Search Results (19)

Biomimetic peptides represent a growing class of active ingredients in modern cosmeceuticals, designed to mimic the function of the naturally occurring peptides involved in skin homeostasis, repair, and regeneration. Among them, acetyl hexapeptide-8 (AH-8), often referred to as a “botox-like” peptide, has received considerable attention for its potential to dynamically reduce wrinkles through the modulation of neuromuscular activity. AH-8 is widely used in topical formulations intended for anti-aging effects, scar treatment, and skin rejuvenation. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the structure and proposed mechanisms of action of AH-8, with particular focus on its efficacy and skin penetration properties. Due to its hydrophilic nature and relatively large molecular size, AH-8 faces limited permeability through the lipophilic stratum corneum, making effective dermal delivery challenging. Formulation strategies such as oil-in-water (O/W) and multiple water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) emulsions have been explored to enhance its delivery, but the ability of AH-8 to reach neuromuscular junctions remains uncertain. Preclinical and clinical studies indicate that AH-8 may reduce wrinkle depth, improve skin elasticity, and enhance hydration. However, the precise biological mechanisms underlying these effects—particularly the peptide’s ability to inhibit muscle contraction when applied topically—remain incompletely understood. In some studies, AH-8 has also shown beneficial effects in scar remodeling and sebum regulation. Despite promising cosmetic outcomes, AH-8’s low skin penetration limits its bioavailability and therapeutic potential. This review emphasizes the need for further research on formulation science and delivery systems, which are essential for optimizing the effectiveness of peptide-based cosmeceuticals and validating their use as non-invasive alternatives to injectable treatments. Full article

Objectives: This study aimed to identify and develop a novel, safe, and effective transdermal penetration enhancer derived from the leaves of Perilla frutescens (L.) Britt, and to explore the underlying mechanisms of its penetration enhancement effects. Methods: To evaluate the safety profile of the penetration enhancer, both skin irritation tests and histopathological analyses were conducted. The transdermal enhancement capabilities of the penetration enhancer were assessed in vitro using five model drugs. Furthermore, to gain insights into the penetration enhancement mechanism of this novel penetration enhancer, a range of analytical methods were used, including a spectroscopic technique, differential scanning calorimetry, micro-optical techniques, and molecular docking simulations. Results: Perilla essential oil contained 93.70% perilla ketone (PEK), which exhibited a safety profile superior to that of azone. PEK significantly increased the cumulative skin permeation of all the model drugs (p < 0.05). PEK exhibited the most obvious impact on puerarin penetration, with quantitative enhancement ratios of 2.96 ± 0.07 and 3.39 ± 0.21 at concentrations of 3% and 5% (w/v), respectively. A strong correlation between the enhancement effect of PEK and the physicochemical properties of the drugs was observed. Mechanistic studies revealed that PEK facilitates drug distribution from the solution phase to the stratum corneum (SC). Conclusions: PEK, seldom discussed in former studies, was observed to show extensive penetration enhancement effects by inducing conformational changes in SC lipids and disrupting the tightly ordered bilayer arrangement of lipids. These findings highlight the potential of PEK as a promising and safe natural transdermal penetration enhancer. Full article

Understanding the permeation of drugs through the intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum layer of skin is crucial for effective transdermal delivery. Molecular dynamics simulations can provide molecular insights into the permeation process. In this study, we developed a new atomistic model representing the multilamellar arrangement of lipids in the stratum corneum intercellular space for permeation studies. The model was built using ceramides in extended conformation as the backbone along with free fatty acids and cholesterol. The properties of the equilibrated model were in agreement with the neutron scattering data and hydration behavior previously reported in the literature. The permeability of molecules, such as water, benzene and estradiol, and the molecular mechanism of action of permeation enhancers, such as eucalyptol and limonene, were evaluated using the model. The new model can be reliably used for studying the permeation of small molecules and for gaining mechanistic insights into the action of permeation enhancers. Full article

