Next Article in Journal
Effect of Compost and Vermicompost Amendments on Biochemical and Physiological Responses of Lady’s Finger (Abelmoschus esculentus L.) Grown under Different Salinity Gradients
Previous Article in Journal
Leveraging Drone Technology for Last-Mile Deliveries in the e-Tailing Ecosystem
Previous Article in Special Issue
Ecodesign for Industrial Furnaces and Ovens: A Review of the Current Environmental Legislation
 
 
Font Type:
Arial Georgia Verdana
Font Size:
Aa Aa Aa
Line Spacing:
Column Width:
Background:
Review

A Review of Sustainability Standards and Ecolabeling in the Textile Industry

by
Sofia Plakantonaki
1,
Kyriaki Kiskira
1,*,
Nikolaos Zacharopoulos
1,
Ioannis Chronis
2,
Fernando Coelho
3,
Amir Togiani
4,
Konstantinos Kalkanis
2 and
Georgios Priniotakis
1
1
Department of Industrial Design and Production Engineering, School of Engineering, University of West Attica, Campus 2 Thivon 250, 12244 Aigaleo, Greece
2
Department of Electrical and Electronics Engineering, School of Engineering, University of West Attica, Campus 2, Thivon 250, 12244 Aigaleo, Greece
3
Department of Materials Science and Engineering, Delft University of Technology, 2628 CD Delft, The Netherlands
4
Laborartory of Production Engineering, LUT University, Yliopistonkatu 34, 53850 Lappeenranta, Finland
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Sustainability 2023, 15(15), 11589; https://doi.org/10.3390/su151511589
Submission received: 9 May 2023 / Revised: 3 July 2023 / Accepted: 17 July 2023 / Published: 27 July 2023
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Industrial Design and Production Engineering for Sustainability)

Abstract

:
Environmental damage and the resulting global warming are two of the most serious threats to living species. These problems are the result of industrialization in all fields. The textile and fashion industries bear a negative impact on the environment and contribute significantly to water, air, and solid waste pollution. Over the last decades, consumer buying habits have shifted, and clothing purchases have increased dramatically. The manufacturing process of these textiles, from pretreatment to dyeing and finishing, involves the use of numerous chemicals that are harmful to both humans and the planet. Textiles have been identified as unsustainable products due to their entire life cycle, from raw material cultivation to manufacturing, and generate a large amount of toxic waste and greenhouse gases. Therefore, embedding sustainability in strategy is essential to meet evolving investor pressure, consumer demand, and regulatory requirements. More alternatives are available, such as ecofriendly textiles. Governments are promoting the idea of ecolabels and sustainability standards that endorse the textile’s “ecofriendliness”. Ecolabeling stimulates consumers and manufacturers to buy and produce ecotextiles, simultaneously allowing consumers to compare the various products. Consumers are gradually requesting more ecofriendly products. To save our environment and future generations, the textile industry must become more sustainable. Major brands should implement sustainable manufacturing practices. This review paper investigates the requirements of ecofriendly textiles, restricted substances, and ecolabeling in the textile industry and highlights the need to enhance the expertise and information existing in the design process with regard to the sustainability of finished products in order to create a more sustainable textile sector. Such a shift is only feasible if the designers are guided by a clear vision of design for sustainability.

1. Introduction

As the world’s population grows at an exponential rate, the demand for energy, food, and resources increases dramatically [1,2]. As a result, pollution to the environment increases, and nonrenewable resources such as water, land, and fossil fuels are depleted [3,4]. Global warming is the result of environmental pollution. The textile and fashion industry is a major polluter, contributing significantly to the pollution of water and air and producing solid waste [5]. Textile manufacturing occurs in many steps, such as pretreatment, dyeing, and finishing; involves the use of several harmful chemicals that generate a significant amount of toxic waste and greenhouse gases; and consumes a large amount of water [6,7,8]. For that reason, textiles are characterized as unsustainable products from raw material cultivation to manufacturing [5,9]. It is important to make the product non-toxic, but it is also essential to control pollution [10].
The introduction of new production equipment, together with a number of breakthroughs in the domains of textile technology and textile chemistry, signaled the beginning of substantial changes in the textile industry towards the end of the 18th century [11]. At the start of the 20th century, several industries reached their development peak. Due to the difficulty of manufacturing natural fiber at the time, several investigations on synthetic chemical products were conducted in an effort to significantly improve both the quality of life and the availability of goods for consumption [12]. Because the textile industry at the time was considerably smaller, the pollution it produced did not constitute a significant danger to the environment. Aside from that, the chemicals in use at the time were natural and biodegradable [11]. Synthetic fiber production and usage, however, have significantly expanded worldwide in recent decades [13]. The idea of rapid fashion has changed consumers’ shopping habits in addition to population increase [14].
With increased water consumption and pollution from synthetic textile displays introducing plastic or microplastic buildup on human bodies and the Earth [11,14], the cycle between water use and waste management is becoming shorter nowadays. One kilogram of cotton, which is equal to one t-shirt and a pair of trousers, is produced by cotton farming globally, using 20,000 L of water with 24% insecticides and 11% pesticides [5,15]. In 2020, global fiber production was 109 million tonnes and is growing year by year, compared to 95.6 million tonnes in 2015 [13]. Numerous novel dyes and auxiliaries were created and accumulated in the environment throughout the past century [16]. Consumers have become more cautious regarding greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions and environmental effects, and the fact that several chemicals have been proven to be potentially dangerous [6,7]. Legislation was thus passed to restrict or outlaw the use of certain drugs [7,17].
For sustainability, renewable resources might be considered. All items, including textiles, must be evaluated for sustainability [18]. The ecologically advantageous sustainability movement has recently gained support from almost every business. Sustainability refers to the persistence of the social, economic, and environmental facets of human civilization [19]. Synthetic fibers (such as polyester and nylon) depend on readily available fossil fuels, increasing GHG. Regenerated fibers are a good alternative to this fiber [10]. There is a transition taking place from petrochemistry to green chemistry [12]. By carefully managing raw resources, energy, trash, and products, the green notion seeks to minimize the environmental effect of industrial operations.
Governments promote ecolabels and sustainability standards that encourage the “ecofriendliness” of textiles. According to these legislations, textile manufacturers and product designers must pay special attention to these standards. In order for a product to be deemed “green,” it must be ecologically responsible at all stages of manufacturing, usage, and maintenance, as well as after its useful life has passed. Ecological, social, and economic concerns must coexist in product design [20]. Products that are safe for human health and the environment are given specific certifications by independent organizations.
There is a lack of consumer awareness regarding ecofriendly products and their life cycle. Undoubtedly, the first step is to increase consumer awareness and openness to change by choosing clothing made in countries with more stringent environmental regulations for textile factories and selecting products made from organic, ecofriendly fibers without the use of harmful and toxic chemicals. The term “Ecotextiles” refers to apparel and products made from natural fibers such as organic cotton, hemp, and bamboo, regenerated fibers, and organically dyed materials with natural dyes using a small amount of water, energy, and non-harmful chemicals. Currently, clothing includes ecolabels to help consumers identify environmentally friendly products.
Despite the fact that there are numerous ecolabeling schemes available around the globe that can be applied to the textile sector, there are no systematic techniques for determining which ecolabeling scheme is best for a certain clothing product. The ‘‘Ecolabel Index’’ is the world’s largest global registry of ecolabels, tracking more than 456 ecolabels in 199 countries representing 25 business sectors [21]. Around 100 ecolabels are used in the textile industry on both an international and national basis, spanning different stages of the manufacturing life cycle. Up to now, there has been no standardized method for a textile manufacturing company to choose an appropriate ecolabel. It is also clear that ecolabels produced in different parts of the world have given different impact criteria. There are currently no systematic assessments of textile ecolabeling and its criteria, making it difficult for textile sustainability practitioners to evaluate the current ecolabels and choose the optimal options for their industry.
Customers may wish to make a choice depending on the stage of the garment’s life cycle, as well as the location of the manufacturing process. It is important to perform an assessment of existing textile ecolabeling frameworks to aid in making the best choice of ecolabel for a certain textile product. As a result, this review paper offers comprehensive information about sustainable product design and manufacturing of textiles, restricted substances lists (RSLs) in the textile industry, and the most prevalent ecofriendly fibers. We also provide a summary of ecolabels currently in use in the textile sector, including their characteristics and criteria that are of great significance, current developments in textile ecolabels, and potential future research areas in the field. The study’s findings will help sustainability experts in the textile industry to select the ecolabeling schemes best suited for them to increase the value of their garment products, considering geographical factors, the stage of the product’s life cycle, and environmental impacts.

