re not teaching him to find something. You’re teaching him to listen, to trust the dog, to respect the silence. You walk together, season after season. That’s how you learn. But now, they don’t have time for that. They want the truffle without the walk.”(M, 70, Alba area)
“I could tell my grandson where to go, but it wouldn’t help. The trees don’t speak to him. He never stayed long enough to hear them. You need years before a place accepts you.”(M, 84, Roero)
3.3. Gentrification, Spectacularizing, and the Commodification of Truffle Hunting
“Now they organise tours where they bury truffles in the morning and dig them up in the afternoon. The tourists clap, take photos, and smile for Instagram. But the dog learns nothing from this. And neither do the people. They come for the story, not for the forest.”(M, 54, Dogliani) (Figure 6)
“Now they call it ‘territorial valorisation.’ But who decides what has value? The restaurant owners? The tour companies? We are the ones who have lived this for decades. But in their story, we are just part of the scenery.”(M, 62, Monforte)
3.4. The Truffle as a Mirror of Social and Environmental Transformations
4. Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Institutional Review Board Statement
Informed Consent Statement
Data Availability Statement
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
References
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Area | Visited Locations | Age of the Study Participants | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
50–60 | 61–70 | >70 | ||
Langhe | Diano d’Alba, Dogliani, Alba, Monforte, Cortemia, Verduno, and Barbaresco | 4 | 11 | 6 |
Roero | Santa Vittoria and Vezza d’Alba | 0 | 1 | 3 |
Themes/Data Collection Focus | Data Sources/Methods | Inferred Analytical Questions |
---|---|---|
Truffle knowledge & harvesting practices | Semi-structured interviews with harvesters, participant observation, and informal conversations | How do harvesters describe their knowledge and practices related to truffle hunting? How has this knowledge been transmitted or disrupted? |
Affective & sensory experiences of the landscape | Interviews and participant observations during forest walks | How do harvesters experience and emotionally relate to the forest environment? What sensory changes are perceived due to environmental and social changes? |
Access to truffle grounds & legal/social restrictions | Semi-structured interviews | How have changes in access rights affected harvesters’ ability to forage? What conflicts or exclusions arise from land ownership and regulations? |
Ecological and environmental changes | Interviews, field observations, and ecological notes | What environmental changes do harvesters notice in the forest? How do these changes impact truffle abundance and quality? |
Economic and commercialisation dynamics | Interviews, market observations, and informal conversations | How is truffle harvesting commercialised? What economic pressures and market dynamics influence harvesting practices? |
Knowledge transmission and generational changes | Interviews, community discussions | How is traditional ecological knowledge transmitted across generations? What factors contribute to its erosion or persistence? |
Social conflicts and gentrification effects | Interviews, participant observation, and local media review | What social conflicts exist around truffle hunting? How does gentrification impact local harvesting communities? |
Theme | Subtheme | Mentions | Percentage of Participants |
---|---|---|---|
Ecological Estrangement | Loss of familiar landscapes | 22 | 85% |
Sensory disorientation (sounds, smells, textures) | 17 | 65% | |
Multispecies disconnection (dogs’ confusion, broken forest dialogues) | 15 | 58% | |
Dispossession and Exclusion | Privatisation and fencing of truffle grounds | 19 | 73% |
Loss of access to ancestral paths and commons | 16 | 62% | |
Economic and emotional displacement | 13 | 50% | |
Erosion of Knowledge Transmission | Generational discontinuity (youth disinterest, lifestyle mismatch) | 18 | 69% |
Disruption of embodied and affective pedagogy | 14 | 54% | |
Digital media replacing traditional learning | 11 | 42% | |
Commodification and Spectacularizing | Tourist-oriented performances of truffle hunting | 16 | 62% |
Truffle hunters as staged local figures | 13 | 50% | |
Forest as a sanitised backdrop | 12 | 46% | |
Emotional and Ontological Loss | Grief, alienation, and identity erosion | 20 | 77% |
Forest no longer offering healing, peace | 17 | 65% | |
Feeling of being a stranger in familiar spaces | 15 | 58% |
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Share and Cite
Alrhmoun, M.; Zanaria, M.; Elia, F.; Sulaiman, N.; Pieroni, A.; Corvo, P. “It’s Years of Walking, of Reading the Forest”: White Truffle Hunters’ Perception of Socio-Ecological Change in Langhe and Roero, NW Italy. Sustainability 2025, 17, 8053. https://doi.org/10.3390/su17178053
Alrhmoun M, Zanaria M, Elia F, Sulaiman N, Pieroni A, Corvo P. “It’s Years of Walking, of Reading the Forest”: White Truffle Hunters’ Perception of Socio-Ecological Change in Langhe and Roero, NW Italy. Sustainability. 2025; 17(17):8053. https://doi.org/10.3390/su17178053
Chicago/Turabian StyleAlrhmoun, Mousaab, Monica Zanaria, Federico Elia, Naji Sulaiman, Andrea Pieroni, and Paolo Corvo. 2025. "“It’s Years of Walking, of Reading the Forest”: White Truffle Hunters’ Perception of Socio-Ecological Change in Langhe and Roero, NW Italy" Sustainability 17, no. 17: 8053. https://doi.org/10.3390/su17178053
APA StyleAlrhmoun, M., Zanaria, M., Elia, F., Sulaiman, N., Pieroni, A., & Corvo, P. (2025). “It’s Years of Walking, of Reading the Forest”: White Truffle Hunters’ Perception of Socio-Ecological Change in Langhe and Roero, NW Italy. Sustainability, 17(17), 8053. https://doi.org/10.3390/su17178053