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Article

On the Estimation of the Wave Energy Period and a Kernel Proposal for the Peru Basin

1
Universidad Nacional de Ingeniería, Av. Túpac Amaru 210, Rímac, Lima 15333, Peru
2
Universidad Autónoma del Perú, Panamericana Sur Km. 16.3, Villa El Salvador, Lima 15842, Peru
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(6), 1100; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11061100
Submission received: 4 April 2023 / Revised: 4 May 2023 / Accepted: 16 May 2023 / Published: 23 May 2023
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Tidal and Wave Energy)

Abstract

:
The energy period is a crucial parameter needed for assessing wave energy. This parameter is regularly approximated using standard wave spectrums that do not always characterise an actual ocean region, even more if this region is far from the Northern Hemisphere, where most of the energy period approximations have been developed. In this work, diverse approximations for the energy period were evaluated using spectral data from a region of the Peru Basin. It included the assessment of a proposed Kernel “coefficient” curve. They were assessed regarding their time series, wave climate, and temporal variability. The time series analysis showed that the approximations based on the peak period do not have a realistic physical representation of ocean waves. On the other hand, the proposed Kernel correlation gave the best results for computing the energy period and the monthly/seasonal variability indexes for temporal variability analysis. Additionally, the correlations based on the zero-up-crossing period generated the best results for computing the coefficient of variation. Conversely, the highest errors were calculated for the correlations based on the traditional Bretschneider and JONSWAP spectrums. The wave climate indicated an annual average energy period equal to 9.8 s, considered stable due to its low variability.

1. Introduction

In the race to generate environmentally friendly electricity, the power from ocean waves is one of the most promising. Prior to the deployment of a wave energy farm, an accurate assessment of the wave energy resource has to be carried out. Wave power can be calculated based on diverse spectral parameters, such as the significant wave high and the energy period. Nevertheless, the last parameter, or failing that, the spectral wave density data, is only sometimes supplied by the buoy administrators. The state-of-the-art presents diverse approximations for the energy period, primarily based on the standard wave spectrums; however, they are not always representative of the actual ocean region of interest.
The Pierson–Moskowitz standard wave spectrum has often been used for fully developed sea states (open sea), while the JONSWAP spectrum has been used for partially developed sea states (fetch-limited sea) [1]. According to the open literature, several wave energy assessments have been carried out for open sea using the Pierson–Moskowitz or JONSWAP spectrum, for example, off the coast of Galicia [2], along the northwest coast of the Iberian Peninsula [3], off the coasts of the United States [4], and in the evaluation of the wave energy resources of the Peruvian sea [5].
A particular case is the assessment of offshore wave energy resources in the East China Sea [6]. That work assumed a JONSWAP spectrum following the presumption made by the wave energy resources assessment of off Canada’s coasts [7], the North Sea [8] and for the global study of the oceans [9]. Another case is the wave energy resource assessment for the Hawaii multimodal sea state [10]. It was based on the Pierson–Moskowitz spectrum because the International Electrotechnical Commission Technical Committee-114 (IEC TC-114) suggests using that spectrum to calculate wave energy when the energy period is not available. In contrast, the wave spectrum designed by the Atlantic Marine Energy Test Site (AMETS), Ireland, was found to fit relatively well for open water sites, as shown by the similarity of its spectral shape when compared with the Bretschneider spectrum [11].
According to the previous works, when there is no available spectral data, a predefined standard spectral form is selected; in most cases, the JONSWAP spectrum has been used. However, this assumption may considerably overestimate the wave energy during its assessment, as demonstrated by [12]. In that work, using a Bretschneider spectrum, the wave power of the Peru Basin was estimated to be almost 22 kW/m, in contrast to the 32 kW/m reported by [5], who used a JONSWAP spectrum. Even more, using standard spectrums primarily developed for the Northern Hemisphere does not guarantee an accurate assessment of the wave power, as shown by [13], who used spectral data of the Peru Basin for calculating wave power and found errors of up to 16% compared to the values calculated using standard spectrums.
To manage that issue, efforts have been made to mathematically model wave periods and spectrums. Ref. [14] presented an empirical altimeter wave period model based on the relationship between the wave period with the radar backscatter coefficient from satellite altimeter data and the significant wave height from buoy measurements. Later, ref. [15] developed a physical model for wave periods from altimeter data based on the weak turbulence theory of wind-driven waves. Thus, a peak period expression was presented from a relationship of instant wave characters (significant wave height variance and peak frequency) with wave responses (wave generation and dissipation). Similarly, ref. [16] proposed a model for wind wave dissipation based on the well-known Phillips spectrum [17]. The model considered the dissipation associated with the wave breaking, introducing a dissipation function dependent on the spectral energy flux. The function, expressed in terms of the energy spectrum, can be used for wave prediction.
Recently, a method based on inverse processes for modelling time-average frequency-directional spectrums was presented by [18]. An approximated wave spectrum is calculated from the definition of the zeroth-order moment, and this moment is computed from the definition of the significant wave height. Similarly, ref. [19] estimated wind wave zero-up-crossing period and significant wave height by implementing a stochastic simulation model. Generated time series were used to calculate wave power, assuming a linear relationship between energy and zero-up-crossing periods.
Numerical simulation of wave spectrum evolution in space and time by the spectral wave action equation [20] can be another alternative to manage the shortage of spectral data. In this context, ref. [21] simulated the French Atlantic and Channel coast using a wave generation and dissipation, bottom friction, and coastal reflection version of WAVEWATCH III (WWIII) [22]. Similarly, ref. [23] recalibrated WWIII modules for parameterizations of wind input, wave breaking, and swell dissipation terms. Thus, the modelled wave spectrums were validated against the Lake Michigan and 1-year global hindcasts. The models performed well in predicting significant wave height, wave period and representing high-frequency wave spectrum. Recently, ref. [24] evaluated spectral data (spectral variance density and mean spectral direction) generated by SWAN [25] and WWIII and compared them against Eastern Black Sea buoy measurements. The accuracy of the models showed dependency on the wave frequency range. Moreover, the estimated seasonal/annual averaged directional spectrums by SWAN matched the measurements better than those estimated by WWII.
In the present work, an evaluation of the diverse approximations for calculating the energy period of the Peru Basin is carried out. It includes using spectral data, local calibration coefficients, standard wave spectrums, and a proposed Kernel calibration curve. Moreover, a wave climate analysis of the energy period based solely on spectral data is also presented. The work also includes monthly and seasonal distributions of the energy period and its annual variability.
After Section 1, the introduction, this paper is divided as follows. Section 2 introduces the ocean data, used for the analysis and the modelling based on spectral data, and the tuning coefficients, used for estimating the energy period. This section also presents a Kernel regression as an alternative to improve the energy period estimation. Then, the calculation of the variability of the energy period is explained. In Section 3, an analysis of the energy, zero-up-crossing and peak periods and the temporal variability of the energy period is carried out and compared with those generated by the diverse approximations. Finally, the main findings and contributions of this work are summarised.