2. Sustainable Product Design and Manufacturing—Ecological Requirements

A product’s final use, regular use, and maintenance must all be taken into account by the designer while creating the product [22,23,24]. Environmental acceptability may be impacted by the choice of raw materials [25,26]. Combining recyclable fabrics with non-recyclable textiles is not appropriate [27]. Some clothing components, such as coatings and zippers, could not be ecofriendly. Despite the high expense of doing so, a manufacturer that strives for ecological manufacturing will think about replacing such components with ecologically acceptable and environmentally friendly items [28].
Additionally, textiles that are produced using traditional methods may have residual chemicals and volatile or skin-absorbable dyes. Some can result in allergic responses or cancer [6]. In an effort to stop these negative consequences, as well as in response to new facts and growing ecological consciousness, ever-increasing limitations and prohibitions have been placed on the use of specific chemicals and dyestuffs [29]. Regulations governing the maximum permissible concentration of a chemical compound on textile treatment, or that is allowed to stay on a particular textile substrate, may—in certain situations—place restrictions on their usage [30]. Additionally, regulations for worker health and environmental protection are being tightened.
The duty for a product continues past the point of creation and lasts at least as long as the product is in use. It is vital that textile products do not release volatile organic compounds or other dangerous chemicals (e.g., heavy metals) while being used and cared for. The environmental impact of textile maintenance is greater and more severe than that of the manufacturing process itself [31,32]. When frequently washing worn fabrics, excessive volumes of water are typically utilized [33]. As a result, textile products should be created to require the least amount of washing and dry cleaning. Moreover, washing at a lower temperature is more cost-effective.
The product’s design should minimize dirt accumulation, and the colors should remain vibrant in most textiles all the way to the end of their useful life. Colorfastness is the ability of any colored textile material to retain its original color without fading, altering, or running when washed, wetted, cleaned, or exposed to light, heat, or other factors [34]. However, colorfastness is a major parameter for the use of harmful chemicals in textile dyeing and printing [35]. The textile industry should shift to more sustainable manufacturing by using sustainable natural dyes and low-impact fibers. However, despite significant advances in natural dye applications, bio-based colorants have a long way to go before they can be regarded as viable alternatives to synthetic colorants [36]. These disadvantages of natural dyes can be overcome by using environmentally friendly mordants, which are permitted at certain amounts for textile dyeing [37]. Low-impact fibers contain no dangerous chemicals and, ideally, are OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certified free of toxic substances. They require less rinsing, the absorption rate is higher, and they use less water.
Another issue caused by textile washing is the release of microplastics. Microplastics have recently been identified as a new and concerning source of marine contamination [38]. Microplastics are difficult to detect with the naked eye and biodegrade in marine environments, posing a problem because they can be ingested by organisms and infiltrate the food chain [39]. A significant source of microplastics appears to be synthetic fibers from washing clothes that contaminate wastewater [40]. De Falco et al. [40] demonstrated that the washing of woven polyester resulted in the greatest discharge of microplastics compared to knitted polyester and woven polypropylene, which was correlated with the fabric’s properties.
Additionally, odors that may arise from use and wear can be removed to increase the product’s functional life. Hanging tags and sewn-in labels should normally be used to identify textile products when they are first introduced to a store [41]. How and under what circumstances a particular product should be maintained should be covered in the care instructions. The need for antimicrobial treatment on particular fabrics, such as athletic clothing, is related to the fact that microbes break down human perspiration, and the resulting byproducts commonly release unpleasant scents [42].
The disposal of textiles, once their useful life is through, should also be the responsibility of textile product designers and producers [43]. The final alternative is to dispose of a product in a landfill; nevertheless, burning a product might provide certain amounts of energy [1,3]. However, recycling textiles and reusing them as fillers for other textile goods or as new products is the best approach [43,44].
The principle causes of environmental issues in this sector are the finishing procedures, which range from initial scouring and bleaching, through mercerization and dyeing, to the final finishing processes and coatings applied to fabrics [45]. Consequently, in order to reduce the adverse consequences of the aforementioned processes, it is crucial to monitor and manage wastewater pollution as well as exhaust air pollution.
Toxic and hazardous chemicals are replaced with ecologically preferred goods that have less detrimental impacts on the environment and human health [23]. Maximum energy, water, and chemical savings are targeted. The right choice of dyestuffs and chemicals combined with the best process management may significantly reduce the use of natural resources such as water and energy while also reducing environmental pollution.
Textile items must be long-lasting since ecodesign enables consumers to use them for a longer time. Three design elements make up this overall idea: design for disassembly, design for long-lasting style, and design for durability [46]. It is crucial that durable, high-quality materials be used, along with other components, and that seams be constructed in a way that prevents tearing out. The second idea takes into account the fashion sensibility of the customers and shifting fashion trends. By carefully selecting colors and designs that are thought to be timeless and appealing to a wide audience, designers prevent products from being rejected because they are thought to be out of trend. Longer usage and reuse are also encouraged by the increased resale value of timeless objects. Finally, how a textile product is put together affects whether and how simple it is to dismantle for repair, maintenance, component reuse, and/or recycling. Many fashion houses and retailers are thinking about ways to make their items “green”. Designers should start with more ethical or sustainable textile fibers and low-impact dyes and chemicals in order to produce more ethical or sustainable clothing.

3. Ecofriendly Textile Fibers—Classification and Ecofiber Market

Ecofriendly fibers might be natural or synthetic, but their manufacturing and processing must have a lower environmental impact than conventional fibers [12]. Figure 1 shows the classification of the most common ecofriendly fibers. There are fewer risks for people, especially farmers, when pesticides and synthetic fertilizers are excluded from or reduced during production [47]. Biopesticides can be used in place of synthetic chemical pesticides since they are less harmful to the environment and human health [48]. Many organic farms utilize Integrated Pest Management (IPM) instead of insecticides [49]. Overall pesticide handling optimization by adherence to existing standards may lead to a reduction in pesticide-related harmful effects on human health and the environment. Long used in the textile sectors, organic fibers (cotton, wool, silk), recycled cotton, naturally colored cotton, lyocell, maize, soya bean, recycled polyester, and others have recently gained prominence owing to their favorable effects on the environment.
Processors satisfy the RSLs requirements by carefully choosing dyes and chemicals based on accurate and trustworthy information provided by reputable suppliers. A number of myths regarding dyestuffs have developed as a result of a lack of clear information and the absence of universally accepted criteria for identifying ecofriendly dyes.
According to many studies [5,6,11,12,13,16,17,50], a sustainable approach should address:
  • Minimal chemical consumption;
  • Minimal use of energy and water;
  • Minimal pollution production;
  • Removal of hazardous chemicals from the supply chain.
As a result, sustainable textiles or apparel: (a) are made from renewable materials, (b) should be safe for humans and the environment, (c) are manufactured by workers in a safe environment, (d) are produced with the most efficient use of resources (e.g., water, energy), (e) are capable of being washed at low temperatures using environmentally friendly laundering agents, and (f) are capable of being returned safely to the environment at the end of their useful life.
Textiles are essential materials of daily living, and the fashion business is an important component of the worldwide economy. Due to the growth of the human population, global fiber production and consumption are increasing. The EUR 1.1 trillion garment business employs over 300 million people throughout the value chain [9]. In recent years, there has been a revolution in sustainable apparel due to increased awareness of ethically manufactured materials. It not only provides an extra source of economic benefit, but it also creates a new market for additional job opportunities and reduces the use of virgin resources and raw materials. These trends are also expected to play a key role in encouraging the organic fibers sector during the forecast period.
According to a recent market analysis report of Grand View Research [51], the worldwide ecofiber market is predicted to reach USD 77.17 billion by 2030, growing at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 7.6% from 2023 to 2030. This increase can be ascribed to an increase in concern about the adverse environmental effects of utilizing synthetic fibers, which has been a major factor leading to the growing demand for organic ecofiber in recent years. The increased reliance on chemicals and pesticides to improve crop yield has resulted in widespread environmental deterioration. As a result, governments and other regulatory agencies have been forced to comply with countless restrictions. These laws apply to both the manufacture and disposal of synthetic sources of fiber production.
This trend has also resulted in a desire for bio-based alternatives such as organic cotton, hemp, and other ecofiber sources. Figure 2 shows the ecofiber market by product and by application [51]. Asia Pacific dominated the ecofiber market in 2022, with a revenue of USD 14.90 billion, and is predicted to grow at the fastest CAGR of 9.2% during the forecast period. Over the forecast period, the market is expected to develop due to rising demand for garments and increased need for sustainable textiles. This scenario is anticipated to be mirrored in major economies such as India, China, Japan, and Australia in the coming years.
Global fiber output has nearly quadrupled in the last two decades, rising from 58 million tons in 2000 to 109 million tons in 2020. While it is unclear how the pandemic and other variables will affect future development, worldwide fiber production is predicted to expand by 34% to 146 million tons in 2030, assuming the industry returns to normal operations. Virgin fossil-based fibers grew in absolute terms from 55.7 million tons in 2016 to 59.7 million tons in 2020 [13].
The Organic Content Standard (OCS) and the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) are the primary organic textile standards. The Organic Content Standard (OCS) is a voluntary international standard that establishes criteria for third-party certification of organic input and chain of custody. The OCS aims to increase organic agriculture production. In April 2020, Textile Exchange announced OCS 3.0. Manuals have been revised, as has traceability between farm and first processor, GMO testing standards, and non-mulesing for organic wool. From 6181 in 2019 to 8680 in 2020, the number of OCS-certified locations grew [13].

