Sustainability of Masstige Brands’ Identitary Values

Abstract

Masstige fashion brands present a promising alternative to both luxury and fast fashion in the context of sustainability, offering an affordable yet prestigious option. However, these brands face the challenge of leveraging digital transformation tools while balancing prestige and accessibility. With its visual appeal, interactive features, and daily usage, Instagram Stories is a highly engaging communication tool for masstige brands. Despite its importance, ephemeral brand communication remains an underexplored area. This study investigates how young consumers interpret and decode Instagram Stories featuring human models from masstige fashion brands that represent identitary values Sexuality and Seduction, Seasonality, and Renewal. Using mind mapping and focus group discussions with 75 frequent Instagram users, findings reveal that audiences actively reinterpret brand messages, sometimes reshaping their intended meaning. Highly stylized celebrities led to skepticism or disengagement, while authentic, everyday portrayals fostered positive engagement. Sexualized imagery was often reframed as functional rather than aspirational. The study reveals that while brands aim to communicate identitary values such as Sexuality and Seduction, these are usually reinterpreted or even rejected by users in favor of values like comfort, simplicity, or emotional authenticity. Conversely, values like Seasonality, Renewal, and Quality were more consistently recognized and positively decoded, suggesting a more substantial alignment between brand encoding and audience perception in those domains.

1. Introduction

The global fashion industry is undergoing a significant transformation, driven by evolving consumer preferences and the rise in digital platforms. The State of Fashion report [1] highlights the growing competition in fast fashion and the necessity for brands to adapt to shifting consumer expectations. Alongside traditional luxury brands, which serve as symbols of exclusivity, masstige brands have emerged—offering broader accessibility without compromising prestige. Being accessible and still prestigious, the masstige brands also share identity values with luxury brands. The common inherent values for both luxury and masstige brands are exclusivity, sophistication, authenticity, accomplishment, and pride [2]. Masstige brands differ from luxury brands in terms of functional, financial, social, and individual brand values [3]. Luxury brands represent the fundamental values of heritage, timelessness, and esthetic pleasure, while values linked only to the masstige brands are Seasonality, Sexuality, and a sense of Renewal [4].

In the past decade, an increasing number of scholars have explored ephemeral content formats, such as Instagram Stories, as tools for engaging consumers in fashion-related communication [5,6]. Researchers have highlighted that ephemeral content supports sustainable communication by shifting focus from material consumption to experiential and emotional engagement [7,8]. Scholarly attention has also been paid to how ephemeral formats foster perceptions of authenticity and immediacy, which are considered key to promoting trust in sustainability claims [9,10]. Several studies investigated the strategic use of visual cues—such as color palettes, seasonal imagery, and natural elements—in Instagram Stories to implicitly convey sustainability values [11,12]. Furthermore, recent research has questioned whether the short-lived nature of ephemeral media can effectively sustain long-term sustainability narratives or merely serve as esthetic gestures [13,14]. Researchers emphasize that visuals used in Instagram Stories—such as minimalist design or natural esthetics—can implicitly convey sustainability messages without overt textual support [11,14]. These findings support the idea that Instagram Stories, despite their fleeting nature, may play a meaningful role in constructing and reinforcing brand identitary values in sustainability-focused communication.

Instagram, in particular, is highly relevant for masstige brands due to its visual storytelling capabilities and ability to foster brand communities. However, while many fashion brands utilize permanent Instagram content, such as curated feeds, the strategic role of ephemeral content (Instagram Stories) remains underexplored.

Assuming that repeated exposure via Instagram Stories reinforces the perception of values as part of brand identity, the following research questions were raised:

RQ1. What identitary values do masstige fashion brands aim to communicate through ephemeral content on Instagram Stories?

RQ2. How do users decode the identitary values embedded in Instagram Stories by masstige brands?

RQ3. To what extent is alignment or dissonance between brand-encoded identitary values and audience-decoded meanings in ephemeral visual content?

This study investigates how masstige fashion brands construct and communicate identitary values—such as Sexuality and Seduction, Seasonality, and Renewal—through ephemeral Instagram Stories. Drawing on semiotic theory and audience reception models, the research aims to determine whether viewers retain, reinterpret, or resist these brand-encoded meanings. In particular, the study examines the alignment or dissonance between what brands intend to convey and how users decode these messages. This focus is essential in ephemeral content, where rapid consumption and visual saturation challenge symbolic consistency.

The study uses association mapping techniques and focus group discussions to explore the research questions to capture how young consumers interpret brand visuals. These methods help reveal how effectively masstige brands maintain their symbolic identity in a fast-paced, image-driven communication environment and contribute to the broader discourse on sustainable fashion branding.

This study is structured as follows: Section 2 reviews the relevant literature. Section 3 outlines the methodology employed, participant sampling, and the description of the focus group sessions. In Section 4, the results are presented, as well as the interpretation of the results. We discuss our findings in Section 5. Section 6 concludes this study and offers practical recommendations based on the findings. The limitations and ethical considerations of this study are presented in Section 7.

2. Theoretical Background

2.1. Masstige Branding

The term masstige (mass + prestige) was introduced by Silverstein and Fiske (2003) to describe brands that offer elements of luxury but remain accessible to a broader audience [15]. Masstige brands are positioned between traditional mass-market products and luxury goods, maintaining a sense of exclusivity while being affordable.

The defining characteristics of masstige brands include prestige perception with a price affordable to the middle class. While masstige products may not meet luxury standards, they emphasize quality, craftsmanship, and brand storytelling to maintain desirability [16] and a highly experimental nature [17]. Scholars have explored various conceptualizations related to masstige, including new luxury [18] and mass-consumed luxury [19]; however, this study follows the masstige concept.

Social media allowed companies to foster sustainable consumer engagement through transparency and emotional resonance [9]. Studies confirm that social media platforms serve as primary sources of information for fashion consumers and are essential tools for brand marketing [20].

While masstige fashion brands often promote messages of quality, durability, and ethical awareness, scholars caution that this positioning may not always reflect actual sustainable practices. Critics argue that many masstige brands leverage esthetics and prestige narratives to project a sense of sustainability without significantly altering production practices [13,14]. This phenomenon—sometimes called “aesthetic sustainability”—raises concerns about greenwashing and performative branding, particularly on visual platforms like Instagram that reward surface-level storytelling. Masstige brands leverage the tension between ephemerality and archive cultures on Instagram Stories to dynamically convey Seasonality, Sexuality, and Renewal: the short-lived, 24 h narratives generate a sense of urgency and exclusivity for seasonal campaigns with provocative, sensual touches and are then preserved in “highlights” collections, creating a continuous, ever-evolving archive that mirrors the brand’s lifecycle. The rise in Instagram Stories reveals a tension between ephemeral content and archive culture, as the in-built affordances to archive Stories allow for the possibility to save ephemeral content in ad hoc folders called “highlights”, which are visible on each user’s profile [10]. This dissonance raises concerns that masstige branding may promote an image without delivering substantive impact, mainly when visual platforms like Instagram are used to emphasize lifestyle over the lifecycle.

