1. Introduction
Product ranges for microbiome supplementation have existed for several decades and were initially designed to target the gut microbiota. Three categories of microbiome supplementation have been created and are detailed as follows: prebiotics, which are food components that positively affect the gut microbiota (e.g., lactulose, fructo-oligosaccharides and inulin); postbiotics, which are substances resulting from microbiota metabolism and that have a beneficial effect on the microbiota itself as well as the host; finally, probiotics, which are living microorganisms having health benefits for consumers [
1]. These definitions, which initially described ingested products for microbiome supplementation, were recently transposed to topically applied products having a beneficial effect on the skin microbiota.
A newly formed category of products dedicated to the microbiome are psychobiotics. They are defined as beneficial bacteria or compounds that have a positive action on beneficial bacteria, providing benefits to the host’s mental health [
2]. Indeed, the communication between the gut and the brain has been studied in depth, and three major communication pathways have been identified: the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis, the immune response and neurotransmitters; three pathways that also interestingly link the skin microbiota to the brain [
3].
The identification of short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs) that are produced by the gut and the skin microbiome and are involved in the dialogue between microbiome and pain open new doors for the development of topically applied psychobiotics. SCFAs are saturated aliphatic organic acids that consist of one to six carbons: acetate, propionate, and butyrate are the most abundant. It has been proven for the gut microbiome that SCFAs act as metabolic substrates regulating the host cellular metabolism and differentiation, the integrity of the epithelial barrier through the synthesis of mucus, the immune system and microglia maturation. Very interestingly, microglia regulates emotional alteration through mediating immune response (modified microglia metabolism in some mental disorders, e.g., depression and bi-polar disorders) [
4,
5,
6]. Recently, some research works showed that providing oligosaccharides supplementation is an efficient way to stimulate the production of SCFAs by the microbiota [
7,
8,
9].
We can hypothesize a similar role on the skin for the SCFAs produced by the skin microbiota. Indeed, it has been already proven that
Cutibacterium acnes and
Staphylococcus epidermidis were able to produce acetate, propionate and butyrate [
10]. The production of fatty acids by the skin microbiota to bring skin benefits, such as rebalancing skin sebum production, would be of great interest regarding the condition of dry scalp.
Before exploring the benefits of skin microbiota rebalancing on the condition of dry scalp, we must understand the characteristics and issues of scalp dryness. Scalp dryness is characterized by a poor sebum production by sebocytes that leads to skin barrier disruption [
11]. As previously described, skin sebum level and microbiota composition are closely linked. Previous metagenomics studies performed by Mukherjee et al. [
12] and by Shibagaki et al. [
13] highlighted a correlation between age, sebum level of the skin and alpha diversity (Shannon index). Indeed, they demonstrated that an increase in sebum is significantly correlated with a reduction in the alpha diversity of the microbiota and with an increase in the relative abundance of
Cutibacterium [
12]. In the same way, they also showed that an increase in alpha diversity and a decrease in the relative abundance of
Cutibacterium on skin in a group of people aged over than 60 years old compared to people aged below 37 years old [
13] is consistent with the fact that skin sebum content is described to decrease during chronological ageing of the body [
14]. Following these observations, we can suppose that a metagenomics analysis on dry scalp would evidence a drastic increase in alpha diversity with a weak relative abundance of
Cutibacterium. Alpha diversity and relative abundance of
Cutibacterium could be markers that define the scalp condition, especially in this context of scalp dryness, and could be an interesting way to highlight the biological benefits of active ingredients on dry scalp and microbiota.
In addition to poor sebum production by sebocytes, keratinocytes can present an anarchic migration through the over-stimulation of the p38/mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway, leading to an abnormal stratum corneum thickening [
15,
16,
17].
Scalp dryness is also due to a very low level of hydration, causing the production of dry flakes [
18]. Skin hydration is possible due to a good balance between the maintenance of skin barrier function and the production of natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) [
19]. In the context of dry skin, there is a loss of expression of the FLG gene coding for profilaggrin and filaggrin, resulting in the impairment of skin barrier function, and of hydration as a result [
20]. This combination of characteristics causes scalp itching and scratching, leading to the production of dry flakes which fall in the hair and on clothes.
