Let the Lead Tags Talk—Terms on Carnuntum Tesserae Referring to Textiles, Colours and Dyeing in the 2nd Century CE
Abstract
1. Introduction
2. Materials and Methods
3. Results and Discussion
4. Clients and Prices
5. Terms Related to Textiles and Services
6. Terms Related to Fumigating, Mending and Perfuming
7. Terms Related to Colours and Textile Dyeing
8. Dying Techniques, Dyes and Colours
8.1. Direct Dyes and Direct Dyeing
8.2. Mordant Dyes and Mordant Dyeing with Alum
8.3. Vat Dyes and Vat Dyeing
8.4. Double Dyeing and Shading of Colours by Copper- and Iron-Based Mordants
9. Terms Related to Yellow
10. Terms Related to Scarlet Red
11. Terms Related to Red
12. Terms Related to Blue
13. Terms Related to Purple
14. Terms Related to Green
15. Terms Related to Brown, Grey and Black
16. Terms Related to White
17. Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Data Availability Statement
Conflicts of Interest
References
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| Abbreviation and (Possible Interpretation) | Translation and Comment |
|---|---|
| Cloak or Cloak-Like Garments for the Military | |
| c(hlamys) | travelling cloak, war cloak |
| p(aludamentum) | military cloak |
| sa(gum), s(agum) | short cloak, soldier’s cloak |
| Cloak or cloak-like garments with hoods | |
| cas(ula), ca(sula), c(asula) | hooded cloak |
| cu(cullus), c(ucullus) | sleeveless, close-fitting hooded cape or cloak |
| la(cerna) | heavy sleeveless rain cloak, hooded |
| pa(enula), p(aenula) | military cloak, rain cloak, travel cloak with hood |
| Other cloaks or cloak-like garments | |
| a(bolla) | cloak |
| al(icula), a(licula) | light cloak |
| ban(ata), ba(nata), b(anata) | a type of cloak typical for western provinces |
| birrus, bir(rus), bi(rrus), b(irrus), b(yrrhus), b(yrrus) | long cloak |
| cal(thula), ca(lthula), c(althula) | Greek short cloak |
| g(a)u(sapa), g(ausapa) | fabric with loop or pile weave, used for mantles |
| la(ena) | woollen cloak, worn over toga or pallium |
| ma(ntellum), m(antellum) | cloak, mantle |
| ma(ntus), m(antus) | cloak, mantle |
| pal(la), pa(lla), p(alla) | long, pleated, cloak-like garment worn by Roman women |
| pal(liolum), pa(lliolum), p(alliolum) | Greek cloak-like garment worn by Roman men and women |
| pal(lium), pa(llium), p(allium) | Greek cloak-like garment worn by Roman men and women |
| Other clothing | |
| cap(itium) | hood |
| da(lmatica), d(almatica) | dalmatic |
| pan(num), pa(nnum) | cloth |
| pan(nus), pa(nnus) | cloth |
| par(apechium) | a special garment for women (Greek loanword) |
| taur(inae), tau(rinae), ta(urinae) | women’s sandals, partly made of wool |
| tun(ica), tu(nica) | tunic |
| udo(nes), ud(ones) | socks, slippers |
| ve(stimentum), v(estimentum) | garment |
| ve(stis), v(estis) | clothes, garment |
| Other textiles | |
| g(a)u(sapa), g(ausapa) | fabric with loop or pile weave, used for mantles |
| lana, la(na) | wool |
| lod(ix), lo(dix) | blanket |
| sip(arium) | small curtain, theatre curtain |
| sip(pla) | triangular sail |
| ve(lamen), v(elamen) | blanket, garment |
| ve(llus), v(ellus) | fleece |
| ve(lum), v(elum) | cloth, fabric, blanket, canvas |
| Abbreviation and (Possible Interpretation) | Translation and Comment |
|---|---|
| Interaction with Clients | |
| recepit | he or she has taken over |
| rec(ipere), r(ecipere) | receive, take over, take in charge |
| r(emittere) | return |
| Cleaning and restoring | |
| cur(are), cu(rare) | care |
| mu(ndare), m(undare) | clean |
| pur(gare), pu(rgare), p(urgare) | clean |
| pu(tare), p(utare) | clean |
| rec(urare), re(curare), r(ecurare) | recure, restore, wash (vestimenta recurata are used clothes washed by fullers) |
| re(ficere), r(eficere) | repair, restore |
| re(mundare), r(emundare) | clean, wash |
| Colouring and dyeing | |
| c(olorare), (colorare) | colour |
| c(olore tingere), (colore tingere) | dye with a colourant |
| ret(ingere), re(tingere), r(etingere) | redye worn clothes |
| ti(ngere), t(ingere), (tingere) | dye |
| Fuller and fulling | |
| fullo, ful(lo), fu(llo) | fuller |
| ful(lonicare), fu(llonicare) | full |
| fu(llonicus), ful(lonicus) | concerning the fullo |
| ful(lonius), fu(llonius) | concerning the fullo |
| Fumigating with sulphur | |
