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Article

Hair Growth Activity of Three Plants of the Polynesian Cosmetopoeia and Their Regulatory Effect on Dermal Papilla Cells

1
IFREMER, ILM, IRD, EIO UMR 241, Université Polynésie Française, BP 6570, F-98702 Faaa, Tahiti, French Polynesia
2
Institut Méditerranéen de Biodiversité et d’Ecologie Marine et Continentale (IMBE), UMR 7263 CNRS, IRD, Aix Marseille Université, Avignon Université, Station Marine d’Endoume, rue de la Batterie des Lions, 13007 Marseille, France
3
Greentech SA, Biopôle Clermont-Limagne, 63360 Saint-Beauzire, France
4
UMR 1019 INRA-UcA, UNH (Human Nutrition Unity), ECREIN Team, Université Clermont Auvergne, 63000 Clermont-Ferrand, France
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GReD Institute, Université Clermont Auvergne, CNRS, Inserm, Faculté de Médecine, CRBC, 63000 Clermont-Ferrand, France
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Aix Marseille Univ, CNRS, Centrale Marseille, FSCM, Spectropole, Service 511, Campus Saint-Jérome, 13397 Marseille CEDEX 20, France
7
Consultant in Forestry and Polynesian Botany, BP 52832, 98716 Pirae, Tahiti, French Polynesia
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Academic Editor: Panagiotis Zoumpoulakis
Molecules 2020, 25(19), 4360; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules25194360
Received: 22 August 2020 / Revised: 10 September 2020 / Accepted: 18 September 2020 / Published: 23 September 2020
Hair loss is becoming increasingly prevalent as dietary and living habits change. The search for natural products to limit hair loss has led to tapping into traditional cosmetic knowledge. We studied three plants of the Polynesian cosmetopoeia, Bidens pilosa, Calophyllum inophyllum and Fagraea berteroana, to determine their ability to promote hair growth. Their chemical content was characterized by liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Their proliferative activity on dermal papilla cells (DPCs) was assessed via MTT assay and molecular targets were evaluated by RT-qPCR analysis of seven factors involved in the modulation of the hair cycle, CCND1, LEF1, DKK1, WNT5A PPARD, TGFΒ1, PPARD and RSPO2. Our results show that our extracts significantly increased proliferation of dermal papilla cells. Furthermore, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed a diversity of molecules, flavonoids, iridoids and organic acids, some known for hair-inducing properties. Finally, specific extracts and fractions of all three plants either upregulated CCND1, LEF1 and PPARD involved in stimulating hair follicle proliferation and/or lowered the gene expression levels of hair growth inhibiting factors, DKK1 and TGFB1. Our findings suggest that extracts from B. pilosa, C. inophyllum and F. berteroana are interesting candidates to stimulate hair growth. View Full-Text
Keywords: Polynesian plants; ethnobotany; cosmetopoeia; dermal papilla; hair growth; Wnt Polynesian plants; ethnobotany; cosmetopoeia; dermal papilla; hair growth; Wnt
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MDPI and ACS Style

Hughes, K.; Ho, R.; Greff, S.; Filaire, E.; Ranouille, E.; Chazaud, C.; Herbette, G.; Butaud, J.-F.; Berthon, J.-Y.; Raharivelomanana, P. Hair Growth Activity of Three Plants of the Polynesian Cosmetopoeia and Their Regulatory Effect on Dermal Papilla Cells. Molecules 2020, 25, 4360. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules25194360

AMA Style

Hughes K, Ho R, Greff S, Filaire E, Ranouille E, Chazaud C, Herbette G, Butaud J-F, Berthon J-Y, Raharivelomanana P. Hair Growth Activity of Three Plants of the Polynesian Cosmetopoeia and Their Regulatory Effect on Dermal Papilla Cells. Molecules. 2020; 25(19):4360. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules25194360

Chicago/Turabian Style

Hughes, Kristelle, Raimana Ho, Stéphane Greff, Edith Filaire, Edwige Ranouille, Claire Chazaud, Gaëtan Herbette, Jean-François Butaud, Jean-Yves Berthon, and Phila Raharivelomanana. 2020. "Hair Growth Activity of Three Plants of the Polynesian Cosmetopoeia and Their Regulatory Effect on Dermal Papilla Cells" Molecules 25, no. 19: 4360. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules25194360

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