2. Materials and Methods

2.1. Spectral Data

The spectral data for this work were obtained from the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) [26], according to the spectral wave density information offered by Buoy 32012 deployed in the Peru Basin (Figure 1). The geographical location of this buoy is shown in Table 1, together with the sea depth at that position. The spectral data are provided hourly, containing a total of 52,608 sea states, with more than 99.3% of the data available from 2012 to 2017. Wave roses of wave power and significant wave height and scatter diagrams of relative frequencies and wave energy distribution using Buoy 32012 are presented in [27], which assessed wave energy resources in the Peru Basin.

2.2. Wave Period Modelling Based on Spectral Moments

The wave energy period or average period of component waves, Te (s), corresponds to the period of an equivalent single sinusoidal wave with the same energy as the sea state. According to the moments of the wave spectrum theory [28,29], Te can be estimated by:
T e = m 1 m 0
where m−1 and m0 are the spectral moments of order −1 and 0, respectively. Te is a crucial parameter needed for the calculation of wave power. However, the available historical standard meteorological data usually do not consider Te. Generally, they are limited to providing the significant wave height, peak period Tp (s), and zero-up-crossing period Tz (s).
The peak or dominant period corresponds to the frequency, in the spectral frequency band, with the maximum spectral density of a particular sea state. The zero-up-crossing period represents the average period of waves when they cross the mean sea surface level. This period can be calculated as follows:
T z = m 0 m 2
where m2 is the spectral moment of order 2.
The moment of order n of the variance spectrum (mn) or spectral moment is calculated as:
m n = 0 f n S ζ f d f
where Sζ is the omnidirectional wave spectrum or spectral variance density (m2/Hz) as a function of the wave frequency f (Hz). Wave spectral data consist of a finite number of components (k) of computed spectral energy density ( S i = S ζ f i i 1 , k ). Thus, for the sequential orders, the discrete form of the spectral moments is:
m n = i = 1 k 1 0.5 S i f i n + S i + 1 f i + 1 n f i + 1 f i

2.3. The Diverse Approximations for the Wave Energy Period

A series of coefficients correlating Te with Tz and Te with Tp can be calculated from the relation of the spectral moments defining Te and Tz, Equations (1) and (2), respectively, and the relation of Tp with the wave spectrum. In general, this procedure results in the following linear relationship:
T e = λ T k
where λ is the calibration coefficient that defines the relation between Te and Tk. The last can refer to Tp or Tz. λ depends on the wave spectrum and frequency.
In this context, an expected engineering practice is estimating Te assuming standard wave spectrums and using available wave periods when the buoy administrators do not provide spectral data. Thus, when the sea has characteristic of fetch limited, a sea not completely developed, the JONSWAP standard spectrum can be assumed, and the relation between Te and Tp is [29]:
T e = 0.89 T p
Now, if the sea is characterised as open, a sea wholly developed with a large fetch, the Bretschneider standard spectrum can be assumed, and the relation between Te and Tp is [30]:
T e = 0.857 T p
According to [9,31], the relation between Te and Tp goes from 0.86, broadband spectrums, to unity, narrowband spectrums, due to wave spectrum deformation in coastal seas. In this respect, ref. [32] considered λ equal to 1 for their preliminary assessment of wave energy resources in southern New England, similarly to [33] for analysing sea winds and land breeze effects on wave–wind energy in the nearshore of Tyrrhenian Sea.
Estimating Te from Tp using Equation (5) has been common practice in wave energy engineering. However, that can increase uncertainties for the cases of combined sea states: long-crested swell and short-crested wind waves with two energy peaks in the spectrum at low and high frequencies, respectively, a situation that a standard spectrum with a solitary peak period cannot capture. Several adjusted values for λ have been proposed to manage this situation, as described in [34].
Thus, for seas with large fetch (open sea) composed of waves generated by wind and swell waves, such as the Peru Basin, Tz is recommended to approach Te, as the former represents an actual physical mean wave period. For this situation, based on the Bretschneider standard spectrum, a relation between Te and Tz can be written as [30]:
T e = 1.2 T z
For calculating the UK continental shelf wave power, ref. [35] stated a λ equal to 1.14 for wind wave and swell, assuming a representative JONSWAP spectrum. This assumption was followed in assessing the wave energy resources of the Santa Catarina coastline, south of Brazil [36], as they considered it a more conservative approach. In turn, ref. [37] followed the previous work for a wave energy resource study of the Maldives islands, with even the original assumption of the JONSWAP spectrum characteristic of the UK territorial waters.
In contrast to analytical procedures and making the most of the spectral data available in the Peru Basin, ref. [13] calculated local calibrations coefficients using linear regression and adjusted them for high-energy sea states. These “new” calibration coefficients (NCC), as [13] called them, are used to approach Te as follows:
T e = 0.8 T p
T e = 1.25 T z
That work reported errors lower than 5% when validated utilising wave power calculated also using spectral data.

