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Keywords = breaker index formula

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11 pages, 1737 KB  
Technical Note
A New Expression for a Goda Type Breaker Index Formula in Spectral Wave Models
by Zereng Chen, Qinghe Zhang and Yang Nie
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(2), 313; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13020313 - 7 Feb 2025
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 2558
Abstract
The breaker index in contemporary spectral wave models is a vital parameter in studying depth-induced wave breaking, which is an important mechanism in coastal engineering. In the previous study, the authors modified a Goda type breaker index formula and parameterized it in a [...] Read more.
The breaker index in contemporary spectral wave models is a vital parameter in studying depth-induced wave breaking, which is an important mechanism in coastal engineering. In the previous study, the authors modified a Goda type breaker index formula and parameterized it in a spectral wave model. Although this parameterization model can accurately simulate nearshore wave height variations under various laboratory and field conditions, the computation of deep-water wave conditions in the formula necessitates reverse calculation based on the incident waves, thus limiting its applicability. To solve this problem, a new expression for this Goda type breaker index is rederived, enabling its applicability to simulate breaking waves caused by variable wave conditions on open boundaries and wind field inputs in the whole computational region. The model’s capability to simulate wave heights in laboratory and field experiments is comparable to that of the original formula. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Ocean Engineering)
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17 pages, 4462 KB  
Article
Simple Breaker Index Formula Using Linear Model
by Kwang-Ho Lee and Yong-Hwan Cho
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9(7), 731; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse9070731 - 1 Jul 2021
Cited by 11 | Viewed by 6230
Abstract
Breaking waves generated by wave shoaling in coastal areas have a close relationship with various physical phenomena in coastal regions. Therefore, it is crucial to accurately predict breaker indexes such as breaking wave height and breaking depth when designing coastal structures. Many studies [...] Read more.
Breaking waves generated by wave shoaling in coastal areas have a close relationship with various physical phenomena in coastal regions. Therefore, it is crucial to accurately predict breaker indexes such as breaking wave height and breaking depth when designing coastal structures. Many studies on wave breaking have been carried out, and many experimental data have been documented. Representative studies on wave breaking provide many empirical formulas for the prediction of breaking index, mainly through hydraulic model experiments. However, the existing empirical formulas for breaking index determine the coefficients of the assumed equation through statistical analysis of data under the assumption of a specific equation. This study presents an alternative method to estimate breaker index using representative linear-based supervised machine learning algorithms that show high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification problems. Based on the used machine learning methods, a new simple linear equation for the prediction of breaker index is presented. The newly proposed breaker index formula showed similar predictive performance compared to the existing empirical formula, although it was a simple linear equation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Water Waves: Field and Experimental Observations)
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