4. Restricted Substances in Textiles

Due to the fact that different countries have varying environmental regulations (or none at all), the transfer of production owing to globalization has added levels of complication to sustainable textile manufacture [52]. The RSL is used by manufacturers, traders, and brands all across the world to ensure clean production. Consumers who expect transparent value chains, high-quality, safe, and environmentally friendly products are increasingly becoming more numerous and demanding [13,15]. Companies that are forward-thinking must acknowledge this issue. For the foreseeable future, the textile sector will continue to play a significant role in the industrial sector [13,51]. Having a finished product that is just safe for people is no longer adequate; the product must be ecologically safe for the duration of its existence and even beyond. Clean/green technology uses green chemistry and environmental science to protect the environment and natural resources while reducing the negative consequences of human activity [53,54].
The textile industry uses many chemicals that can be harmful to humans and the environment. Over 8000 synthetic chemicals are estimated to be utilized in the clothing manufacturing process, including carcinogens and hormone disruptors [54]. Flame retardants, AZO dyes, chromium, and formaldehydes are also on this list. As a result, customers may be exposed to dangerous compounds in textiles via skin contact, inhalation, or unintentional ingestion of dust generated by the materials [55]. The most sensitive to these compounds’ exposure are generally children and pregnant women, who may suffer more serious health consequences [55].
RSLs can be different for each country or industry. Unsurprisingly, governments and industries prioritize harmful substances that are essential to them in terms of causing serious health or environmental concerns. Nonetheless, certain chemicals are regularly found in RSLs. Table 1 shows the most common chemicals found in RSLs and processes in textile manufacturing that are related to these toxic substances [11,56].
The three major Chemical Regulations in the Textile and Fashion Industry are:
  • REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals): REACH is a European Union law that was created in 2006 to govern the impact of chemical substances on society and the environment [57].
  • The United Nations Basel Convention Treaty: This was signed in 1989 and bans the movement of hazardous waste between countries. It was designed to reduce the total toxicity of waste produced for environmental management purposes [58].
  • The MRSL (Manufactures Restricted Substance List): This list contains forbidden textile and fashion materials such as leather, rubber, foam, adhesives, and trim elements in textiles, garments, and footwear. It is significant because it restricts ingredients not just in the completed product but also throughout the supply chain. The Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) initiative created the list [59].
Chemicals are a useful tool for textile manufacturing, but they require cautious handling and application. Consequently, it is essential to be able to identify chemicals of grave concern and restrict their use, but the greater challenge is to find appropriate substitutes that are safe, efficient, and cost-effective. As a result, textile processing has become increasingly difficult; as individual firms develop their own specifications, the manufacturer faces an even greater challenge. In terms of efficacy, color range, fastness, evenness of shade, color yield, and consistency, a number of ostensibly ecofriendly products, such as natural dyes in lieu of synthetic colors, have proven to be less effective.

5. Ecolabeling in the Textile Industry

Ecocertification’s goal is to gain market access to environmentally friendly products [60]. The certification process should help since the information gathered may be very useful for market planning, development, and research. In addition, it enhances the product’s image and increases its credibility and visibility.
Ecolabels are hallmarks of approval granted to products deemed to have fewer negative effects on the environment. The primary purpose of ecolabeling is to encourage the manufacturing of environmentally friendly and sustainable products and to inform consumers to look for these labels before making purchases. The presence of ecolabels on the garments ensures that the products adhere to social, ecological, and environmental standards. In the textile industry, more than 100 labels are available for certification, and over 9000 textile manufacturers have been certified, according to available data [11,21]. Table 2 reports the ecocertificates, ecostandards, and ecolabels that are mainly used in the textile industry at a national and global level.
The main issues with ecolabeling include deceptive or false claims, as well as protectionism and unfair competition, as well as a lack of standards or strictness in the ecolabeling process or processes [61]. Ecolabeling educates the customer, separates the product from the target market, implies sustainability for the producer or seller, and alters or elevates the perception of the product along the whole supply chain [62]. While a global, transparent ecolabeling system encourages markets, regional ecolabeling can restrict market access and lessen global competitiveness [61,63]. Ecolabeling can also be used to construct market-based trade barriers.
Ecolabels are normally optional but, in some cases, are mandatory [64]. Three typologies of optional labeling are categorized in ISO 14020, the International Standard Organization [65]. Type I is optional and is determined by several factors. It is given out by independent programs that award a license allowing the use of environmental labels on products. Based on lifecycle considerations, these marks reflect an environmental choice within a category. The environmental claims made on the Type II labels are informative self-declarations. These are self-declarations based on linguistically widespread terminology, concepts, and symbols. Type III labels are optional, give quantitative environmental information in accordance with predetermined categories, and are created and confirmed by certified third parties. When it has been established that the applicant’s product satisfies the requirements, ecolabels are frequently given out by publicly funded or privately-run organizations. In circumstances where an industry’s voluntary participation in an ecolabeling system is deemed insufficient, governments may decide to compel enterprises to take actions to decrease environmental consequences, adopt specified technological modifications, or implement mandatory (national) labeling regulations [66]. Governments, for example, may require warning labels to enhance health and environmental safety. In some cases, producers that do not meet national criteria are denied access to domestic markets.
Greenwashing is a form of propaganda in which green marketing is ostensibly used to convey the idea that a company’s goods, objectives, or policies are environmentally advantageous [67]. Disparities in expenditure, or when considerably more money or effort is spent on “green” advertising than is really spent on ecologically friendly operations, are sometimes used to illustrate greenwashing [67]. A product containing harmful chemicals may have its name or label changed to invoke the natural world, while polluting energy companies may have their advertising campaigns spend millions of dollars to appear ecologically friendly [67,68].

6. Discussion

The textile industry is one of the most polluting, as well as one of the oldest and most diverse in the manufacturing industry. It consists of components from the textile, apparel, agricultural, dyes, chemical, retail and service, and waste processing industries. As the world’s population has increased in recent decades, the traditional textile business has depleted natural resources and polluted the environment, as its manufacturing requires chemical-intensive methods. Pollution control is so important in textile production that a product must be free of harmful consequences during the manufacturing process. The textile industry should prioritize environmental preservation. As a result, the use of environmentally friendly materials and ecolabeling should be prioritized. Despite the fact that the word “ecolabel” is still in its infancy, several firms now offer ecolabels. Furthermore, there is consumer illiteracy. It is critical to concentrate efforts across multiple fronts, as the governments must take the lead in defining and enforcing standards. Additionally, consumer education on ecolabels is critical.
Theoretically, ecolabeling is an effective method of regulating environmental externalities so long as the additional costs do not exceed the propensity of consumers to pay for environmental quality. In practice, however, ecolabeling does not always accomplish its initial aim of environmental improvement [69,70]. The ability to measure the global effectiveness of ecolabeling programs via international evaluations is crucial [66]. Concerning the extent to which ecolabeling should be regulated, a distinction should be made between interventions in the certification process and interventions pertaining to the use of ecolabels as a communication tool. Consumers should be systematically encouraged to purchase ecolabeled products, and industry should be pressured to implement ecolabels and more sustainable production techniques. At regional, national, and international levels, complementary policies should also target ecolabels. However, the simple provision of accurate product information is frequently insufficient to induce behavior change; therefore, behavioral and social research by academia could assist policymakers in better designing ecolabels to increase their overall effectiveness [71]. One prospective new strategy emphasizes the significance of educating young people about environmental issues and the relevance of ecolabels to these concerns.