In this article, identitary values are considered a representational system of masstige brands, as suggested by Kim et al. (2019) [4], and their use on Instagram Stories is accepted as a sustainable communication strategy.

2.2. Identitary Values of Masstige Brands

Unlike traditional luxury brands, which historically resisted digital marketing due to concerns about exclusivity, masstige brands actively embrace social media engagement to reach younger audiences [13,21]. However, in digital oversaturation, fashion brands must navigate abundant promotional content while striving to preserve their symbolic brand identity. From a postmodern perspective, symbols and representations are central to shaping the relationship between the brand and the consumer. As Felix et al. (2017) observe, social media offers brands a strategic choice: either to act as “explorers,” engaging in authentic, reciprocal interactions with multiple stakeholder groups, or to remain “defenders,” using social media merely as a one-way channel to broadcast curated messages [22]. These strategic orientations affect not only the depth of brand–consumer relationships but also the perceived authenticity of the brand’s symbolic communication.

Postmodernist Baudrillard (1994) discussed the relationship between reality, symbols, and society and coined the term simulacra, which represents the signs and symbols propagated by culture and media that shape an individual’s perceived reality and contribute to the constructed understanding of a coherent life experience [23]. Sandes (2023) contends that fashion brands employ simulacra in their Instagram imagery by referencing elements of nature to emphasize the comfort of their products or to evoke particular associative meanings [24]. Baudrillard (2016) also discusses consumer society and states that consumption is not simply acquiring numerous commodities for pleasure, self-fulfillment, or meeting individual needs [25]. Instead, it represents a system of signification—a coded structure of signs governed by unconscious social constraints. From this perspective, it can be stated that social media users are not only active participants in communication but consumers of sign systems as well. Firat and Dholakia (2006) emphasize that in the postmodern context, marketing professionals should adopt a collaborative rather than a top-down managerial approach when engaging with consumers [26]. Brand-related processes increasingly integrate public perspectives, allowing consumers to become active co-creators of meaning, identity, lived experience, and value.

Organizations undergo a fundamental transformation as the distinction between brand and consumer becomes blurred. Consequently, brand communication must be reconceptualized as a process of mutual symbolic construction—an interactive partnership between the brand and its audience. Identitary values can serve as a representational system while investigating the relationship between brand and its audience.

Freire (2014) introduced the “identitary values” which signify the characteristics of luxury [2]. Following this approach, Kim et al. (2019) aimed to identify identitary values of masstige brands versus those of luxury brands in their advertisements [4]. The common inherent values for luxury and masstige brands were exclusivity, sophistication, authenticity, accomplishment, and pride. The fundamental themes linked to the masstige brands are Seasonality, Sexuality, and a sense of Renewal [4]. It has also been found that masstige brands differ from luxury brands in terms of functional, financial, social, and individual brand values [3]. As outlined by Freire (2014), identitary values shape brand perceptions [2]. While luxury brands often rely on timeless visual cues to convey exclusivity and heritage, masstige brands prioritize contemporary appeal and seasonal trends. They frequently incorporate symbols of renewal and rebirth [4].

2.3. Sustainability of Masstige Brands’ Values

Instagram Stories represent a unique form of digital communication due to their short-lived nature, interactive features, and immersive storytelling capabilities. Unlike permanent posts, Stories disappear within 24 h, creating a sense of urgency and exclusivity [7]. This ephemerality enhances brand–consumer engagement and fosters a perception of authenticity, as users view Stories as less curated than traditional Instagram feeds [8].

Scholars highlight the dual role of ephemeral content in brand communication: exclusivity and urgency: limited availability enhances desirability [27]; authenticity: consumers perceive ephemeral content as more genuine than highly polished permanent posts [16]; interactivity: features like polls, stickers, and direct replies facilitate audience participation [28].

Elements such as Sexuality, Seduction, Seasonality, and Renewal shape masstige brand identity [4], with the latter two particularly emphasized in scholarly discussions.

Seasonality is crucial in the fashion industry, influencing consumer demand and purchasing behavior [29]. As temperatures fluctuate, consumers are more likely to purchase seasonal clothing to adapt to the changing weather conditions. This seasonal shift provides a unique opportunity for masstige brands to showcase their ability to blend style with practicality. While luxury brands often emphasize timeless elegance and enduring quality, masstige brands can capitalize on seasonal trends while maintaining a sense of sophistication and exclusivity. By offering stylish and functional clothing that aligns with the latest fashion trends, masstige brands can attract a wider audience and strengthen their brand identity.

Sexuality and Seduction have been used as a tool to promote products and services since the beginning of modern advertising [30]. Davenport and Beck (2001) argue that in the attention economy, sex is a highly effective attention-grabbing tool [31]. The use of sex in magazines has been noted to increase since 1964 [32,33,34]. Stankiewicz and Rosselli (2008) found that the highest percentage (from 1988 advertisements researchers found) of women shown as sex objects were in men’s magazines (75.98%), with the second highest number in adolescent girls’ magazines [35].

Sexuality in advertisements affects brand perception—the higher degree of sexuality contributes to the brand’s less conscientious and responsible image [36]. Sexuality in advertisements is usually represented by showing a woman, preadolescent, and teen girl [36]. Seduction can be related to a magical woman’s portrait [37]. The most common representations of women are as sex objects and victims [35]. Fredrickson and Roberts (1997) introduced objectification theory, explaining that objectified women are not meant to have individuality and personality [38]. However, scholars notice that the presentation of a woman as a powerless and sexy object hurts the consumers’ perception of an ad and the brand itself [39,40]. Current tendencies regarding women’s portrayal show that brands are more linked to showing women in powerful positions, and this sexual empowerment appeals to consumers and leads to positive attitudes towards the ads [41].

Renewal as identitary value is exposed through symbolic themes of rebirth and symbols, which signify youth. Such symbols include water, swimming pool [4], smile in the rain associated with hope, and waves [42]. Representation of renewal, in general, provokes the need for new trends and styles.

However, the visual presentation of identity values and how consumers recognize and decode them requires exploitation.

2.4. Uses and Gratifications Theory in Masstige Branding

A fundamental tenet of Katz et al.’s (1973) uses and gratifications theory is the concept of the active audience [43]. The uses and gratifications theory can be applied when several assumptions are satisfied: media use is goal-oriented, and audiences are active participants. Media competes with other sources to satisfy consumers’ needs. Users are self-aware of their motivations, and only users can evaluate the value of media content and gratification [44].

The theory suggests that people actively seek out media to fulfill specific needs, such as entertainment, information, social interaction, or personal identity [43].

