1. Introduction
Phoenix (Fenghuang) Dancong tea (
Camellia sinensis (L.) O. Kuntze), a celebrated oolong variety from Chaozhou, Guangdong Province, China, is renowned for its complex and persistent floral–fruity aroma. Chemical profiling has identified over 80 volatile compounds, primarily monoterpenes (linalool, geraniol, nerol), esters (linalyl acetate, geranyl acetate), and aromatic aldehydes, which, together, define its distinctive sensory character and bioactive potential. Recent analyses report that these volatiles contribute significantly to antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activities, supporting applications in cosmetics, functional foods, and smart textiles [
1,
2,
3,
4].
Supercritical CO2 extraction was selected because it provides an environmentally benign, low-temperature, and solvent-free approach that preserves the integrity of delicate aroma compounds. In contrast to steam distillation or Clevenger hydrodistillation, which operate at 100–120 °C and often induce hydrolysis, oxidation, or polymerization of key volatiles such as linalool and geraniol, the SC-CO2 process runs efficiently at 40–55 °C and 20–30 MPa, maintaining high extract purity without leaving residual solvents. CO2 is non-toxic, non-flammable, recyclable, and approved by the U.S. FDA as GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe), making it ideal for food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic applications. Moreover, its tunable density and diffusivity under supercritical conditions allow selective solubilization of target compounds, enabling both higher yield and improved aroma fidelity compared with traditional extraction methods. Hence, SC-CO2 extraction aligns with green chemistry principles while meeting industrial requirements for safety, sustainability, and high sensory quality.
Traditional extraction methods—such as steam distillation, hydrodistillation (Clevenger apparatus), and solvent extraction—are widely used for isolating tea essential oils. However, these processes involve high thermal loads (≥100 °C) or residual organic solvents that cause thermal degradation, hydrolysis of glycosides, and loss of low-boiling volatiles [
5,
6,
7,
8,
9,
10,
11]. Consequently, they compromise aroma fidelity, reduce bioactivity, and restrict applications where green, residue-free extracts are required, such as food-grade flavorings and aromatic coatings on wearable fabrics.
Therefore, the present study employs supercritical CO2 as a clean and controllable extraction medium to ensure the recovery of thermolabile volatiles while minimizing environmental and product safety concerns.
Supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO2) extraction has emerged as a sustainable and efficient technology for recovering high-value essential oils from delicate plant matrices. When CO2 exceeds its critical point (31.1 °C and 7.38 MPa), it attains liquid-like solvating power and gas-like diffusivity, enabling the selective dissolution of volatile compounds while preserving thermolabile constituents. This method offers several advantages over conventional distillation:
Low-temperature operation (35–55 °C) minimizes oxidation and hydrolysis of sensitive monoterpenes.
No solvent residues, as CO2 reverts to gas during depressurization, leaving a pure extract.
Tunable selectivity, as solvating strength depends on pressure and temperature.
Shorter extraction times and higher yields of aroma-rich fractions.
Previous studies demonstrated the superiority of SC-CO
2 in tea matrices: Icen and Guru (2009) [
12] extracted caffeine and polyphenols at 25 MPa, achieving > 95% purity with reduced degradation. Zhang et al. (2020) [
13] reported that SC-CO
2-extracted tea polyphenols retained 92% antioxidant activity relative to fresh leaves. For Phoenix Dancong tea, the same approach promises high aroma integrity and greener processing suitable for cosmetic and textile-grade essential oils.
Extraction efficiency in SC-CO
2 systems depends nonlinearly on pressure, temperature, flow rate, and extraction time. Empirical optimization through single-variable trials is inefficient and may overlook synergistic effects. Response Surface Methodology (RSM), particularly the Box–Behnken Design (BBD), provides a statistically robust framework to model interactive parameters, quantify curvature effects, and locate the global optimum with fewer experiments. RSM has been widely applied to optimize bioactive compound recovery in tea and herbal extracts, achieving R
2 values above 0.90 in predictive models Jirarattanarangsri & Muangrat [
14]. Thus, integrating RSM ensures precision in identifying the most productive and energy-efficient extraction window for Phoenix Dancong essential oil.