The skin hydration level is a key factor that influences the physical and mechanical properties of the skin. The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the epidermis, is responsible for the skin’s barrier function. In this study, we investigated the role of a unique composition of Viola yedoensis extract for its ability to activate CD44, a cell-surface receptor of hyaluronic acid, and aquaporin-3, a water-transporting protein, in human keratinocytes (HaCaT). An ELISA assay evaluating the protein expression levels of CD44, aquaporin-3 (AQP3), filaggrin, and keratin-10 revealed that V. yedoensis extract upregulated the levels of CD44 and AQP3 by 15% and 78%, respectively. Additionally, V. yedoensis extract demonstrated a comparative effect on water vapor flux in TEWL and lipid perturbation in DSC versus the reference, glycerin. In light of this new biological efficacy, a detailed phytochemical characterization was undertaken using an integrated LC-HRMS/MS-based metabolomics approach, which provided further insights on the chemistry of V. yedoensis. This led to the identification of 29 secondary metabolites, 14 of which are reported here for the first time, including esculetin, aesculin, apigenin and kaempferol C-glycosides, megastigmane glycosides, roseoside, platanionoside B, and an eriojaposide B isomer, along with the rare, calenduloside F and esculetin diglucoside, which are reported for the first time from the genus, Viola. Notably, two active components identified in the V. yedoensis extract, namely, aesculin and schaftoside, showed an upregulation of the protein expression of CD44 in HaCaT cells by 123% and 193% within 24 h of treatment, respectively, while aesculin increased AQP3 levels by 46%. Aesculin and schaftoside also significantly upregulated the expression of K-10 levels by 299% and 116%, which was considerably higher than sodium hyaluronate, the positive control. The rationale used to characterize the new structures is outlined along with the related biosynthetic pathways envisioned to generate roseoside and Eriojaposide B. These findings provide new molecular insights to deepen the understanding of how V. yedoensis extract, along with the biomarkers aesculin and schaftoside, restores the skin barrier and skin hydration benefits. Full article

Skin barrier impairment is becoming increasingly common due to changes in lifestyle and modern living environments. Oily sensitive skin (OSS) is a condition that is characterized by an impaired skin barrier. Thus, examining the differences between OSS and healthy skin will enable a more objective evaluation of the characteristics of OSS and facilitate investigations of potential treatments. Initially, a self-assessment questionnaire was used to identify patients with OSS. Biophysical measurements and LAST scores were used to determine whether skin barrier function was impaired. Epidermal biophysical properties, including skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum content, erythema index (EI), and a* value, were measured with noninvasive instruments. We subsequently devised a noninvasive D-square sampling technique to identify changes in the skin metabolome in conjunction with an untargeted metabolomics analysis with an Orbitrap Q ExactiveTM series mass spectrometer. In the stratum corneum of 47 subjects, 516 skin metabolites were identified. In subjects with OSS, there was an increase in the abundance of 15 metabolites and a decrease in the abundance of 48 metabolites. The participants with OSS were found to have the greatest disruptions in sphingolipid and amino acid metabolism. The results revealed that an impaired skin barrier is present in patients with OSS and offers a molecular target for screening for skin barrier damage. Full article

Aedes mosquito-borne diseases remain a significant global health threat, necessitating effective control strategies. This study introduces monoterpenes-based nanohydrogels for potential use as repellents against Aedes aegypti, the primary dengue vector worldwide. We formulated hydrogels using cymene- and myrcene-based nanoemulsions with different polymers: chitosan, carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), and carbopol^®. Our evaluations of rheological, texture, and bioadhesive properties identified CMC hydrogel as the most promising gelling agent for topical application, exhibiting sustained monoterpene release over 12 h with low skin permeation and high retention in the stratum corneum. Myrcene-loaded CMC hydrogel achieved a 57% feeding deterrence compared to 47% with cymene hydrogel in the mosquito membrane-feeding model. Molecular docking studies revealed interactions between myrcene and an essential amino acid (Ile116) in the Ae. aegypti odorant-binding protein 22 (AeOBP22), corroborating its higher repellent efficacy. These findings suggest that myrcene-loaded CMC hydrogels offer a promising, minimally invasive strategy for personal protection against Ae. aegypti and warrant further investigation to optimize monoterpene concentrations for vector control. Full article