Uses and gratifications theory converges with the identitary values [2] and the Wiedmann et al. (2007) four-value model to shape consumer engagement in ephemeral masstige brand content on Instagram [45]. From a uses and gratifications perspective, audiences consume short-lived visuals for various purposes—such as entertainment, exploration, perceived functionality, and novelty [46,47]—thereby activating different routes of processing outlined in the Elaboration Likelihood Model (central vs. peripheral) [48]. The identitary values become encoded within ephemeral brand posts, while consumers decode these messages and map them onto the Wiedmann et al. (2007) value dimensions: Financial, Functional, Individual, and Social [45]. Through this process, users derive emotional gratifications (e.g., self-enhancement, excitement) or pragmatic gratifications (e.g., product quality, creativity), enhancing personal relevance and brand meaning. Consequently, well-crafted ephemeral visuals can heighten affective commitment and interaction intentions—provided that the brand strategically integrates both hedonic and utilitarian cues, aligning short-lived Instagram Stories with users’ desires for entertainment, exploration, and perceived functionality in the broader masstige fashion context.

2.5. Encoding/Decoding Theory

Evans (1990) contributed by arguing that audiences are active interpreters of media content [49]. Audiences can be active in several ways: the first dimension is the qualitative orientation of audience members toward the communication process, and the second is a temporal dimension that concerns a particular time or phase of the communication process sequence [50]. Instagram users constitute an active audience, driven by a qualitative orientation toward content and the ephemeral nature of Stories, which creates a temporal dimension—the audience is engaged in real-time.

Therefore, this study raises the question of whether masstige fashion brands can sustainably communicate their unique identity values, such as Sexuality and Seduction, Seasonality, and Renewal, through ephemeral Instagram Stories and whether they can attract consumers to engage and decode the same values in real-time. Do brand-encoded meanings remain or are they reinterpreted or resisted by consumers?

3. Materials and Methods

3.1. Selection of the Brands

Brands chosen for this study have already been investigated by scholars as masstige fashion brands—Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Coach, Armani Exchange, Diesel [16,51]. These fashion brands were considerably suitable for the study—they all have active Instagram accounts, are worldwide known brands, and create content in English, which makes their communication understandable in the research area, Lithuania. Furthermore, all these brands are accessible and have their stores or departments in Lithuania. According to Statista.com (updated March 2024) [52], several of these fashion brands are considered to be key players in the luxury fashion brands market in Lithuania: Calvin Klein (8%), Michael Kors (3%), and Diesel (2%). This proves the popularity of chosen brands in Lithuania. The same source forecasts the increasing average revenue per capita of the luxury fashion sector (updated March 2024). Chosen brands were also recognized to be rated 14–80 in the Instagram fashion brands index, which refers to the number of followers these brands have. Finally, all the brands selected for the study have posted over 1500 archived posts with an average number of total posts of 2225 (information acquired on 28 October 2024,

Table 1. Instagram rates of studied brands.

Brand	Instagram Ranking *	Number of Followers **	Number of Posts **
Calvin Klein	14	25.6 M	1563
Ralph Lauren	24	16 M	8663
Michael Kors	18	19.3 M	7855
Coach	55	7.5 M	7730
Armani Exchange	-	2.6 M	5333
Diesel	80	3.3 M	2219

* https://fashionunited.com/i/instagram-fashion-index (accessed on 4 May 2025). ** Information acquired 28 October 2024.

).

3.2. Data Collection

Given the emerging nature of ephemeral social media research and the need for exploratory inquiry into the phenomenon [53], the problem was primarily qualitative. The unique blend of realms of the study necessitated a mixed-methods approach, as no single method could provide the depth of understanding required. A specific exploratory design [33] was chosen to delve into the complex nature of the subject matter.

This specific approach to investigating content and consumer perceptions was based on the theory of active audiences, which states that the audience constructs meanings over media texts and is an active participant. Consumers, with their understanding and creative thinking, are the most important. Therefore, divergent thinking was tested in association maps. A manual scraping technique was selected for the data collection of Instagram Stories [6]. The stories from selected brands were saved as screenshots and screen records.

All content was publicly available during data collection and was captured non-intrusively for academic purposes. Following the approach discussed by Bainotti et al. (2020) [6], ephemeral content was treated as publicly visible communication rather than private data. The Stories were sourced exclusively from globally recognized brand accounts, which use social media for marketing and brand communication, not from private individuals.

No scraping of private data was conducted, and no user identifiers, account names, or sensitive material were collected or analyzed. Although the content is designed to disappear after 24 h, it is often archived by brands in public Highlights or re-used across platforms, indicating its intentional durability and strategic purpose. The study followed the general principles of ethical digital research by saving the Stories during their active availability and using them in an aggregated, illustrative, and anonymized form. It did not infringe on any user’s privacy rights.

To control time-based influences [54] for the data collection of Instagram Stories, random days throughout the month were selected, and data collection was made in an expanded period from 18 March 2024 to 31 October 2024. The data was collected on 55 days and the distribution is as follows: 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24, 26, 27, 28, and 31 March; 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, and 24 April; May 8, 10, 11, 15, 22; 10, 28 June; 2, 5, 6, 14, 16, 19, 22, 24, 28, 29, and 30 July; 6 September; and 19, 20, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 30, and 31 October (

Table 2. Days of data collection.

Month	Days	Week Day
March	18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24, 26, 27, 28, 31	I, II, III, IV, V, VII, II, III, IV, VII
April	1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 24	I, II, IV, VI, I, II, III, IV, I, II, III, V, VII, II, III
May	8, 10, 11, 15, 22	III, V, VI, III, III
June	10, 28	I, V
July	2, 5, 6, 14, 16, 19, 22, 24, 28, 29, 30	II, V, VI, VII, II, V, I, III, VII, I, II
September	6	V
October	19, 20, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31	VI, VII, II, III, IV, V, VII, I, II, III, IV

). This data collection did not aim to find a pattern or to carry out the quantitative data analysis. Therefore, no extensive period was needed. However, it was aimed at covering all days of the week and the three mentioned seasons. The distribution by days of the week is as follows: I-8, II-11, III-11, IV-6, V-8, VI-4, VII-7. The distribution by seasons is as follows: Spring—30, Summer—13, Autumn—12. Avoiding the holiday season and Black Friday (end of November) was intentional—these are the most active buying seasons. Therefore, it can distort data. For further research, the analysis of these periods could be implemented separately.

The primary data coding was initiated at the time so that data saturation would be noticed. It was agreed that the focus on identitary values of masstige fashion brands [2] would serve as a basis for visual data collection. The data collection was stopped when data saturation was reached and all the identitary value categories were fulfilled. It can be referred to as theoretical saturation, as new data do not seem to contribute to the elaboration of these categories [55].

During data collection, both still images and video formats were saved in the form of screenshots and screen recordings. However, at a later stage, it was decided to focus on still images for this research for several reasons. Firstly, to maintain the integrity of the research. Secondly, to make the process more even and to maintain convenience for the participants. Finally, the decision provided more focus on the study, which helped to achieve more in-depth insights. Visual communication research noticed the need for distinction between image and video formats in research [56,57,58], which was taken into consideration as a significant factor.

