Search Results (5)

The identification and quantitative determination of wool and fine animal fibers are of great interest in the textile field because of the significant price differences between them and common impurities in raw and processed textiles. Since animal fibers have remarkable similarities in their chemical and physical characteristics, specific identification methods have been studied and proposed following advances in analytical technologies. The identification methods of wool and fine animal fibers are reviewed in this paper, and the results of relevant studies are listed and summarized, starting from classical microscopy methods, which are still used today not only in small to medium enterprises but also in large industries, research studies and quality control laboratories. Particular attention has been paid to image analysis, Nir spectroscopy and proteomics, which constitute the most promising technologies of quality control in the manufacturing and trading of luxury textiles and can find application in forensic science and archeology. Full article

In 1972, the Plain Unlined Silk Gauze Gown unearthed from the Mawangdui Han Dynasty tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province, China, received attention from various fields such as archeology, cultural relics conservation, textile and costume because of its light texture and exquisite craftsmanship. However, due to it being unearthed decades ago and imperfect preservation measures being used, it has been increasingly damaged by the influence of the external environment. Therefore, there is an urgent need to carry out archeology, restoration and protection of the Plain Unlined Silk Gauze Gown. In this paper, the Plain Unlined Silk Gauze Gown is taken as the research object, and the costume pattern is obtained through 3D interactive pattern-making technology. Then virtual simulation technology is used to digitally restore the Plain Unlined Silk Gauze Gown in combination with the fabric, color and pattern of the costume. Finally, the Analytic Hierarchy Process (AHP) and the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method are introduced to evaluate the virtual simulation effect of the costume. The results show that the virtual simulation effect of the Plain Unlined Silk Gauze Gown is very good. From the results of the costume restoration, the AHP captures the uncertainty in the process of costume virtual simulation evaluation, quantifies the judgments with weights, reduces the subjectivity of the evaluation process, and provides a scientific and effective method for evaluating the virtual simulation effect of ancient costumes. Full article

Vesuvius eruption that destroyed Pompeii in AD 79 represents one of the most important events in history. The cataclysm left behind an abundance of archeological evidence representing a fundamental source of the knowledge we have about ancient Roman material culture and technology. A great number of textiles have been preserved, rarely maintaining traces of their original color, since they are mainly in the mineralized and carbonized state. However, one outstanding textile sample displays a brilliant purple color and traces of gold strips. Since the purple was one of the most exclusive dyes in antiquity, its presence in an important commercial site like Pompeii induces us to deepen the knowledge of such artifacts and provide further information on their history. For this reason, the characterization of the purple color was the main scope of this research, and to deepen the knowledge of such artifacts, the SERS (Surface Enhanced Raman Scattering) in solution approach was applied. Then, these data were enriched by HPLC-HRMS analyses, which confirmed SERS-based hypotheses and also allowed to hypothesize the species of the origin mollusk. In this context, a step-by-step integrated approach resulted fundamental to maximize the information content and to provide new data on textile manufacturing and trade in antiquity. Full article

Pseudomonas aeruginosa is an opportunistic pathogen associated with a broad spectrum of infections in humans. However, the pathogenicity of environmental P. aeruginosa strains, especially isolates from museums and conservation laboratories, is not widely recognized. In this study, the virulence attributes of P. aeruginosa isolated from pre-Columbian textiles were compared to those of a clinical strain. Both genetically identified environmental strains (KP842564 and KP842565) exhibited a high ability to form biofilms on abiotic surfaces and high hemolytic activity. In addition, strain KP842564 was a moderate pyocyanin producer and showed proteolytic properties toward bovine serum albumin, fibrinogen, mucin, and casein. In contrast to the clinical isolate, the environmental strains were susceptible to all the tested antimicrobial agents. The strains also showed high bioadhesion and colonization capacity on archeological textile samples, in which wool fibers were the only source of nutrients, as confirmed by scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX) analysis. This study highlights the need to identify microorganisms which inhabit historic objects, in order to avoid exposure to occupational hazards. Although the strain KP842565 exhibited only some of the examined virulence-related features, given that the production of pyocyanin and hemolysins as well as the formation of biofilm are important virulence factors of P. aeruginosa, the results indicate that these strains may present a potential health risk for humans. Full article

We propose a new method for dating ancient linen threads by inspecting their structural degradation by means of wide-angle X-ray scattering. X-ray dating of a textile sample can be performed nondestructively and on a submillimeter area, e.g., 0.2 × 0.5 mm², exploiting new table-top X-ray micro-sources. A theoretical formula is derived for dating linen samples directly from wide-angle X-ray scattering measurements. Our preliminary results show that X-ray dating results are in agreement with other dating sources, such as the radiocarbon method and historical records, if some conditions are satisfied. Indeed, this new dating method can be applied only to threads not older than about thirty centuries because of the saturation of the structural degradation with age. Moreover, the method can be applied only on textiles in which cellulose degradation is mainly due by natural aging arising from thermal, hydrolytic, photolytic, photochemical, and oxidative processes. Analyses can be repeated several times on the same sample, which remains unaltered for other complementary characterization procedures. The proposed X-ray dating of some ancient linen fabrics opens the way to explore limits and potentialities of this new approach and to further develop a new dating method, alternative to the existing ones for specific applications in archeological studies. Full article