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Cosmeceutical Properties of Two Cultivars of Red Raspberry Grown under Different Conditions

1
Laboratory of Enzyme Technology, Department of Biotechnology, School of Food, Biotechnology and Development, Agricultural University of Athens, 75 Iera Odos Street, GR-11855 Athens, Greece
2
Department of Horticulture, University of Agricultural Science and Veterinary Medicine “Ion Ionescu de la Brad”, 700490 Iasi, Romania
3
Freshline Cosmetics, 1st Km Lavriou Ave Koropiou—Markopoulou, 19400 Koropi, Greece
4
Institute of Plant Breeding and Genetic Resources ELGO-DEMETER, Thermi, GR-57001 Thessaloniki, Greece
5
Institute of Applied Biosciences, CERTH, 6th km Charilaou-Thermis Road, P.O. Box 361, Thermi, GR-57001 Thessaloniki, Greece
6
Laboratory of Genetics and Plant Breeding, School of Agriculture, Forestry and Natural Environment, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, P.O. Box 261, GR-54124 Thessaloniki, Greece
7
Sea Spread Ltd., G/F, 81-85 Bonham Strand West Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Cosmetics 2018, 5(1), 20; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics5010020
Received: 21 December 2017 / Revised: 20 February 2018 / Accepted: 25 February 2018 / Published: 28 February 2018
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plants Used in Cosmetics)
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Abstract

Plant selection, input, and field management are proven strategies that produce high yields of crops bearing selected desirable characteristics for the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical industry. This study reports on the effect of substrate and light on selected quantitative and qualitative bioactive properties of two cultivars of Rubus idaeus L (‘Ruvi’ and ‘Cayuga’). Our results demonstrated that the quantitative and qualitative fruit characteristics (yield, fruit dimensions, titratable acidity, and total soluble solids contents), plant growth, biosynthesis of secondary metabolites, and total antioxidant capacity, are significantly affected by genotype, light intensity, and substrate type. Fruits from ‘Ruvi’ plants cultivated under low light conditions, on soil/peat substrate exhibited high levels of antioxidant capacity, phenolics, flavonoids, anthocyanins, and high inhibitory potency towards the skin-regulating enzymes tyrosinase and elastase. Extract derived from these fruits was formulated into a topical skin care cream. This cream exhibited excellent compatibility and stability characteristics. Our research concluded that quantity and quality of Rubus idaeus L. fruits could be efficiently managed through conventional agronomic practices. Our project determined the optimal agronomic management practices to produce desirable characteristics and maximize bioactive content that determine the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical quality of the red raspberry. View Full-Text
Keywords: anthocyanins; cosmeceuticals; antioxidant capacity; elastase; phenolics; flavonoids; raspberries; tyrosinase anthocyanins; cosmeceuticals; antioxidant capacity; elastase; phenolics; flavonoids; raspberries; tyrosinase
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Papaioanou, M.; Chronopoulou, E.G.; Ciobotari, G.; Efrose, R.C.; Sfichi-Duke, L.; Chatzikonstantinou, M.; Pappa, E.; Ganopoulos, I.; Madesis, P.; Nianiou-Obeidat, I.; Zeng, T.; Labrou, N.E. Cosmeceutical Properties of Two Cultivars of Red Raspberry Grown under Different Conditions. Cosmetics 2018, 5, 20.

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