A total of 350 Instagram Stories were collected when data collection was suspended. Stimuli preparation for the research was initiated. Several additional criteria were applied while collecting the data—the content had to be original, not a repost or shared post. Brand-owned media was chosen on purpose. Owned media was selected for this study as its primary goal is to strengthen the value-based identity of a brand [59]. The brand completely controls it; therefore, it can be a strategy. However, further exploration could investigate paid and earned media and their role in representing identitary values. After eliminating shared and earned media and video formats, 238 content units were left for the second stage.

3.3. Coding the Visuals

The analysis focused on sustainable communication, understood as content that audiences can recognize and decode based on embedded values. Rather than emphasizing promotional messaging or product-centric visuals, the study sought to identify visual patterns that signal authenticity and long-term relevance. In this context, the objective was not to compare brands directly but to explore how consumers interpreted and responded to value-driven messaging. Therefore, visual stimuli did not require extensive brand representation; instead, the emphasis was on decoding and how visual content communicates underlying values.

Content coding was implemented using denotative and connotative coding levels, as Bainotti et al. (2021) used [6]. The denotative level of coding contained two main stages. At first, the format was coded. The coding procedure was implemented individually by the two coders, and later, the results were assembled and all the misalignments were sorted by discussion with the researcher. The coding was made in Excel sheets—all the visuals were aligned and the coders had to write the codes nearby.

The second stage of denotative coding was visual codes: (a) content-related codes and (b) Instagram-specific digital objects [6]. Identitary values were considered to be content-related codes. Predefined observed variables were used in this coding level. Previous research in the field that is the ground of this work applied semiotics [2,4], a study of signs based on a relationship between an object (idea), a sign (communication vehicle), and an interpretant (meaning) [60]. Semiotic analysis of the Instagram Stories focused on the salient elements that immediately capture attention. Given the ephemeral nature of Stories and the short attention span of consumers, it was assumed that the most visually striking components would be the most influential. The existence of Instagram-specific digital objects was also coded. This included stickers (emoji, gif) and interactive stickers—like polls, where the audience can engage [6].

The Stories were analyzed both in denotative and connotative ways. In a denotative analysis, all the Stories were analyzed as independent variables, and the elements that appeared in them were considered. Applying a connotative level to the analysis broadened the scope and provided a contextual approach; when a couple of Stories were regarded as a series, they were assigned to the same value, even though the features of values did not appear distinctly in each.

Three identitary values specifically found to be masstige brands’ features—Seasonality, Sexuality and Seduction, and Renewal [4]—were chosen to be investigated.

It must be noted that some visuals represented several identity values. Therefore, all the identity values were considered latent variables with different definitions. To solve these complications, several steps were implemented. Firstly, the latent variables were transformed into more detailed observed variables. Secondly, the validation of another researcher was relied on.

The observed variable features a specific relationship between structures of variable and data; it should be deterministic, causally isolated, and equivalent cardinality (Borsboom, 2008) [61]. However, scholars notice that the distinction between latent and observed variables is epistemological—it is partly a function of the observer; therefore, observed variables can be latent variables in different contexts [61]. According to Borsboom (2008), determinism requires a causal chain—the relationship between the variable and the data (measurement) [61]. Causally isolated features of variables mean that the variable being measured should be the sole factor causing changes in the data patterns and there should be a one-to-one correspondence between the different data patterns and the different levels of the variable. Equivalent cardinality covers the condition that the number of unique data patterns should equal the number of distinct values or categories the variable can have. The observed variables played a pivotal role in identifying and organizing relevant data, ultimately contributing to the determination of data saturation [62].

When the qualitative content analysis was conducted and finalized, the preparation of the instrument for the qualitative research with focus groups was initiated. The research stimulus will be presented in the following sections and the choices will be explained.

3.4. Stimuli Preparation

Ha et al. (2017) classify fashion images into five major categories, selfie, body snap, marketing, product-only, and non-fashion, and find that body snaps and selfies receive much higher engagement than product-only visuals [63]. It shows the high relevance of the model depiction examination. Visuals selected for the research are all body snaps. To limit the study, only human-depicted visuals were chosen (Figure 1). Prior literature has shown that human models are the most effective way to represent fashion products online. This is supported by the PMF model, which compares person, mannequin, and flat representations [64]. Selfies receive much higher engagement than a product-only visual. It shows the high relevance of the model depiction examination. Jin et al. (2021) find that fashion brands’ Instagram posts featuring a person create a stronger sense of trust and social connection than those without [64].

The researcher selected the visuals, the final stimuli were validated by another researcher, and the final arguments were listed. The so-called “critical friend” method was employed, which involved a reflective approach [65]. The “critical friend’s” role was to encourage reflection and explore alternative explanations and interpretations as they emerged from the data [66]. The visuals were numbered for the convenience of participants.

3.5. Participant Sampling

A purposive homogeneous sampling technique was applied to the sampling of participants. Homogeneous sampling focuses on the similarity of candidates and how it relates to the research topic [67]. This sampling focuses on selecting candidates and takes them as independent samples [68].

Participants aged 18–25 living in Vilnius, Lithuania, were invited to this study by email. The respondents were asked in the email to respond only if they use Instagram at least weekly. Most selected participants (86.7%) reported daily usage of Instagram. A minority (6.7%) indicated usage every few days, while another 6.7% reported weekly frequent usage. The usage of Instagram was repeatedly confirmed when the respondents gathered for the focus group study. This demographically and behaviorally consistent sample was selected to minimize extraneous variability and enhance interpretative reliability in decoding ephemeral visual content. Familiarity with Instagram Stories as a format was essential to ensure meaningful and comparable interpretations of brand visuals. This approach was aligned with the exploratory and interpretive aims of the study, where randomization was unnecessary and theoretical generalizability was prioritized [68].

Given our emphasis on conceptual generalizability and theoretical exploration, random sampling is unnecessary [69]. While fashion consciousness significantly influences consumer choices and purchase intentions [70], this study did not require specific fashion knowledge. It was assumed that participants’ active Instagram usage was sufficient for understanding and listing associations of the visuals, regardless of their prior fashion expertise. After a person agrees to attend the research, they are assured that their confidentiality and anonymity will be maintained.

Six groups of participants (consisting of 6–21 students) were employed in this study. A total of 75 participants were enrolled in the research. Following Bevington (1996) and Smith & McGannon (2018) [65,66], focus group sizes in this study were adapted to ensure a context-sensitive and data-rich environment that supports interpretative depth [65]. In line with purposive sampling principles [67,68], group composition and size varied depending on participants’ exposure to brand communication and the relevance of their visual consumption habits [67].

As the meaning of luxury and therefore masstige is highly dependent on location [3], the research was organized in one particular country—Lithuania. Scholars notice that emerging markets are a proper place to study masstige brands for their middle class population [71]. This specific location was chosen to allow for in-depth observation of masstige brands within a particular economic and cultural context.