2.4. The Kernel Regression

The Kernel regression is a non-parametric localised regression method driven directly by data [38]. The idea is to predict the output at a specific point based on the observed data (inputs and outputs) near that specific point. The selection and influence of the data close to the specific point are achieved by the use of a Kernel function  Γ , calculated utilising a Gaussian distribution:
Γ x = 1 h 2 π e 0.5 x x i h 2
where xi is the vector of the k input data for training,  i 1 , k . x is each linearly spaced input value where the regression is calculated, and h is the Kernel bandwidth.
The estimated output value is computed by the weighted average of all input data points xi selected by the Kernel function. Thus, for each of k input datum, its respective weight W  0,1  is calculated as:
W i = Γ i = 1 k Γ i
Then, the weights are used to compute the estimated output value of the regression Y, i.e., for each x:
Y i = i = 1 k y i W i
where yi is the output and also training data corresponding to each xi.

2.5. Temporal and Monthly/Seasonal Variability

The coefficient of variation (CV) quantifies the amount of changeability of a particular variable for all time scales [9]. For this work, the variable under study was Te; thus, CV was calculated as follows:
C V = σ ( T e ) μ ( T e )
This parameter is computed regarding the analysed variable’s standard deviation σ and average value μ. In this work, Te was considered stable for CV lower than 0.2.
In contrast to the “all-time scales” CV, it is also possible to analyse the variability for defined short-time scales. Hence, concepts of monthly and seasonal variability index (MV and SV, respectively) are defined as:
M V = T e m m a x T e m m i n T e y e a r
S V = T e s m a x T e s m i n T e y e a r
where  T e m m a x  and  T e m m i n  represent the average Te of the highest and lowest energetic month (m). This index represents the non-dimensional maximum monthly variation in Te. A similar criterion is applied to SV (s season), and finally,  T e y e a r  is the annual average value of Te.

3. Results and Discussion

This section starts by analysing the energy, zero-up-crossing and peak periods. Then, a discussion about the diverse approximations for Te is performed, and an alternative using a Kernel regression is proposed. After that, the temporal variability of Te is analysed, and average values of Te and CV for monthly and annual time scales are presented together with their estimated values using the diverse approximations. Concluding this section, the monthly and seasonal variability indexes and their estimated values using the diverse approximations are discussed. Over this section, a wave climate analysis regarding Te is carried out.

3.1. Analysis of Time Series

The spectral data for computing the following time series came from Buoy 32012. They were selected from the beginning of 2012 to the end of 2017. This selection was due to the considerable data gaps outside the selected period. The calculated time series presented an unusual behaviour; the lowest values appeared during February 2014. It is hypothesised that this behaviour was due to the “El Niño” phenomenon [39] that happened that year.
Figure 2 presents the time series of the energy period calculated using the spectral moments according to Equation (1). The evolution of this period showed no notorious trend. Over time, Te had unusual values higher than 18 s and lower than 5 s. Mainly, Te varied from 7 s to 13 s.
A similar behaviour was presented for the zero-up-crossing period, Figure 3, again characterised by its unnoticeable trend over time. This period was also calculated based on the spectral data, with Equation (2). In contrast to the Te time series, Tz presented shorter values, mostly from 5 s to 11 s.
The previous Te and Tz time series presented a realistic behaviour characterised by the stochastic nature of the waves. On the other hand, Figure 4 shows the peak period time series obtained based on the spectral data but selected from the frequency corresponding to the highest value of the wave spectrum of a specific sea state, as explained above. Contrarily to the previous periods, Tp presented an unrealistic behaviour over the time domain. The curve profile presented a marked impact of the measurement frequency taken by the buoy. Even so, the range of this period was still trustable. However, its suitability oriented to the approximation of Te needed to be more credible.

3.2. Analysis of the Energy Period Calculation Using Diverse Approximations

As commented in Section 2.3, Te and spectral data are not always released by the buoy administrators, so diverse approximations for Te have been modelled to overcome this issue.
Figure 5 shows a scatter plot of Te calculated using the spectral moments, Equation (1), versus the Bretschneider Tz approximation, Equation (8). Even they can be correlated by linear regression, mostly the Bretschneider Tz approximation under estimate Te. Figure 6 presents the Bretschneider Tz approximation error, showing that the maximum errors exceed 25% (underestimation). If this calculation is carried out assuming the JONSWAP Tz approximation used by [35,36,37], higher underestimation errors are expected.
Figure 7 shows the scatter plot of the energy period calculated using the spectral data versus that calculated using the NCC Tz approximation, Equation (10). In contrast to the previous Bretschneider Tz approximation, the NCC Tz approximation presents some more overestimation. Figure 8 presents its approximation error showing maximum errors also higher than 25% (underestimation).
Contrary to approximate Te from Tz, utilising Tp generates unrealistic results. Figure 9 presents a scatter plot of the Te computed from the spectral data versus those using the NCC Tp approximation, Equation (9). Besides that, most of the results overestimate; they present a strong mark of the buoy measurement frequency. Figure 10 shows the approximation error of the NCC Tp correlation, presenting surprising errors higher than 100% (overestimation).
Carrying out the same exercise for the other correlations that use Tp, Equations (6) and (7), they generated similar behaviour for the results and worse errors (the JONSWAP Tp correlation presents errors of almost 125%). Thus, this analysis allows us to state that correlations that use Tp to approximate Te are not recommendable.