| sulfur(e suffire), sulfu(re suffire), sul(fure suffire), su(lfure suffire), s(ulfure suffire) | fumigate with sulphur |
| Mending and tailoring | |
| rec(idere), re(cidere), r(ecidere) | cut off, cut out |
| sar(cire), sa(rcire), s(arcire) | mend |
| Perfuming | |
| am(aracino) (odorare) | perfume with ointment of marjoram |
| myr(rha) (odorare), my(rrha) (odorare), m(yrrha) (odorare) | perfume with myrrh |
| na(rdo) (odorare), n(ardo) o(dorare) | perfume with nard |
| Abbreviation and (Possible Interpretation) | Translation and Comment |
|---|---|
| Terms related to yellow | |
| cal(beus), c(albeus) | greenish yellow |
| cal(tha) | marigold (Calendula sp.) for yellow dyeing |
| cot(inus) | smoketree, dyer’s sumac (Cotinus coggygria L.) heartwood (young fustic) for dyeing yellow |
| cr(ocatus) | saffron yellow |
| cr(oceus) | saffron yellow |
| cr(ocinus) | saffron yellow |
| cr(ocum) | saffron (Crocus sativus L.) for dyeing yellow |
| cr(ocus) | saffron (Crocus sativus L.) for dyeing yellow |
| flam(meus) | flaming yellow |
| fu(lvus), f(ulvus) | shade of yellow |
| lut(eolus), lu(teolus), l(uteolus) | yellowish |
| lut(eus), lu(teus), l(uteus) | golden yellow |
| cum luto (tingere) | (dyeing) with weld |
| lut(um), lu(tum), l(utum) | weld, dyer’s weed (Reseda luteola L.) for dyeing yellow |
| [mu(rreus), m(urreus)] [my(rreus) m(yrreus)] | myrrh-coloured, brownish to yellowish [abbreviation “mu” (“my”) classified under green] |
| su(lfureus), s(ulfureus) | sulphur-coloured |
| Terms related to scarlet red | |
| coc(cineus), c(occineus) | scarlet red, kermes red |
| cus(culium), cu(sculium), c(usculium) | kermes |
| Terms related to red | |
| cin(nabaris) | cinnabar (red pigment, not suitable for dyeing) |
| fer(rugineus), fe(rrugineus), f(errugineus) | rust-like, rust red |
| [flam(meus)] | flaming red [abbreviation “flam” classified under yellow] |
| (ha)em(atinus), (h)ae(matinus) | blood red |
| mi(niatus) | vermilion red |
| mi(nium) | vermilion, cinnabar, minium (red pigments, not suitable for dyeing) |
| nit(elinus), ni(telinus), n(itelinus) | dormouse-coloured, reddish shade, brownish red to reddish brown |
| r(oseus) | rose-coloured, rosy, pink |
| ru(ber), r(uber) | red |
| ru(tilus), r(utilus) | reddish, light red |
| Terms related to blue | |
| cae(ruleus), c(a)er(uleus), c(a)e(ruleus), c(aeruleus) | sky-blue and many other blue shades |
| cae(sicius) | greyish to greenish blue |
| cae(sitius) | greyish to greenish blue |
| cae(sius) | greyish to greenish blue |
| i(ndicum) | (blue like) indigo |
| Terms related to purple | |
| [cot(inus)] | smoketree, dyer’s sumac (Cotinus coggygria L.): leaves (sumach) for dyeing purple to reddish brown [abbreviation “cot” classified under yellow] |
| purp(ureus), pur(pureus), pu(rpureus), p(urpureus) | purple colour shades |
| va(ccinium) | European blueberry, bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L.) or an unidentified blue-flowered plant for dyeing purple |
| Terms related to green | |
| [cal(lainus), c(allainus)] | pale green, sea green, a shade of light green, [abbreviation “cal” classified under yellow] |
| mu(rteolus), my(rteolus), m(urteolus), m(yrteolus) | myrtle-coloured, greenish to brownish |
| mu(rteus), my(rteus), m(urteus), m(yrteus) | myrtle-coloured, greenish to brownish |
| ol(e)a(ginus), ol(eaginus) | olive green |
| ol(i)a(gineus), ol(iagineus) | olive green |
| p(rasinus) | leek green |
| vir(idis) | green |
| Terms related to brown | |
| cast(aneus), cas(taneus), ca(staneus) | chestnut brown |
| [cot(inus)] | smoketree, dyer’s sumac (Cotinus coggygria L.): leaves (sumach) for dyeing purple to reddish brown [abbreviation “cot” classified under yellow] |
| [fer(rugineus), fe(rrugineus), f(errugineus)] | rust brown [abbreviations “fer” and “fe” classified under red] |
| [fu(scus), f(uscus)] | dark brown [abbreviation “fu” classified under yellow] |
| [mu(rinus), m(urinus)] | mouse grey, mouse-coloured, marten-coloured (brownish) [abbreviation “mu” classified under green] |
| [mu(rreus), m(urreus)] [my(rreus), m(yrreus)] | myrrh-coloured, brownish to yellowish [abbreviation “mu” (“my”) classified under green] |
| [mu(rteolus), m(urteolus)] [my(rteolus), m(yrteolus)] | myrtle-coloured, greenish to brownish [abbreviation “mu” (“my”) classified under green] |
