Search Results (49)

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are a major cause of skin aging, leading to oxidation and cleavage of collagen that supports skin structure. Previous studies have demonstrated that Magnolia officinalis var. officinalis (M. officinalis) dry extract reduces mitochondria-enriched ROS production and improves senescence-related phenotypes in vitro. However, its effects on human skin aging have not been investigated. In this study, we conducted both in vitro and clinical trials using an M. officinalis liquid extract, which can be directly applied to cosmetic formulations. The M. officinalis liquid extract restored mitochondrial function and reduced mitochondria-enriched ROS production. Furthermore, M. officinalis liquid extract activated mitophagy, which removes defective mitochondria, a major source of ROS production. In clinical trials, the M. officinalis liquid extract reduced the mean depth of neck wrinkles by 12.73% and the maximum depth by 17.44%. It also reduced the mean roughness (Ra), root mean square roughness (Rq), and maximum depth of roughness (Rmax) by 12.73%, 10.16%, and 10.81%, respectively. Furthermore, the key to the skin-improving effects of M. officinalis liquid extract lies in its ability to increase skin elasticity by 3.76% and brighten skin tone by 0.76%. In conclusion, this study identified a novel mechanism by which M. officinalis liquid extract rejuvenates skin aging. M. officinalis can be utilized as a cosmetic ingredient to improve skin aging and therapeutic candidate for the development of anti-aging treatments. Full article

This study developed a biodegradable dissolvable face mask incorporating liposomal kojic acid (KA) and licochalcone A from licorice extract (LE) to enhance skin delivery and performance. Liposomes were prepared by thin-film hydration method. The film matrix, composed of PVA/PVP/PEG400/HA, was optimized using factorial design to achieve suitable mechanical strength and rapid dissolution. The optimized mask, containing liposomal KA (1% w/v) and licochalcone A (0.025% w/v), was evaluated for antioxidant activity, ex vivo skin deposition, and short-term efficacy (Approval from the Institutional Review Board of Silpakorn University, Thailand; Ethics Approval No. REC 67.1001-146-7726/COA 68.0320-013 Date of registration: 20 March 2025). The optimized liposomes exhibited a mean particle size of 66–72 nm, entrapment efficiency above 65%, and a zeta potential of −12.5 mV (licochalcone A) and −1.67 mV (KA). Liposomal licochalcone A and KA showed potent antioxidant activity compared to their native forms. The optimized film dissolved within approximately 15 min on moist skin and showed favorable handling properties. Ex vivo studies revealed significantly higher skin deposition of both KA and licochalcone A from the liposomal mask compared with free and liposomal dispersions (p < 0.05). In a 7-day clinical evaluation, the mask significantly improved skin hydration and reduced melanin index (p < 0.05). No irritation or adverse reactions were observed, and user satisfaction was high. This liposomal dissolvable mask offered an effective, well-tolerated, and eco-friendly approach to enhancing skin brightness and hydration, supporting its potential as a sustainable cosmeceutical innovation. Full article

In this study, we report the isolation of the known compound 6-isoprenylindole-3-carboxylic acid (SJ196), a prenylated indole derivative, from a marine Streptomyces sp., APA053, and its potent anti-melanogenic activity. SJ196 showed ABTS and DPPH radical scavenging activities and cellular antioxidant activities, significantly suppressing cytoplasmic and mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS) in B16F10 murine melanoma cells. Furthermore, SJ196 reduced both intracellular and extracellular melanin content without cytotoxicity. These effects coincided with suppression of intracellular signal transduction for melanogenesis, significantly reducing phosphorylation of ERK, JNK, and p38 MAPK, and attenuating the expression of MITF and melanogenic enzymes (TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2). Importantly, in a three-dimensional human skin model (MelanoDerm™), SJ196 exhibited a skin-lightening effect, as evidenced by dose-dependent increases in skin brightness and histological confirmation. Collectively, we demonstrated that SJ196 is a potent anti-melanogenic marine compound that acts through antioxidant activity and MAPK-MITF pathway suppression, suggesting its therapeutic potential for the treatment of age-related hyperpigmentation disorders. Full article