Beyond the biological characteristics of scalp dryness and the link with skin microbiota, falling flakes in an unsightly problem that leads to emotional distress as many unsightly issues. To understand why, experts in skin research have recently increased their interest in the skin-brain axis in order to understand the link between people’s skin condition and their state of mind. Psycho-dermatology studies have demonstrated that people suffering from skin sensitivity and, more globally, anaesthetic disorders, are emotionally affected by their skin appearance and are more prone to depression, anxiety, feel unable to play a useful role, lose confidence and experience many other negative feelings [
21,
22,
23,
24].
As described earlier, the microbiome is another contributor to overall health and wellbeing. That is why, through this study, the microbiome-skin-brain axis was explored by studying the impact of the modulation of skin microbiota composition and skin structure improvement on the feelings and the mood of people suffering from dry scalp. Indeed, we hypothesized that improving the skin sebum production and microbiota composition would improve the skin condition of people suffering from scalp dryness, until the improvement of their mood.
To help us in this research, we worked with Pogostemon cablin Benth. (id: wfo-0000279652), a species of plant from the family Lamiaceae that is native to the Philippines where it grows wild as in most parts of South Asian countries. The aerial parts (leaves and stems) were previously distillated to obtain the essential oil. Then, they were dried and reused through an eco-design process with Subcritical Water Extraction (SWE) to obtain an extract rich in oligosaccharides. In this work, the benefits of this extract were first evaluated in vitro and in vivo on the condition of dry scalp regarding skin structure, sebum and the production of dry flakes. In a second step, we went further by studying if these benefits could lead to microbiota rebalancing and an improvement in volunteers’ feelings in order to complete the knowledge about the microbiome-skin-brain axis.
3. Results and Discussion
3.1. Evaluation of the Correlation Scalp Sebum/Scalp Microbiota
To begin this study, the correlation between sebum level and scalp microbiota composition was evaluated by performing a metagenomics analysis to compare microbiota between dry and oily scalp.
First, the link between sebum level and scalp microbiota composition was studied using the 16S sequencing approach. An interesting significant variation on scalp microbiota composition which is related to the amount of sebum was observed (
Figure 3A). Among them, there was an important +54% increase of the relative abundance of
Cutibacterium on oily scalp. The high dominance of
Cutibacterium on oily scalp could be linked with the demonstration that
Cutibacterium are able to produce SCFAs that increase the metabolism of skin sebocytes, thus supplying the scalp with fatty acids and maintaining the oily state of the scalp [
10,
26]. A high relative abundance of
Cutibacterium should be used as marker to evaluate the impact of microbiota composition on scalp sebum.
The link between the alpha diversity (Shannon index) and the level of sebum was also studied. The alpha diversity is based on an index giving information about the global microbiota composition. The more that alpha diversity is elevated, the more we expect to observe a complex microbiota composition, and conversely. A significant reduction of alpha diversity between dry and oily scalp by −25% was shown, correlated with a huge increase of sebum production by +719% between dry and oily scalp (
Figure 3B). The scalp sebum production is known to induce
Cutibacterium proliferation, and this proliferation will in turn activate the production of sebum [
27,
28].
These results confirmed that the composition of scalp microbiota has an impact on the quantity of sebum on scalp, and conversely.
Here, we demonstrated that the level of sebum, the alpha diversity and the relative abundance of Cutibacterium are three biomarkers that can highlight the effect of active cosmetics on dry scalp. Indeed, a dry scalp presents a low level of sebum linked to an important alpha diversity and a low relative abundance of Cutibacterium. Conversely, the oily scalp shows an important amount of sebum related to a low alpha diversity with a high relative abundance of Cutibacterium. Following these observations, an active ingredient from microbiota composition was developed to provide benefits to volunteers exhibiting dry scalp condition until they presented mood improvement.
3.2. Characterization of Pogostemon cablin SWE Extract Composition
In order to characterize the composition of our SWE extract, a fractionation by CPC (Centrifugal Partition Chromatography) was performed. Twelve (12) fractions were obtained and then each fraction was analyzed by 13C NMR. Through an HCA (Hierarchical Clustering Analysis), the resulting 13C NMR chemical shift clusters were visualized as dendrograms on a two-dimensional map. For metabolite identification, each result was manually submitted to the structure search engine of the database management software ACD/NMR version 12.0 comprising the structures and predicted chemical shifts of low molecular weight natural products. Polyphenolic compounds (flavonoids, phenolic acids) and organics acids were the major compounds identified in the fractions until F9, then the fractions recovered over the extrusion step (F10-F12, 85% of the extract mass) were not fully soluble in DMSO-d6 and were probably composed of oligosaccharides.