3.3. A Kernel Tz Approximation for the Peru Basin

Tz was again used to approximate Te, but this time utilising a Kernel regression, as presented in Section 2.4. Te and Tz computed using the spectral moments, Equations (1) and (2), were used for the training data xi and yi, respectively. A sequence from 0 to 24 s spaced by 0.001 s was used for the vector x. A value equal to 0.3 was selected for h after a tuning process. Once the Kernel regression process was concluded, a Kernel “coefficient” sequence was calculated by dividing the estimated Y by its respective x. Figure 11 shows the resulting Kernel “coefficient” curve. An almost linear behaviour of the Kernel “coefficient” corresponding to a range from 1.16 to 1.35 is noted from the figure. The Bretschneider and NCC coefficients to approximate Te from Tz, Equations (8) and (10), respectively, were located in that range. Moreover, less than 16% of Tz calculated based on the spectral data were inside that linear range (from 8.5 s to 13 s).
Figure 12 presents a scatter plot of Te calculated using the spectral data versus Te calculated using the Kernel “coefficient” curve. In contrast to the Bretschneider and NCC approximations using Tz, the energy periods were better distributed side by side with the symmetric axis. The error generated by this Kernel regression is shown in Figure 13. Similarly, the values were more uniformly distributed around the axis of errors equal to zero. Most errors were lower than 25%, over and underestimation.
In summary, the maximum error generated by each of the diverse approximations of Te is presented in Table 2. The lowest errors were those generated by the approximations based on Tz, which underpredicted Te. The Kernel Tz produced the best estimation of Te. In contrast, the highest errors were those generated by the correlations based on Tp, with shocking errors higher than 100%. As the table shows, the maximum errors occurred when estimates of two well-defined Te were tried with the approximations based on Tz for Te equal to 13.9 and Tp for Te equal to 7.0. Those situations happened at the end of 2017.

3.4. Analysis of Temporal Variability

In this subsection, an analysis of the wave climate and the temporal variability regarding Te is carried out for monthly and seasonal time scales.

3.4.1. Monthly Time Scale

Figure 14 shows the monthly distribution of average Te and CV calculated using the spectral moments (Equations (1) and (14)). Their numerical values are at the top, with CV in brackets. As the figure shows, the monthly average of Te started growing in January, reaching its highest value in May (10.7 s), then decreasing up to November (9.2 s). Based on this monthly distribution, an annual average of Te equal to 9.8 s could be calculated, as shown in Table 3.
This analysis was also carried out using the diverse approximations for Te, also summarised in Table 3. For Te’s annual average and extreme values (maximum and minimum), Kernel Tz presented the best results, followed by NCC Tp and NCC Tz approximations. The highest errors were from the approximations using the traditional Bretschneider and JONSWAP correlations. Again, the approximations based on Tz underpredicted the results, and those based on Tp overpredicted. It is worth pointing out that the NCC approximations were linear regressions adjusted to actual data, in contrast to the Bretschneider and JONSWAP coefficients calculated from idealised spectrums.
Based on the spectral data, May was computed as the month with the maximum Te, and each of the diverse approximations was able to reproduce it. On the other hand, the calculations for the month for the minimum Te were divided into two groups: one consisting of those based on Tz, calculating December as the month with the lowest Te, the month close to November as computed by the spectral data; and the other, consisting of those based on Tp, computing for August as the month with the lowest Te.
Regarding the monthly distribution of average CV (Figure 14), it grew quickly from the beginning of the year and reached its maximum value (0.202) in February. Then, it trended down and up again, reaching a new peak in September, and then declined to its lowest value (0.148) in December. From this distribution of CV, computed based on spectral data, an annual CV was calculated to be equal to 0.172, as shown in Table 4. This annual CV indicated that Te could be considered statistically stable.
The capability of the diverse approximations of Te to compute the previous values for CV was also tested. Table 4 shows that the Kernel Tz was not the best this time because a Kernel regression is a numerical smoother trying to approximate the best average value, losing information about the data dispersion. The best approximation was obtained by the correlations based on Tz because this is an actual physical characterisation of wave periods. One more time, the highest errors were computed by the correlation based on Tp, which is dependent on the buoy measurement frequency. For the extreme values, the correlations based on Tz computed the months close to those computed by the spectral data. In contrast, the correlations based on Tp calculated faraway months.
Figure 15 presents the generated error percentage for each month when comparing results from the spectral data versus those using the diverse approximations for the calculation of Te. In general, the approximations using Tp overestimated the results, and those using Tz underestimated, except for Kernel Tz. The best results were calculated using the Kernel Tz approximation. It presented a maximum error equal to 2.1% in August. It started underestimating at the beginning of the year, except in February, then overestimated from June to September, and then underestimated for the rest of the year.
Table 5 presents the maximum and minimum errors generated by each approximation. After the Kernel Tz approximation, those using the NCC coefficients generated the best results. The NCC Tp approximation generated the following, better, results, even using Tp. Significant high errors were those generated by the traditional Bretschneider and JONSWAP correlations, with the highest error generated by the JONSWAP approximation. Aside from the Kernel regression, the months in the table were divided into two groups. They were the months calculated from the correlations based on Tz and those based on Tp. There was an exception for the minimum error calculated by NCC Tp. For this approximation, the results showed its absolute values close to 0.4% for July and August.
Figure 16 presents the monthly distribution of the error percentage for calculating the monthly average of CV for each of the diverse approximations of Te. The results could be divided into three groups. First was the smoother Kernel regression, which lost the randomness of the wave period, so it was not able to give the best results, even being based on Tz. Second, the approximations based on Tz gave the best results due to the physical representation of wave periods captured by Tz, including their randomness. The last group included the approximations based on Tp that generated impressive errors due to the Tp dependence on the buoy frequency of measurements. This situation is reflected in Table 6, where the maximum and minimum errors for each Te approximation are presented with the respective month of occurrence. Again, aside from the Kernel regression, these months were divided into two groups based on Tz or Tp for the calculation of Te.