Skin aging is accelerated by both environmental factors—including ultraviolet (UV) radiation and pollution—and intrinsic processes such as chronic inflammaging. N-carbamylglutamate (NCG), an arginine precursor known for its benefits for gut and reproductive health, has not been extensively studied in dermatological applications. To explore its suitability as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient, this study examines the protective role of NCG in counteracting UV-stimulated oxidative and inflammatory responses in skin cells. NCG significantly reduced UV-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS), indicating strong antioxidant properties. It also inhibited matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activity, preserving collagen integrity and reducing wrinkle formation. In addition, NCG suppressed nitric oxide (NO) production and downregulated key inflammatory mediators—including cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), and interleukin-6 (IL-6)—highlighting its anti-inflammatory potential. Furthermore, NCG reduced melanin production and the expression of melanogenesis-related factors such as the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2. These findings support the role of NCG as a promising multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, and skin-brightening properties. Full article

(1) Background: The pursuit of ingredients that possess both anti-melanogenesis and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) prevention effects has become a new research frontier in cosmetics, though there is little work on plant extract-derived ingredients in this direction. (2) Methods: The study involved evaluating the impact of dark tea extract on melanin content and tyrosinase activity in B16 cells. Meanwhile, Ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated assays were conducted on HaCaT cells to assess the secretion of inflammatory factors (IL-1α and IL-1β) and paracrine melanogenic factors (α-MSH, bFGF, and ET-1). Additionally, we performed quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) tests to determine whether the signaling pathways of anti-melanogenesis and PIH punctuation are incorrect. (3) Results: The results showed that dark tea extract significantly inhibited melanin content and tyrosinase activity in B16 cells. In HaCaT cells, the extract reduced the secretion of the aforementioned inflammatory and paracrine melanogenic factors, thereby inhibiting PIH. Moreover, the RT-PCR and the Western Blot results indicated that the dark tea extract could inhibit the melanogenesis signaling pathway of α-MSH/MC1R/MITF and their downstream multiple targets of TYRP-1, TYRP-2, and TYR in B16 cells, while it exerted a PIH inhibition effect by downregulating the p38 MAPK/Nrf2/HO-1 signaling pathway. (4) Conclusions: This study suggests that dark tea extract can not only suppress melanogenesis through multiple targets but also can inhibit UVB-induced PIH, hinting at its skin-brightening efficacy as an agent for the restoration of pigmentation disorders. Full article

Ferulic acid (FA) is a plant-derived phenolic compound recognized for its potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, with growing applications in health, food, and cosmetic sciences. This review presents a comprehensive overview of recent in vivo and clinical evidence, emphasizing its effects on metabolic syndrome (MetS) and its technological applications in food and cosmetics. FA has shown preventive and therapeutic potential in managing MetS by improving glucose and lipid metabolism, lowering blood pressure, reducing oxidative stress, and modulating inflammatory and microbiota-related pathways. In food systems, FA serves as a multifunctional additive, exhibiting antimicrobial activity, inhibition of lipid oxidation, stabilization of pigments, and protection of sensitive nutrients that extend shelf life and enhance nutritional quality. Its inclusion in cosmetic formulations further demonstrates synergistic photoprotective effects with conventional UV filters, antioxidant support for vitamins C and E, and anti-aging and skin-brightening properties, although formulation challenges remain. Collectively, FA’s pleiotropic actions and compatibility with clean-label trends highlight its value as a natural bioactive. Continued research on improving its stability, bioavailability, and clinical validation will support its broader integration into functional food, nutraceutical, and cosmeceutical products. Full article