Then, the composition of sugars (free and total sugars of our SWE extract) was analyzed. The results in
Table 2 demonstrated that after hydrolysis the content of sugars was multiplied by 24. These results confirm our previous hypothesis on the presence of oligo/polymers of sugars. We also demonstrated that the dry matter was composed of close to 50% of sugars.
To complete, a size exclusion chromatography coupled to RID allowed for the determination of the size of the oligo/polymers. UV detection was also used in order to check the presence of chromophore that could confirm the presence of amino acids in the polymer structure. The results in
Table 3 demonstrated that 28% of the oligomers were not detected in UV and were only detectable in RID, suggesting that they could be considered as oligosaccharides. The remaining 72% of oligomers were detected in UV at 210 and 280 nm, suggesting they could be identified as proteoglycans.
3.3. Gene Regulation
After developing an extract from
Pogostemon cablin leaves rich in oligosaccharides, the potential benefit of this active ingredient was first evaluated through a transcriptomic study. Transcriptomic analysis was performed by RT-qPCR on specific pre-coated plates designed to study the transcriptomic expression of different genes involved in epidermal function, such as epidermal cohesion, epidermal differentiation, barrier homeostasis, DNA repair and skin calming. The results were expressed in comparison with those from the untreated condition used as negative control and were normalized with the average of most stable housekeeping genes (ABL1 and EIF2B1). The values of fold change and their SEM were reported in the
Table 4.
Pogostemon cablin extract showed significant bioactivity at the epidermis level by significantly stimulating genes controlling epidermal cohesion (CLDN1 +49%, OCLN +61%), differentiation (SPRRIA +108%, KRT13 +60%, FLG +109%, CASP14 +1128% and CD44 −42%), hydration (AQP3 +177%) and by inhibiting genes involved in keratinocytes migration (HBEGF −46%). Indeed, keratinocytes migration capacity is linked to the expression of heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HB-EGF) that provokes the EGF receptor phosphorylation, leading to the phosphorylation of p38/mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) [
15]. MAPK is an important kinase responsible for cytoskeleton reorganization that promotes cell migration [
16].
It has been described that the formation of white flakes is correlated to an excessive keratinocytes migration promoting a thickening of
stratum corneum which is correlated to dry scalp inducing itching and micro-inflammation [
17]. Due to mechanical processes, the itching strongly contributes to the accumulation of white flakes and scalp discomfort [
18,
29]. This transcriptomic study on keratinocytes showed that
Pogostemon cablin extract could lead to a potential improvement of skin barrier function and a decrease in dry white flakes production, by controlling keratinocytes hyper-migration by inhibiting the expression of the HBEGF gene, an improvement of epidermis cohesion through the upregulation of CLDN1, OCLN, SPRRIA, KRT13, FLG, CASP14 an CD44 genes and increasing scalp hydration (AQP3 gene upregulation). As the formation of white flakes is correlated to an excessive keratinocytes migration promoting a thickening of
stratum corneum, these results suggest that
Pogostemon cablin extract could help to fix this issue.
3.4. Keratinocytes Migration
Following the transcriptomic study that showed the inhibition of the HBEGF gene by
Pogostemon cablin extract, the consequence on keratinocytes migration property was then evaluated. For that, the percentage of wound closing was measured by a scratch assay performed on keratinocytes monolayer. First, a significant increase of keratinocytes migration (+132%) was observed after 8 h with HB-EGF treatment. This is consistent with the literature that describes HB-EGF to activate the EGFR signaling pathway and stimulating p38/MAPK that is responsible for cytoskeleton reorganization and cell migration [
15,
16]. Contrariwise,
Pogostemon cablin extract totally inhibited keratinocytes migration by 100%, which is consistent with the observed inhibition of the HBEGF gene (
Figure 4).
This result showed that Pogostemon cablin extract would have a positive impact on disorders presenting important and anarchic keratinocytes migration, such as the formation of white flakes.
3.5. Stratum Corneum Thickness Analysis
Anarchic keratinocytes migration is associated with an important
stratum corneum thickening which then leads to the formation of white flakes [
17]. We wanted to evaluate if the keratinocytes migration inhibition by
Pogostemon cablin extract could reduce
stratum corneum thickening and thus lead to an improvement regarding the formation of white flakes.
