Search Results (6)

Understanding the evolution of the sandbar–trough system under regular wave conditions is essential for revealing the dynamic responses of coastal morphology in non-extreme environments and provides a scientific basis for long-term beach stability assessments and coastal erosion management. This study conducted a three-day field observation on Ten-Mile Silver Beach, Hailing Island, China, to investigate the coupling relationships between hydrodynamic factors and bed elevation changes during the morphological evolution of the sandbar–trough system. The results indicate that gravity wave (>0.04 Hz) energy is a key driver of bed elevation changes. During the erosion phase, gravity wave energy increases, and the peak wave energy frequency shifts toward lower frequencies, accompanied by a contraction of low-frequency energy and an expansion of high-frequency energy. In contrast, the accretion phase exhibits the opposite pattern. As the sandbar–trough system developed, the explanatory power of hydrodynamic factors on bed elevation decreased by 41% in the trough region and increased by 3.7% in the sandbar region, indicating a spatially differentiated pattern characterized by weakened forcing in the trough and enhanced response over the sandbar. During the geomorphic adjustment process, the trough area exhibited increased sensitivity, with gravity wave energy, near-infragravity wave (0.01–0.04 Hz) energy, far-infragravity wave (0.004–0.01 Hz) energy, mean wave height, and significant wave steepness reversing their influence directions on bed elevation. In contrast, the sandbar area maintained a more stable hydrodynamic control mechanism, with only the influence pattern of significant wave steepness undergoing a shift. This study enhances the understanding of geomorphology–hydrodynamics coupling within nearshore sandbar–trough systems and provides theoretical insights and technical support for monitoring and evaluating coastal erosion and accretion processes under normal wave conditions. Full article

Port downtime leads to economic losses and reductions in safety levels. This problem is generally assessed in terms of uni-variable thresholds, despite its multidimensional nature. The aim of the present study is to develop a downtime probability forecasting tool, based on real problems at the Outer Port of Punta Langosteira (Spain), and including infragravity wave prediction. The combination of measurements from three pressure sensors and a tide gauge, together with machine-learning techniques, made it possible to generate long wave prognostication at different frequencies. A fitting correlation of 0.95 and 0.9 and a root mean squared error (RMSE) of 0.022 m and 0.012 m were achieved for gravity and infragravity waves, respectively. A wave hindcast in the berthing areas, met-ocean forecast data, and information on 15 real operational problems between 2017 and 2022, were all used to build a classification model for downtime probability estimation. The proposed use of this tool addresses the problems that arise when two consecutive sea states have thresholds above 3.97%. This is the limit for guaranteeing the safety of port operations and has a cost of just 0.6 unnecessary interruptions of operations per year. The methodology is easily exportable to other facilities for an adequate assessment of downtime risks. Full article

The non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH was used to investigate the hydrodynamic processes at a reef fringed pocket beach in southwestern Australia (Gnarabup Beach). Gnarabup Beach is a ~1.5 km long beach with highly variable bathymetry that is bounded by rocky headlands. The site is also exposed to large waves from the Southern Ocean. The model performance was evaluated using observations collected during a field program measuring waves, currents and water levels between June and July 2017. Modeled sea-swell wave heights (periods 5–25 s), infragravity wave heights (periods 25–600 s), and wave-induced setup exhibited moderate to good agreement with the observations throughout the model domain. The mean currents, which were highly-spatially variable across the study site, were less accurately predicted at most sites. Model agreement with the observations tended to be the worst in the areas with the most uncertain bathymetry (i.e., areas where high resolution survey data was not available). The nearshore sea-swell wave heights, infragravity wave heights and setup were strongly modulated by the offshore waves. The headlands and offshore reefs also had a strong impact on the hydrodynamics within the lagoon (bordered by the reefs) by dissipating much of the offshore sea-swell wave energy and modifying the pattern of the nearshore flows (magnitude and direction). Wave breaking on the reef platforms drove strong onshore directed mean currents over the reefs, resulting in off-shore flow through channels between the reefs and headlands where water exchanges from the lagoon to ocean. Our results demonstrate that the SWASH model is able to produce realistic predictions of the hydrodynamic processes within bathymetrically-complex nearshore systems. Full article

Different conceptual models for forced infragravity (long) waves exist in the literature, which suggest different models for the behavior of shoaling forced waves and the possible radiation of free long waves in that process. These are discussed in terms of existing literature. A simple numerical model is built to evaluate the wave shape in space and time during shoaling of forced waves with concurrent radiation of free long waves to ensure mass continuity. The same qualitative results were found when performing simulations with the COULWAVE model using the radiation stress term in the momentum equation to force the generation and propagation of bound waves. Both model results indicate a strong frequency dependence in the shoaling rate and on the lag of the total long wave with respect to the forcing, consistent with observations in the literature and more complex evolution models. In this approach, a lag of the long wave is only observed in the time domain, not in the space domain. In addition the COULWAVE is used to investigate dissipation rates of incident free and forced long waves inside the surf zone. The results also show a strong frequency dependence, as previously suggested in the literature, which can contribute to the total rate of decay of the incident forced wave after short wave breaking. Full article

This paper reviews the dynamics of infragravity (long-period) waves over reef systems and the consequences of these waves for operations in ports located behind reefs with particular attention to Western Australia. Swells which originate in the Southern Ocean generate long (infragravity) waves, which propagate to the coast. On the reef edge, the swell waves are largely dissipated, transferring energy to turbulence and heat but also in that process generating long wave energy. The remaining swell waves are dominated by the infragravity waves and propagate towards the mainland and into port basins where they cause moored ship motions with consequences for the operational downtime of the port’s operations. When contemplating solutions to mitigate the impact of the long wave problems, these may be addressed from two sides: from the load side (waves) and the strength side (mooring). The former will be discussed in this paper. Full article

The present study shows a methodology to carry out a comprehensive study of port agitation and resonance analysis in Geraldton Harbor (Western Australia). The methodology described and applied here extends the short and long wave hindcast outside the harbor and towards the main basin. To perform such an analysis, and as the first stage of the methodology, it is necessary to determine, in detail, both the long and short wave characteristics, through a comprehensive methodology to obtain and to hindcast the full spectral data (short waves + long waves, for frequencies between 0.005 and 1 Hz). Twelve-year spectral hindcast wave data, at a location before the reef, have been modified analytically to include the energy input associated with infragravity waves. A decomposition technique based on the energy balance of the radiation stress of short waves is followed. Predictions for long wave heights and periods at different harbor locations are predicted and validated with data recorded during 2004 to 2009. This new database will ensure an accurate and reliable assessment of long wave hourly data (height, period and currents) in any area within the main basin of the Port of Geraldton, for its present geometry. With this information, two main task will be completed: (1) undertake a forensic diagnosis of the present response of the harbor, identifying those forcing characteristics related to inoperability events; and (2) propose any layout solutions to minimize, change, dissipate/fade/vanish or positively modify the effects of long waves in the harbor, proposing different harbor geometry modifications. The goal is to identify all possible combinations of solutions that would minimize the current inoperability in the harbor. Different pre-designs are assessed in this preliminary study in order to exemplify the potential of the methodology. Full article