Circularity and Digitalisation in German Textile Manufacturing: Towards a Blueprint for Strategy Development and Implementation
Abstract
:1. Introduction
2. Literature Review
2.1. The German T&C Industry
2.2. The Circular Economy in T&C Manufacturing
2.3. Digital Technology Deployment in T&C Manufacturing
2.4. Provisional Conceptual Framework
3. Research Method
4. Results
4.1. How Is the Circular Economy Currently Implemented in German T&C Manufacturing Companies? (RQ1)
4.1.1. Overview
4.1.2. Narrowing/Eco-Efficiency
Reduce Negative Environmental Impact
Reduce Waste and Scrap
Reduce Resource Consumption
4.1.3. Slowing
Waste Utilisation
Durability of Products and Materials
Extend Product Lifespan
Extend Lifespan of Machines and Equipment
4.1.4. Closing
Recycling of Products and Materials
Recyclable Products and Materials
4.1.5. Summary
4.2. How Are DTs Being Used to Support and Advance CE Practices in German T&C Manufacturing Companies? (RQ2)
4.2.1. Overview
4.2.2. Social Media and Digital Collaboration
4.2.3. Mobile Computing
4.2.4. Big Data and Analytics
4.2.5. Cloud Computing
4.2.6. Blockchain Technology (BC)
4.2.7. Robotics
4.2.8. Artificial Intelligence (AI)
4.2.9. Internet of Things (IoT)
4.2.10. Digital Fabrication
4.2.11. Other Digital Systems and Platforms
4.2.12. Summary
4.3. What Are the Challenges and Critical Issues for Current and Future CE Transition and Digitalisation in the German T&C Manufacturing Sector? (RQ3)
4.3.1. Challenges
4.3.2. Success Factors
5. Discussion
6. Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Data Availability Statement
Conflicts of Interest
Appendix A
Theme | Company Code | Statement Examples |
---|---|---|
Reduce negative environmental impact | A | “We have our own wastewater treatment plant on site”. |
B | “We have been recording this consistently since 1997. We can systematically record key indicators, and are actually always up to date in terms of the current input and output; this systematic tracking allows us to establish benchmarks and set improvement goals”. | |
C | “We make significant investments in photovoltaic systems wherever it is feasible”. | |
D | “We hold various certifications, including Ökotex for our products, as well as GOTS, GRS, and RWS certifications”. | |
E | “We have a water treatment system that effectively recovers and processes water for reuse. The system employs various process chemicals, ensuring compliance with ZDHC [Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals] standards, to make the treated water suitable for repeated use”. | |
F | “20% of our energy consumption is covered by our photovoltaic system […]. We calculate and balance our CO2 footprint annually (Scope 1, 2, and 3) and fully offset the calculated CO2 emissions through the support of climate projects”. | |
G | "Regarding emissions, our digital printing processes and the use of certified inks have virtually eliminated exhaust emissions. This also leads to significantly fewer chemicals on the fabric”. | |
H | “As a textile finisher, energy consumption—both electricity and heat—is a significant factor. For instance, we require 4 million kilowatt-hours of electricity annually, a quarter of which is generated through on-site solar photovoltaics (PV), a practice we began over 20 years ago and have gradually expanded. However, further expansion of renewable electricity generation currently seems unfeasible. In addition to electricity, we also require 8 million kilowatt-hours of thermal energy, which we generate sustainably using biomass”. | |
I | “We aim to minimize air freight wherever possible and have set specific air freight targets for each department”. | |
J | “We are collaborating with other brands and partners at our production sites. This initiative focuses on substituting coal with natural gas or biomass and implementing various energy efficiency measures to further reduce our environmental impact”. | |
Reduce waste and scrap | A | “We reduce waste by integrating quality assurance measures to ensure optimal production outcomes”. |
B | “When we notice during production checks or inspections that the product quality is deteriorating, adjustments are made at the cotton stage, including adapting the blend to counteract the issue”. | |
D | “We have system that analyses and categorises waste into different types, aiming to reduce avoidable waste. This effort spans a wide range, starting from copier paper and extending to various other areas […]. We operate on a made-to-order production basis”. | |
E | “We aim for real-time error detection to minimise waste, so that as soon as a defect is detected, we can intervene before too much low-quality material is produced”. | |
F | “We produce almost exclusively on-demand, with everything tailored to customer requirements. We maintain only a small stock program, which we constantly adjust by monitoring which colors perform well and to what extent”. | |
