Search Results (6)

Wave breaking is a fundamental process in ocean energy dissipation and plays a crucial role in the exchange between ocean and nearshore sediments. Foam, the primary visible feature of wave breaking areas, serves as a direct indicator of wave breaking processes. Monitoring the distribution of foam via remote sensing can reveal the spatiotemporal patterns of nearshore wave breaking. Existing studies on wave breaking processes primarily focus on individual wave events or short timescales, limiting their effectiveness for nearshore regions where hydrodynamic processes are often represented at tidal cycles. In this study, video imagery from a typical low-tide terrace (LTT) beach was segmented into four categories, including the wave breaking foam, using the DeepLabv3+ architecture, a convolutional neural networks (CNNs)-based model suitable for semantic segmentation in complex visual scenes. After training and testing on a manually labelled dataset, which was divided into training, validation, and testing sets based on different time periods, the overall classification accuracy of the model was 96.4%, with an accuracy of 96.2% for detecting wave breaking foam. Subsequently, a heatmap of the wave breaking foam distribution over a tidal cycle on the LTT beach was generated. During the tidal cycle, the foam distribution density exhibited both alongshore variability, and a pronounced bimodal structure in the cross-shore direction. Analysis of morphodynamical data collected in the field indicated that the bimodal structure is primarily driven by tidal variations. The wave breaking process is a key factor in shaping the profile morphology of LTT beaches. High-frequency video monitoring further showed the wave breaking patterns vary significantly with tidal levels, leading to diverse geomorphological features at various cross-shore locations. Full article

This study examines the evolution of wave shapes as they propagate over a beach of varying morphology, information essential for understanding coastal dynamics and supporting coastal management. Our objective was to analyze the relationship between wave shape parameters and the local slope of the beach. To achieve this, we used data from pressure sensors and topographic measurements to evaluate the shape of waves on a cross-shore profile of a low-tide terrace beach. The analysis of wave conditions revealed a pronounced modulation of the tidal signal, which is augmented during storm events. Our findings demonstrate that the asymmetry and skewness parameters are more pronounced in the reflective zone of the beach. Considering these results, it can be concluded that the non-linearity of waves is significantly affected by the beach slope. The parameterization method employed in this study effectively incorporates this factor, offering improved accuracy in comparison to the existing approaches. Full article

The morphodynamics of the Leucate double-crescent bar system was studied over twenty years using bathymetric data supplemented by satellite images and video monitoring. Eleven different bar typologies were identified, mostly based on existing beach state classifications (Low-Tide Terrace, Transverse Bar and Rip, Rhythmic Bar and Beach), also including new heterogeneous typologies (TBR/LTT, RBB HP/RBB, TBR/RBB). The inner bar shows greater variability, with 10 different typologies observed, while the outer bar shows only three different typologies. Summer low-energy periods are dominated by TBR/LTT and TBR typologies, while RBB, although common throughout the year, dominates winter periods along with disrupted bar configurations. The return to less energetic periods in spring is associated with the establishment of heterogeneous typologies. The outer bar has a fairly stable position, although breaches at the embayments and slight movements of its horns can occur following particularly energetic episodes. The inner bar, on the other hand, is much more dynamic, with more common breaches at the embayments and significant cross-shore movement of the horns. Seasonal changes in bar typology do not lead to bar renewal through destruction/reconstruction. Overall, the morphological and typological characteristics of the bar system described here seem somewhat unique compared to the existing literature. Full article

Low tide terrace (LLT) beaches are characterised by a moderately steep beach face and a flat shallow terrace influencing the local hydro-morphodynamics during low tide. The upper beachface slope ($\beta$) and the terrace width ($L_t$) are the main morphological parameters that define the shape of LTT cross-shore beach profiles. This work aims at better understanding the behaviour of $\beta$ and $L_t$ and their link with the incoming wave forcing. For this purpose, our results are based on 3.5 years times series of daily beach profiles and wave conditions surveys at two different microtidal LTT beaches with similar sediments size but different wave climate, one at Nha Trang (Vietnam) and the other one at Grand Popo (Benin). While they look similar, two contrasting behaviour were linked to two sub-types of LTT regimes: the first one is surf regulated beaches (SRB) where the swash zone is highly regulated by the surf zone wave energy dissipation on the terrace, and the second is swash regulated beaches (SwRB) acting in more reflective regime where the terrace is not active and the energy dissipation is mainly produced in the swash zone, the terrace becomes a consequences of the high dynamics in the swash zone. Finally, extending the common view of an equilibrium beach profile as a power law of the cross-shore distance, the ability of a simple parametrized cubic function model with the Dean number as unique control parameters is proposed and discussed. This simple model can be used for the understanding of LLT environments but it can not be extended to the whole beach spectrum. Full article

A field experiment was conducted at a tropical microtidal intermediate sandy beach with a low tide terrace (Nha Trang, Vietnam) to investigate the short-term swash-zone hydrodynamics and morphodynamics under variable wave conditions. Continuous 2D Lidar scanner observations of wave height at the lower foreshore, subsequent run-up and swash-induced topographic changes were obtained. These data were complemented by detailed real-time kinematic GPS topographic surveys. Variable wave and tide conditions were experienced during the field experiment with relatively large swell waves (offshore significant wave height, H_s = 0.9 m to 1.3 m; peak wave period, T_p = 8 to 12 s) concomitant with spring tides at the beginning of the period, followed by mild wind waves (offshore H_s under 0.5 m and T_p 5 s) and neap tides. This resulted in the following morphological sequence: berm erosion followed by rapid neap berm reformation and beach recovery within a few days. New insights into the link between intra-tidal swash dynamics and daily beach profile evolution were found using the Lidar dataset. While waves directly cause morphology changes on a wave-by-wave basis, tidal levels were found to be a key factor in determining the morphological wave-effect (accretive or erosive) due to modulated interaction between surf and swash hydro-morphodynamics. Full article

Although coastal morphology results essentially from underwater sediment transports, the evolution of underwater beach profiles along the diverse coastlines of the world is still poorly documented. Bathymetry inversion from shore-based video cameras set forth a more systematic evaluation and is becoming more commonly used. However, there are limitations to this profiling method that are insufficiently assessed, undermining confidence in operational applications. In this paper, we investigate the daily evolution of a low tide terrace (LTT) in Nha Trang beach, Vietnam, under strong seasonal forcing: from weak wind waves during summer monsoon to moderate waves during winter monsoon. A new error estimation for depth inversion is presented based on tidal evaluation. The method compares video-based estimate and direct measurement of tidal amplitudes to provide a quality criterion. It reveals three types of errors, the main one being a deep water error associated with physical limits—loss of celerity-bathymetry relationship in deep water. This error is dependent on wave period and thus has a strong seasonal pattern in Vietnam. It is generally detrimental to depth inversion where wind waves are dominant (in summer here). On the contrary, the second error type is larger for larger waves and is located at breakpoint, altering wave detection. The last error type is due to nonlinear effects and wave setup in shallow water. After removing the faulty data, we finally present the first reliable three-year time-series of a beach profile in Nha Trang, Vietnam. A main result is the overall stability demonstrated for the LTT beach, with rapid exchange of sediment between the terrace and the upper beach during typhoons, monsoon events or seasonal cycles. These tropical environments may provide faster beach recovery compared with mid-latitude configurations. Full article