A total of 5 out of 6 group sessions were carried out in Lithuanian as the participants were Lithuanians. One group was mixed (Lithuanians and other nationalities living in Lithuania for a long time), so the research was carried out in English in this group. The questionnaire was modeled to be in both Lithuanian and English (the translations were provided for each question), so it was the same for all participants. For the mixed group, the introduction to the topic, explanation of the mind mapping technique, and discussion were carried out in English.

3.6. Focus Groups

The empirical part of the research was twofold—firstly, the participants made association maps, and then the open discussion was encouraged. The mind mapping technique was introduced by Tony Buzan in 1972 and referred to as a non-sequential technique for establishing logical relationships between diverse concepts [72]. A mind map is structured around a central idea, with subsequent ideas branching out in a hierarchical pattern [73]. Mind mapping is a popular learning technique that actively engages learners, leading to effective results [74]. Cognitive psychologists have introduced associative networks as a beneficial way to study associations, providing a clear understanding of their connections [75,76]. Brand marketing literature has explored later associations in the form of networks. Sometimes, brands can be associated with other brands, which shows that these brands may be perceived as similar to competitors [77,78]. Association maps were selected for this research to test the participants’ divergent thinking and reveal perceptions.

During the research, participants were provided with research stimuli—7 visuals—and were asked to make an association map of a selected visual. The mind map technique was presented to the participants in general traits—it was told that immediate associations should be listed in the first circle of the map and the following associations, provoked by existing ones, in the following circles. Respondents were not limited to the number of associations they listed nor their nature. To receive present answers, participants were encouraged to list the associations immediately, without long considerations or any time limits. Given the more in-depth nature of the association map methodology, which requires participants to spend more time exploring and connecting ideas, it was hypothesized that these maps would yield a more comprehensive and diverse range of associations. This contrasts with survey responses, which may provide more immediate, surface-level reactions. Therefore, it is anticipated that association maps would offer a more nuanced and complex understanding of perceived attractiveness.

After the association maps, study participants were invited to share their thoughts about the visuals they had seen and their choices. Participants could also express their ideas in written form, on a sheet, or by contacting a researcher and sending additional insights. The discussion was not recorded and notes were made.

4. Results

After the initial data coding, three identitary values of Seasonality, Sexuality, Seduction, and Renewal (according Kim et al., 2019 [4]) were identified in the Instagram Stories of global masstige fashion brands. These identitary values were selected for the visual stimuli and following research.

It is important to note that identitary values are often complex and multifaceted and expressed in various ways. As a result, a single visual representation may convey multiple identitary values. Additionally, some brands of the study were more strongly associated with specific identitary values than others, depending on their overall brand identity and message.

Regarding the association maps, the freedom to choose the visual provided participants the ability to demonstrate what visually most appeals to them. The leading visuals were numbers 5 and 6 (

Table 3. The selection of visuals for the mind maps.

Visual	Chosen Times
1	10
2	5
3	6
4	9
5	12
6	17
7	9

), encoding Seasonality as a core identitary value.

The associations listed in the association maps were systematically listed and coded to find groups of associations (

Table 4. Groups of associations.

Group of Associations	Example
Popularity	Cost of privacy, popularity, influencer, popular singer
Sexuality	Sexuality, feminine, body figure
Beauty	Beautiful woman, attractive, beauty standards
Fashion	Trends, style, tendencies, “must have”, cowboy style, festive outfit, good style
Illness	Depression, stress, illness
Comfort	Comfortable, comfort
Simplicity	Simple, minimalistic, simple style
Esthetically appealing	Matching colors, esthetically pleasing
Quality	Good quality, high quality, durable material
Luxury	Expensive, high income, investment
Classic	Black and white, classic, elegance, timelessness
Lifestyle	Work, everyday life
Seasonality	Winter, rain, Christmas
Emotion	Warmness, joy, coziness
Commercial	Ad, social media, commercial
Futurism	Fantasy world, robots, innovation, modern, magic, computer games
Nature	Sunset, red sky, flowers
Interesting	Unusual, interesting, original
Colors	Violet, pink, different colors
Personal exclusivity	Stylish, self-confident, creative

). The groups that emerged in the coding process are as follows: popularity (cost of privacy, popularity, influencer, popular singer), sexuality (Sexuality, feminine, body figure), beauty (beautiful woman, attractive, beauty standards), fashion (trends, style, tendencies, “must have”, cowboy style, festive outfit, good style), illness (depression, stress, illness), comfort (comfortable, comfort), simplicity (simple, minimalistic, simple style), esthetically appealing (matching colors, esthetically pleasing), quality (good quality, high quality, durable material), luxury (expensive, high income, investment), classic (black and white, classic, elegance, timelessness), lifestyle (work, everyday life), seasonality (Winter, rain, Christmas), emotion (warmness, joy, coziness), commercial (ad, social media, commercial), futurism (fantasy world, robots, innovation, modern, magic, computer games), nature (sunset, red sky, flowers), interesting (unusual, interesting, original), colors, personal exclusivity (stylish, self-confident, creative).

The goal of the coding was to distinguish topics that associations are grouped into to see the similarities in the responses and to form some categories. Visual 1 was associated with popularity, sexuality, beauty, fashion, and illness. Visual 2—comfort, simplicity, esthetic appeal, and fashion. Visual 3—popularity, quality, luxury, beauty, and fashion. Visual 4—simplicity, classic, luxury, lifestyle, quality, beauty, and fashion. Visual 5—seasonality, emotion, quality, luxury, fashion, and commercial. Visual 6—futurism, nature, interesting, emotions, colors, and fashion. Visual 7—fashion, luxury, personal exclusivity, lifestyle, and popularity (

Table 5. The summarized topics that emerged in the association maps.

Visual Nr.	Topics Identified
1	Popularity, sexuality, beauty, fashion, illness
2	Comfort, simplicity, esthetical appeal, fashion
3	Popularity, quality, luxury, beauty, fashion
4	Simplicity, classic, luxury, lifestyle, quality, beauty, fashion
5	Seasonality, emotion, quality, luxury, fashion, commercial
6	Futurism, nature, interesting, emotions, colors, fashion
7	Fashion, luxury, personal exclusivity, lifestyle, popularity

).

Visual 1 (Kim Kardashian) features no interactions, with the text “Kim Kardashian wearing a long slip dress in shiny stretch tulle from Diesel Spring Summer 2024 runway collection”. For this visual, a topic of popularity (reality show star, Instagram, popularity, easy money, sales, luxury, prestige, money, royalty, status) and many different brands as well as celebrities were listed (Kanye West, Skims, Pete Davidson, Balenciaga). It was found that participants had associations with stress, depression, and illness related to popularity and fame. Even though the brand is Italian, participants have listed such locations as the USA, Los Angeles, and Madrid. It can be concluded that the depiction of celebrity provoked associations by her general connotation in society, so it is highly needed to evaluate previous celebrity partnerships and their recognizability.

