Surf and Swash Dynamics on Low Tide Terrace Beaches
Abstract
:1. Introduction
2. Methodology
2.1. Field Data
2.2. Dimensional Analysis and LTT Classification
2.3. Key Low-Tide Terrace Morphological Parameters Extraction
3. Morphology Scaling
3.1. Scaling from Field Data
3.2. Discussion on the Swash versus Surf Morphodynamical Process
4. Extending the Dean Profiles to 3rd Order Profiles
4.1. 3rd Order Regression of the Bathymetry for the Study of a Parametric Model
4.2. A Simple Parametric Model to Understand the Behaviour of LTT Beach Profile
5. Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Institutional Review Board Statement
Informed Consent Statement
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
Abbreviations
LTT | Low tide terrace |
TBR | Transverse var and rip state |
SNT | Summer Nha Trang cross-shore profiles |
WNT | Winter Nha Trang cross-shore profiles |
GP | Grand Popo cross-shore profiles |
SRB | Surf regulated beach |
SwRB | Swash regulated beach |
RMSE | Root mean square error |
RMSRE | Root mean square relative error |
Dean number | |
Wave height | |
Wave period | |
Sediment fall velocity | |
Terrace width | |
Beach face slope | |
water depth on the terrace | |
water wavelenght |
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(mm) | Micro-Tidal Range (m) | (m) | (s) | (m) | Beach State | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Nha Trang | 0.60 | 0.4 to 1.7 | 0.92 (annual) 0.63 (summer) 1.30 (winter) | 4.09 3.14 4.91 | 27.76 15.77 38.45 | 2.85 2.50 3.50 | - Intermediate to Reflective LTT |
Grand Popo | 0.60 | 0.8 to 1.8 | 1.47 (annual) 1.64 (summer) 1.25 (winter) | 8.89 9.04 8.07 | 125.51 129.00 112.23 | 2.05 2.27 1.85 | LTT LTT LTT |
Morpho Parameters | Hydro Parameters | Morho-Hydrodynamics Parameters | |||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Beach State | (m) | (m) | (s) | (m) | |||||||
Reflective (SNT) | – | 0.10 | 0.6 m | 0.63 m | 3.14 s | 15.77 m | 0.25 m | 2.4 | 0.04 | – | 2.47 |
LTT (WNT) | 14 m | 0.10 | 0.9 m | 1.30 m | 4.91 s | 38.45 m | 0.40 m | 2.25 | 0.03 | 0.3 | 3.50 |
LTT (GP) | 42 m | 0.19 | 1.30 m | 1.47 m | 8.89 s | 125.51 m | 0.72 m | 1.80 | 0.01 | 0.3 | 2.05 |
RMSE | RMSRE | |||
---|---|---|---|---|
Lt-Lt Model | - Model | Lt-Lt Model | - Model | |
Nha Trang | 2.9 m | 0.04 | 21% | 46% |
Grand Popo | 5.9 m | 0.05 | 14% | 28% |
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Mingo, I.M.; Almar, R.; Lacaze, L. Surf and Swash Dynamics on Low Tide Terrace Beaches. Coasts 2021, 1, 73-89. https://doi.org/10.3390/coasts1010005
Mingo IM, Almar R, Lacaze L. Surf and Swash Dynamics on Low Tide Terrace Beaches. Coasts. 2021; 1(1):73-89. https://doi.org/10.3390/coasts1010005
Chicago/Turabian StyleMingo, Ivana M., Rafael Almar, and Laurent Lacaze. 2021. "Surf and Swash Dynamics on Low Tide Terrace Beaches" Coasts 1, no. 1: 73-89. https://doi.org/10.3390/coasts1010005