On the Intersite Variability in Inter-Annual Nearshore Sandbar Cycles
Abstract
:1. Introduction
2. Environmental Settings
2.1. Cross-Shore Bed Profile Characteristics
2.2. Sandbar Characteristics
2.3. Wave and Tidal Characteristics
3. Approach
3.1. Model Description
3.2. Hindcast Model Simulations
3.3. Analysis Method
4. Model Results
4.1. The Reference Cases (Scenarios NN and EE)
4.2. Effects of Wave Climate vs. Sediment Size and Profile (Scenarios EN and NE)
4.3. Effects of Profile Slope and Bar Characteristics
5. The Relative Influence of Environmental Parameters on Tr
5.1. Introduction
5.2. Effect of the Profile Slope on the Bar Migration Rate in the Inner Surf Zone
5.3. Identification of the Effects of Hrms, θ and d50 on Tr
- 1)
- A relatively larger increase in hXb as a bar gradually migrates offshore which in turn causes fewer waves to break on the bar and consequently reduces the offshore bar migration.
- 2)
- Enhanced wave breaking results in relatively larger bars (e.g., see Figure 13b) that will also reduce the offshore migration (e.g. compare scenarios ENNN and NN in Table 5; see also [19]). Although a larger bar amplitude implies a somewhat smaller hXb at the same cross-shore location (and Tr), the increase in hXb as a bar migrates offshore dominates the Tr response.
- 3)
- An increased water depth where bar decay sets in due to more intense wave breaking. Combined with the more energetic wave climate this increases the bar zone width at Egmond by about 200 m compared to Noordwijk (as was both observed (Figure 2) and predicted (Figure 8)). Therefore, it takes longer for the bars to migrate across this region (e.g., a mean offshore migration rate of 40 m/year would lead to a five year increase in Tr).
6. Discussion
7. Conclusions
Acknowledgments
Author Contributions
Conflicts of Interest
References
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Grain size | Noordwijk (µm) [14] | Egmond (µm) [28] |
---|---|---|
d50 | 180 | 265 |
d90 | 280 | 380 |
dss | 170 | 240 |
Scenario | Profile and Sediment | Wave Time Series |
---|---|---|
NN | Noordwijk | Noordwijk |
EN | Egmond | Noordwijk |
NE | Noordwijk | Egmond |
EE | Egmond | Egmond |
Profile Code | Bar | Shoreface | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Upper/ d50 | Middle | Lower | ||
1 (ENNN) | Egmond | Noordwijk | Noordwijk | Noordwijk |
2 (NENN) | Noordwijk | Egmond | Noordwijk | Noordwijk |
3 (EENN) | Egmond | Egmond | Noordwijk | Noordwijk |
4 (NNEN) | Noordwijk | Noordwijk | Egmond | Noordwijk |
5 (NNNE) | Noordwijk | Noordwijk | Noordwijk | Egmond |
Scenario | Profile/Sediment | Wave Conditions | Cycle Period (years) |
---|---|---|---|
NN | Noordwijk | Noordwijk | 4.8 |
EN | Egmond | Noordwijk | 14.6 |
NE | Noordwijk | Egmond | 2.4 |
EE | Egmond | Egmond | 8.7 |
Profile Code | Bar return period, Tr (years) Wave Time Series | Relative change in Tr (−) Wave Time Series | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Noordwijk | Egmond | Noordwijk | Egmond | |
1 (ENNN) | 6.5 | 2.8 | 1.36 (NN) | 1.17 (NE) |
2 (NENN) | *7.0 | 6.1 | *1.46 (NN) | 2.55 (NE) |
3 (EENN) | 12.9 | 7.0 | 0.89/2.69 (EN/NN) | 0.80/2.91 (EE/NE) |
4 (NNEN) | 4.6 | 2.2 | 0.95 (NN) | 0.90 (NE) |
5 (NNNE) | 5.1 | 2.6 | 1.05 (NN) | 1.10 (NE) |
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Walstra, D.-J.R.; Wesselman, D.A.; Van der Deijl, E.C.; Ruessink, G. On the Intersite Variability in Inter-Annual Nearshore Sandbar Cycles. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2016, 4, 15. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse4010015
Walstra D-JR, Wesselman DA, Van der Deijl EC, Ruessink G. On the Intersite Variability in Inter-Annual Nearshore Sandbar Cycles. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering. 2016; 4(1):15. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse4010015
Chicago/Turabian StyleWalstra, Dirk-Jan R., Daan A. Wesselman, Eveline C. Van der Deijl, and Gerben Ruessink. 2016. "On the Intersite Variability in Inter-Annual Nearshore Sandbar Cycles" Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 4, no. 1: 15. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse4010015
APA StyleWalstra, D.-J. R., Wesselman, D. A., Van der Deijl, E. C., & Ruessink, G. (2016). On the Intersite Variability in Inter-Annual Nearshore Sandbar Cycles. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 4(1), 15. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse4010015