Some participants mentioned that without a text message, it would not be so clear which brand’s story it is. Besides various topics listed by participants in the form of associations, it was found that some people see it as esthetically pleasing, and some claim it is not appealing or appealing negatively. Participants underline the commerciality of such visuals. According to Stuart Hall’s theory of decoding position, it can be argued that participants have a negotiated position about this image [31]—people accept the image and perceive it positively, with a corresponding part of people who reject it.

Visual 2 with a web link sticker. The text on the visual states, “Minimalist micro”, “slip into lightweight, minimal coverage and maximal support”. Dominant topics of associations: comfort, simplicity, esthetic appeal, and fashion. Associations provoked by this visual were related to calmness and peace of mind (easiness, peace, safe space). Participants claimed it is cozy to see the visual, even though the model is partly naked. These thoughts provide us with a finding that sexuality and showing the naked body can be perceived as a positive strategy. Some respondents claimed that this visual encouraged them to buy high quality underwear.

Visual 3 represents a K-pop singer, Jenny, as a model sitting on the floor. The Story features an interactive element—a link sticker. The text on the visual: “JENNIE in the Barrel Fit Jeans and Modern Cotton Lightly Lined Bandeau Bra.” The main topics that were identified are popularity (Instagram, famous people, actors, singers), quality (high quality, good quality), luxury (famous brand, luxury brand), beauty (beauty standards, esthetically pleasing, naturalism), and fashion (style, simple blouse). It was found that more of the primary associations were around beauty standards and popularity, not mentioning sexuality.

Visual 4 represents a model posing with a white t-shirt and black pencil skirt. The Story features an interactive element—a link sticker. The text on the visual: “Refined Stretch Pencil Skirt. Versatile and sleek for your work week and beyond.” The main topics found in association maps after coding were simplicity, classic, luxury, lifestyle, quality, beauty, and fashion. Associations involved “Effortless look” and “aesthetic”, which can be perceived as positive associations.

Visual 5 represents a model with a half-face covered in a sweater. The Story features an interactive element—a link sticker. The text on the visual: Sweater Season. This visual represents the identitary value of Seasonality, which is clearly expressed via text and pictures. The associations found in association maps are seasonality, emotion, quality, luxury, fashion, and commercial. It must be mentioned that this picture was the only one representing a male model. Association maps clearly dominate seasonality, a unique feature of masstige brands. This visual has gained a lot of positive associations. It may be associated with nostalgic feelings, such as visual stimuli (family, childhood) and the fact that the model is smiling.

Visual 6 represents a story with a futuristic image. The Story features an interactive element—a link sticker titled “Summer of the Fringe”. This visual’s association themes after the coding: futurism, nature, interesting, positive emotions, colors, and fashion. This visual was the most popular choice among participants and had the most incredible depth on the map. Furthermore, the most remote associations found in this visual map are Christmas and football. It differs from other visuals with surreal elements. Many associations were focused on the colors of the visual and futuristic nature and the seasons (Summer, Spring, and Winter were mentioned).

Visual 7 represents Coach’s Story with model Bella Hadid. The Story contains no interactive features, only the following text: “#BellaHadid out and about in NYC with our Brooklyn Shoulder Bag 39. Gotham/Getty Images”. This visual was selected from the “others” section as it was not referred to any identitary value. Instead, it was assumed that it depicted a lifestyle that was found to be relevant on companies’ websites. This visual differs from others as it is a mix of two pictures. It is not a photoshoot-style picture but rather a paparazzi-style shot. The main themes of associations listed by participants in their association maps are fashion, luxury, personal exclusivity, lifestyle, and popularity (

Table 6. Decodings of visuals.

Visual Nr.	Identitary Values (Encodings)	Associations Decodings
1	Sexuality and Seduction	Popularity, sexuality, beauty, fashion, illness
2	Sexuality and Seduction	Comfort, simplicity, esthetical appeal, fashion
3	Sexuality and Seduction	Popularity, quality, luxury, beauty, fashion
4	Sexuality and Seduction	Simplicity, classic, luxury, lifestyle, quality, beauty, fashion
5	Seasonality	Seasonality, emotion, quality, luxury, fashion, commercial
6	Seasonality	Futurism, nature, interesting, emotions, colors, fashion
7	Renewal	Fashion, luxury, personal exclusivity, lifestyle, popularity

).

Even though respondents listed associations freely, topics of general associations emerged. It can be concluded that the new meanings of visuals were created by employing the divergent thinking of participants.

These findings, derived from an association mapping technique, illuminate how participants interpret each visual (labeled with a particular identitary value) through overlapping and sometimes unexpected associations. For instance, images designated as “Sexuality & Seduction” evoked themes of attractiveness and allure (e.g., beauty, fashion, popularity), but also yielded more surprising elements (e.g., illness), suggesting that the intended messaging may occasionally elicit divergent viewer reactions. Similarly, visuals tied to “Seasonality” prompted associations with temporal or trend-based ideas—commercial, quality, futurism—indicating that consumers link seasonal imagery not only to fashion and luxury but also to evolving esthetics and naturism. Lastly, the “Renewal” label focused on themes of personal exclusivity, popularity, and luxury, highlighting participants’ perception of a brand experience that is both aspirational and self-defining. The results show that while each identitary value recalls certain core concepts, people’s responses vary widely. Instead, audiences weave in broader socio-emotional and esthetic dimensions—such as comfort, nature, or simplicity—reflecting an interpretive complexity that brands must navigate when crafting visual campaigns to evoke specific identity cues.

When the clusters of associations were grouped, it was clear that some were significantly more frequent among different visuals than others. The encoding and decoding of a visual message are interconnected processes, so it was decided to find the relationship between was visual elements were decoded. To do it, primary codings were revisited, and the objects in the visual noted by the coders were aligned to the final associations they provoked for participants. To align it with the ephemeral nature of Instagram Stories, five objects that were the immediate codes for both coders were evaluated (Figure 2).

The encodings and decoding were then aligned to see if there could be patterns when encodings lead to decodings. However, none of the traits listed as encodings were isolated, so it would be a mistake to state that some traits convey associations. The overall context of the image was evaluated and it was assumed that a particular trait in a context (an image) provoked such associations.

Analyzing encoding and decoding patterns in ephemeral brand content reveals several key insights into how masstige fashion brands construct meaning through Instagram Stories and how audiences interpret these messages. One of the most striking patterns observed is the divergent reception of Sexuality and Seduction encodings. This value was associated with popularity, beauty, and fashion when represented through highly stylized celebrity imagery, tight dresses, latex, and exotic locations. However, some users also linked it to illness, suggesting that hyper-glamorized portrayals may evoke skepticism or negative associations. In contrast, minimalist presentations, black and white photography, and textual elements consistently reinforced classic luxury associations, indicating that simplicity and refined esthetics are strongly linked to prestige. In this case, the insights must be made with caution, as Hall’s [79] Encoding/Decoding Model acknowledges that audience members may actively negotiate or reject dominant brand messages, particularly when they appear overly artificial or unattainable. However, having in mind Wiedmann et al.’s (2007) Functional and Social Value dimensions, where restrained and clean branding enhances perceptions of exclusivity and high-end appeal, a certain trend became apparent [45].