After 10 days of incubation, a significant
stratum corneum thickening of +59% was observed without any treatment compared with D0. This model mimics
stratum corneum thickening that leads to the formation of white flakes. When Carbopol vehicle was topically applied,
stratum corneum presented the same thickness as untreated condition, demonstrating that it had no impact on it. The topical application of
Pogostemon cablin extract significantly decreased
stratum corneum thickness by −35% compared to Carbopol condition (
Figure 5).
Here, we confirmed that Pogostemon cablin extract, through the inhibition of HBEGF expression and keratinocytes migration, was able to restore a normal stratum corneum thickness.
3.6. Reconstructed Human Epidermis in Dry Culture Condition
The transcriptomic analysis also showed the stimulation of genes involved in epidermis differentiation (SPRRIA, KRT13, FLG, CASP14 and CD44) after treatment with Pogostemon cablin extract, suggesting this extract could effectively stimulate the natural tools of the epidermis to restore a strong barrier function and thus lead to an improvement of dry skin condition.
To answer this question, Pogostemon cablin extract was evaluated on an innovative RHE model cultivated at a low level of hygrometry for 48 h leading to RHE adaptation mimicking dry skin features. For that, RHE were exposed to low hygrometry for 48 h with or without topical application of Pogostemon cablin extract.
In physiological condition, skin has the capacity to maintain this balance thank to keratohyalin granules that are present in the granular layer of the epidermis. These keratohyalin granules contains the precursor pro-filaggrin that is cleaved by caspase 14, thus producing monomeric filaggrin that binds to and condense the keratin cytoskeleton to promote corneocytes compaction process for and impermeable barrier, and NMFs that contribute to the maintenance of skin hydration [
30].
Here, exposure to dry condition showed a decreased number of keratohyalin granules in the epidermis that resulted in a significant decrease of filaggrin expression (−24%) in the upper layers of the epidermis [
30]. In normal conditions, caspase 14 is described to cleave filaggrin in order to produce natural moisturizing factors (NMF) [
30]. Here, in the dry condition, there was a significant decrease of caspase 14 expression (−24%) compared to the normal condition, especially in
stratum granulosum, leading to a significant decrease of NMF production (−29%) as shown in
Figure 6.
The topical application of Pogostemon cablin extract on dry RHE increased the keratohyalin granules content in the epidermis, suggesting an increase in pro-filaggrin content. Indeed, filaggrin immunostaining showed a significant increase of filaggrin (+56%) and also an increase of caspase 14 expression in dry RHE (+49%) with Pogostemon cablin extract. This led to a cleavage of filaggrin as suggested by the significant increase of NMF content (+35%) compared to the untreated dry condition.
This model showed that Pogostemon cablin extract confers a protection to the skin against dryness. Moreover, these results demonstrated that Pogostemon cablin extract is also able to restore normal skin hydration in dried RHE condition.
3.7. Clinical Improvement of Microbiota Composition for a Restoration of Sebum Production
Two clinical studies were performed with a shampoo formula containing 0.5% of Pogostemon cablin extract versus a placebo in order to evaluate the efficacy of our active in rinse-off application on volunteers presenting dry scalp, itching, scalp discomfort and white flakes. Volunteers applied shampoo every other day for 28 days; white flakes were analyzed by scoring and were visualized by illustrative pictures obtained by C-cube® to confirm the biological benefit of the active ingredient on dry scalp. Metagenomics sampling was performed in order to study the scalp microbiota in these specific conditions. Finally, sebum was analyzed by Sebufix® where lipids droplets were evaluated by scoring performed by an expert.
3.7.1. White Flakes Scoring
After showing the benefits of
Pogostemon cablin extract in vitro and ex vivo, the impact of the active ingredient was evaluated on the production of white flakes. Before any product application and after two weeks and four weeks of shampoo application, a technician evaluated the presence of non-adherent dandruff in each of the four parts on the top of the head, as previously described in
Figure 1. A final score, that is the mean of the four-parts scores, was attributed to each volunteer at day 0 and after the application of placebo shampoo or shampoo containing
Pogostemon cablin extract.