7. Conclusions

Synthetic textiles have a significant detrimental influence on the environment, and ecotextiles clearly represent the future of the fashion and textile sectors. To protect the environment, the textile industry must take the lead and avoid employing hazardous chemicals. It is critical to raise awareness and participate in more socially responsible activities. To protect and enhance the environment for a better community and society, ethical practices must be widely embraced by society. The growth of a sustainable textile business depends on ecolabels as people are becoming more aware of ecofriendly textiles, which are also gaining market relevance, and they look for ecologically friendly products before making a purchase. As a method of informing customers about the environment and society, ecolabeling will keep expanding. However, it is crucial to have openness in the standards-setting process, as well as audits, performance, and conformity verification. The validity of ecolabeling may be in danger due to irregular testing techniques and questionable certification processes. Ecolabeling must motivate companies and customers to act ethically and sustainably. To enable ongoing advancement, ecocertification and ecolabels must be created by employing the greatest practices and approaches. This review examined the requirements for environmentally friendly textiles, restricted substances, and ecolabeling in the textile industry. Furthermore, in order to establish a more sustainable textile industry, there is a need to improve the knowledge and data available during the design phase regarding the sustainability of their final products. Sustainability experts in the textile industry, based on these results, can select the most appropriate ecolabeling schemes for increasing the value of their products, taking into consideration geographical factors, the product’s life cycle phase, and environmental impacts.

8. Future Directions

Sustainable textile products are becoming more popular among industries and businesses. There are several routes into the field of sustainability. The level to which companies have adopted ecolabeling should be made clear and transparent. Third-party certification of environmental standards frequently adds credibility to sustainability. Many of the most effective ecolabels are supported by issue-driven organizations. Third-party verification can range from qualitative validation of general claims to comprehensive verification of all phases of a product’s entire lifespan evaluation. Given the low levels of consumer trust in large firms, external verification is an essential component of any genuine environmental claim. Because customer consumption and disposal activities emit CO2, educating, inspiring, and motivating people to behave in favor of sustainability is critical to the success of any ecolabel. As a result, activities to educate consumers should be implemented. This can be accomplished through the use of trustworthy ecolabels with the necessary laws, information, and advertisements in different media. Academics, practitioners, and policymakers should increase consumer awareness by organizing training programs, surveys, and studies that are focused on consumer behavior. Consumers may be driven to purchase more sustainable products after being taught. Everyone, from the manufacturer to the buyer, must remember to “reduce, reuse, and recycle” in order to achieve sustainability. Another important aspect identified that should be taken into account is that different standards have different implications on costs and benefits. More stringent environmental standards enforced by higher-integrity labels do not always translate into higher selling prices; higher prices commanded by labeled products do not always imply that a firm will derive higher profits from ecolabeling and auditing fees paid per product unit being inspected for ensuring compliance with an ecolabel standard (rather than participation fees paid upfront) is the primary de facto barrier to business involvement in ecolabeling [72]. A future study could examine the economic sustainability and costs of different standards and ecolabeling.

Author Contributions

Conceptualization, K.K. (Kyriaki Kiskira) and S.P.; methodology, K.K. (Kyriaki Kiskira), S.P. and F.C.; validation, I.C., N.Z. and K.K. (Konstantinos Kalkanis); formal analysis, N.Z. and A.T.; investigation, S.P., K.K. (Kyriaki Kiskira), I.C. and N.Z.; resources, S.P., K.K. (Kyriaki Kiskira) and G.P.; data curation, K.K. (Kyriaki Kiskira), I.C., F.C. and K.K. (Konstantinos Kalkanis); writing—original draft preparation, S.P., K.K. (Kyriaki Kiskira) and F.C.; writing—review and editing, K.K. (Kyriaki Kiskira), I.C., K.K. (Konstantinos Kalkanis) and G.P.; visualization, S.P. and K.K. (Kyriaki Kiskira); supervision, G.P.; project administration, G.P.; funding acquisition, G.P. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of the manuscript.

Funding

This research has been co-funded by the European Regional Development Fund of the European Union and Greek national funds through the Operational Program Competitiveness, Entrepreneurship, and Innovation, under the call RESEARCH—CREATE—INNOVATE (Project code: T2EDK-00084).

Institutional Review Board Statement

Not applicable.

Informed Consent Statement

Not applicable.

Data Availability Statement

Not applicable.

Conflicts of Interest

The authors declare no conflict of interest.