3.4.2. Seasonal Time Scale

Figure 17 shows the seasonal distribution of Te and CV. Te’s high values were in the middle of the year, with the highest in autumn (10.2 s). The low values of Te were at the beginning and end of the year, with the lowest in spring (9.4 s). From the seasonal distribution of Te, an annual average could be calculated, equal to 9.8 s. Regarding CV, the highest variability was presented in summer (0.187), and the lowest in spring (0.163). Similarly, an annual average CV equal to 0.175 was estimated from this CV distribution. The average seasonal distribution of CV indicated that Te had stable seasonal behaviour throughout the year. These seasonal results were consistent with the monthly distribution of Te and CV, as shown in Figure 14.
This analysis was also carried out with each of the diverse approximations of Te. A summary is presented in Table 7 and Table 8, showing the annual average, extreme values, and errors from each diverse approximations. The Kernel regression calculated the best results for Te’s annual average and extreme values, followed by the NCC correlation. The highest errors were calculated by the traditional Bretschneider and JONSWAP correlations. For the extreme values, the seasons presented in the table were consistent with those shown in Table 4, except for the season of the minimum Te calculated by the Tp approximations. The results for Tp indicated a minimum Te close to 11 s for spring and winter.
Regarding CV, Table 8, the approximations based on Tz calculated the best results due to the physical characteristic of Tz. The Kernel regression was not able to manage that because it was a smoother regression, and those based on the “imposed” Tp calculated the highest errors. It is said to be “imposed” due to the predefined measurement frequency of the buoy. For the extreme values, the seasons presented in Table 8 were consistent with the months presented for the extreme values in Table 4.
Figure 18 presents the seasonal distribution of the error percentage generated by each approximation of Te compared to those using the spectral data, Figure 17. Again, without considering the Kernel regression, the approximations based on Tz underestimated the results, and those using Tp overestimated. The best result was that generated by the Kernel regression, with the highest error lower than 2% for winter. The Kernel regression overestimated in winter and underestimated in the other seasons.
Table 9 presents the seasonal maximum and minimum error percentages generated by the diverse approximations of Te when compared against that using the spectral data, Figure 17. After the Kernel regression, the approximation that generated the best results was the NCC Tp, even better than those using Tz. The highest errors were computed by the traditional Bretschneider and JONSWAP approximations. These error percentages, their seasonal distribution, and the maximum and minimum error seasons were consistent with the monthly time scale results, Figure 15 and Table 5. There was an exception for the maximum error; summer and spring presented close values for the approximations based on Tp.
Figure 19 presents the seasonal distribution of error percentages for calculating CV by each of the approximations of Te. As in the case of the monthly time scale, they were divided into three groups: the approximation based on the Kernel regression, those based on Tz, and those based on Tp. The best result was calculated by the approximations based on Tz due to its physical representation of the randomness of the wave periods. It was followed by the Kernel regression, which smoothed the data dispersion, and the highest error was calculated by the approximations based on the “imposed” Tp.
The maximum and minimum errors of the seasonal distribution of CV by each approximation of Te are presented in Table 10. The three groups of errors explained above are also reflected there. The seasons for the maximum and minimum errors followed the months presented in Table 6, monthly time scale, except for the approximations based on Tz.

3.4.3. Annual Time Scale

Table 11 summarises the annual averages of Te and CV taken from the temporal variability time scales, monthly from Table 3 and Table 4 and seasonal from Table 7 and Table 8, which presented consistent results.
In order to double-check in these last results, an annual average was computed using all of the spectral data for the selected years, no longer by monthly or seasonal time scales. Table 12 shows these results, which are consistent with those in Table 11. Therefore, a Te equal to 9.8 s could characterise the Peru Basin, which can also be considered stable, as its CV is lower than 2%.
Table 12 also presents the error percentages for Te and CV calculated using the diverse approximations. Again, the best result was obtained using the Kernel regression for calculating the average Te. The NCC correlations followed it, and the traditional Bretschneider and JONSWAP approximations generated the highest errors. Similarly, for the average CV, the correlations based on Tz, except the Kernel regression, captured very well the original data dispersion that represented the variability, in contrast to the Kernel smoother and the correlations based on the “imposed” Tp.