The integration of botanical essential oils into fabrics represents a growing frontier in functional textile design. “Aromatic textiles” are engineered to deliver controlled fragrance release, antimicrobial protection, and stress-reducing sensory effects during wear or storage. Among various finishing techniques—microencapsulation, sol–gel embedding, and spraying—blade-coating offers superior film uniformity, mechanical durability, and scalability. In this study, a waterborne polyurethane (WPU) matrix and polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) additive were used to embed Phoenix Dancong tea oil onto cotton, nylon, polyester, and wool fabrics, enabling comparative analysis of aroma retention over eight weeks [
12,
15,
16,
17,
18,
19].
Aromatic textiles represent a class of functional fabrics engineered to release pleasant natural fragrances or bioactive volatile compounds during wear, storage, or contact with air. They combine textile science, surface chemistry, and sensory technology to enhance user comfort, mood, and antimicrobial protection. Among several finishing techniques—such as microencapsulation, padding, or sol–gel embedding—blade-coating offers high uniformity, controllable film thickness, and industrial scalability. In this process, an emulsion containing the essential oil and a polymeric binder is spread over the fabric at a fixed blade gap, forming a thin, adherent layer after drying [
20,
21,
22,
23,
24,
25]. This technique ensures reproducible fragrance loading and gradual release, making it ideal for evaluating aroma retention on different fibers such as cotton, nylon, polyester, and wool.
This study aims to:
- (1)
Optimize the supercritical CO2 extraction parameters (pressure, temperature, flow rate, and time) for Phoenix Dancong tea essential oil using single-factor experiments followed by RSM–BBD modeling.
- (2)
Characterize the extracted oil composition and purity through GC–MS analysis, verifying the preservation of key monoterpenes and esters.
- (3)
Evaluate the fragrance retention and sensory persistence of coated fabrics through standardized olfactory scoring (GB/T 14454) and correlate findings with fiber structure.
- (4)
Assess the industrial scalability, cost–energy trade-offs, and sustainability prospects of the optimized SC-CO2 process for green aromatic textile manufacturing.
In this study, we conducted a systematic optimization of the extraction parameters (pressure, temperature, CO2 flow rate, and time) using single-factor and RSM methods. The extracted oil was then blade-coated to various textile fibers (cotton, nylon, polyester, wool) to assess its fragrance-retention performance. Its extraction process and textile applications can be optimized with the help of this study, which offers both a scientific foundation and a practical reference.
2. Materials and Methods
2.1. Materials and Equipments
The germplasm resources of the tea plants were characterized in accordance with the Descriptors and Data Standard for Tea Germplasm Resources (NY/T 2943-2016; Ministry of Agriculture of the People’s Republic of China: Beijing, China, 2016).
Carbon dioxide (CO2, purity ≥ 99.9%) for supercritical extraction was supplied by Shanghai Silong Gas Supply Co., Ltd. (Shanghai, China). The extraction was carried out using a supercritical fluid extraction system (Model: SFE220-50-06), manufactured by Nantong Ruizhi Supercritical Technology Development Co., Ltd. (Nantong, China).
An analytical balance (Model: XS205, Mettler Toledo, precision: 0.01 mg) was purchased from Changzhou Wantai Balance Instrument Co., Ltd. (Changzhou, China). A high-shear homogenizer (Model: FSH-2A, FLUKO) was provided by Shanghai Fluko Technology Development Co., Ltd. (Shanghai, China).
Four types of textile fabrics were selected for essential oil application, as follows:
Cotton fabric: 100% cotton, plain weave, model SHMM, weight 350 g/m2, obtained from Shaoxing Yingxin Textile Co., Ltd. (Shaoxing, China);
Polyester fabric: 100% polyester, model PKFMTX, weight 380 g/m2, obtained from Shaoxing Yingxin Textile Co., Ltd. (Shaoxing, China);
Wool fabric: 100% wool, weight 430 g/m2, provided by Nanxun Zihao Textile Co., Ltd. (Huzhou, China);
Nylon fabric: 100% polyamide, model F10040D, weight 85 g/m2, supplied by Shaoxing Lvtian Textile Co., Ltd. (Shaoxing, China).
Waterborne polyurethane (WPU), used as the primary film-forming agent for essential oil coating, was supplied by Dongguan Kesixin Adhesive Co., Ltd. (Dongguan, Guangdong, China). To enhance aroma retention and prolong fragrance release, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) was incorporated, which was bought from Hubei Candis Chemical Co., Ltd. (Wuhan, Hubei, China).
2.2. Extraction Processes of Phoenix Dancong Tea Essential Oil
The dried Dancong tea leaves were crushed and filtered using the 40–60 mesh stainless steels screens, which are equivalent to the size of particles with estimated diameter of 250–420 µm. Mesh number refers to the number of holes per linear inch, and the sieving was performed to ensure that only particles within this area were extracted.