G | We carefully evaluate where we can reduce waste, particularly since we have to pay for disposal. One significant area of improvement has been the reduction in waste from printing ink, which used to be a major issue. Now, thanks to advancements, ink usage has been minimised, and almost no ink needs to be discarded anymore. | |
H | “Production is increasingly aligned with actual sales or near-certain demand. This approach minimises overproduction and eliminates surplus stock that would otherwise need to be reprocessed or discarded later”. | |
Reduce resource consumption | A | “We operate an on-site gas power plant, which not only generates energy but also produces steam and heat that are directly utilized in production processes, ensuring a very high level of efficiency”. |
B | “Between 2008 and 2023, we progressively reduced water usage by 30%. For example, in 2008, 132 L of water were needed per kilogram of yarn, whereas by 2023, this figure had dropped to just 96 L”. | |
C | “We have modernised our dyeing facility in Germany, equipping it with completely new, fully automated dyeing kettles featuring smaller, individually adjustable batch sizes. This allows for a more efficient dyeing process, significantly reducing water consumption and chemical use […]”. | |
D | “There are various ongoing projects aimed at energy savings, as is mandatory for everyone, including us. We are certified in energy management”. | |
E | “Our process involves an important distinction: the precursor to our final product is a fleece […]. The edges of this need to be trimmed. Since no solidification has yet occurred, these trimmed edges are collected via suction systems and fed back […]. This allows us to save material that would otherwise need to be added anew”. | |
F | “Our electricity, gas, heating oil, and diesel consumption are continuously monitored. Through a variety of measures, we have achieved significant energy savings in recent years. For instance, since 2019, our electricity consumption per meter of produced fabric has been reduced by nearly 19%”. “Since 1998, we have been monitoring our water consumption and continuously evaluating necessary measures to conserve this resource […]. We have achieved significant reductions over the past five years, cutting our annual municipal water consumption by nearly 25% and our annual water consumption for climate control in production by almost 47%”. “We are reusing leftover yarns by incorporating them into the production process, such as into the selvedge". | |
G | “We reuse water up to four times, capturing it with installed pumps and tanks. For instance, we reuse cooling water in the dyeing process, significantly reducing our energy and water consumption […]. We are already forced to do this for energy reasons - we have had this system for over 20 years now and nobody forced us to do it, [but] we are business people and can do the maths”. | |
H | “We have implemented a rigorous selection process for dyes, chemicals, and auxiliaries, prioritising those with a very high efficacy spectrum. For example, when working with cellulose and reactive dyes, it is possible to purchase inexpensive reactive dyes with yields of only 60–75%, coupled with an extensive need of water. Our approach focuses on sourcing dyes with the highest possible fixation rates, ensuring that 75–95% of the applied dye remains on the material and not in the water”. | |
J | “We are working intensively with our suppliers, to establish and evaluate new dyeing and finishing processes and implement process optimisation. Particularly in our production countries, water recovery has become a standard practice due to the limited availability of water. We actively support these initiatives and closely monitor developments, ensuring significant progress is made in this area”. |
Theme | Company Code | Statement Examples |
---|---|---|
Waste utilisation | A | “Defective goods, as long as they are in acceptable condition and not heavily contaminated, are sold as B-grade products”. |
C | “Yes, our main revenue driver when it comes to waste utilisation is selling our waste. We have different types of waste with varying lengths and qualities at multiple stages, and even our combings are of interest to those who need shorter fibers. If we simply sell our waste in bulk, we generate significantly more revenue compared to all our recycling efforts, and it doesn’t appear that this will change”. | |
D | “Waste is collected and sold separately as far as possible”. | |
E | “We try to separate and collect as much as possible—whether it’s household waste, production waste like nonwoven scraps, old wood, or plastic packaging”. | |
F | “We are currently collaborating on a research project with [university], where we produce round-needled tubular structures from our own waste trimmings. These are intended for use in furniture manufacturing. Since 2018, we have also had our own home collection, offering cushions and small furniture, and we aim to incorporate such circular products into this line”. | |
