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Article

An Operational Wave System within the Monitoring Program of a Mediterranean Beach

Department of Chemical and Geological Sciences, University of Cagliari, Cittadella Universitaria, 09042 Monserrato (CA), Italy
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Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Current address: France Energies Marines, Bâtiment Cap Océan, Technopôle Brest Iroise, 525 Avenue Alexis de Rochon, 29280 Plouzané, France.
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7(2), 32; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7020032
Received: 20 December 2018 / Revised: 26 January 2019 / Accepted: 30 January 2019 / Published: 2 February 2019
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Selected Papers from Coastlab18 Conference)
This work assesses the performance of an operational wave system in the Mediterranean Sea by comparing computed data with measurements collected at different water depths. Nearshore data measurements were collected through a field experiment carried out at Poetto beach (Southern Sardinia, Italy) during spring 2017. In addition to coastal observations, we use intermediate and deep water wave data measured by two buoys: one situated North-West of Corsica and the other in the Gulf of Lion. The operational wave system runs once a day to predict the wave evolution up to five days in advance. We use a multi-grid approach in which a large grid extends over the entire Mediterranean basin and a fine grid covers the coastal seas surrounding the islands of Sardinia and Corsica. The comparison with measurements shows that the operational wave system is able to satisfactorily reproduce the wave evolution in deep and intermediate waters where the relative error of the significant wave height is 17%. The error exceeding 25% in coastal waters suggests that the use of a finer grid and the coupling with an atmospheric model able to catch local effects is advisable to accurately address nearshore wave processes driven by coastal wind forcing. View Full-Text
Keywords: operational system; wave forecast; wave modelling; Mediterranean Sea; monitoring program; beach management operational system; wave forecast; wave modelling; Mediterranean Sea; monitoring program; beach management
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MDPI and ACS Style

Ruju, A.; Passarella, M.; Trogu, D.; Buosi, C.; Ibba, A.; De Muro, S. An Operational Wave System within the Monitoring Program of a Mediterranean Beach. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7, 32. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7020032

AMA Style

Ruju A, Passarella M, Trogu D, Buosi C, Ibba A, De Muro S. An Operational Wave System within the Monitoring Program of a Mediterranean Beach. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering. 2019; 7(2):32. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7020032

Chicago/Turabian Style

Ruju, Andrea, Marinella Passarella, Daniele Trogu, Carla Buosi, Angelo Ibba, and Sandro De Muro. 2019. "An Operational Wave System within the Monitoring Program of a Mediterranean Beach" Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 7, no. 2: 32. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7020032

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