The results showed that the application of shampoo containing
Pogostemon cablin extract at 0.5% significantly reduced the number of white flakes with time-effect in comparison with day 0 as observed by the reduction of −23% and −33% after 14 days and 28 days of application, respectively. Moreover, the effect of
Pogostemon cablin extract was significantly better in comparison with the placebo, showing a significant reduction of white flakes by up to 14% during the study (
Figure 7A). C-Cube
® was used to take pictures of the scalp area in order to better visualize the effect on white flakes. As shown in the following pictures, there was a drastic reduction in white flakes on the scalp after 14 and 28 days of active shampoo application containing
Pogostemon cablin extract, while the placebo shampoo showed a very slight effect (
Figure 7B).
These effects demonstrated that
Pogostemon cablin extract was able to significantly reduce white flakes on dry scalp in rinse-off application. This efficacy must be explained by the in vitro and ex vivo results that showed keratinocytes migration inhibition and the reduction of
stratum corneum thickness, confirming the works of Pastar et al. [
17].
3.7.2. Metagenomics Analysis
A preliminary study showed a variation in microbiota alpha diversity between dry and oily scalp, correlated with a different relative abundance of
Cutibacterium on these two types of scalp. Knowing that, we were interested in studying the impact of shampoo containing 0.5% of
Pogostemon cablin extract or placebo on the alpha diversity using Shannon index after 28 days of application. The active ingredient triggered a decrease of the alpha diversity by −15% versus placebo which had a slight effect on the diversity (
Figure 8A).
To understand this variation in alpha diversity, the impact of
Pogostemon cablin extract on
Cutibacterium relative abundance was analyzed after 28 days of application, previously identified as a biomarker of dry scalp improvement. An important decrease of
Cutibacterium proportion (−18.5%) was shown after 28 days of placebo application while the active ingredient induced an increase of the relative abundance of
Cutibacterium by +22% in comparison with the placebo formula (
Figure 8B). Our results confirmed that the variation in alpha diversity is correlated with the variation in the relative abundance of
Cutibacterium on scalp, which raises questions about the amount of sebum produced by the scalp with the active ingredient.
3.7.3. Sebum Production on Scalp by Sebufix®
We went further by studying the link between
Cutibacterium modulation by the active ingredient and the scalp sebum quantity. After 28 days of shampoo application, placebo shampoo decreased the sebum by −25% in comparison with D0 as shown in
Figure 9, while shampoo containing 0.5% of
Pogostemon cablin extract slightly increases it by +9%. In addition, we observed a significant improvement of sebum production with our active shampoo showing an increase of +34% in comparison with the effect of placebo shampoo.
These effects were also confirmed by illustrative pictures showing the lipid droplets caused by sebum on Sebufix®. Indeed, an increase in lipid droplets was observed after 28 days of active shampoo application while the placebo decreases them as observed by the distribution of dark spots in the illustrative pictures.
Altogether, our results confirmed a clear link between the relative abundance of
Cutibacterium on the scalp and sebum production by the skin. Here, we showed that the application of a shampoo containing 0.5%
Pogostemon cablin extract started sebum production by the scalp that promoted the proliferation of
Cutibacterium as described by Mukherjee et al. [
12]. As we know,
Cutibacterium is described to be a stimulator of sebum production through the SCFAs release [
28]. Thanks to the activation of sebum production by our active ingredient, it provides an optimal support for
Cutibacterium proliferation on the scalp. We can assume that sebum production by dry scalp will be self-sustaining due to the capacity of
Cutibacterium to produce SCFAs until the following
Pogostemon cablin extract application. These observations suggest, for the first time, the potential existence of a virtuous circle between sebum production which enhances
Cutibacterium proliferation and
Cutibacterium which maintains the sebum production thanks to SCFAs release. Finally, these results also clearly indicated that the active ingredient improved dry scalp for a better scalp condition compared to normal scalp.
3.8. Clinical Improvement of Emotions through Microbiota Balancing
A third clinical study was performed with a lotion containing 0.5% of Pogostemon cablin extract versus a placebo lotion and the efficacy of the active ingredient was evaluated in leave-on application on volunteers presenting dry scalp, itching, scalp discomfort and white flakes. Volunteers applied the hair lotion twice daily for 28 days, white flakes were analyzed by scoring and volunteers’ emotions were evaluated by prosody analysis, the picture selection method and non-verbal communication.
The aim of this clinical study was to observe if the improvement of scalp microbiota composition and the upregulation of sebum production could lead to an improvement of volunteers’ emotions, similarly to the short-chain fatty acids that act as metabolic substrates on microglia that are able to regulate emotions [
4,
5,
6].