Seasonality proved to be an effective tool for eliciting emotional engagement and nostalgia, as warm sweaters, seasonal colors, and smiles triggered associations with comfort, memory, and personal experience. This finding underscores the power of seasonal cues in creating an immediate emotional connection between the brand and its audience, demonstrating how ephemeral content can serve as a vehicle for personal and sentimental brand interactions.

Another emerging pattern relates to the use of natural landscapes and soft color palettes, which evoked associations with futurism, creativity, and emotional depth that can be addressed to the Renewal encoding. Pastel tones, flower fields, and airy clothing designs were perceived as innovative and forward-thinking. This suggests that brands looking to establish a modern and aspirational identity can benefit from incorporating nature-inspired esthetics into their ephemeral content. Furthermore, lifestyle-driven presentations, particularly paparazzi-style celebrity imagery, successfully bridged the gap between aspiration and relatability. Rather than emphasizing polished, studio-based marketing visuals, the depiction of celebrities in everyday settings carrying branded bags reinforced a sense of personal exclusivity, allowing users to imagine themselves adopting the brand into their daily lives. It can be explained with the notion that relatable and authentic storytelling fosters deeper brand engagement, making masstige brands appear more accessible while still retaining a level of prestige.

These findings highlight the dynamic interplay between brand encoding strategies and audience decoding behaviors, confirming that users actively construct meaning based on their personal experiences, social context, and gratification-seeking behaviors. While luxury aspirations remain central to masstige branding, ephemeral content must balance exclusivity and relatability, emotional engagement and creativity, and aspiration and authenticity. The effectiveness of brand communication ultimately depends on how well these elements are integrated to resonate with consumer expectations, elicit engagement, and enhance perceived brand value in the competitive digital landscape.

Some participants claimed that while watching Instagram Stories, they usually expect to see something original that catches their attention. Participants expressed their preference for some narrative instead of product placement and promotion. Participants also find the current celebrity-focused visuals unoriginal and unappealing. They believe that showcasing everyday life or unexpected people would be a more effective approach. One participant noted that a simple yard-keeper with the brand clothes would be a more interesting image than a celebrity. However, participants felt that this approach could diminish brand appeal in real-world settings—if many simple people like yard-keepers wore the brand’s clothes. Participants gave an example of the Lithuanian brand MYL, which creates original content on their social media, making it more of a community instead of constant product promotions.

Participants also argued that overexposure can diminish a brand’s desirability. For example, one participant mentioned that the Supreme brand is no longer attractive when too many counterfeits are created. Participants explained that you no longer feel unique and original when many people wear the brand’s clothes, especially fake ones. They also linked originality to the desirability of a brand and, therefore, stated that something that is too accessible is no longer original. That is evidence of the brand’s communication and the need for exclusive content to maintain prestige.

When asked what attracted their attention in social media, when watching Instagram Stories, participants mentioned the colors and gave examples of Visuals 6 and 7—those colors attracted their attention. In general, celebrities were also mentioned as something that attracts attention. One participant noted the Moschino Sedano Bag (Celery shape), which attracted their attention on social media—something new and unexpected. Participants highlight the need for interesting, original, and engaging content of masstige fashion brands.

The results indicate varying degrees of alignment between brand-encoded values and user interpretations. While visuals coded with Seasonality and Renewal were generally decoded in alignment with intended values (dominant readings), those encoded with Sexuality and Seduction frequently prompted negotiated or oppositional readings. For example, Visual 1 elicited associations with stress and illness, diverging from the intended aspirational message. Thus, specific identity values, especially those linked to celebrity culture and hyper-estheticism, may provoke resistance or reinterpretation, highlighting the importance of context and cultural framing in visual decoding.

5. Discussion

Visual content analysis demonstrated that masstige brands deliberately encode symbolic values that reflect traditional prestige branding and fast fashion characteristics. The three values pre-identified in the visuals—Sexuality and Seduction, Seasonality, and Renewal—align with attributes previously associated with masstige branding [2,4]. These values were visually expressed through recurring themes such as sensual body language, nature-inspired esthetics, and everyday domestic settings. However, the decoding process revealed that these encoded identitary values were not always interpreted as intended. In contrast, visuals representing Seasonality and Renewal were generally associated with warmth, comfort, emotional familiarity, nostalgia, or daily life. Those aiming to convey Sexuality and Seduction often triggered discomfort, alienation, or even associations with illness and stress. Sexuality and Seduction, though frequently encoded, proved less sustainable as a masstige brand value: participants often rejected or reinterpreted such imagery, associating it with discomfort, artificiality, or even emotional detachment. Users frequently adopted an active decoding stance, with many expressing a preference for visuals they deemed “original”, “unexpected”, or “natural” rather than heavily stylized celebrity images. Highly stylized celebrity imagery may backfire by producing skepticism or disengagement [6,7]. While brands attempt to maintain identity by merging aspirational and relatable cues, only specific values—those rooted in authenticity, emotional warmth, and everyday esthetics—are effectively preserved and recognized in ephemeral visual formats. According to the uses and gratifications perspective [80], consumers selectively engage with content that fulfills personal and emotional needs. When gratifications are not met—due to misalignment, inauthenticity, or esthetic overload—consumers disengage or reject the message altogether. The participants rejected inauthentic and unoriginal visuals. The respondents wanted to see some storytelling elements that are not so frequent in still images of Instagram Stories. Participants valued uniqueness and emotional resonance more than generic esthetic perfection, suggesting a shift in what consumers perceive as aspirational in digital brand communication. Perceived creativity in Instagram Stories influenced positive emotions and affective commitment [81].

The results reveal a partial overlap between brand-encoded messages and user-decoded interpretations. While some visuals were received directly, others were contested or reinterpreted, confirming the relevance of Hall’s Encoding/Decoding Model [79]. Association variation can depend on personal values, emotional expectations, and visual context. Kapferer & Michaut-Denizeau (2017) [10] emphasize that authenticity is a key dimension that consumers actively seek and evaluate [14]. This study’s emotional rejection of visual elements perceived as insincere or lacking narrative further supports this claim.

Visual association mapping revealed that specific symbolic cues (e.g., unique color palettes or everyday imagery) increased emotional involvement and message retention. Participants expressed a high acceptance of visuals that have bright or unique colors. Ephemeral content is accepted immediately, so brands should focus on the short attention span.

