Antioxidant Constituents of Hops (Humulus lupulus L.) as Functional Raw Materials for Cosmetic Applications
Abstract
1. Introduction
2. Materials and Methods
2.1. Humulus Lupulus L. Extract
Qualitative Analysis Using High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC)
2.2. Formulation Strategies for O/W Emulsions Designed for Sensitive Skin Care
2.2.1. Technological Process Description for O/W Emulsions Formulated with and Without HL Extract
2.2.2. Qualitative Composition of the Designed Emulsions
2.2.3. Aging Tests of the Formulated Cosmetic Products
2.3. Evaluation of the Antioxidant Properties of the Hop Extract, Xanthohumol, and the O/W Emulsion Containing It
2.3.1. Determination of Antioxidant Activity Using the ABTS Method
2.3.2. Determination of Total Phenolic Content Using the Folin–Ciocâlteu Method
2.3.3. Determination of Antioxidant Activity Using the FRAP Method
2.4. In Vivo Skin Response to a Hop Extract-Enriched Emulsion After Induced Irritation
2.4.1. Panel of Participants
2.4.2. In Vivo Study Protocol
2.4.3. Non-Invasive Instruments for Skin Assessment
3. Results and Discussion
3.1. Characterization of Hop Extract by Liquid Chromatography
3.2. Accelerated Aging Tests of the Developed Cosmetic Products
3.3. Antioxidant Properties of the Hop Extract, Xanthohumol, and the HL-Enriched Emulsion
- ABTS test—determining the ability to neutralize the ABTS radical (2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid)); calibration curve equation: y = −1.5473x + 0.5875; R2 = 0.9961;
- Folin–Ciocâlteu method—used for the determination of total phenolic content; calibration curve equation: y = 0.0049x + 0.0142; R2 = 0.9992;
- FRAP test (Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power)—allowing the evaluation of the sample’s capacity to reduce Fe3+ ions to Fe2+ ions; calibration curve equation: y = 1.0195x + 0.1829; R2 = 0.9937.
3.3.1. ABTS Assay
3.3.2. Folin–Ciocâlteu Test
3.3.3. FRAP Assay
3.3.4. Antioxidant Activity of the O/W Emulsion Containing Hop Extract
3.4. Effects of an HL-Enriched Emulsion on Skin Barrier Recovery
3.4.1. Irritation Phase (W0–W1)
3.4.2. Regeneration Phase (W1–W3)
4. Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Institutional Review Board Statement
Informed Consent Statement
Data Availability Statement
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
Abbreviations
| ABTS | 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) |
| ABTS+• | ABTS Cation Radical |
| CPNP | Cosmetic Products Notification Portal |
| DSS | Dermal Sensitivity Syndrome |
| EC | European Commission |
| ESCOP | European Scientific Cooperative on Phytotherapy |
| FRAP | Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power |
| GAE | Gallic Acid Equivalents |
| GMP | Good Manufacturing Practice |
| HL | Humulus lupulus extract |
| HMPC | Herbal Medicinal Product Committee |
| INCI | International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients |
| ISO | International Organization for Standardization |
| O/W | Oil in Water Emulsion |
| ROS | Reactive oxygen species |
| SLES | Sodium Laureth Sulfate |
| TAS2R | G protein-coupled bitter taste receptors |
| TE | Trolox Equivalent |
| TEAC | Trolox Equivalent Antioxidant Capacity |
| TEWL | Transepidermal Water Loss |
| TPC | Total Phenolic Content |
| TPTZ | 2,4,6-tris(2-pyridyl)-s-triazine |
| UVB | Ultraviolet B |
| UV-Vis | Ultraviolet–Visible Spectroscopy |
| WHO | World Health Organization |
| W/O | Water in Oil Emulsion |
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| Time [min] | Phase A [%] | Phase B [%] |
|---|---|---|
| 0 | 80 | 20 |
| 3 | 80 | 20 |
| 33 | 25 | 75 |
| 37 | 0 | 100 |
| 40 | 0 | 100 |
| 47 | 80 | 20 |
| 50 | 80 | 20 |
| Compound | Retention Time [min] | Literature Range * [min] |
|---|---|---|
| humulinone | 6.812 | 5–8 |
| adhumulinone | 8.195 | 7–9 |
| iso-α-acids | 8.737 | 8–12 |
| iso-α-acids | 9.793 | 8–12 |
| xanthohumol | 31.621 | 10–25 |
| α-acids | 38.638 | 35–40 |
