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J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2017, 5(1), 1;

Role of Beach Morphology in Wave Overtopping Hazard Assessment

Department of Geography and Planning, School of Environmental Sciences, University of Liverpool, Roxby Building, Chatham St., Liverpool L69 7ZT, UK
National Oceanography Centre, Joseph Proudman Building, 6 Brownlow St., Liverpool L3 5DA, UK
European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts, Shinfield Park, Reading RG2 9AX, UK
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Academic Editor: Dong-Sheng Jeng
Received: 18 August 2016 / Revised: 2 December 2016 / Accepted: 19 December 2016 / Published: 5 January 2017
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Modelling Waves in Coasts and Estuaries)
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Understanding the role of beach morphology in controlling wave overtopping volume will further minimise uncertainties in flood risk assessments at coastal locations defended by engineered structures worldwide. XBeach is used to model wave overtopping volume for a 1:200 year joint probability distribution of waves and water levels with measured, pre- and post-storm beach profiles. The simulation with measured bathymetry is repeated with and without morphological evolution enabled during the modelled storm event. This research assesses the role of morphology in controlling wave overtopping volumes for hazardous events that meet the typical design level of coastal defence structures. Results show that disabling storm-driven morphology under-represents modelled wave overtopping volumes by up to 39% under high H s conditions and has a greater impact on the wave overtopping rate than the variability applied within the boundary conditions due to the range of wave-water level combinations that meet the 1:200 year joint probability criterion. Accounting for morphology in flood modelling is therefore critical for accurately predicting wave overtopping volumes and the resulting flood hazard and to assess economic losses. View Full-Text
Keywords: sea defence breaching; storm morphology; wave overtopping; XBeach; flood hazard; joint probability; beach morphodynamics; wave modelling sea defence breaching; storm morphology; wave overtopping; XBeach; flood hazard; joint probability; beach morphodynamics; wave modelling

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Phillips, B.T.; Brown, J.M.; Bidlot, J.-R.; Plater, A.J. Role of Beach Morphology in Wave Overtopping Hazard Assessment. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2017, 5, 1.

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