References

  1. Kalkanis, K.; Alexakis, D.E.; Kyriakis, E.; Kiskira, K.; Lorenzo-Llanes, J.; Themelis, N.J.; Psomopoulos, C.S. Transforming Waste to Wealth, Achieving Circular Economy. Circ. Econ. Sustain. 2022, 2, 1541–1559. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  2. Hatzilyberis, K.; Tsakanika, L.A.; Lymperopoulou, T.; Georgiou, P.; Kiskira, K.; Tsopelas, F.; Ochsenkühn, K.M.; Ochsenkühn-Petropoulou, M. Design of an advanced hydrometallurgy process for the intensified and optimized industrial recovery of scandium from bauxite residue. Chem. Eng. Process. Process Intensif. 2020, 155, 108015. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  3. Psomopoulos, C.S.; Kiskira, K.; Kalkanis, K.; Leligou, H.C.; Themelis, N.J. The role of energy recovery from wastes in the decarbonization efforts of the EU power sector. IET Renew. Power Gener. 2022, 16, 48–64. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  4. Kiskira, K.; Papirio, S.; Pechaud, Y.; Matassa, S.; van Hullebusch, E.D.; Esposito, G. Evaluation of Fe (II)-driven autotrophic denitrification in packed-bed reactors at different nitrate loading rates. Process Saf. Environ. Prot. 2020, 142, 317–324. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  5. Vercalsteren, A.; Nicolau, M.; Lafond, E. Textiles and the Environment in a Circular Economy. Eionet Report 2019- ETC/WMGE 2019/6. Available online: https://www.eionet.europa.eu/etcs/etc-wmge/products/etc-wmge-reports/textiles-and-the-environment-in-a-circular-economy (accessed on 10 January 2023).
  6. Sivaramakrishnan, C.N. Pollution in textile industry. Colourage 2009, 16, 66–68. [Google Scholar]
  7. Huang, B.; Zhao, J.; Geng, Y.; Tian, Y.; Jiang, P. Energy-related GHG emissions of the textile industry in China. Resour. Conserv. Recycl. 2017, 119, 69–77. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  8. WWF. Cotton Facts. Available online: https://www.worldwildlife.org/industries/cotton (accessed on 15 December 2022).
  9. ten Wolde, A.; Korneeva, P. Circular Fashion Advocacy, A Strategy towards a Circular Fashion Industry in Europe. Report 2019, Ecopreneur.eu. Available online: https://ecopreneur.eu/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/EcoP-Circular-Fashion-Advocacy-Report-28-3-19.pdf (accessed on 15 January 2023).
  10. Plakantonaki, S.; Stergiou, M.; Panagiotatos, G.; Kiskira, K.; Priniotakis, G. Regenerated cellulosic fibers from agricultural waste. AIP Conf. Proc. 2022, 2430, 080006. [Google Scholar]
  11. Choudhury, R.A.K. Development of eco-labels for sustainable textiles. In Roadmap to Sustainable Textile and Clothing: Regulatory Aspects and Sustainability Standards of Textiles and the Clothing Supply Chain, 1st ed.; Muthu, S.S., Ed.; Springer: Cham, Switzerland, 2015; pp. 137–174. [Google Scholar]
  12. Periyasamy, A.P.; Militky, J. Sustainability in Regenerated Textile Fibers. In Sustainability in the Textile and Apparel Industries, 1st ed.; Muthu, S.S., Gardetti, M.A., Eds.; Springer: Cham, Switzerland, 2020; pp. 63–95. [Google Scholar]
  13. Pepper, L.R.; Truscott, L. Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2021. Textile Exchange. Available online: https://textileexchange.org/app/uploads/2021/08/Textile-Exchange_Preferred-Fiber-and-Materials-Market-Report_2021.pdf (accessed on 11 November 2022).
  14. Buchel, S.; Roorda, C.; Schipper, K.; Loorbach, D.; Janssen, R. The Transition to Good Fashion. DRIFT Report 2018. Rotterdam: Erasmus University Rotterdam. Available online: https://drift.eur.nl/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/FINAL_report.pdf (accessed on 8 October 2022).
  15. UNECE. Fashion Is an Environmental and Social Emergency, But Can also Drive Progress towards the Sustainable Development Goals. Available online: https://unece.org/forestry/news/fashion-environmental-and-social-emergency-can-also-drive-progress-towards (accessed on 18 December 2022).
  16. Baaka, N.; Khiari, R.; Haji, A. Ecofriendly Dyeing of Textile Materials with Natural Colorants from Date Palm Fiber Fibrillium. Sustainability 2023, 15, 1688. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  17. EUR-Lex. Access to European Law. Regulation 1007/2011 on Fibre Names and Related Marking of the Fibre Composition of Textile Products. Available online: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32011R1007&from=EN (accessed on 11 January 2023).
  18. Shirvanimoghaddam, K.; Motamed, B.; Ramakrishna, S.; Naebe, M. Death by waste: Fashion and textile circular economy case. Sci. Total Environ. 2020, 718, 137317. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  19. Ben-Eli, M.U. Sustainability: Definition and five core principles, a systems perspective. Sustain. Sci. 2018, 13, 1337–1343. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  20. Thiry, M.C. Following the Fabric lifecycle. AATCC Rev. 2009, 9, 22–29. [Google Scholar]
  21. Ecolabel Index. Available online: https://www.ecolabelindex.com/ecolabels/?st=category,textiles (accessed on 25 February 2023).
  22. Angelova, R.A.; Sofronova, D. Sustainable Textiles: Design of New Weave Patterns Based on Texts. Sustainability 2023, 15, 1614. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  23. Kalkanis, K.; Kiskira, K.; Papageorgas, P.; Kaminaris, S.D.; Piromalis, D.; Banis, G.; Mpelesis, D.; Batagiannis, A. Advanced Manufacturing Design of an Emergency Mechanical Ventilator via 3D Printing—Effective Crisis Response. Sustainability 2023, 15, 2857. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  24. Psomopoulos, C.S.; Kalkanis, K.; Chatzistamou, E.D.; Kiskira, K.; Ioannidis, G.C.; Kaminaris, S.D. End of life treatment of photovoltaic panels. Expected volumes up to 2045 in EU. AIP Conf. Proc. 2022, 2437, 20084–20098. [Google Scholar]
  25. Fernández, V.; Laborda, E.; Del-Busto, F.; Bartolomé, C. Social Perspectives towards Biobased Products and Textiles. Sustainability 2023, 15, 2284. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  26. Toghyani, A.E.; Matthews, S.; Varis, J. Feasibility assessment of a wood-plastic composite post-production process: Cuttability. Procedia Manuf. 2018, 25, 271–278. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  27. Lee, H.W. Development of Sustainable Creative Three-Dimensional Virtual Woven Textiles Using Clothing Waste. Sustainability 2023, 15, 2263. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  28. Bourtsalas, A.C.; Papadatos, P.E.; Kiskira, K.; Kalkanis, K.; Psomopoulos, C.S. Ecodesign for Industrial Furnaces and Ovens: A Review of the Current Environmental Legislation. Sustainability 2023, 15, 9436. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  29. Patra, A.K.; Pariti, S.R.K. Restricted substances for textiles. Text. Prog. 2022, 54, 1–101. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  30. Dulo, B.; De Somer, T.; Phan, K.; Roosen, M.; Githaiga, J.; Raes, K.; De Meester, S. Evaluating the potential of natural dyes from nutshell wastes: Sustainable colouration and functional finishing of wool fabric. Sustain. Mater. Technol. 2022, 34, 518–531. [Google Scholar]
  31. Lant, N.J.; Hayward, A.S.; Peththawadu, M.M.; Sheridan, K.J.; Dean, J.R. Microfiber release from real soiled consumer laundry and the impact of fabric care products and washing conditions. PLoS ONE 2020, 15, 233332–233350. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  32. Yun, C.; Patwary, S.; LeHew, M.L.; Kim, J. Sustainable care of textile products and its environmental impact: Tumble-drying and ironing processes. Fibers Polym. 2017, 18, 590–596. [Google Scholar]
  33. Rotzler, S.; Krshiwoblozki, M.V.; Schneider-Ramelow, M. Washability of e-textiles: Current testing practices and the need for standardization. Text. Res. J. 2021, 91, 2401–2417. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  34. Iqbal, S.; Ansari, T.N. Extraction and application of natural dyes. In Sustainable Practices in the Textile Industry, 1st ed.; Rather, L.J., Shabbir, M., Haji, A., Eds.; Scrivener Publishing LLC: Beverly, MA, USA, 2021; pp. 1–40. [Google Scholar]
  35. Uddin, F. Environmental hazard in textile dyeing wastewater from local textile industry. Cellulose 2021, 28, 10715–10739. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  36. Mandal, S.; Venkatramani, J. A review of plant-based natural dyes in leather application with a special focus on color fastness characteristics. Environ. Sci. Pollut. Res. 2023, 30, 48769–48777. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  37. Choudhury, A.K.R. Eco-friendly dyes and dyeing. Adv. Mater. Technol. Environ. 2018, 2, 145–176. [Google Scholar]
  38. Gross, M. Oceans of plastic waste. Curr. Biol. 2015, 25, 93–96. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [Green Version]
  39. Rochman, C.M.; Tahir, A.; Williams, S.L.; Baxa, D.V.; Lam, R.; Miller, J.T.; Teh, F.C.; Werorilangi, S.; Teh, S.J. Anthropogenic debris in seafood: Plastic debris and fibers from textiles in fish and bivalves sold for human consumption. Sci. Rep. 2015, 5, 14340. [Google Scholar]
  40. De Falco, F.; Gullo, M.P.; Gentile, G.; Di Pace, E.; Cocca, M.; Gelabert, L.; Brouta-Agnésa, M.; Rovira, A.; Escudero, R.; Villalba, R.; et al. Evaluation of microplastic release caused by textile washing processes of synthetic fabrics. Environ. Pollut. 2018, 236, 916–925. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  41. Byrd, K.; Su, J. Investigating consumer behaviour for environmental, sustainable and social apparel. Int. J. Cloth. Sci. Technol. 2021, 33, 336–352. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  42. Lou, L.; Yu, W.; Ramkumar, S. Wearable and smart responsive textiles. In High Performance Technical Textiles, 1st ed.; Paul, P., Ed.; John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.: West Sussex, UK, 2019; pp. 439–473. [Google Scholar]
  43. Pandit, P.; Nadathur, G.T.; Jose, S. Upcycled and low-cost sustainable business for value-added textiles and fashion. In Circular Economy in Textiles and Apparel, 1st ed.; Muthu, S.S., Ed.; Elsevier Ltd.: Amsterdam, The Netherlands, 2019; pp. 95–122. [Google Scholar]
  44. Pandey, R.; Pandit, P.; Pandey, S.; Mishra, S. Solutions for sustainable fashion and textile industry. In Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles: A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach, 1st ed.; Pandit, P., Ahmed, S., Singha, K., Shrivastava, S., Eds.; John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.: West Sussex, UK, 2020; pp. 33–72. [Google Scholar]
  45. Madhav, S.; Ahamad, A.; Singh, P.; Mishra, P.K. A review of textile industry: Wet processing, environmental impacts, and effluent treatment methods. Environ. Qual. Manag. 2018, 27, 31–41. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  46. Dissanayake, D.G.K.; Weerasinghe, D. Towards circular economy in fashion: Review of strategies, barriers and enablers. Circ. Econ. Sustain. 2021, 2, 25–45. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  47. Durham, T.C.; Mizik, T. Comparative economics of conventional, organic, and alternative agricultural production systems. Economies 2021, 9, 64–84. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  48. Srijita, D. Biopesticides: An ecofriendly approach for pest control. World J. Pharm. Pharm. Sci. 2015, 4, 250–265. [Google Scholar]
  49. Beyond Pesticides. Defining a Strong IPM or EPM Program. Available online: https://www.beyondpesticides.org/resources/safety-source-on-pesticide-providers/what-is-integrated-pest-management (accessed on 26 June 2023).
  50. Harsanto, B.; Primiana, I.; Sarasi, V.; Satyakti, Y. Sustainability Innovation in the Textile Industry: A Systematic Review. Sustainability 2023, 15, 1549. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  51. Grand View Research. Market Analysis Report 2021. Available online: https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/eco-fiber-market# (accessed on 10 April 2023).
  52. Jia, F.; Yin, S.; Chen, L.; Chen, X. The circular economy in the textile and apparel industry: A systematic literature review. J. Clean. Prod. 2020, 259, 120728–120748. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  53. Kiskira, K.; Lymperopoulou, T.; Lourentzatos, I.; Tsakanika, L.A.; Pavlopoulos, C.; Papadopoulou, K.; Ochsenkühn, K.M.; Tsopelas, F.; Chatzitheodoridis, E.; Lyberatos, G.; et al. Bioleaching of Scandium from Bauxite Residue using Fungus Aspergillus Niger. Waste Biomass Valorization 2023, 1, 1–14. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  54. Nabil, I.; Chaudhery, M. Green Chemistry for Sustainable Textiles: Modern Design and Approaches, 1st ed.; Woodhead Publishing: Duxford, UK, 2021; pp. 1–491. [Google Scholar]
  55. Rovira, J.; Domingo, J.L. Human health risks due to exposure to inorganic and organic chemicals from textiles: A review. Environ. Res. 2019, 168, 62–69. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  56. de Oliveira Neto, G.C.; Correia, J.M.F.; Silva, P.C.; de Oliveira Sanches, A.G.; Lucato, W.C. Cleaner Production in the textile industry and its relationship to sustainable development goals. J. Clean. Prod. 2019, 228, 1514–1525. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  57. ECHA, EU. Available online: https://echa.europa.eu/regulations/reach/understanding-reach (accessed on 15 January 2023).