H | “Almost nothing goes into general waste; we sort and return all cardboard, films, and yarns used in production”. | |
I | “We repurpose leftover materials for smaller projects. For example, in our own service factory, we create items like bags from these materials. All of our posters and banners, which are made of textile, are collected from our stores and points of sale, then transformed into bags. These are often used as giveaways and feature interesting designs and images. We are actively working on many projects to reuse waste in this area”. | |
J | “For our products, we actively engage in upcycling. Items that may be faulty, particularly from our manufacturing process, are repurposed and enhanced to create new products. For example, we produce shopper bags or wallets from cutting scraps. We consistently explore ways to make better use of these materials, ensuring they are transformed into valuable items rather than wasted”. | |
Durable products and materials | B | “We aim to explore niche markets to sustain jobs at our location. Technical textiles, for instance, are significantly more profitable than basic yarns used for producing T-shirts. Our focus is consistently on high-quality products”. |
F | “Our fabrics are designed to be washable and easy to care for”. | |
H | “Our focus is on ensuring our product has the highest possible durability”, which applies to both final products and intermediary materials. | |
I | “As part of our new brand DNA, longevity has become a core focus for us. This means it is undoubtedly an important topic. We’re now introducing extended warranties, which further underscores how crucial this is for us […]”. | |
J | “Our products have a relatively long lifespan. We’re talking about 10 years or more, potentially even up to 20 years, depending on the area of application, intensity of use, and maintenance”. | |
C | “We have already conducted trials using reusable transport boxes for dye cones”. | |
F | “We offer training and even provide support to end consumers. For example, if someone has a [product] with our fabric, we have a service hotline where they can ask questions like how to deal with pressure marks on velour, or how to properly clean and maintain the fabric. We also advise on removing stains from materials like marker ink or nail polish. While we don’t offer repairs, we do provide a care service to ensure the fabric lasts as long as possible, aligning with our commitment to durability”. | |
H | “We strive to reuse everything related to packaging whenever possible. For instance, with cardboard boxes, we have agreements with our customers to return the products in the original boxes, keeping them in circulation for as long as possible. Similarly, stretch films and cores are reused whenever feasible, with efforts to employ reusable cores. For materials like plastic films, we ensure they are sorted by type and returned to the manufacturer for recycling. This approach maximizes the lifecycle of packaging materials and aligns with our sustainability goals”. | |
I | “We try to repair first—we have a Service Factory, and we’re developing strategies to expand our repair offerings”. | |
J | “We have offered a repair service at our company for as long as the company has existed—around 50 years”. “We also provide rental models and second-hand offerings. About a month ago, we officially launched these initiatives, which received some media attention […]. Our aim is to explore how these models can evolve into viable business opportunities […]. We are also working on designing future products in specific categories to better align them with rental systems. These products may, for example, be heavier or more modular, allowing easier replacement of components, thereby improving their suitability for rental and extending their overall lifespan”. | |
Extend life-span of machines and equipment | B | “In the past, maintenance intervals were based on rough estimates and experience, such as assuming that a carding set would last around three months. However, with modern testing procedures and technologies, these intervals have been extended significantly”. |
G | “Our stretching frame is older than I am, but with proper maintenance, it still makes sense to keep it running”. | |
H | “We have implemented proactive maintenance, […], based on this knowledge, components are replaced at appropriate intervals”. |
Theme | Company Code | Statement Examples |
---|---|---|
Recycling of products and materials | B | “Using recycled cotton means less water use in farming, fewer chemicals, and reduced transportation impacts. This makes it a sustainable product, and we aim to maximise its potential, particularly in the premium segment”. |
C | “We also have our own ‘recycled product’ [made from recycled fibres], which sells steadily. However, it always includes a portion of virgin fiber to ensure the material can be processed effectively through our spinning machines”. | |
