Search Results (6)

The growing demand for natural and sustainable skincare products has driven interest in plant-based active ingredients, especially from in vitro cultures. This placebo-controlled study investigated the impact of a facial cream containing 2% Kickxia elatine (L.) Dumort cell suspension culture extract on various skin biophysical parameters. The cream was applied to the cheek once daily for six weeks on 40 healthy female volunteers between the ages of 40 to 49. The evaluated skin parameters including skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema intensity (EI), melanin intensity (MI), skin surface pH, and skin structure, wrinkle depth, vascular lesions, and vascular discolouration. The results indicated that significant improvements were observed in skin hydration (from 40.36 to 63.00 AU, p < 0.001) and there was a decrease in TEWL score (14.82 to 11.76 g/h/m², p < 0.001), while the skin surface pH was maintained (14.82 to 11.76 g/h/m², p < 0.001). Moreover, the K. elatine cell extract significantly improved skin structure values (9.23 to 8.50, p = 0.028), reduced vascular lesions (2.72 to 1.54 mm², p = 0.011), and lowered skin discolouration (20.98% to 14.84%, p < 0.001), indicating its moisturising, protective, brightening, and soothing properties. These findings support the potential use of K. elatine cell extract in dermocosmetic formulations targeting dry, sensitive, or ageing skin. Full article

Known for its stimulating effects on the nervous and cardiovascular systems, caffeine has proven remarkable versatile properties. It can be used in a wide range of different products, from anti-aging cosmetics to the pharmaceutical treatment of hair loss. Caffeine is known for its antioxidant properties and is commonly found in moisturising creams recommended as anti-aging or anti-cellulite and also for the treatment of different skin disorders, including androgenic alopecia. This bioactive is also described to be able to enhance the sunscreen scattering effect of well-known ultraviolet (UV) blockers. One of the major challenges remains its penetration capacity into deeper skin layers, which may be achieved by the use of nanosized delivery systems, yet without the risk of transdermal delivery. In this review, we discuss the nutraceutical value of caffeine in cosmetic products, so-called nutricosmetics, which grants this bioactive several advantages in several formulations, in comparison to other potential bioactives of nutricosmetic value. Furthermore, the disclosed effects of bioactives commonly found in coffee, tea, and their by-products are reviewed and discussed. The discussion concludes by highlighting the significant benefits of caffeine in the treatment of skin disorders and its potential to enhance and promote skin health. Full article

Poly-γ-glutamic acid (γ-PGA) is a carboxylic-acid-rich, bio-derived, water-soluble, edible, hydrating, non-immunogenic polymer produced naturally by several microorganisms. Here, we re-emphasise the ability of Bacillus subtilis natto to naturally produce γ-PGA on whole seaweed, as well as for the yields and chemical properties of the material to be affected by the presence of Mn⁽²⁺⁾. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is an extracellular glycosaminoglycan which presents a high concentration of carboxylic acid and hydroxyl groups, being key in fulfilling numerous applications. Currently, there are strong environmental (solvent use), social (non-vegan extraction), and economic factors pushing for the biosynthesis of this material through prokaryotic microorganisms, which is not yet scalable or sustainable. Our study aimed to investigate an innovative raw material which can combine both superior hygroscopicity and UV protection to the cosmetic industry. Comparable hydration effect of commercially available γ-PGA to conventional moisturising agents (HA and glycerol) was observed; however, greater hydration capacity was observed from seaweed-derived γ-PGA. Herewith, successful incorporation of seaweed-derived γ-PGA (0.2–2 w/v%) was achieved for several model cream systems with absorbances reported at 300 and 400 nm. All γ-PGA-based creams displayed shear thinning behaviour as the viscosity decreased, following increasing shear rates. Although the use of commercial γ-PGA within creams did not suggest a significant effect in rheological behaviour, this was confirmed to be a result of the similar molecular weight. Seaweed-derived γ-PGA cream systems did not display any negative effect on model HaCaT keratinocytes by means of in vitro MTT analysis. Full article

The growing population has intensified food processing, increasing the generation of agro-industrial waste. This waste is rich in bioactive compounds; therefore, it can be valorised by extracting their compounds of biological interest and incorporating them into cosmetic products. In this work, an extract was obtained from kiwi peels and characterised regarding its biological properties and phenolic composition. Results demonstrated that the extract presented antioxidant activity against DPPH and ABTS radicals (IC₅₀ values of 244 mg/L and 58 mg/L, respectively) and antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus. Catechin and epicatechin (flavonoids), as well as chlorogenic acid (phenolic acid), were the main phenolic compounds identified. Subsequently, the kiwi peel extract was incorporated into cosmetic formulations and their antioxidant properties and stability were evaluated. An increase in the antioxidant activity of the moisturising cream was observed upon the extract’s addition. Also, no microorganisms were present in any formulation prepared, attesting to their microbial safety. Finally, the results from the stability analysis revealed that the moisturising creams remained relatively stable for two weeks. These findings suggest that extracts from kiwi peels have the potential to be used as natural additives to produce value-added cosmetic products in a more sustainable manner. Full article

Metals are present in cosmetics due to deliberate addition by the manufacturers, contamination of raw materials, and/or contamination during their manufacture or storage. The objective of this work was to explore the metal content in the most-consumed moisturising creams on the Spanish market, to verify their degree of compliance with Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of the European Union, regarding the presence of metals in cosmetics. The moisturisers were digested (microwave-assisted acid digestion) and analysed by inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry (ICP-MS), for metal assessment. The ICP-MS measurements were successfully validated (RSDs lower than 5% and analytical recoveries within the 91–110% range). Metals banned in cosmetics were found at very low concentrations in some of the moisturisers, as inevitable traces of pollutants. This was the case with beryllium (found in only two samples, at concentrations lower than 0.10 µg g⁻¹), cadmium (found at 0.075 µg g⁻¹ in one sample), mercury (found in four samples at concentrations within the 0.10–0.18 µg g⁻¹ range), and lead (also found in four samples at concentrations from 0.03 to 0.44 µg g⁻¹). Furthermore, nickel (0.16–0.56 µg g⁻¹, six samples), chromium (0.09–0.30 µg g⁻¹, three samples), and cobalt (lower than 0.13 µg g⁻¹, two samples) were also found in the analysed creams. Full article

While the early and asymptomatic recognition of treatable conditions offered by newborn screening confers clear health benefits for the affected child, the clinical referral of patients with screen positive results can cause significant harm for some families. The use of pivalate-containing antibiotics and more recently the inclusion of neopentanoate as a component within moisturising creams used as nipple balms by nursing mothers can result in a significant number of false positive results when screening for isovaleric acidaemia (IVA) by measuring C5 acylcarnitine. A recent survey conducted within centres from nine countries indicated that this form of contamination had been or was a significant confounding factor in the detection of IVA in seven of the nine who responded. In three of these seven the prominent cause was believed to derive from the use of moisturising creams and in another three from antibiotics containing pivalate; one country reported that the cause was mixed. As a result, four of these seven centres routinely perform second tier testing to resolve C5 isobars when an initial C5 result is elevated, and a fifth is considering making this change within their national programme. The use of creams containing neopentanoate by nursing mothers and evolving patterns in the prescription of pivalate-containing antibiotics during pregnancy require those involved in the design and operation of newborn screening programmes used to detect IVA and the doctors who receive clinical referrals from these programmes to maintain an awareness of the potential impact of this form of interference on patient results. Full article