  58. UN, Environmnet Programme. Available online: http://www.basel.int/TheConvention/Overview/tabid/1271/Default.aspx (accessed on 15 March 2023).
  59. ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substance List. Available online: https://www.roadmaptozero.com/?locale=en (accessed on 20 April 2023).
  60. Henninger, C.E. Traceability the new eco-label in the slow-fashion industry?—Consumer perceptions and micro-organisations responses. Sustainability 2015, 7, 6011–6032. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [Green Version]
  61. Diekel, F.; Mikosch, N.; Bach, V.; Finkbeiner, M. Life cycle based comparison of textile ecolabels. Sustainability 2021, 13, 1751. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  62. Wojnarowska, M.; Sołtysik, M.; Prusak, A. Impact of eco-labelling on the implementation of sustainable production and consumption. Environ. Impact Assess. Rev. 2021, 86, 106505. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  63. Singer, A.A.; van der Ven, H. Beyond market, firm, and state: Mapping the ethics of global value chains. Bus. Soc. Rev. 2019, 124, 325–343. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  64. Ranasinghe, L.; Jayasooriya, V. Ecolabelling in textile industry: A review. Resour. Environ. Sustain. 2021, 6, 100037. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  65. ISO 14020:2022. Environmental Statements and Programmes for Products—Principles and General Requirements. Available online: https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/#iso:std:iso:14020:ed-3:v1:en (accessed on 20 April 2023).
  66. Ibanez, L. Ecolabels: Are They Environmental-Friendly? In Encyclopedia of Law and Economics, 1st ed.; Marciano, A., Ramello, G., Eds.; Springer: New York, NY, USA, 2016; pp. 1–9. [Google Scholar]
  67. de Freitas Netto, S.V.; Sobral, M.F.F.; Ribeiro, A.R.B.; Soares, G.R.D.L. Concepts and forms of greenwashing: A systematic review. Environ. Sci. Eur. 2020, 32, 19. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [Green Version]
  68. Nemes, N.; Scanlan, S.J.; Smith, P.; Smith, T.; Aronczyk, M.; Hill, S.; Lewis, S.L.; Montgomery, A.W.; Tubiello, F.N.; Stabinsky, D. An integrated framework to assess greenwashing. Sustainability 2022, 14, 4431. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  69. Horne, R.E. Limits to labels: The role of eco-labels in the assessment of product sustainability and routes to sustainable consumption. Int. J. Consum. Stud. 2009, 33, 175–182. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  70. Riskos, K.; Dekoulou, P.; Mylonas, N.; Tsourvakas, G. Ecolabels and the attitude–behavior relationship towards green product purchase: A multiple mediation model. Sustainability 2021, 13, 6867. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  71. Grolleau, G.; Ibanez, L.; Mzoughi, N.; Teisl, M. Helping eco-labels to fulfil their promises. Clim. Policy 2016, 16, 792–802. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
  72. Yenipazarli, A. The economics of eco-labeling: Standards, costs and prices. Int. J. Prod. Econ. 2015, 170, 275–286. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
Figure 1. Classification of the most common ecofriendly fibers.
Figure 1. Classification of the most common ecofriendly fibers.
Sustainability 15 11589 g001
Figure 2. US Ecofiber market by product (left). Global Ecofiber market by application (right). Source: Grand View Research, Market Analysis Report 2021. Available online: https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/eco-fiber-market# (accessed on 10 April 2023)” [51].
Figure 2. US Ecofiber market by product (left). Global Ecofiber market by application (right). Source: Grand View Research, Market Analysis Report 2021. Available online: https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/eco-fiber-market# (accessed on 10 April 2023)” [51].
Sustainability 15 11589 g002
Table 1. The most common chemicals found in RSLs and their use in textile manufacturing.
Table 1. The most common chemicals found in RSLs and their use in textile manufacturing.
ChemicalsDetailsManufacturing Process
Heavy metals,
especially nickel
Natural allergen nickel has the potential to cause contact dermatitis and is thought to be carcinogenic. Metal components have a release point for nickel. Impurities in dyes or catalytic agents may contain heavy metals with various health risks. Heavy metals such as arsenic, lead, cadmium, mercury, nickel, copper, chromium, cobalt, and zinc are present in traces in certain dyes.Dyeing and printing: dyes containing traces of heavy metals
Azo DyesMost commonly used in textile and clothing manufacturing. They are most highly concentrated in black and brown colors and contain concentrations of p-Phenylenediamine (PPD), a chemical that can cause skin allergies and dermatitis.Dyeing and printing: azo dyes containing/releasing banned amines 1
Chlorinated PhenolsChlorinated phenols (for example, pentachlorophenol (PCP) and tetrachlorophenol (TeCP)) have been employed as wood preservatives, textile impregnation agents, tanning bactericides, and in the paper and pulp industries. They are extremely dangerous to both humans and the environment.Sizing—pentachlorophenol as a preservative
Brominated Flame Retardants (BFRs)These substances are likely to accumulate in biological tissues, remain in the environment and food chain, and pose a risk to animals. The usage of pentabromodiphenyl ether (pentaPBDE) and octabromodiphenyl ether (octaPBDE) has been outlawed by the European Parliament, while risk assessments for decabromodiphenyl ether (decaPBDB) are now being
conducted.
Production—BFRs are mixtures of man-made chemicals that are added to textiles to make them less flammable
FormaldehydeWith its strong odor, formaldehyde can be utilized as a cross-linking agent. It is employed as an anti-greasing and anti-shrinking agent, as well as a preservative. Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen that is also irritating to the eyes, nose, and other tissues.Dyeing and printing: formaldehyde-based auxiliaries
Finishing: formaldehyde-based finishes
Organotin CompoundsPlastic stabilizers, catalytic agents, industrial biocides, and antifouling paints are all examples of organotin compounds in use. They are pollutants that are especially detrimental to the aquatic environment. Even at low concentrations, organotins are extremely poisonous to marine and freshwater creatures.Production
Banned pesticides/biocides such as DDT, Dieldrin, Aldrin, etc.Because of their particularly hazardous nature, pesticides and biocides present major health issues.Cotton growing
Packing—wooden boxes treated with insecticides
Chlorinated Organic Dye CarriersThese compounds are prohibited in buyer goods because they can affect the neurological system and may be irritating to the skin and mucous membranes. Trichloro benzene, biphenyl phenol, orthophenyl phenol, and halogenated aromatic hydrocarbons can all be used as dye carriers.In the dyeing process of polyester or wool/polyester fibers, they are used as carriers
Chlorinated productsChlorine easily combines with natural organic matter brought into the water, resulting in the development of potentially hazardous chlorination byproducts (CBPs). The establishment of CBPs is of special relevance because some have been linked to the development of various clinical symptoms.Scouring: chlorinated products
Bleaching: sodium and calcium hypochlorite
Finishing: stain removers containing chlorinated
products
PhthalatePhthalates are a class of phthalic acid ester compounds that are utilized as plasticizers. Phthalate compounds are commonly used in the textile industry to create motifs, plastisol patterns, coated fabrics, buttons, and so on. These substances have the potential to cause endocrine (hormonal) and reproductive system disruption. In animal studies, phthalates can induce liver, kidney, lung, and testicular damage at high dosages.Production
1 Amines carcinogenic in nature or suspected and prohibited: (1) benzidine, (2) 4-chloro-o-toluidine, (3) 2-naphthyl-amine, (4) 4-amino-di-phenyl, (5) o-toluidine (3,3-di-methyl-benzidine), (6) o-di-anisidine (3,3-dimethoxy-benzidine), (7) p-chloro-aniline, (8) 3,3-di-chloro-benzidine, (9) o-amino-azo-toluene, (10) 2-amino-4-nitro-toluene, (11) 2,4-toluyl-en-di-amine (4-methyl-1,3 phenylene-di-amine), (12) 2,4-di-amino-anisole (4-methoxy-m-phenylene-di-amine), (13) 4,4-di-amino-di-phenyl-methane, (14) 3,3-di-methyl-4,4-di-amino-di-phenyl-methane, (15) p-kresidine (2-methoxy-5-methyl-aniline), (16) 4,4-methylene–bis-(2-chloro-aniline), (17) 4,4-oxy-di-aniline, (18) 2,4,5-tri-methyl-aniline, (19) 4,4-thio-di-aniline, (20) p-amino-azo-benzene, (21) 2-methoxy-aniline.
Table 2. The most used certifications, standards, and ecolabels in the textile industry around the world. Logos are not shown due to copyrights.
Table 2. The most used certifications, standards, and ecolabels in the textile industry around the world. Logos are not shown due to copyrights.
Ecolabel NameDetails
ABNT EcolabelLife cycle-based ecolabeling is a voluntary way of certifying and labeling products and services for environmental performance in Brazil.
Animal Welfare Approved (AWA)Animals must be able to behave normally and be in a condition of physical and mental wellbeing in order to meet the standard for farm animal care.
B CorporationB Corporations are a brand-new form of business that employs the power of the market to address social and environmental issues.
BMP Certified CottonBMP is the cotton industry’s blueprint for cultivating cotton in harmony with the natural world in Australia.
Better Cotton Initiative (BCI)The BCI advocates a thorough set of production guidelines and standards for cultivating cotton in a more socially, ecologically, and commercially sustainable way.
Blue AngelThe German government established the Blue Angel award, which is presented to products that are more ecologically friendly than others serving the same purpose.
Bluesign® standardWith the help of the Bluesign® standard, the whole textile production chain can work together to lessen the environmental impact of a sustainably run textile business.
CRI Green LabelThe Green Label was created by the Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) in 1992 to test carpets, cushions, and adhesives to help specifiers find products with extremely low VOC emissions.
Carbon Reduction LabelA public statement that the carbon footprint of a good or service has been calculated and validated and that the owner has agreed to lessen it over the following two years.
CarbonCareThe MRO (Measuring, Reducing, and Offsetting) method of addressing climate change is encouraged and recognized by the CarbonCare® program.
CarbonFree® CertifiedThe CarbonFree® Product Certification badge serves to highlight businesses reducing their carbon footprints and raise consumer awareness of product emissions.
Certified Humane Raised and Handleddesigned to verify the ethical treatment of animals used to produce dairy, lamb, poultry, and beef products.
Certified Wildlife Friendly®If production has a good effect on the regional economy, people or communities that live beside animals engage in the production, etc., products may be certified by WFEN.
China Environmental LabellingSEPA launched the China Environmental Label in 1993. It offers environmental requirements for things like building materials, clothing, automobiles, cosmetics, and electronics.
ClimatopThe goal of Climatop is to identify the goods and services that are most friendly to the environment.
Clear to WearWith the tightest product hygiene and safety regulations, the Inditex group and the University of Santiago de Compostela (Spain) established a hygiene and safety standard.
Compostability Mark of European BioplasticsAllows for the identification of compostable items via a distinctive mark and the channeling of such products for the recovery of their component elements in specially devised methods.
Coop Naturaline: SwitzerlandFor cotton that has been grown under regulated biological conditions in accordance with EU or BIO Suisse criteria used to make textiles and natural cosmetics.
Cradle-to-Cradle Certified (CM) Products Using the Cradle-to-Cradle-Certified (CM) Products Program, a business may show its commitment to eco-intelligent design.
Danish Indoor Climate LabelA tool for developing and choosing goods that are friendly to indoor air quality and for better understanding how different items and materials affect the indoor air quality of buildings.
Degree of Green®By evaluating items and providing a clear explanation of those ratings, the Degree of Green® grading program seeks to assist customers.
Demeter Biodynamic®A certification stating the application of biodynamic agricultural methods.