3.5. Analysis of the Monthly and Seasonal Variability

Table 13 presents the results of the monthly variability of Te characterised by MV. According to the results from the spectral data, Te can be considered stable, as its MV is lower than 2%. Even so, the longest Te occurred in May, and the shortest in November. The best approximation was calculated by the Kernel Tz regression, with a percentage error lower than 2%. However, it calculated December as the month with the lowest Te, compared to November computed from the spectral data. This was because the Kernel Tz regression slightly underpredicted the minimum Te in the subsequent month.
Besides the Kernel Tz regression, the other approximations for Te were based on linear tuning of Tz and Tp. Thus, for this analysis, no differences in their results were expected within the groups of approximations using Tz and Tp. The approximations based on Tz calculated the minimum Te for December, and these based on Tp calculated the minimum Te for August. Conversely, all of the diverse approximations calculated May as the month with the maximum Te. Moreover, the approximations based on Tz had the best results after the Kernel Tz regression. On the other hand, the highest errors were calculated for the approximations based on Tp. Contrary to the Te variability analysis explained in Section 3.4, the approximations based on Tz overestimated, and those based on Tp underestimated the results.
Table 14 presents the results of the seasonal variability analysis of Te represented by its SV. The variability of Te could be considered stable, as its SV was lower than 2%, according to the calculations using the spectral data. The maximum seasonal Te was estimated for autumn, and the minimum for spring. The diverse approximations successfully reproduced these results. However, comparing with the monthly variability of Te, Table 13, the approximations based on Tp computed the minimum Te for August, that is, for winter.
Once more, the Kernel Tz regression calculated the best results, followed by the approximations based on Tz, and the approximations based on Tp generated the highest errors. Similarly to the monthly variability index, the approximations based on Tz overestimated, besides the Kernel Tz regression, and those based on Tp underestimated the results.

4. Conclusions

The question of what is the best estimation for Te at conditions different from those of the Northern Hemisphere was discussed in this paper. Spectral data from a buoy in the Peru Basin were used for this assessment. The linear relationships based on the traditional Bretschneider and JONSWAP standard wave spectrums generated substantially high errors. This situation indicates that they are unsuitable for conditions of open water and unlimited fetch, which characterise offshore regions of the South Pacific, such as the Peru Basin. Additionally, the linear relationships based on local calibration coefficients generated acceptable errors. However, one of their relationships was based on Tp, which, according to this analysis, does not resemble the physics of ocean wave periods because it relies on the frequency of buoy measurements.
On the other hand, this work proposed an approximation for Te based on a Kernel regression, presenting a Kernel “coefficient” curve. This Kernel approximation generated negligible errors for the calculation of average Te. Moreover, this work found that less than 16% of the Tz time series, calculated based on spectral data, were in the linear region of the Kernel curve. The coefficients of the linear relationships based on Tz were located in this region. Even so, this work showed that for calculating the variability of Te, the best CV results were calculated by the correlation based on Tz because it represented the actual wave period, including its randomness. However, if the variability has to be calculated using the variability index, the proposed approximation based on the Kernel regression generated the lowest error.
Based on the spectral data, Te and CV monthly and seasonal distributions computed a stable Te annual average equal to 9.8 s. In future work, a similar analysis regarding the impact of the diverse approximations of Te, including the proposal based on the Kernel regression, can be carried out for the assessment of wave power.

Author Contributions

Conceptualisation, D.D.L.T.; methodology, D.D.L.T. and A.O.; validation, D.D.L.T.; formal analysis, D.D.L.T. and A.O.; investigation, D.D.L.T. and A.O.; writing—original draft preparation, D.D.L.T.; writing—review and editing, D.D.L.T., J.L. and A.O.; supervision, J.L. and A.O. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of the manuscript.

Funding

This research received no external funding.

Institutional Review Board Statement

Not applicable.

Informed Consent Statement

Not applicable.

Data Availability Statement

The spectral data used in this work can be collected from the website of NDBC [26]. Data generated in this work are available from the corresponding author upon request.

Conflicts of Interest

The authors declare no conflict of interest.