A total of 100 g of pulverized Phoenix Dancong tea leaves was weighed and loaded into a 1 L stainless-steel extraction vessel. Carbon dioxide (CO2), sourced from a high-pressure gas cylinder, was first passed through a purification unit and subsequently cooled to −5 °C in a liquefaction chamber.
Once the extraction vessel and the separation vessels reached their respective set temperatures, their heating systems were activated. Upon thermal stabilization, the high-pressure plunger pump was switched on to deliver CO2 into the system. A fixed number for the CO2 flow rate was used to initiate the extraction process.
The supercritical fluid, containing dissolved extractables, was depressurized through a throttle valve before entering the separation vessels, where the CO
2 returned to its gaseous state. The extracted tea essential oil precipitated out in the separation chambers and was collected for subsequent analysis:
where
is tea essential oil extraction rate (%);
is tea essential oil mass (g);
is tea mass (g).
As summarized in
Table 1, the supercritical CO
2 system provides a low-temperature, residue-free, and selective extraction environment, whereas Clevenger hydrodistillation relies on prolonged high-temperature exposure that can alter or degrade volatile components. Therefore, SC-CO
2 was chosen as the primary extraction method for this study.
2.3. Single-Factor Experimental Test
To evaluate the individual effects of key process variables on the extraction yield of Phoenix Dancong tea essential oil, single-factor experiments were performed using analysis of variance (ANOVA) method. Based on preliminary experiments and relevant literature [
14,
26], four primary parameters: extraction pressure, extraction temperature, CO
2 flow rate, and extraction time were selected. Each parameter was investigated at five different levels, while the remaining conditions were held constant. The detailed tested ranges were as follows:
Extraction pressure: 10, 15, 20, 25, and 30 MPa;
Extraction temperature: 35, 40, 45, 50, and 55 °C;
CO2 flow rate: 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 L/h.
Table 2 provides a detailed summary of the experimental settings, including the times of extraction (2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 h).
2.4. Response Surface Optimization Design
The SC-CO
2 extraction technique was improved and the link between essential elements was better understood by using RSM after the single-factor tests. The RSM analysis took into account three independent variables: extraction pressure, extraction temperature, and CO
2 flow rate. These three factors had a substantial impact on essential oil production. The software Design-Expert 13.0 was also used to apply a three-level Box–Behnken design (BBD) with essential oil yield as the response variable. Finding the best conditions for extracting and ranking the variables and their interactions required a study with a second-order polynomial model. Each experiment was performed three times, and the findings are displayed as an average. In
Table 3, you can see all of the experiments’ parameters [
13,
27,
28,
29].
All experimental runs, including single-factor and RSM trials, were performed in triplicate (n = 3) to ensure reproducibility. Data are expressed as mean ± standard deviation (SD). The SD values were calculated from replicate measurements, and error bars in all figures represent one SD from the mean. Statistical significance of model terms was evaluated using ANOVA (α = 0.05) as implemented in Design-Expert 13.0 software.
Table 3 shows the three extraction factors—pressure, temperature, and CO
2 flow rate—used in the RSM design, each tested at three levels (low, medium, high). The central point (25 MPa, 50 °C, 8 L/h) represents the optimal midpoint for analyzing their combined effects on extraction yield.
2.5. Preparation of Phoenix Dancong Tea Essential Oil-Coated Fabrics and Subjective Odor Retention Evaluation
To investigate the fragrance-retention performance of Phoenix Dancong tea essential oil on textile substrates and explore its potential applications in functional textiles, a standardized blade-coating technique was employed. The essential oil was incorporated into various textile fabrics, and its adsorption behavior and aroma release properties were systematically evaluated.
The essential oil used in this study was obtained under optimized SC-CO
2 extraction conditions. Based on our previous work [
30], a coating formulation was prepared using WPU as the film-forming agent and PDMS as an auxiliary additive. Textile substrates were cut into A4-sized specimens (210 mm × 297 mm) for coating.