EcocertAn organization for sustainable development certification. It is an organization for inspection and certification of agronomists founded in France for agriculture that is ecologically friendly.
Eco-INSTITUT-LabelCustomers who purchase construction materials and textiles from Eco-Institut receive a trustworthy and important label free of any health risks.
ECOLOGOBased on standards with several attributes and the life cycle. Before being given the mark, products that have been certified to an ECOLOGO standard must fulfill or surpass each of the specified requirements.
EU EcolabelThe EU created the optional EU Ecolabel or EU Flower program in 1992.
EarthsureThe objective is to supply purchasers (companies and individuals) with comprehensive environmental data so that the market may steer the economy in the direction of general environmental improvement.
Eco-LeafLife cycle analysis-based environmental product declaration.
Eco Mark Africa (EMA)An introductory prize that is ideal for Africa.
EcoMark JapanThrough prudent product selection, the Eco Mark program works to encourage environmentally sustainable (or “ecological”) lives.
Ecomark IndiaA government-run certification scheme for ecologically friendly consumer goods.
EcoproofThe label is for textiles, especially textiles made from cotton.
Eco SafeLabel for use by businesses issued by the ICQ group (Commitment for Safety and Quality—Impegno per la Sicurezza e la Qualità established in Italy), mostly used by the Benetton group.
Ekologicky setrny vyrobek The official registered label of the Czech ecolabeling scheme is “Ekologicky setrny vyrobek” (Environmentally Friendly Product).
Environmental Choice New ZealandA voluntary environmental labeling program with many parameters that adhere to global norms and guidelines.
Environmental
Product Declaration
An Environmental Product Declaration’s (EPD) main objective is to offer pertinent, verified, and comparable data to satisfy varied market and consumer objectives.
Etichetta ambientale (AssoSCAI)The multi-label was created by AssoSCAI to help Italian businesses properly categorize environmental items in accordance with ISO 14021.
Fair Labor Practices and Community BenefitsScientific Certification Systems (SCS) established social responsibility certification to go along with organic fair labor practices and community benefits certification.
FairWertung (German Fair Recycling Federation)Network of charitable organizations and social enterprises that adhere to the standards set out by FairWertung for the ethical collection and sale of used clothing.
FairtradeA system of ethical commerce that prioritizes the needs of people and gives farmers and workers in developing nations a better bargain as well as the chance to enhance their lives and invest in the future.
GREENGUARDAids in the development of interior items and materials with minimal chemical emissions into indoor air and aids purchasers in identifying such products.
GUTThroughout the whole life cycle of a textile floor covering (from manufacture through installation, usage phase, and recycling), it is the goal to enhance all environmental and consumer protection elements.
Global Fashion Agenda (GFA)A leadership forum for industry collaboration on sustainability has a wide number of partners, including some of the biggest textile and fashion firms in the world.
Global GreenTag
Certified
Global Green Tag® is a third party, green product rating and certification system underpinned by scientific and Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) processes.
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)Global textile processing standard for organic fibers, including independent certification of the complete textile supply chain, as well as ecological and social standards.
Global Recycle StandardThe Global Recycled Standard is designed for businesses that produce and/or market goods that use recycled material.
Good Environmental Choice “Bra Miljöval”“Good Environmental Choice” or “Good Green Buy” in English. This category focuses on somewhat popular goods and services that have a significant environmental impact.
Good Environmental Choice Australia (GECA)It is the sole Australian member of the Global Ecolabeling Network (GEN) and manages Australia’s only independent, not-for-profit, multi-sector ecolabeling program.
Good Shopping Guide Ethical AwardEnables businesses and brands to show an environmental, animal, and human health score that has been independently validated.
GoodWeaveGoodWeave works to provide children in South Asia with educational opportunities and to put a stop to child labor in the carpet business.
Green Crane: UkraineA voluntary environmental labeling program that uses several requirements and adheres to international standards and tenets is called Green Crane.
Green MarkTo promote the concept of recycling, pollution reduction, and resource conservation.
Green Mark TaiwanCertification label issued for the production of textile materials in Taiwan.
Green Products
Standard
Green Products Standard helps consumers better understand the growing number of green and eco-friendly products in the marketplace.
Green ShapeGreen Shape is VAUDE’s label for products that feature special ecological manufacturing.
Green TickIndependent sustainability certification of goods, services, and businesses based on an evaluation of performance in accordance with the Green Tick Sustainability Standards across the course of their lifecycles.
GreenCircleGreenCircle Certified, LLC offers third-party certification of environmentally friendly features of products and production processes.
GreenPlaJapan’s goal is to develop the technology of biodegradable plastics (GreenPla) and to promote its widespread commercial application.
Healthy Child, Healthy WorldPromotes goods and services that are geared toward non-toxic lifestyle changes and environmental wellness for kids and families.
Hong Kong Green Label (HKGLS)The Green Council (GC) introduced the HKGLS, an independent, non-profit certification program for ecologically friendly goods, in December 2000.
IMO CertifiedA worldwide organization for product inspection, certification, and quality control of environmentally friendly goods is the Institute for Market ecology (IMO).
Korean Ecolabel The Korea Eco-Products Institute carries out various operations related to improvement in eco-products and product environmental friendliness.
Label STEPAwarded to handmade carpet retailers who adhere to fair trade principles, such as paying fair pricing and preventing the exploitation of children in the labor force.
Max HavelaarA quality mark is given by the Max Havelaar Foundation to goods that were manufactured in accordance with fair trade standards.
Migros ECOA textile’s promise that no material likely to irritate or aggravate skin, cause allergies, or harm the environment must be labeled on the product.
Milieukeur: the Dutch environmental quality labelThe Dutch environmental quality badge for goods and services is called Milieukeur. There are Milieukeur criteria for a number of goods and services, including consumer goods and services.
NATURTEXTIL Best“Naturtextil BEST” is a holistic standard. It values environmental and social criteria along the whole textile production chain.
NSF Sustainability Certified ProductThe NSF Sustainability Certified mark is available to products that meet conformity assessment to an NSF/ANSI or other national or international sustainable product standards.
NSF/ANSI 140 Sustainability Assessment for Carpet.
NSF/ANSI 336: Sustainability Assessment for Commercial Furnishings Fabric.
Naturland e.V.Naturland—Association for organic agriculture is a private certification body and an organic farmers association.
Nike Considered DesignA sustainable footwear brand from Nike Inc. The use of materials that are mostly found within 200 miles (320 km) of the Nike facility decreases the energy required for production.
Nordic Ecolabel or “Swan”Demonstrates that a product is a good environmental choice. The “Swan” symbol, as it is known in Nordic countries, is available for 65 product groups.
ÖkoControlAfter rigorous testing conducted by independent and certified test facilities, the Label is applied to furniture, beds, or mattresses made of natural, sustainable materials.
Ø-label: NorwayAims to protect Norway’s future organic production. Debio’s inspection program, which covers all operations from farm to table, encompasses all suppliers of organic goods in Norway.
Organic Content Standard (OCS)An optional chain of custody requirement that provides companies with a way to have a third party confirm that a completed product includes the right amount of an organically produced ingredient. To guarantee the authenticity and integrity of the organic material input, each organization in the supply chain must take the necessary steps.
Oeko-Tex Standard 100A global testing and certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate products, and finished goods at all stages of manufacturing.
Oregon TilthOrganic certification confirms compliance with the USDA National Organic Program requirements and verifies that the agreed-upon norms of organic agriculture systems are being followed.
Organic Farmers and Growers CertificationThe UK Department for Environment, Food, and Rural Affairs (Defra) standards for organic production and processing are met by products bearing the Organic Farmers and Growers mark.
Processed Chlorine FreeProcessed Chlorine-Free (PCF) audits assess the environmental effect of a manufacturing process and need a chain of custody for all raw ingredients.
SCS Sustainable ChoiceCarpet goods must fulfill quantifiable environmental performance and social responsibility standards in order to receive the Sustainable Choice certification.
SEE What You Are Buying IntoA labeling program called SEE What You Are Buying Into is for companies that are upfront and truthful about their Social, Environmental, and Ethical (SEE) policies and practices.
SMaRT Consensus Sustainable Product StandardsSustainable products standard and label for building products, fabric, apparel, textile, and flooring, covering 80% of the world’s products with environmental, social, and economic criteria.
Singapore Green Label Scheme (SGLS)Aims to help the public identify environment-friendly products that meet certain ecostandards in Singapore.
Skal Eko SymbolA certification program for agricultural goods made using organic production techniques.
Soil Association Organic StandardOrganic certification is available to UK-based farmers, growers, food processors and packers, retailers, caterers, textile manufacturers, and importers of health and beauty products.
Sourcemap (Sourcemap.com)Making decisions that are sustainable by using a platform for supply chain transparency that allows producers to communicate in-depth details about their operations to customers and buyers.
Sustainable Apparel
Coalition (SAC)
The creation of the Higg Index, which is used by more than 10,000 enterprises globally to evaluate numerous characteristics to determine how sustainable they are.
SustentaXAn ecolabel from Brazil called SustentaX helps customers find environmentally friendly goods and services based on the evaluation of both human safety and product quality.
TerraCycleCarries out nationwide garbage collecting initiatives in ten nations, where non-recyclable post-consumer waste (among many other categories) is gathered and transformed into fresh goods and resources.
Texas Certified Organically ProducedUnder the Organic Certification Program, TDA inspects and certifies organic farms as well as processors, distributors, and retailers of organic food and fiber.
Thai Green LabelA certification is given to certain items that, compared to other products performing the same function, have the least negative environmental effect.
Timberland Green IndexThe “Green Index” by Timberland rates the environmental effect of their offerings. Consumers are given access to information on the environmental impact Timberland has.
Totally Chlorine FreeThe Totally Chlorine Free standard uses a Sustainability Index to assess environmental effects.
Tunisia EcolabelIn 1997, a national ecolabel was established by order. It was established to make it easier for Tunisian goods and services to reach European and global markets.
USDA Certified BioBasedA label that is managed and operated by the federal government and is based on the BioPreferred program, which was established by the US Farm Bill in 2002 to promote the use of biobased goods.
ZqueNatural performance wool is combined with a program of accreditation that protects the sustainability of the environment, the social and economic system, the welfare of animals, and the capacity to track products.
Disclaimer/Publisher’s Note: The statements, opinions and data contained in all publications are solely those of the individual author(s) and contributor(s) and not of MDPI and/or the editor(s). MDPI and/or the editor(s) disclaim responsibility for any injury to people or property resulting from any ideas, methods, instructions or products referred to in the content.