This work is the first one that provides not only evidence for the existence of free volumes in the human stratum corneum but also focuses on comparing these experimental data, obtained through the unique positron annihilation lifetime spectroscopy (PALS) method, with theoretical values published in earlier works. The mean free volume of 0.269 nm was slightly lower than the theoretical value of 0.4 nm. The lifetime τ₃ (1.83 ns with a coefficient of variation CV of 3.21%) is dependent on the size of open sites in the skin. This information was used to calculate the free volume radius R (0.269 nm with CV 2.14%), free volume size Vf (0.081 nm³ with CV 4.69%), and the intensity I₃ (9.01% with CV 10.94%) to estimate the relative fractional free volume f_v (1.32 a.u. with CV 13.68%) in human skin ex vivo. The relation between the lifetime of o-Ps (τ₃) and the radius of free volume (R) was formulated using the Tao–Eldrup model, which assumes spherical voids and applies to sites with radii smaller than 1 nm. The results indicate that PALS is a powerful tool for confirming the existence of free volumes and determining their size. The studies also focused on describing the probable locations of these nanospaces in SC lipid bilayers. According to the theory, these play an essential role in dynamic processes in biological systems, including the diffusion of low-molecular-weight hydrophobic and moderately hydrophilic molecules. The mechanism of their formation has been determined by the molecular dynamics of the lipid chains. Full article

Skin cancer, with all its variations, is the most common type of cancer worldwide. Chemotherapy by topical application is an attractive strategy because of the ease of application and non-invasiveness. At the same time, the delivery of antineoplastic agents through the skin is difficult because of their challenging physicochemical properties (solubility, ionization, molecular weight, melting point) and the barrier function of the stratum corneum. Various approaches have been applied in order to improve drug penetration, retention, and efficacy. This systematic review aims at identifying the most commonly used techniques for topical drug delivery by means of gel-based topical formulations in skin cancer treatment. The excipients used, the preparation approaches, and the methods characterizing gels are discussed in brief. The safety aspects are also highlighted. The combinatorial formulation of nanocarrier-loaded gels is also reviewed from the perspective of improving drug delivery characteristics. Some limitations and drawbacks in the identified strategies are also outlined and considered within the future scope of topical chemotherapy. Full article

Transdermal delivery provides numerous benefits over conventional routes of administration. However, this strategy is generally limited to a few molecules with specific physicochemical properties (low molecular weight, high potency, and moderate lipophilicity) due to the barrier function of the stratum corneum layer. Researchers have developed several physical enhancement techniques to expand the applications of the transdermal field; among these, microneedle technology has recently emerged as a promising platform to deliver therapeutic agents of any size into and across the skin. Typically, hydrophilic biomolecules cannot penetrate the skin by passive diffusion. Microneedle insertion disrupts skin integrity and compromises its protective function, thus creating pathways (microchannels) for enhanced permeation of macromolecules. Microneedles not only improve stability but also enhance skin delivery of various biomolecules. Academic institutions and industrial companies have invested substantial resources in the development of microneedle systems for biopharmaceutical delivery. This review article summarizes the most recent research to provide a comprehensive discussion about microneedle-mediated delivery of macromolecules, covering various topics from the introduction of the skin, transdermal delivery, microneedles, and biopharmaceuticals (current status, conventional administration, and stability issues), to different microneedle types, clinical trials, safety and acceptability of microneedles, manufacturing and regulatory issues, and the future of microneedle technology. Full article