Cnidium officinale (CO) and Angelica gigas (AG) are traditional herbal medicines known for their bioactive compound ferulic acid (FA), which exerts skin-whitening, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and UV-protective effects. However, conventional extraction yields are limited and often require solvent-intensive processes. In this study, an eco-friendly hot-melt extrusion (HME) process was applied to enhance the FA content and extractability from CO and AG. Process optimization significantly improved particle morphology and reduced size, as confirmed by Fourier transform-infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and field emission-scanning electron microscopy (FE-SEM) analysis. Quantitative High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis showed increased FA content in HME-treated extracts, which corresponded to enhanced biological efficacy. The HME extracts exhibited no cytotoxicity up to 500 µg/mL in B16F10 melanocytes and significantly inhibited α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin synthesis. In HaCaT keratinocytes, the HME group promoted superior wound closure at 24 and 48 h, indicating accelerated skin regeneration. These findings support HME as a sustainable and effective strategy for developing natural ingredient-based cosmetic formulations targeting hyperpigmentation and skin repair. Full article

Introduction: Skin aging is a multifaceted process influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors, resulting in visible changes such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity, uneven skin tone, and hyperpigmentation. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is widely recognized for its hydrating and structural support properties, while Vitamin C is known for its antioxidant and depigmenting effects. This study investigated the anti-aging efficacy of two topical formulations containing Jalubalance^® technology—HA delivered in Opuntia oil—with or without 1% Vitamin C. Background/Objectives: We conducted an 8-week, multicenter, randomized trial involving 91 women aged 30–50 years with mild-to-moderate photoaging. Participants were assigned to apply either HA-only cream (Group A) or a HA + Vitamin C cream (Group B) twice daily. The primary outcome was the percentage of subjects who achieved an improvement of at least one point in the hyperpigmentation score from baseline to week 8. Additionally, the study aimed to evaluate and compare the clinical and instrumental effects of both treatments, with a particular focus on improvements in wrinkles, elasticity, hydration, and pigmentation. Results: Both groups showed significant improvements across all measured parameters, including Glogau scores, wrinkle reduction, and skin elasticity. Instrumental analysis confirmed increased hydration and elasticity. Group B showed a significantly greater reduction in hyperpigmentation (−45%) compared to Group A (−31%, p < 0.05). At week 8, a ≥1-point reduction in hyperpigmentation score was observed in 56% of subjects in Group B and 30% in Group A (absolute difference: 26%; 95% CI: 5–43%; p < 0.05), highlighting the added benefit of Vitamin C on this parameter. Participant satisfaction was high, especially for the moisturization and brightening effects of both products. Conclusions: The topical application of Jalubalance-based creams effectively reduced signs of aging. The inclusion of Vitamin C provided enhanced benefits in reducing hyperpigmentation, suggesting its utility in personalized dermatological approaches for patients with pigmentation concerns. Full article

The growing demand for natural and sustainable skincare products has driven interest in plant-based active ingredients, especially from in vitro cultures. This placebo-controlled study investigated the impact of a facial cream containing 2% Kickxia elatine (L.) Dumort cell suspension culture extract on various skin biophysical parameters. The cream was applied to the cheek once daily for six weeks on 40 healthy female volunteers between the ages of 40 to 49. The evaluated skin parameters including skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema intensity (EI), melanin intensity (MI), skin surface pH, and skin structure, wrinkle depth, vascular lesions, and vascular discolouration. The results indicated that significant improvements were observed in skin hydration (from 40.36 to 63.00 AU, p < 0.001) and there was a decrease in TEWL score (14.82 to 11.76 g/h/m², p < 0.001), while the skin surface pH was maintained (14.82 to 11.76 g/h/m², p < 0.001). Moreover, the K. elatine cell extract significantly improved skin structure values (9.23 to 8.50, p = 0.028), reduced vascular lesions (2.72 to 1.54 mm², p = 0.011), and lowered skin discolouration (20.98% to 14.84%, p < 0.001), indicating its moisturising, protective, brightening, and soothing properties. These findings support the potential use of K. elatine cell extract in dermocosmetic formulations targeting dry, sensitive, or ageing skin. Full article