Share and Cite

MDPI and ACS Style

Plakantonaki, S.; Kiskira, K.; Zacharopoulos, N.; Chronis, I.; Coelho, F.; Togiani, A.; Kalkanis, K.; Priniotakis, G. A Review of Sustainability Standards and Ecolabeling in the Textile Industry. Sustainability 2023, 15, 11589. https://doi.org/10.3390/su151511589

AMA Style

Plakantonaki S, Kiskira K, Zacharopoulos N, Chronis I, Coelho F, Togiani A, Kalkanis K, Priniotakis G. A Review of Sustainability Standards and Ecolabeling in the Textile Industry. Sustainability. 2023; 15(15):11589. https://doi.org/10.3390/su151511589

Chicago/Turabian Style

Plakantonaki, Sofia, Kyriaki Kiskira, Nikolaos Zacharopoulos, Ioannis Chronis, Fernando Coelho, Amir Togiani, Konstantinos Kalkanis, and Georgios Priniotakis. 2023. "A Review of Sustainability Standards and Ecolabeling in the Textile Industry" Sustainability 15, no. 15: 11589. https://doi.org/10.3390/su151511589

APA Style

Plakantonaki, S., Kiskira, K., Zacharopoulos, N., Chronis, I., Coelho, F., Togiani, A., Kalkanis, K., & Priniotakis, G. (2023). A Review of Sustainability Standards and Ecolabeling in the Textile Industry. Sustainability, 15(15), 11589. https://doi.org/10.3390/su151511589

Note that from the first issue of 2016, this journal uses article numbers instead of page numbers. See further details here.

Article Metrics

Back to TopTop