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Contribution of Infragravity Waves to Run-up and Overwash in the Pertuis Breton Embayment (France)

1
Hydraulic Engineering, Delft University of Technology, 2628 CN Delft, The Netherlands
2
UMR 7266 Littoral, Environment and Societies, CNRS-University of La Rochelle, 17000 La Rochelle, France
3
Water Science and Engineering, IHE-Delft Institute for Water Education, 2611 AX Delft, The Netherlands
4
Laboratory of Research in Geosciences and Energies, University of the French West Indies, 97157 Pointe-à-Pitre, Guadeloupe, France
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7(7), 205; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7070205
Received: 20 May 2019 / Revised: 27 June 2019 / Accepted: 28 June 2019 / Published: 2 July 2019
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Selected Papers from Coastlab18 Conference)
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Abstract

Wave run-up and dune overwash are typically assessed using empirical models developed for a specific range of often-simplistic conditions. Field experiments are essential in extending these formulae; yet obtaining comprehensive field data under extreme conditions is often challenging. Here, we use XBeach Surfbeat (XB-SB)—a shortwave-averaged but wave-group resolving numerical model—to complement a field campaign, with two main objectives: i) to assess the contribution of infragravity (IG) waves to washover development in a partially-sheltered area, with a highly complex bathymetry; and ii) to evaluate the unconventional nested-modeling approach that was applied. The analysis shows that gravity waves rapidly decrease across the embayment while IG waves are enhanced. Despite its exclusion of gravity-band swash, XB-SB is able to accurately reproduce both the large-scale hydrodynamics—wave heights and mean water levels across the 30 × 10 km embayment; and the local morphodynamics—steep post-storm dune profile and washover deposit. These findings show that the contribution of IG waves to dune overwash along the bay is significant and highlight the need for any method or model to consider IG waves when applied to similar environments. As many phase-averaged numerical models that are typically used for large-scale coastal applications exclude IG waves, XB-SB may prove to be a suitable alternative. View Full-Text
Keywords: combined field experiment and numerical modeling; overwash; wave run-up; infragravity waves; XBeach; coastal flooding; dune erosion combined field experiment and numerical modeling; overwash; wave run-up; infragravity waves; XBeach; coastal flooding; dune erosion
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This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited (CC BY 4.0).
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Lashley, C.H.; Bertin, X.; Roelvink, D.; Arnaud, G. Contribution of Infragravity Waves to Run-up and Overwash in the Pertuis Breton Embayment (France). J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7, 205.

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