| isoxanthohumol | 39.483 | 35–40 |
| β-acids | 39.684 | 38–42 |
| Parameter | 4 °C | RT * | 45 °C |
|---|---|---|---|
| Appearance (visual assessment) | homogeneous, no phase separation | homogeneous, no phase separation | homogeneous, no phase separation |
| Odor (sensory evaluation) | characteristic of raw materials used | characteristic of raw materials used | characteristic of raw materials used, but more intense |
| Color (visual assessment) | white to pale yellow | off-white | white to pale yellow |
| Consistency (visual assessment) | light with a rich sensation | light with a rich sensation | light with a rich sensation |
| pH | 5.65 ± 0.01 | 5.61 ± 0.01 | 5.62 ± 0.02 |
| Parameter | 4 °C | RT * | 45 °C |
|---|---|---|---|
| Appearance (visual assessment) | homogeneous, no phase separation | homogeneous, no phase separation | homogeneous, no phase separation |
| Odor (sensory evaluation) | characteristic of raw materials used | characteristic of raw materials used | characteristic of raw materials used |
| Color (visual assessment) | white to pale beige | off-white | white to pale beige |
| Consistency (visual assessment) | light with a rich sensation | light with a rich sensation | light with a rich sensation |
| pH | 5.56 ± 0.02 | 5.63 ± 0.02 | 5.65 ± 0.01 |
| Concentration [wt.%] | Initial Absorbance [a.u.] | Final Absorbance [a.u.] | TEAC * [μmol TE/g] | Inhibition [%] | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hop extract (HL) | 1.0 | 0.6923 ± 0.0004 | 0.5289 ± 0.0024 | 17.4 | 24 |
| 2.0 | 0.3895 ± 0.0190 | 9.2 | 44 | ||
| 3.0 | 0.2594 ± 0.0061 | 3.3 | 63 | ||
| Xanthohumol | 0.1 | 0.6305 ± 0.0002 | 0.5657 ± 0.0502 | 14.1 | 10 |
| 0.2 | 0.4494 ± 0.0842 | 44.7 | 29 | ||
| 0.3 | 0.3910 ± 0.0178 | 45.3 | 38 |
| Concentration [wt.%] | Final Absorbance [a.u.] | TPC * [mg GAE/g] | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hop extract (HL) | 1.0 | 0.0628 ± 0.0186 | 0.99 |
| 2.0 | 0.0953 ± 0.0141 | 0.83 | |
| 3.0 | 0.1337 ± 0.0061 | 0.81 | |
| Xanthohumol | 0.1 | undetectable | --- |
| 0.2 | 0.0934 ± 0.0049 | 8.08 | |
| 0.3 | 0.1895 ± 0.0101 | 11.93 |
| Plant Material | TPC [mg GAE/g] | Comments | Literature Source |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hop (Humulus lupulus L.) | 69.70–95.95 | ethanol extract | [42] |
| 51.00–81.90 | ethanol extract | [43] | |
| 3.92–8.00 | water–ethanol extract (1:4) | [44] | |
| 0.51–6.60 | methanol, ethanol extract | [45] |
| Concentration [wt.%] | Final Absorbance [a.u.] | FRAP [µmol TE/g] | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hop extract (HL) | 1.0 | 0.2634 ± 0.0089 | 7.90 |
| 2.0 | 0.3719 ± 0.0127 | 9.27 | |
| 3.0 | 0.4800 ± 0.0196 | 9.71 | |
| Xanthohumol | 0.1 | 0.4157 ± 0.0107 | 228.3 |
| 0.2 | 0.6710 ± 0.0906 | 239.3 | |
| 0.3 | 0.8240 ± 0.0616 | 209.5 |
| Test Result | Literature Range | Literature Source | |
|---|---|---|---|
| TEAC [µmol TE/g] | 16.2 | 3.59–4.41 0.88–25.34 | [50] [51] |
| FRAP [µmol TE/g] | 68.3 | * | --- |
| TPC [mg GAE/g] | 0.351 | 0.02–1.47 | [52] |
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Dzienisik, M.; Marzec, M.; Nowak, I. Antioxidant Constituents of Hops (Humulus lupulus L.) as Functional Raw Materials for Cosmetic Applications. Materials 2026, 19, 821. https://doi.org/10.3390/ma19040821
Dzienisik M, Marzec M, Nowak I. Antioxidant Constituents of Hops (Humulus lupulus L.) as Functional Raw Materials for Cosmetic Applications. Materials. 2026; 19(4):821. https://doi.org/10.3390/ma19040821
Chicago/Turabian StyleDzienisik, Magdalena, Marta Marzec, and Izabela Nowak. 2026. "Antioxidant Constituents of Hops (Humulus lupulus L.) as Functional Raw Materials for Cosmetic Applications" Materials 19, no. 4: 821. https://doi.org/10.3390/ma19040821
APA StyleDzienisik, M., Marzec, M., & Nowak, I. (2026). Antioxidant Constituents of Hops (Humulus lupulus L.) as Functional Raw Materials for Cosmetic Applications. Materials, 19(4), 821. https://doi.org/10.3390/ma19040821