3.8.1. White Flakes Scoring
After 28 days of application with hair lotion containing 0.5%
Pogostemon cablin extract, a significant reduction of white flakes (−21%) was observed in comparison with D0. The application of the placebo formula in the same condition for 28 days showed a slight increase of white flakes (+10%) in comparison with D0. The comparison between the active ingredient and placebo lotion showed a significant reduction of white flakes (−31%) with active lotion in comparison with placebo lotion after 28 days of application (
Figure 10). These results demonstrated the strong efficacy of
Pogostemon cablin extract even in leave-on applications on the reduction of white flakes from dry and itching scalp.
3.8.2. Emotions Evaluation
An emotional evaluation was performed using various neuroscience methods such as prosody, the picture selection method and non-verbal communication. Indeed, the hypothesis that people who present dry scalp with itching and excessive white flakes would be emotionally affected was presented. We supposed that having a dry and itching scalp can be related to negative mood and have an impact on self-esteem, as it has been demonstrated for people suffering from skin sensitivity [
31].
Prosody Analysis
To analyze prosody, subjects were asked to verbalize about the state of their scalp at D0 and after 28 days of application of hair lotion. The variation in pitch and tonality after 28 days was compared with D0 to study the emotional response after the application of products.
After 28 days of application, active lotion increased the frequency and amplitude more than with placebo lotion. In addition, the active lotion demonstrated a significant increase of vocal frequency and amplitude in comparison with placebo, by +15.4% and + 12.4%, respectively (
Figure 11).
An increase in vocal frequency and amplitude in this context suggest that volunteers who applied active lotion felt more positive emotions than those applied placebo lotion. We can conclude that Pogostemon cablin extract in lotion was able to significantly improve emotional response after 28 days of application as observed by prosody evaluation.
To complete this analysis, the emotional distribution considering stimulating/unstimulating and pleasant/unpleasant emotions scale was analyzed. After 28 days of active lotion application, volunteers triggered stimulating and pleasant emotions while the placebo lotion triggered neutral emotions as shown by its location in the center of emotional valence (
Figure 12A). This representation confirms that
Pogostemon cablin triggered positive emotions contrary to placebo lotion.
Finally, the percentage of volunteers who have triggered negative and positive emotions for both groups was analyzed. Results demonstrated that volunteers who applied active lotion triggered 80% of positive emotions and 20% negatives. In contrast, volunteers who applied placebo lotion have triggered only 33% of positive emotions and 66% negatives (
Figure 12B). Thereby, this analysis reinforces that
Pogostemon cablin extract was able to provide positive emotions for 28 days of applications.
Non-Verbal Communication
The non-verbal communication after active and placebo lotions application for 28 days was analyzed. This method used a unique grid to analyze over 200 non-verbal reactions (facial reactions, postures, gestures, voice), and remove all verbalization barriers. After 28 days of active lotion application, 19 positives emotions and only four negatives emotions were triggered. In contrast, the volunteers who applied placebo lotion presented inverse emotional response with 14 negatives emotions and only two positives emotions after 28 days (
Figure 13). These results demonstrated that
Pogostemon cablin extract was able to deliver a positive emotional response in comparison with the placebo lotion. Interestingly, a statistical analysis of the emotional distribution between both products and our results showed that the distribution of emotions is statistically different, demonstrating that
Pogostemon cablin extract significantly improves emotional response in comparison with the placebo.
This method also allowed for identifying the type of emotions expressed after product application. Indeed, volunteers who applied active lotion delivered positive emotions including comfort, care and happiness while volunteers who applied placebo lotion expressed more negative emotions such as annoyance.
Picture Selection Method
This method showed that participants from both groups felt very negative, and significantly not happy, when thinking about their scalp before they started the clinical trial (
Figure 14A). This result was consistent with the observation obtained with the two previous methods and also shows the homogeneity of emotions between the two groups.
After 28 days of lotion application, volunteers who applied the active lotion felt significantly less negative and significantly more refreshed. However, volunteers who applied the placebo lotion did not feel as negative about their scalp at day 28, but did not express positive emotions either. The results for the placebo group are neutral and reflect the placebo effect (
Figure 14A).