E | “In our carbon fiber nonwoven production, the process was set up to incorporate waste from carbon fiber nonwoven production. We purchase these materials and produce our own carbon fiber nonwovens from them. This means that these products are essentially made entirely from recycled materials, qualifying as 100% secondary raw materials”. | |
F | “We have a recycled collection for two years now. However, it’s not textile-to-textile recycling; instead, we rely on PET recycled yarns made from PET bottles. Currently, we are also exploring new options and have sourced a new fiber-to-fiber recycled yarn that we are now testing”. | |
H | “We purchase certain packaging items, such as cartons and foils from recycled materials”. | |
I | “We are working on a circularity collection, meaning a collection […] of mono-component products, meaning they are made of 100% recycled polyester wherever possible”. “When we use natural fibers, particularly in the wool sector, we exclusively use recycled wool, such as shredded wool or collected wool, to ensure resource efficiency. We aim to use as little conventional [virgin] wool as possible”. “The consumer can visit our website to generate and print a free DHL return label, allowing them to send products back to us at no cost. Currently, we handle this process in-house and do not collaborate with an external partner for returns”. | |
J | “We strive for, and have already largely achieved, the predominant use of non-fossil raw materials in our products. Currently, approximately 90% of our raw materials consist of recycled, bio-based, or biomass-allocated materials. This shift has significantly reduced our carbon footprint”. “We also operate a take-back system, allowing customers to return their old products. Depending on their condition, we either repair the items under our manufacturer’s warranty or as a paid service […]. However, some products, due to their condition, cannot be economically repaired. Currently, we collaborate with ‘Fairwertung’, which oversees the redistribution of these items. This includes second-hand resale, recycling, or appropriate disposal, depending on the product’s viability. | |
Recyclable products and materials | A | “We explore how our fibers can contribute to making textile products more circular. For instance, we assess the potential to replace synthetic fibers with functionalised viscose fibers, enabling products to be designed for biodegradability or improved recyclability”. |
G | “We now stop printing at the seam, which means the fabric remains clean and can be more easily recycled”. | |
H | “We’re already working with designers to use only specific dyes and chemicals, so the product can be recycled later”. | |
I | “We have guidelines from our recycler on what materials can be used, and we integrate these from the beginning of the design process”. |
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DT | Role of Advancing Circularity in T&C Manufacturing | References |
---|---|---|
Social media |
| [41,42] |
Mobile computing |
| [43,44] |
Analytics/Big data |
| [45,46] |
Cloud and edge computing |
| [47,48] |
Blockchain technology (BC) |
| [18,49,50,51,52] |
Robotics |
| [48,53,54] |
Artificial intelligence (AI) |
| [55,56,57,58,59] |
Internet of Things (IoT) |
| [60,61,62,63] |
Digital fabrication (DF) |
| [41,62,64,65,66,67,68,69] |
Code | Description | Size | Interviewee |
---|---|---|---|
A | Manufacturer of manmade fibres for various applications | Large | Project Lead New Business Development |
B | Processor of natural fibres and manufacturing of yarns | Medium | Certification and Sustainability Manager |
C | Manufacturer of yarns (including dying) from natural fibres | Medium | Management Representative |
D | Manufacturer of yarns (including dying) from natural and synthetic fibres | Large | Head of Quality Assurance |
E | Manufacturer of nonwovens for various applications | Large | Sustainability Manager |
F | Manufacturer of woven fabrics for home textiles | Medium | Head of Sustainability & Marketing |
G | Manufacturer of printed fabrics for clothing textiles | Small | CEO |
H | Manufacturer of dyed yarns for various applications | Medium | Head of Research and Development |
I | Sports and outdoor clothing brand | Medium | Director of Quality and Corporate Responsibility |
J | Sports and outdoor clothing brand | Large | Senior Innovation Manager Materials and Manufacturing |
Narrowing | Slowing | Closing |
---|---|---|
|
|
|
CE Strategies and Practices | Narrowing/Eco-Efficiency | Slowing | Closing | |||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
T&C Process Clusters and Companies | Reduce Negative Environmental Impact | Reduce Waste and Scrap | Reduce Resource Consumption | Waste Utilisation | Durable Products and Materials | Extend Product Lifespan | Extend Lifespan of Machines and Equipment | Recycling of Products and Materials | Recyclable Products and Materials | |
Fibre processing | A | x | x | x | x | x | x | |||
