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Open AccessArticle

A Study of the Maximum Momentum Flux in the Solitary Wave Run-Up Zone over Back-Reef Slopes Based on a Boussinesq Model

1
Ocean College, Zhejiang University, Zhoushan 316021, China
2
Key Laboratory of Port, Waterway & Sedimentation Engineering, Ministry of Communications, Nanjing 210029, China
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7(4), 109; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040109
Received: 12 March 2019 / Revised: 12 April 2019 / Accepted: 13 April 2019 / Published: 18 April 2019
(This article belongs to the Section Coastal Engineering)
This study utilized a shock-capturing Boussinesq model FUNWAVE-TVD to investigate the maximum momentum flux in the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef slopes. Validation results of the present model were compared to the previous version of FUNWAVE using the eddy viscosity breaking model to demonstrate the advantages of the shock-capturing method in predicting the breaking solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs. A series of numerical experiments was designed comprehensively and performed then to obtain a new formulation for the envelope of the spatial distribution of the maximum momentum flux within the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef beaches, which is different from the one used over uniformly-sloping beaches. Finally, the effects of the variation of reef parameters (i.e., the fore-reef slope angle, reef flat width, and water depth over the reef flat) on the maximum momentum flux at the initial shoreline were investigated to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of tsunami hazard. View Full-Text
Keywords: fringing reefs; solitary wave; run-up; momentum flux; shock-capturing Boussinesq model fringing reefs; solitary wave; run-up; momentum flux; shock-capturing Boussinesq model
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Liu, W.; Shao, K.; Ning, Y. A Study of the Maximum Momentum Flux in the Solitary Wave Run-Up Zone over Back-Reef Slopes Based on a Boussinesq Model. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7, 109.

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