Specifically, a coating paste with a 30% (
w/
w) Phoenix Dancong Tea essential oil concentration was prepared by mixing WPU (30 g), PDMS (20 g), Phoenix Dancong Tea essential oil (30 g), and distilled water (20 g). PDMS and Phoenix Dancong Tea essential oil were premixed to form a uniform oil phase, while WPU and distilled water were blended as the aqueous phase. Under continuous stirring, the oil phase was slowly added dropwise into the aqueous phase and emulsified using a high-shear homogenizer at 10,000 rpm for 5 min, yielding a stable, milky-white emulsion with moderate viscosity and no phase separation [
31,
32]. The resulting paste was then uniformly coated onto the fabric surface using a blade to achieve a wet film thickness of 0.10 mm. The coated samples were dried in a forced-air oven at 40 °C for 30 min to complete thermal curing and were subsequently sealed for storage.
To assess the aroma release performance, a subjective olfactory evaluation method based on human perception was adopted. In accordance with GB/T 14454 “Methods for Odor Evaluation of Fragrances,” a sensory panel of 10 certified senior tea tasters (5 males and 5 females, average age 46 years) was assembled to conduct the evaluation. A five-point scale was used, with Level 1 indicating extremely faint aroma and Level 5 indicating intense and overwhelming fragrance.
Prior to testing, the coated fabric samples were placed in a cool, ventilated environment for 12 h to reach volatilization equilibrium. Evaluations were performed independently in a controlled sensory room free of external disturbances. Each panelist rated the aroma intensity and provided descriptive feedback. The final aroma grade was determined as the average score of all 10 panelists, ensuring objectivity and reproducibility of the results.
Table 4 outlines the blade-coating formulation, showing a 30% tea oil emulsion with WPU and PDMS applied on fabrics using a 0.10 mm gap and dried at 40 °C for 30 min to ensure uniform coating and lasting fragrance.
Tea leaves are dried, ground, and extracted by SC-CO
2 to obtain pure essential oil, which is then emulsified and blade-coated onto fabric. The coated fabric is dried at 40 °C to produce a stable aromatic textile as shown in
Figure 1.
2.6. GC–MS Profiling (Objective Verification)
To objectively verify that the optimized supercritical CO2 extraction preserved the structural integrity of volatile compounds, the essential oil obtained under optimal conditions (25 MPa, 50 °C, 8 L h−1, 3 h) was analyzed by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS).
Analyses were performed using an Agilent 7890B GC system coupled with a 5977B mass selective detector (Agilent Technologies, USA) and an HP-5MS column (30 m × 0.25 mm × 0.25 µm). The carrier gas, helium, was constantly supplied at a flow rate of 1.0 mL min−1. I programmed the oven to start at 50 °C and keep it there for 2 min. After that, I was to bring it up to 250 °C and keep it there for 5 min, increasing the temperature by 4 degrees Celsius per minute. The injector and detector were kept at a ten-to-one ratio at 250 °C. Mass spectra were obtained in EI mode at 70 eV over m/z 35–400.
Peaks were identified by matching the mass spectra with the NIST 2020 Library and verified by comparing retention indices (RI) with literature data. Relative composition (%) was calculated by peak area normalization without correction factors. All analyses were performed in triplicate, and data are presented as mean ± SD.
In addition to sensory evaluation, gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS) was employed to objectively verify the chemical integrity and compositional stability of volatile compounds extracted under optimized SC-CO2 conditions.
4. Conclusions
Optimized extraction conditions in this paper are only applicable to dried, spring-harvested Phoenix Dancong tea leaves ground and sieved through 40–60 mesh stainless steel screens (which represents a particle of about (250–420 µm) having a low moisture level, less than 8%. Results may differ for fresh or older leaves due to changes in moisture, cell-wall structure, and volatile composition. Future studies should validate and adjust the model for different harvest seasons and leaf maturities to broaden its practical applicability.
This study optimized supercritical CO2 extraction of Phoenix Dancong tea essential oil using response surface methodology, identifying 25 MPa, 50 °C, 8 L h−1, and 3 h as optimal conditions, yielding 1.12% (w/w) oil. GC–MS confirmed preservation of key aroma compounds—linalool, geraniol, and their acetates—demonstrating excellent structural integrity and compositional stability. Among tested fabrics, cotton exhibited the highest fragrance retention, attributed to hydrogen bonding between cellulose hydroxyl groups and polar volatiles. The process offers green, residue-free extraction suitable for aromatic textile applications.
Merits: environmentally safe process, strong aroma fidelity, and scalable potential.
Limitations: evaluation restricted to dried, spring-harvested leaves and sensory-based retention tests.
Future work: extend optimization to varied leaf states, integrate inline moisture control for adaptive SC-CO2 systems, and conduct bioassays and life-cycle assessments to validate industrial sustainability.