B | x | x | x | x | x | x | ||||
Yarn production | C | x | x | x | x | x | ||||
D | x | x | x | x | ||||||
Fabric production | E | x | x | x | x | x | ||||
F | x | x | x | x | x | x | x | |||
Wet processing | G | x | x | x | x | x | ||||
H | x | x | x | x | x | x | x | x | x | |
T&C brands/production | I | x | x | x | x | x | x | |||
J | x | x | x | x | x | x | ||||
Total | 10 | 7 | 9 | 8 | 5 | 6 | 3 | 7 | 4 |
Social Media | Mobile Computing | Big Data/ Analytics | Cloud Computing | Blockchain | Robotics | Artificial Intelligence | Internet of Things | Digital Fabrication | |||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
deployed | planned | deployed | planned | deployed | planned | deployed | planned | deployed | planned | deployed | planned | deployed | planned | deployed | planned | deployed | planned | ||
Fibre production | A | x | x | x | x | x | x | ||||||||||||
B | x | x | x | x | x | ||||||||||||||
Yarn production | C | x | x | ||||||||||||||||
D | x | x | x | x | x | ||||||||||||||
Fabric production | E | x | x | x | x | x | x | x | x | x | |||||||||
F | x | ||||||||||||||||||
Wet processing | G | x | x | x | x | x | x | ||||||||||||
H | x | x | x | x | x | x | |||||||||||||
Textile and clothing production | I | x | x | x | x | x | x | x | |||||||||||
J | x | x | x | x | x | x | x | x | |||||||||||
Total % of companies | 100% | 0% | 70% | 0% | 60% | 10% | 70% | 10% | 30% | 10% | 30% | 10% | 20% | 30% | 40% | 20% | 30% | 10% |
DT | Social Media | Mobile Computing | Big Data/ Analytics | Cloud Computing | Blockchain | Robotics | Artificial Intelligence | Internet of Things | Digital Fabrication | Other | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
CE Strategy | Related DT Function and CE Practice | Management System | ERP System | PDM System | E-Commerce/ Website | |||||||||
Narrowing / Eco-efficiency | DT Function | Digital collaboration tools for meetings Virtual product presentation | Operational and strategic data analysis | Online platform for chemical management Document sharing with stakeholders | Traceability and transparency | Process automation | Image recognition for quality control Image generation/design | Traceability of materials (physical tracers) Real-time data collection | Digital printing on fabrics Digital colour management 3D design | Centralised data collection for process control and certification | Centralised data collection for operational data and process integration | Centralised product data collection for data and process integration | ||
CE Practice | Reduce negative environmental impact Reduce material use and consumption | Reduce negative environmental impact Reduce energy consumption Reduce waste and scrap | Reduce chemical consumption Reduce material use and consumption | Reduce negative environmental impact Reduce resource consumption | Reduce waste and scrap Reduce material use and consumption | Reduce waste and scrap Reduce negative environmental impact Reduce material use and consumption | Reduce negative environmental Reduce waste and scrap | Reduce negative environmental impact Reduce waste and scrap Reduce chemical consumption Reduce water consumption Reduce material use and consumption | Reduce negative environmental impact Reduce chemical consumption | Reduce negative environmental impact Reduce waste and scrap Reduce material use and consumption | Reduce negative environmental impact | |||
Slowing | DT Function | Consumer education about care and maintenance | Traceability and transparency | Traceability of materials (physical tracers) Digital tags for consumer information | Online marketplace for scrap and secondary raw materials | |||||||||
CE Practice | Extend product lifespan | Durable products and materials | Durable products and materials Extend product lifespan | Waste utilisation | ||||||||||
Closing | DT Function | Process automation | Digital tags for consumer information | |||||||||||
CE Practice | Recyclable products and materials | Recycling of products and materials |
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Wiegand, T.; Wynn, M. Circularity and Digitalisation in German Textile Manufacturing: Towards a Blueprint for Strategy Development and Implementation. Processes 2024, 12, 2697. https://doi.org/10.3390/pr12122697
Wiegand T, Wynn M. Circularity and Digitalisation in German Textile Manufacturing: Towards a Blueprint for Strategy Development and Implementation. Processes. 2024; 12(12):2697. https://doi.org/10.3390/pr12122697
Chicago/Turabian StyleWiegand, Tina, and Martin Wynn. 2024. "Circularity and Digitalisation in German Textile Manufacturing: Towards a Blueprint for Strategy Development and Implementation" Processes 12, no. 12: 2697. https://doi.org/10.3390/pr12122697
APA StyleWiegand, T., & Wynn, M. (2024). Circularity and Digitalisation in German Textile Manufacturing: Towards a Blueprint for Strategy Development and Implementation. Processes, 12(12), 2697. https://doi.org/10.3390/pr12122697