Evaluation of the Skin Photoprotective Effect of Crataegus monogyna and Rosmarinus officinalis Extracts Using the Hemispheric Directional Reflectance Method

Near-infrared radiation contributes to photoaging through oxidative stress and matrix metalloproteinase activation. Botanical extracts with antioxidant properties may offer additional protection beyond conventional UV filters. To evaluate the effect of hydrogel formulations containing Rosmarinus officinalis and Crataegus monogyna extracts on the directional reflectance of human skin across various spectral ranges. Directional reflectance was measured on the forearm skin of healthy female volunteers before and after application of a base hydrogel and hydrogels containing plant extracts. Hyperspectral imaging was used across spectral ranges of 335–2500 nm. To assess the application properties, rheological and textural evaluation of extract-based hydrogels was performed. The obtained results are satisfactory and indicate the expected application effectiveness of hydrogels with C. monogyna and R. officinalis extracts. Significant reductions in skin reflectance were observed in the IR spectrum after application of both botanical formulations. Median reflectance decreased by 3.5% with rosemary and 2.3% with hawthorn in the 1000–1700 nm range, and by 17.8% and 20.3% respectively in the 1700–2500 nm range. No statistically significant changes were observed in the UV or visible light ranges. Hydrogels enriched with R. officinalis and C. monogyna extracts reduced infrared reflectance of the skin, suggesting potential as adjunctive agents in photoprotection. These findings support further investigation into extract-based formulations for IR-related skin damage prevention.