Transdermal drug administration is an elegant method to overcome various side effects of oral or parenteral drug administration. Nevertheless, due to an effective skin barrier, which is provided by the stratum corneum, transdermal drug delivery is sometimes very slow and ineffective. Thus, the effect of a medical device (DERMADROP TDA) for transdermal penetration of drugs in conjunction with a special vehicle emulsion on percutaneous permeation of several substances (with different physicochemical properties) was investigated in Franz-type diffusion cells with porcine skin over 28 h. This medical device disperses pharmaceutical agents via oxygen flow through an application system, which is used in conjunction with specially developed vehicle substances. Substance permeation of various substances with different physicochemical properties (diclofenac, enrofloxacin, flufenamic acid, indomethacin, and salicylic acid) was examined after application with a pipette and with the medical device. Therefore, acceptor media samples were collected up to 28 h after drug administration. Drug concentration in the acceptor medium was determined via high-performance liquid chromatography. Enhanced permeation was observed for diclofenac, enrofloxacin, flufenamic acid, indomethacin, and salicylic acid after oxygen-based administration. This correlates negatively with the molecular weight. Thus, drug administration can effectively be enhanced by a medical device using oxygen. Full article

The crucial barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) depend critically on the design and integrity of its layered molecular structure. However, analysis methods capable of spatially resolved molecular characterization of the SC are scarce and fraught with severe limitations, e.g., regarding molecular specificity or spatial resolution. Here, we used 3D time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry to characterize the spatial distribution of skin lipids in corneocyte multilayer squams obtained by tape stripping. Depth profiles of specific skin lipids display an oscillatory behavior that is consistent with successive monitoring of individual lipid and corneocyte layers of the SC structure. Whereas the most common skin lipids, i.e., ceramides, C24:0 and C26:0 fatty acids and cholesteryl sulfate, are similarly organized, a distinct 3D distribution was observed for cholesteryl oleate, suggesting a different localization of cholesteryl esters compared to the lipid matrix separating the corneocyte layers. The possibility to monitor the composition and spatial distribution of endogenous lipids as well as active drug and cosmetic substances in individual lipid and corneocyte layers has the potential to provide important contributions to the basic understanding of barrier function and penetration in the SC. Full article

The search for new formulations for transdermal drug delivery (TDD) is an important field in medicine and cosmetology. Molecules with specific physicochemical properties which can increase the permeability of active ingredients across the stratum corneum (SC) are called chemical penetration enhancers (CPEs), and it was shown that some CPEs can act synergistically. In this study, we performed coarse-grained (CG) molecular dynamics (MD) simulations of the lidocaine delivery facilitated by two CPEs—linoleic acid (LA) and ethanol—through the SC model membrane containing cholesterol, N-Stearoylsphingosine (DCPE), and behenic acid. In our simulations, we probed the effects of individual CPEs as well as their combination on various properties of the SC membrane and the lidocaine penetration across it. We demonstrated that the addition of both CPEs decreases the membrane thickness and the order parameters of the DPCE hydrocarbon chains. Moreover, LA also enhances diffusion of the SC membrane components, especially cholesterol. The estimated potential of mean force (PMF) profiles for the lidocaine translocation across SC in the presence/absence of two individual CPEs and their combination demonstrated that while ethanol lowers the free energy barrier for lidocaine to enter SC, LA decreases the depth of the free energy minima for lidocaine inside SC. These two effects supposedly result in synergistic penetration enhancement of drugs. Altogether, the present simulations provide a detailed molecular picture of CPEs’ action and their synergistic effect on the penetration of small molecular weight therapeutics that can be beneficial for the design of novel drug and cosmetics formulations. Full article