Objectives: Sialic acid (SA), a naturally occurring compound abundantly found in birds’ nests, holds immense promise for skincare applications owing to its remarkable biological properties. However, its low bioavailability, poor stability, and limited skin permeability have constrained its widespread application. Methods: To overcome these challenges, SA was encapsulated within nanoliposomes (NLPs) by the high-pressure homogenization technique to develop an advanced and efficient transdermal drug delivery system. The skincare capabilities of this novel system were comprehensively evaluated across multiple experimental platforms, including in vitro cell assays, 3D skin models, in vivo zebrafish studies, and clinical human trials. Results: The SA-loaded NLPs (SA-NLPs) substantially improved the transdermal penetration and retention of SA, facilitating enhanced cellular uptake and cell proliferation. Compared to free SA, SA-NLPs demonstrated a 246.98% increase in skin retention and 1.8-fold greater cellular uptake in HDF cells. Moreover, SA-NLPs protected cells from oxidative stress-induced damage, stimulated collagen synthesis, and effectively suppressed the secretion of matrix metalloproteinases, tyrosinase activity, and melanin production. Additionally, zebrafish-based assays provided in vivo evidence of the skincare efficacy of SA-NLPs. Notably, clinical evaluations demonstrated that a 56-day application of the SA-NLPs-containing cream resulted in a 4.20% increase in L*, 7.87% decrease in b*, 8.45% decrease in TEWL, and 4.01% reduction in wrinkle length, indicating its superior brightening, barrier-repair, and anti-aging effects. Conclusions: This multi-level, systematic investigation strongly suggests that SA-NLPs represent a highly promising transdermal delivery strategy, capable of significantly enhancing the anti-aging, barrier-repair, and skin-brightening properties of SA, thus opening new avenues for its application in the fields of dermatology and cosmeceuticals. Full article

Caffeic acid (CA) is a naturally occurring polyphenol antioxidant found in coffee, tea, fruits, and vegetables, known for its strong antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. However, its cosmetic application is limited because of poor dermal absorption due to its high polarity. This study aimed to evaluate the antioxidant and skin-brightening effects of a novel lipophilic CA derivative, CAD (caffeic acid-3,4-dihydroxyphenylpropanolester). CAD was synthesized by conjugating CA with 3,4-DHPEA, a lipophilic antioxidant derived from olive oil. In both DPPH and ABTS assays, CAD exhibited more potent antioxidant activity than CA. In B16F10 melanoma cells, CAD significantly inhibited melanin production without cytotoxicity at concentrations lower than those required for CA. Cellular assays using DCF-DA staining demonstrated that CAD effectively reduced intracellular ROS levels. Mechanistic studies revealed that CAD inhibited tyrosinase activity and downregulated the expression of TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2. Additionally, CAD suppressed MITF phosphorylation, along with reduced phosphorylation of ERK and JNK, elucidating its anti-melanogenic mechanism. Importantly, CAD showed dose-dependent skin-brightening effects in the 3D human skin model Melanoderm™, as evidenced by increased lightness and histological evaluation. In conclusion, CAD demonstrates strong potential as a safe and effective antioxidant and skin-brightening agent for cosmetic applications. Full article

Cannabis sativa L. has been traditionally used for its therapeutic properties, particularly in treating various skin conditions. This study explores the in vitro anti-aging potential of five distinct parts of C. sativa L. (inflorescence, seed, leaf, stem, and root) by analyzing their bioactive compounds and biological activities. Ultrasound-assisted extraction was employed using ethyl acetate as an extracting solvent, followed by chemical characterization via gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) and liquid chromatography quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (LC-QTOF-MS/MS) analyses. The biological assessment included antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase activities, and cytotoxicity evaluations. The inflorescence extract demonstrated the antioxidant activity, with a half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) value of 3,849.01 ± 5.25 µg/mL against DPPH radicals and 31.19 ± 0.96% inhibition of NO radicals at 1.25 mg/mL. Notably, the stem extract exhibited the highest anti-tyrosinase activity, with an IC₅₀ value of 0.01 ± 0.00 mg/mL, and significantly inhibited 5-lipoxygenase (5-LOX) activity with an IC₅₀ value of <0.024 µg/mL. All extracts showed no cytotoxicity on HaCaT cells at a concentration of 10 µg/mL, indicating their potential safety for dermatological applications. The stem extract was abundant in phytosterols, triterpenoids, diterpenoids, unsaturated fatty acids, and phenolic compounds, which likely contribute to its anti-inflammatory and anti-tyrosinase effects. These findings suggest that the stem, traditionally considered as waste, could be a valuable raw material for developing dermatological treatments with strong anti-inflammatory and skin-brightening effects. Full article

Lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate (LCC) is a synthetic substance obtained via lysine salification of S-carboxymethyl-cysteine. LCC has emerged as a promising glutathione (GSH) precursor. In this study, we sought to determine whether LCC could boost GSH levels and protect skin against oxidative stress. Experiments utilizing primary human keratinocytes and skin tissue samples revealed that LCC significantly increased endogenous GSH levels. LCC was able to pass through the stratum corneum and reach deep into the epidermis, where it enhanced the production of key metabolites involved in GSH biosynthesis. Then, the efficacy of LCC on skin protection was explored. LCC demonstrated protective effects by shielding keratinocytes from blue-light-induced oxidative stress and preventing ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced barrier disruption and pigmentation in a pigmented living skin equivalent (pLSE) model. In addition to its antioxidant properties, LCC also reduced the production of inflammatory mediators. Together, these findings underscore the multifaceted role of LCC in bolstering the natural antioxidant defenses of skin and preventing the accumulation of irreversible damage from the environment, thereby positioning it as a promising candidate for advancing skin health. Full article

Acne vulgaris is a dermatological condition characterized by the hyperkeratinization of sebaceous follicles, which can further lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Considering the intricate pathophysiology of acne, it is essential to develop novel topical therapies that are capable of targeting multiple underlying mechanisms of acne. The objective of this study was to study the effect of products containing retinol, niacinamide, ceramides, and dipotassium glycyrriszinate on acne-related markers. A total of 43 women with acne skin (including sensitive skin) were enrolled. To evaluate the effect of test products on acne-related indicators following 4 weeks of use, this study combined clinical assessments of skin condition (acne lesion counts), instrumental assessments (skin gloss), and photo tracking using VISIA-CR and Primos CR systems, which encompass metrics such as a*, ITA°, skin area (%) covered by sebum spots, and the presence of sebum spots. Adverse reactions were also assessed. After 4 weeks of treatment, significant reductions were observed in both the inflammatory acne lesion count and non-inflammatory acne lesion count, while there was also a significant decrease in skin redness a* and skin area (%) covered by sebum spots and a significant increase in skin brightness ITA° and gloss. No adverse events occurred during the entire testing process. In summary, the daily application of products containing retinol, niacinamide, and ceramides not only improves acne-related symptoms but also alleviates post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation caused by acne, which suggests that such products have the potential to meet the dual needs of brightening and acne care. Full article

Niacinamide, a derivative of vitamin B3, has been shown to reduce skin pigmentation (i.e., acting as a brightening agent) and inflammatory responses such as dermatitis and acne vulgaris. However, niacinamide is a hydrophilic compound and poor partitioning to the lipid matrix in the uppermost layer of the skin (the stratum corneum or SC) limits its delivery to the skin. This necessitates the use of penetration enhancers to increase its bio-availability. In this study, we used computer simulations to investigate the skin penetration of niacinamide alone and in combination with other brightening agents that are also shown to be skin penetration enhancers, namely undecylenoyl phenylalanine (Sepiwhite^®), bisabolol, or sucrose dilaurate. Molecular dynamics simulations were performed to reveal molecular interactions of these brightening agents with a lipid bilayer model that mimics the SC lipid matrix. We observed minimal penetration of niacinamide into the SC lipid bilayer when applied alone or in combination with any one of the three compounds. However, when all three compounds were combined, a notable increase in penetration was observed. We showed a 32% increase in the niacinamide diffusivity in the presence of three other brightening agents, which also work as penetration enhancers for niacinamide. These findings suggest that formulations containing multiple brightening agents, which work as penetration enhancers, may improve skin penetration of niacinamide and enhance the effectiveness of the treatment. Full article