Following Hall’s (1980) Encoding/Decoding Model [79], the study finds that consumers do not always accept brand messages as intended. Instead, they engage in three types of reading: Dominant Reading (fully accepting the brand message and its intended meaning), Negotiated Reading (partially accepting but modifying meaning based on personal experiences), and Oppositional Reading (rejecting the intended brand message, possibly interpreting it as inauthentic or misaligned with their values).

Drawing on Encoding/Decoding Theory [79], this work recognizes that brand messages (encodings) are not passively received but instead actively interpreted (decoded) by audiences. The uses and gratifications theory also posits that consumers adopt media platforms like Instagram to fulfill specific needs—from entertainment and social interaction to information-seeking. The research data showed that immediate reactions lead to immediate rejection more often. When asked to list the immediate associations, participants were more frequently negative or negotiated than when participants spent more time and listed more associations. It can be argued that brands should focus on immediate intrigue with the visual so that it would not be skipped. The ephemeral nature of the visuals requires quick message reading, which can be achieved through model depiction, colors of the visual, font, and the message.

An in-depth understanding of the distinct motivations behind masstige consumption is instrumental in creating more effective, audience-focused advertising content [66]. The findings of this study indicate that ephemeral visuals prompt diverse associations, ultimately shaping consumption values as the audience decodes them. Moreover, many visuals appear to incorporate multiple values simultaneously, with functional and individual themes emerging most frequently. It was noted that visuals with an emotional message appeal gained more attention and provoked more associations in the participants than the ones with an informational appeal. Emotional appeals on Instagram tend to be more effective than informative appeals in getting users to interact with posts, which is consistent with our findings [82].

The study confirms that ephemeral brand communication is rapidly consumed and critically evaluated. Masstige brands seeking to build symbolic identity in digital spaces must move beyond surface-level stylization and invest in emotional authenticity, visual uniqueness, and relatable storytelling. These strategies are not merely esthetic preferences but the foundation for sustainable and meaningful consumer–brand relationships in an ephemeral media environment. These findings highlight the selective durability of brand values in fast-paced digital communication and emphasize the importance of audience-centered meaning construction.

6. Conclusions

This study aimed to explore how ephemeral brand content on Instagram—particularly masstige brands’ identitary values in visual communication in Stories—was used by brands and perceived by users. Based on the analysis of visual content and focus group interviews, key patterns were identified in how users decoded symbolic meanings, visual associations, and sustainability-related brand values.

The masstige brands’ unique identitary values—Sexuality and Seduction, Seasonality, and Renewal—demonstrated varying levels of symbolic sustainability in the ephemeral communication of masstige brands. Seasonality and Renewal were more likely to be recognized and positively interpreted by viewers, as they evoked warmth, emotional familiarity, and associations with daily life. In contrast, Sexuality and Seduction were frequently resisted, reinterpreted, or linked to negative associations such as detachment or discomfort, suggesting that not all inferred values are equally sustainable in ephemeral brand communication. Viewers consistently decoded and retained only values associated with authenticity, simplicity, and emotional familiarity. These insights underline the selective stability of brand identity in ephemeral communication and the crucial role of audience perception in meaning-making.

The decoding process confirmed that users actively engage with brand messages and do not passively accept them—visuals perceived as too polished, artificial, or lacking narrative coherence often triggered oppositional or negotiated readings. Participants preferred emotionally engaging visuals that were unique or perceived as authentic rather than generic or celebrity-driven.

The findings highlight the role of immediate emotional appeal in the effectiveness of ephemeral content. Participants formed quick impressions and responded based on initial emotional or cognitive resonance. It is essential to design Instagram Stories with instant clarity, affective impact, and symbolic coherence to maintain audience attention and engagement.

The study shows that while ephemeral communication offers strategic opportunities for masstige brands, only specific identity values—particularly those rooted in authenticity and emotional relevance—are sustainable and consistently decoded as intended. These insights provide a valuable foundation for refining symbolic positioning in short-form digital content.

The study has some practical implications. Masstige brands, especially in the fashion, beauty, and lifestyle sectors, could use ephemeral formats strategically to reinforce their sustainable positioning of values through subtle visual cues.

Highly stylized images of celebrities elicit suspicion, emotional detachment, or even negative connotations. In comparison, images representing more mundane, everyday settings or neutral styles elicited more emotional resonance. It is recommended that brands highlight authentic depictions corresponding to daily consumer identity rather than depend substantially on celebrity endorsements.

Given the short-lived and fast-scrolling nature of Instagram Stories, users form immediate judgments. The study demonstrated that visuals with unique colors, emotional appeal, or unexpected imagery (e.g., futuristic themes, warm color palettes) captured more attention and led to richer association mapping. Managers should focus on optimizing the initial visual impression to prevent content from being skipped.

The study found that the intended message was distorted or rejected when viewers identified celebrities or influencers whose public personas did not align with the brand’s values. The recommendation for businesses is that influencer selection must go beyond popularity metrics and consider the fit between the influencer’s identity and the brand’s symbolic positioning to preserve message integrity.

The research contributed to theoretical discussions on ephemeral communication by demonstrating that short-lived formats such as Instagram Stories could effectively convey value-based messages. Furthermore, it revealed that the audience creates associations around visuals based on the depicted symbols, colors, and the model’s appearance. While the human model picture is the most effective way in fashion advertising, the social role of the person and the rase fosters specific decodings. The findings also challenged the assumption that ephemeral content was incompatible with more complex or value-driven narratives, suggesting that subtle visual storytelling enhanced credibility and user attention instead.

7. Limitations and Ethical Considerations

This study had several methodological and contextual limitations that should be acknowledged when interpreting the findings. The research focused exclusively on Instagram content from brands operating in the Lithuanian market and interviewed Lithuanian users. This geographic limitation may affect the generalizability of the findings, as cultural differences can shape both the creation and interpretation of visual sustainability cues. Furthermore, only selected sectors within the masstige segment were included, which may not fully capture the diversity of branding practices across different industries.

All research procedures adhered to ethical research standards. Participants in the qualitative part of the study provided informed consent before the interviews. They were informed about the purpose of the research, their right to withdraw at any stage, and that their identities would remain anonymous in any publications or reports.

The study was conducted using institutional ethical protocols that respected the principles of voluntary participation and confidentiality. Visual content from Instagram accounts was analyzed only from publicly available brand profiles, and no private user data was accessed.

Additionally, while the study provided valuable insights into how participants decoded brand-related visual stimuli, it did not assess the emotional engagement the content elicited. The research design did not include mechanisms to determine how strongly viewers emotionally connected with the images or whether they experienced positive or negative feelings toward them. Although participants mapped associations and interpreted meanings, the intensity or nature of their emotional responses—such as liking, discomfort, or excitement—remains unclear. This was outside the scope of the current study but represents a valuable direction for future research.

No comparative analysis based on nationality was performed, and including these other nationalities in the focus group should be interpreted as exploratory. While the participants were included based on their established familiarity with local culture and visual media habits, the study did not aim to compare national groups or explore cultural differences.