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Figure 1. Location of Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin. The figure is taken from NDBC [26].
Figure 1. Location of Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin. The figure is taken from NDBC [26].
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Figure 2. Time series of the energy period calculated based on spectral data from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Figure 2. Time series of the energy period calculated based on spectral data from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
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Figure 3. Time series of the zero-up-crossing period calculated based on spectral data from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Figure 3. Time series of the zero-up-crossing period calculated based on spectral data from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
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Figure 4. Time series of the peak period taken from the sea state wave spectrums of Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Figure 4. Time series of the peak period taken from the sea state wave spectrums of Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
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Figure 5. Scatter plot of energy period, spectral data versus Bretschneider Tz, from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Figure 5. Scatter plot of energy period, spectral data versus Bretschneider Tz, from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
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Figure 6. Approximation error of Bretschneider Tz energy period from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Figure 6. Approximation error of Bretschneider Tz energy period from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
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Figure 7. Scatter plot of energy period, spectral data versus NCC Tz, from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Figure 7. Scatter plot of energy period, spectral data versus NCC Tz, from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
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Figure 8. Approximation error of NCC Tz energy period from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Figure 8. Approximation error of NCC Tz energy period from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
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Figure 9. Scatter plot of energy period, spectral data versus NCC Tp, from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Figure 9. Scatter plot of energy period, spectral data versus NCC Tp, from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
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Figure 10. Approximation error of NCC Tp energy period from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Figure 10. Approximation error of NCC Tp energy period from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
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Figure 11. The Kernel “coefficient” curve for the Peru Basin.
Figure 11. The Kernel “coefficient” curve for the Peru Basin.
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Figure 12. Scatter plot of energy period, spectral data versus Kernel Tz, from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Figure 12. Scatter plot of energy period, spectral data versus Kernel Tz, from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
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Figure 13. Approximation error of Kernel Tz energy period from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Figure 13. Approximation error of Kernel Tz energy period from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
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Figure 14. Monthly average of the energy period, standard deviation (blue) and coefficient of variation using spectral data from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin. Numerical values are at the top, and CV is in brackets.
Figure 14. Monthly average of the energy period, standard deviation (blue) and coefficient of variation using spectral data from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin. Numerical values are at the top, and CV is in brackets.
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Figure 15. Error percentage in calculating the monthly average of energy period using the diverse approximations.
Figure 15. Error percentage in calculating the monthly average of energy period using the diverse approximations.
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Figure 16. Error percentage in calculating the monthly average of coefficient of variation using the diverse approximations.
Figure 16. Error percentage in calculating the monthly average of coefficient of variation using the diverse approximations.
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Figure 17. Seasonal average of energy period, standard deviation (blue) and coefficient of variation using spectral data from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin. Numerical values are at the top, and CV is in brackets.
Figure 17. Seasonal average of energy period, standard deviation (blue) and coefficient of variation using spectral data from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin. Numerical values are at the top, and CV is in brackets.
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Figure 18. Error percentage in calculating the seasonal average of energy period using the diverse approximations.
Figure 18. Error percentage in calculating the seasonal average of energy period using the diverse approximations.
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Figure 19. Error percentages in calculating the seasonal average of coefficient of variation using the diverse approximations.
Figure 19. Error percentages in calculating the seasonal average of coefficient of variation using the diverse approximations.
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Table 1. Ocean Buoy 32012 deployed in the Peru Basin, providing historical data.
Table 1. Ocean Buoy 32012 deployed in the Peru Basin, providing historical data.
BuoyLatitude (° S)Longitude (° W)Sea Depth (m)
3201219.42585.0784524
Table 2. Maximum percentage error generated by each of the diverse approximations of Te. The table also presents the Te estimated and the date and time of occurrence taken from the spectral data of Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Table 2. Maximum percentage error generated by each of the diverse approximations of Te. The table also presents the Te estimated and the date and time of occurrence taken from the spectral data of Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
ApproximationMaximumSpectralWhen
Error (%)Te (s)DD/MM/YEAR HH:MM
Kernel Tz−30.613.902/11/2017 14:00
NCC Tz−36.013.902/11/2017 14:00
Bretschneider Tz−38.613.902/11/2017 14:00
NCC Tp98.47.029/12/2017 04:00
Bretschneider Tp112.57.029/12/2017 04:00
JONSWAP Tp120.77.029/12/2017 04:00
Table 3. Annual average, extreme values and error percentage from calculating the monthly average of energy period using spectral data and diverse approximations for Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Table 3. Annual average, extreme values and error percentage from calculating the monthly average of energy period using spectral data and diverse approximations for Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
ApproximationAnnualMaximumMinimum
Te (s)/Error (%)Te (s)/Error (%)MonthTe (s)/Error (%)Month
Spectral Data9.810.7May9.2November
Kernel Tz0.0−0.7May−0.5December
NCC Tz−6.9−6.5May−8.4December
Bretschneider Tz−10.7−10.2May−12.0December
NCC Tp3.30.7May5.4August
Bretschneider Tp10.77.8May12.9August
JONSWAP Tp14.912.0May17.3August