This effect can be also visible through the list of images selected by volunteers. When volunteers thought about their scalp condition at D0, they illustrated it with images having negative and non-happy connotations (
Figure 14B). After 28 days of active lotion application, there was a strong decrease in negative images associated with new images with refreshing and self-confidence connotations. The group who applied placebo lotion did not show the same efficacy as shown by the list of selected images which are mainly still negative.
This third method proved that Pogostemon cablin extract delivered positive emotional response after 28 days of application on volunteers who have dry itching scalp with white flakes. This mood improvement was correlated to a significant reduction in white flakes as previously demonstrated.
By using three complementary methodologies based on neuroscience, we answered our hypothesis that people suffering from scalp dryness were emotionally affected. This result was consistent with psycho-dermatology studies which showed that people suffering from unpleasant experiences such as dry or sensitive skin, and with an unsightly skin disorder were more prone to depression, anxiety and many other negative feelings [
23,
24]. Still, with these neuroscience methodologies, we showed that the application of
Pogostemon cablin extract, which biologically improved the skin barrier and sebum production until reducing the amount of white flakes on the scalp, led to a clear improvement of volunteers’ mood through the expression of positive emotions. Observing these results, two hypotheses can be presented: the first is that this mood improvement is directly linked to the biological efficacy of the product, from gene expression until a reduction of keratinocytes migration, a reduction in
stratum corneum thickness, a restauration of barrier function and sebum production, leading to a rebalancing of scalp sebum and reduction in the production of white flakes. Following this hypothesis, volunteers feel better just by not seeing the unsightly issue of white flakes anymore. The second is that
Pogostemon cablin extract, in addition to having biological benefits, is able to rebalance the scalp microbiota composition and sebum production, bringing it closer to a ‘normal’ scalp [
12,
13]. Indeed, the reactivation of sebum production creates an enabling environment for
Cutibacterium acnes, but this bacterium is also known to produce SCFAs that are already described to positively affect the mood when they are ingested [
4,
5,
6,
12]. If the thread of this hypothesis is drawn, we could imagine that the rebalancing of microbiota composition could participate in the maintenance of scalp sebum production but, even more, to the improvement of volunteers’ emotions.
4. Conclusions
In this study, we presented the hypothesis that psychobiotics, which are molecules having a positive impact on the microbiota bringing benefits to the mental health, can also be topically applied on the skin, due to the similarity between the gut-brain axis and the skin-brain axis.
An active ingredient extracted from Pogostemon cablin leaves that is rich in oligosaccharides was evaluated and exhibited interesting biological properties to reduce the production of dry flakes, such as the inhibition of keratinocytes migration that limits the stratum corneum thickening, and the restoration of filaggrin and caspase 14 expression leading to a rise in the production of NMFs. At the clinical level, the application of the plant extract normalized the sebum level of the skin and the scalp microbiota composition to one closer to a ‘normal’ scalp condition, with an increase in the relative abundance of Staphylococcus and Cutibacterium. These two bacteria are able to produce SFCAs that are essential for the maintenance of the lipid barrier, cell host metabolism and immune system homeostasis. Moreover, Pogostemon cablin leaf extract is rich in oligosaccharides that are described to stimulate the production of SCFAs. Knowing that and observing our result with a critical view, we can hypothesize that the active ingredient stimulated sebum production by the skin that led to an enrichment of the relative abundance of Cutibacterium, creating a virtuous circle through potential SCFAs production by Cutibacterium.
Very interestingly, the normalization of the scalp microbiota composition was associated with a normalization of the skin barrier sebum production and also with a recovery of a normal keratinocyte differentiation level. Regarding the proven effects of SFCAs produced by the gut bacteria to regulate the host cellular metabolism and differentiation and the integrity of the epithelial barrier through the production of mucus, we can hypothesize a similar regulation of skin homeostasis by the skin microbiota acting on both sebum production and keratinocytes differentiation through potential SCFAs release.
The SCFAs are also described to be involved in the differentiation, maturation, genetic regulation and metabolism of microglia that are immune cells acting directly on the mood. Here, an improvement of the mood of volunteers in decreasing dry flakes and in increasing the proportions of bacteria producing SCFAs was demonstrated. We can then hypothesize that the normalization of the scalp microbiota drives the improvement of the mood, and then conferred to the plant extract a psychobiotics effect. As prospects of this study, characterizing the SCFAs production by microorganisms in situ would allow us to answer this hypothesis.