A ceramide deficiency in the stratum corneum (SC) is an essential etiologic factor for the dry and barrier-disrupted skin of patients with atopic dermatitis (AD). Previously, we reported that sphingomyelin (SM) deacylase, which hydrolyzes SM and glucosylceramide at the acyl site to yield their lysoforms sphingosylphosphorylcholine (SPC) and glucosylsphingosine, respectively, instead of ceramide and/or acylceramide, is over-expressed in AD skin and results in a ceramide deficiency. Although the enzymatic properties of SM deacylase have been clarified, the enzyme itself remains unidentified. In this study, we purified and characterized SM deacylase from rat skin. The activities of SM deacylase and acid ceramidase (aCDase) were measured using SM and ceramide as substrates by tandem mass spectrometry by monitoring the production of SPC and sphingosine, respectively. Levels of SM deacylase activity from various rat organs were higher in the order of skin > lung > heart. By successive chromatography using Phenyl-5PW, Rotofor, SP-Sepharose, Superdex 200 and Shodex RP18-415, SM deacylase was purified to homogeneity with a single band of an apparent molecular mass of 43 kDa with an enrichment of > 14,000-fold. Analysis by MALDI-TOF MS/MS using a protein spot with SM deacylase activity separated by 2D-SDS-PAGE allowed its amino acid sequence to be determined and identified as the β-subunit of aCDase, which consists of α- and β-subunits linked by amino bonds and a single S-S bond. Western blotting of samples treated with 2-mercaptoethanol revealed that, whereas recombinant human aCDase was recognized by antibodies to the α-subunit at ~56 kDa and ~13 kDa and the β-subunit at ~43 kDa, the purified SM deacylase was detectable only by the antibody to the β-subunit at ~43 kDa. Breaking the S-S bond of recombinant human aCDase with dithiothreitol elicited the activity of SM deacylase with ~40 kDa upon gel chromatography. These results provide new insights into the essential role of SM deacylase expressed as an aCDase-degrading β-subunit that evokes the ceramide deficiency in AD skin. Full article

Anthocyanins are natural colorants with antioxidant properties, shown to inhibit photoaging reactions and reduce symptoms of some skin diseases. However, little is known about their penetration through the stratum corneum, a prerequisite for bioactivity. The aim was to investigate anthocyanin penetration from lipophilic cosmetic formulations through the skin using a porcine ear model and human volunteers. ATR-FTIR/PLS regression and HPLC-PDA-MS were used to analyze anthocyanin permeation through the stratum corneum. Penetration of all anthocyanins was evident and correlated with molecular weight and hydrophilicity. Lower-molecular-weight (MW) anthocyanins from elderberry (449–581 Da) were more permeable within the skin in both ex vivo and in vivo models (K_p = 2.3–2.4 × 10⁻⁴ cm h⁻¹) than the larger anthocyanins (933-1019 Da) from red radish (K_p = 2.0–2.1 × 10⁻⁴ cm h⁻¹). Elderberry and red radish anthocyanins were found at all levels of the stratum corneum and at depths for activity as bioactive ingredients for skin health. Full article

The terminal differentiation of the epidermis is a complex physiological process. During the past few decades, medical genetics has shown that defects in the stratum corneum (SC) permeability barrier cause a myriad of pathological conditions, ranging from common dry skin to lethal ichthyoses. Contrarily, molecular phylogenetics has revealed that amniotes have acquired a specialized form of cytoprotection cornification that provides mechanical resilience to the SC. This superior biochemical property, along with desiccation tolerance, is attributable to the proper formation of the macromolecular protein-lipid complex termed cornified cell envelopes (CE). Cornification largely depends on the peculiar biochemical and biophysical properties of loricrin, which is a major CE component. Despite its quantitative significance, loricrin knockout (LKO) mice have revealed it to be dispensable for the SC permeability barrier. Nevertheless, LKO mice have brought us valuable lessons. It is also becoming evident that absent loricrin affects skin homeostasis more profoundly in many more aspects than previously expected. Through an extensive review of aggregate evidence, we discuss herein the functional significance of the thiol-rich protein loricrin from a biochemical, genetic, pathological, metabolic, or immunological aspect with some theoretical and speculative perspectives. Full article