| [mu(rteus), m(urteus)] [my(rteus), m(yrteus)] | myrtle-coloured, greenish to brownish [abbreviation “mu” (“my”) classified under green] |
| [nit(elinus), ni(telinus), n(itelinus)] | dormouse-coloured, reddish shade, brownish red to reddish brown [abbreviations “nit” and “ni” classified under red] |
| [pipe(rinus), pip(erinus), pi(perinus), p(iperinus)] | pepper-coloured, grey to black and brown [abbreviation “pipe”, “pip” and “pi” classified under grey to black] |
| Terms related to grey to black | |
| cin(eraceus), c(ineraceus) | ash grey |
| cin(ereus), c(inereus) | ash grey |
| [fer(rugineus), fe(rrugineus), f(errugineus)] | iron-like, dark coloured like iron [abbreviations “fer” and “fe” classified under red] |
| [mu(rinus), m(urinus)] | mouse grey, mouse-coloured, marten-coloured (brownish) [abbreviation “mu” classified under green] |
| pipe(rinus), pip(erinus), pi(perinus), p(iperinus) | pepper-coloured, grey to black and brown |
| Terms related to white | |
| al(bus), a(lbus) | dull white |
| can(didus), ca(ndidus) | brilliant white |
| cretinus | possibly a vulgar form of cretaceus or cretatus |
| cretaceus | chalk-like |
| cretatus | coated or whitened with chalk |
| Colour | Dye Class | Dyeing Technique | Dye Bath and Vat |
|---|---|---|---|
| Carotenoids | Direct dyeing | Dye bath with saffron | |
| Flavonoids | Mordant dyeing with alum | Dye bath with yellow flavonoids from weld, marigold, young fustic etc. | |
| Anthraquinones and flavonoids | Mordant dyeing with alum | Red anthraquinones and yellow flavonoids in one dye bath or two separate dye baths | |
| Chalcones | Direct dyeing | Dye bath with safflower red | |
| Anthraquinones | Mordant dyeing with alum | Dye bath with dyer’s madder | |
| Anthraquinones | Mordant dyeing with alum | Dye bath with a dye insect | |
| Indigoids | Vat dyeing | Woad vat | |
| Indigoids | Vat dyeing | Vat from molluscan purple | |
| Lichen dyes | Direct dyeing | Dye bath with orchil | |
| Naphthoquinones | Mordant dyeing with alum | Dye bath with dyer’s alkanet | |
| Indigoids and anthraquinones | Double dyeing: vat dyeing for blue and mordant dyeing for red | Woad vat and a dye bath with dyer’s madder or a dye insect | |
| Anthraquinones | Mordant dyeing with iron-based mordant | Dye bath with dyer’s madder | |
| Indigoids and flavonoids | Double dyeing: vat dyeing for blue and mordant dyeing for yellow | Woad vat and a dye bath with yellow flavonoids | |
| Flavonoids | Mordant dyeing with copper-based mordant | Dye bath with yellow flavonoids | |
| Tannins | Direct dyeing | Dye bath with tannins | |
| Naphthoquinones | Direct dyeing | Dye bath with common walnut | |
| Flavonoids | Mordant dyeing with iron-based mordant | Dye bath with yellow flavonoids | |
| Tannins | Mordant dyeing with iron-based mordant | Dye bath with tannins | |
| Indigoids and anthraquinones and/or flavonoids | Multiple dyeing process: vat dyeing for blue, mordant dyeing for red and/or mordant dyeing for yellow | Woad vat, a dye bath with red anthraquinones and/or a dye bath with yellow flavonoids |
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Hofmann-de Keijzer, R.; Radman-Livaja, I.; Bogensperger, I.; Heiss, A.G.; Petznek, B. Let the Lead Tags Talk—Terms on Carnuntum Tesserae Referring to Textiles, Colours and Dyeing in the 2nd Century CE. Heritage 2025, 8, 412. https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage8100412
Hofmann-de Keijzer R, Radman-Livaja I, Bogensperger I, Heiss AG, Petznek B. Let the Lead Tags Talk—Terms on Carnuntum Tesserae Referring to Textiles, Colours and Dyeing in the 2nd Century CE. Heritage. 2025; 8(10):412. https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage8100412
Chicago/Turabian StyleHofmann-de Keijzer, Regina, Ivan Radman-Livaja, Ines Bogensperger, Andreas G. Heiss, and Beatrix Petznek. 2025. "Let the Lead Tags Talk—Terms on Carnuntum Tesserae Referring to Textiles, Colours and Dyeing in the 2nd Century CE" Heritage 8, no. 10: 412. https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage8100412
APA StyleHofmann-de Keijzer, R., Radman-Livaja, I., Bogensperger, I., Heiss, A. G., & Petznek, B. (2025). Let the Lead Tags Talk—Terms on Carnuntum Tesserae Referring to Textiles, Colours and Dyeing in the 2nd Century CE. Heritage, 8(10), 412. https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage8100412