Table 4. Annual average, extreme values and error percentage from calculating the monthly average of coefficient of variation using spectral data and diverse approximations for Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Table 4. Annual average, extreme values and error percentage from calculating the monthly average of coefficient of variation using spectral data and diverse approximations for Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
ApproximationAnnualMaximumMinimum
CV/
Error (%)
CV/
Error (%)
MonthCV/
Error (%)
Month
Spectral Data0.1720.202February0.148December
Kernel Tz−15.2−16.0January−17.2November
NCC Tz−1.9−3.5January−8.8November
Bretschneider Tz−1.9−3.5January−8.8November
NCC Tp36.026.1September13.4May
Bretschneider Tp36.026.1September13.4May
JONSWAP Tp36.026.1September13.4May
Table 5. Maximum and minimum error percentage in calculating the monthly average of energy period using the diverse approximations.
Table 5. Maximum and minimum error percentage in calculating the monthly average of energy period using the diverse approximations.
ApproximationMaximumMinimum
Error (%)MonthError (%)Month
Kernel Tz2.1August−0.1October
NCC Tz−8.5March−4.9July
Bretschneider Tz−12.2March−8.7July
NCC Tp7.6November0.4July
Bretschneider Tp15.2November6.6August
JONSWAP Tp19.7November10.8August
Table 6. Maximum and minimum error percentage in calculating the monthly average of coefficient of variation using the diverse approximations.
Table 6. Maximum and minimum error percentage in calculating the monthly average of coefficient of variation using the diverse approximations.
ApproximationMaximumMinimum
Error (%)MonthError (%)Month
Kernel Tz−20.6September−5.4May
NCC Tz15.6May−1.8October
Bretschneider Tz15.6May−1.8October
NCC Tp67.4December7.8May
Bretschneider Tp67.4December7.8May
JONSWAP Tp67.4December7.8May
Table 7. Annual average, extreme values and error percentage from calculating the seasonal average of energy period using spectral data and the diverse approximations for Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Table 7. Annual average, extreme values and error percentage from calculating the seasonal average of energy period using spectral data and the diverse approximations for Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
ApproximationAnnualMaximumMinimum
Te (s)/Error (%)Te (s)/Error (%)SeasonTe (s)/Error (%)Season
Spectral Data9.810.2Autumn9.4Spring
Kernel Tz0.0−0.6Autumn−0.1Spring
NCC Tz−7.0−7.0Autumn−7.6Spring
Bretschneider Tz−10.7−10.7Autumn−11.3Spring
NCC Tp3.32.1Autumn5.2Spring
Bretschneider Tp10.79.4Autumn12.7Spring
JONSWAP Tp14.913.6Autumn17.1Spring
Table 8. Annual average, extreme values and error percentage from calculating the seasonal average of coefficient of variation using spectral data and the diverse approximations for Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Table 8. Annual average, extreme values and error percentage from calculating the seasonal average of coefficient of variation using spectral data and the diverse approximations for Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
ApproximationAnnualMaximumMinimum
CV/
Error (%)
CV/
Error (%)
SeasonCV/
Error (%)
Season
Spectral Data0.1750.187Summer0.163Spring
Kernel Tz−14.9−14.0Summer−16.5Spring
NCC Tz−1.4−2.4Summer−5.9Spring
Bretschneider Tz−1.4−2.4Summer−5.9Spring
NCC Tp35.032.1Spring27.9Autumn
Bretschneider Tp35.032.1Spring27.9Autumn
JONSWAP Tp35.032.1Spring27.9Autumn
Table 9. Maximum and minimum error percentages in calculating the seasonal average of energy period using the diverse approximations.
Table 9. Maximum and minimum error percentages in calculating the seasonal average of energy period using the diverse approximations.
ApproximationMaximumMinimum
Error (%)SeasonError (%)Season
Kernel Tz1.6Winter−0.1Spring
NCC Tz−8.3Summer−5.1Winter
Bretschneider Tz−11.9Summer−8.9Winter
NCC Tp5.4Summer0.8Winter
Bretschneider Tp12.9Summer7.9Winter
JONSWAP Tp17.3Summer12.1Winter
Table 10. Maximum and minimum error percentages in calculating the seasonal average of coefficient of variation using the diverse approximations.
Table 10. Maximum and minimum error percentages in calculating the seasonal average of coefficient of variation using the diverse approximations.
ApproximationMaximumMinimum
Error (%)SeasonError (%)Season
Kernel Tz−17.1Winter−12.1Autumn
NCC Tz−5.9Spring−1.7Winter
Bretschneider Tz−5.9Spring−1.7Winter
NCC Tp51.2Spring22.5Autumn
Bretschneider Tp51.2Spring22.5Autumn
JONSWAP Tp51.2Spring22.5Autumn
Table 11. Annual average of energy period and coefficient of variation taken from the monthly and seasonal time scale analysis using spectral data from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Table 11. Annual average of energy period and coefficient of variation taken from the monthly and seasonal time scale analysis using spectral data from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
PeriodTe (s)CV
Monthly9.80.172
Seasonal9.80.175
Table 12. Annual average of energy period and coefficient of variation by spectral data and the diverse approximations from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Table 12. Annual average of energy period and coefficient of variation by spectral data and the diverse approximations from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
ApproximationTe (s)/CV/
Error (%)Error (%)
Spectral Data9.80.178
Kernel Tz0.0−14.0
NCC Tz−6.9−0.1
Bretschneider Tz−10.7−0.1
NCC Tp3.332.8
Bretschneider Tp10.632.8
JONSWAP Tp14.932.8
Table 13. Monthly variability index, error percentage, maximum, minimum, and annual average energy period by spectral data and the diverse approximations from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Table 13. Monthly variability index, error percentage, maximum, minimum, and annual average energy period by spectral data and the diverse approximations from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
ApproximationMaximumMinimumAnnualMV/
Te (s)MonthTe (s)MonthTe (s)Error (%)
Spectral Data10.7May9.2November9.80.153
Kernel Tz10.6May9.1December9.8−1.9
NCC Tz10.0May8.4December9.112.9
Bretschneider Tz9.6May8.1December8.712.9
NCC Tp10.8May9.7August10.1−30.7
Bretschneider Tp11.5May10.4August10.8−30.7
JONSWAP Tp12.0May10.8August11.2−30.7
Table 14. Seasonal variability index, error percentage, maximum, minimum, and annual average energy period by spectral data and the diverse approximations from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
Table 14. Seasonal variability index, error percentage, maximum, minimum, and annual average energy period by spectral data and the diverse approximations from Buoy 32012 in the Peru Basin.
ApproximationMaximumMinimumAnnualSV/
Te (s)SeasonTe (s)SeasonTe (s)Error (%)
Spectral Data10.2Autumn9.4Spring9.80.087
Kernel Tz10.1Autumn9.3Spring9.8−6.3
NCC Tz9.5Autumn8.6Spring9.17.2
Bretschneider Tz9.1Autumn8.3Spring8.77.2
NCC Tp10.4Autumn9.8Spring10.1−34.4
Bretschneider Tp11.2Autumn10.5Spring10.8−34.4
JONSWAP Tp11.6Autumn10.9Spring11.2−34.4
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De La Torre, D.; Luyo, J.; Ortega, A. On the Estimation of the Wave Energy Period and a Kernel Proposal for the Peru Basin. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11, 1100. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11061100

AMA Style

De La Torre D, Luyo J, Ortega A. On the Estimation of the Wave Energy Period and a Kernel Proposal for the Peru Basin. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering. 2023; 11(6):1100. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11061100

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De La Torre, Dennys, Jaime Luyo, and Arturo Ortega. 2023. "On the Estimation of the Wave Energy Period and a Kernel Proposal for the Peru Basin" Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 11, no. 6: 1100. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11061100

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