Nonoperative Treatment of Finger Flexor Tenosynovitis in Sport Climbers—A Retrospective Descriptive Study Based on a Clinical 10-Year Database
Abstract
:Simple Summary
Abstract
1. Introduction
2. Materials and Methods
2.1. Study Design and Participants
2.2. Clinical and Radiographical Diagnosis
2.3. Treatment Algorithm
2.4. Follow-Up Questionnaire
2.5. Radiographic Analysis
2.6. Statistical Analysis
3. Results
3.1. Baseline Characteristics
3.2. Injury Characteristics, Perceived Injury Triggers and Training Attitudes
3.3. Content and Outcome of Therapy
4. Discussion
4.1. Injury Characteristics and Etiology
4.2. Treatment and Outcome
4.3. Limitations
5. Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Institutional Review Board Statement
Informed Consent Statement
Data Availability Statement
Conflicts of Interest
References
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Climbing Group | IRCRA | YDS | French/Sport | UIAA | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lower Grade (Level 1) Male and Female | 1 | 5.1 | 1 | I | |
2 | 5.2 | 2 | II | ||
3 | 5.3 | 2+ | III/III+ | ||
4 | 5.4 | 3- | III+/IV | ||
5 | 5.5 | 3 | IV/IV+ | ||
6 | 5.6 | 3+ | IV/V- | ||
7 | 5.7 | 4 | V-/V | ||
8 | 5.8 | 4+ | V+ | ||
9 | 5.9 | 5 | VI- | ||
Intermediate (Level 2) Male | Intermediate (Level 2) Female | 10 | 5.10a | 5+ | VI |
11 | 5.10b | 6a | VI+ | ||
12 | 5.10c | 6a+ | VII- | ||
13 | 5.10d | 6b | VII-/VII | ||
14 | 5.11a | 6b+ | VII/VII+ | ||
Advanced (Level 3) Female | 15 | 5.11b | 6c | VII+/VIII- | |
16 | 5.11c | 6c+ | VIII- | ||
17 | 5.11d | 7a | VIII | ||
Advanced (Level 3) Male | 18 | 5.12a | 7a+ | VIII/VIII+ | |
19 | 5.12b | 7b | VIII+/IX- | ||
20 | 5.12c | 7b+ | IX-/IX | ||
Elite (Level 4) Female | 21 | 5.12d | 7c | IX | |
22 | 5.13a | 7c+ | IX+ | ||
23 | 5.13b | 8a | IX+/X- | ||
Elite (Level 4) Male | 24 | 5.13c | 8a+ | X-/X | |
25 | 5.13d | 8b | X/X+ | ||
26 | 5.14a | 8b+ | X+ | ||
Higher Elite (Level 5) Female | 27 | 5.14b | 8c | XI- | |
Higher Elite (Level 5) Male | 28 | 5.14c | 8c+ | XI-/XI | |
29 | 5.14d | 9a | XI/XI+ | ||
30 | 5.15a | 9a+ | XI+/XII- | ||
31 | 5.15b | 9b | XII- | ||
32 | 5.15c | 9b+ | XII |
Overall (N = 65) | Female (N = 16) | Male (N = 49) | |
---|---|---|---|
age [year] | 34.1 (32.0, 36.2) | 33.3 (28.9, 37.7) | 34.4 (32.0, 36.8) |
climbing years before therapy [year] | 11.1 (8.9, 13.2) c | 7.7 (4.4, 11.0) b | 12.1 (9.5, 14.7) b |
average pulley thickness [cm] | 1.06 (0.95, 1.17) h | 0.97 (0.70, 1.25) d | 1.08 (0.92, 1.25) g |
climbing level higher than 7b (redpoint) [%] | 63.1 a | 56.3 a | 65.3 a |
pain intensity during climbing before therapy [VAS] | 5.9 (5.4, 6.4) f | 6.1 (4.9, 7.4) b | 5.8 (5.1, 6.5) e |
pain intensity in daily life before therapy [VAS] | 3.1 (2.7, 3.5) f | 3.9 (2.7, 5.1) b | 2.8 (2.3, 3.3) e |
Hands | |
dominant hand affected [%] | 50.8 |
nondominant hand affected [%] | 60.0 |
Digit | |
digit III affected [%] | 58.5 |
digit IV affected [%] | 55.4 |
digit V affected [%] | 1.5 |
Pulley | |
A2 pulley affected [%] | 84.6 |
A4 pulley affected [%] | 23.1 |
multiple pulleys affected [%] | 27.7 |
Perceived Injury Triggers | |
hard and intensive training [%] | 63.1 |
extensive crimping [%] | 30.8 |
extensive use of pockets [%] | 6.2 |
foot slipped off [%] | 13.8 |
repeated attempts of a hard and/or dynamic single pull [%] | 41.5 |
other [%] | 16.9 |
Training Attitudes | |
regular warm-up [%] | 41.5 |
training on campus board [%] | 32.3 |
training on hang board [%] | 43.1 |
specific training on small holds [%] | 33.8 |
more than 3 training and/or climbing sessions per week [%] | 30.8 |
dynamo training [%] | 20.0 |
Therapy Content | |
modelling clay [%] | 75.4 |
compression fingerling [%] | 35.4 |
finger stretching [%] | 32.3 |
ergotherapy [%] | 12.3 |
medication [%] | 13.8 |
taping [%] | 64.6 |
climbing-related load reduction [%] | 90.8 |
Therapy Outcome | |
symptom duration [weeks] | 30.5 (24.3, 36.8) a,b |
before/after therapy ratio in pain intensity during climbing [VAS/VAS] | 0.62 (0.55, 0.68) a,c |
Model Parameter | Dependent Variable | Predictor | B | SEB | β Weight | p Value a |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Model 1 b F = 6.613, p = 0.014, Adjusted R2 = 0.120, Cohen f2 = 0.140 n = 42 | before/after therapy ratio in pain intensity during climbing [VAS/VAS] | pain intensity in daily life before therapy [VAS] | 0.060 | 0.023 | 0.377 | 0.014 * |
excluded variables by stepwise method | ||||||
climbing years before therapy [year] | - | - | - | 0.769 | ||
average pulley thickness [cm] | - | - | - | 0.296 | ||
climbing level higher than 7b (redpoint) [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.247 | ||
pain intensity during climbing before therapy [VAS] | - | - | - | 0.057 | ||
therapy content: modelling clay [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.315 | ||
therapy content: compression fingerling [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.702 | ||
therapy content: finger stretching [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.781 | ||
therapy content: ergotherapy [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.822 | ||
therapy content: medication [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.987 | ||
therapy content: taping [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.286 | ||
therapy content: climbing-related load reduction [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.846 | ||
Model 2 b F = 4.642, p = 0.037, Adjusted R2 = 0.082, Cohen f2 = 0.089 n = 42 | symptom duration [weeks] | climbing level higher than 7b (redpoint) [0;1] | −15.821 | 7.343 | −0.332 | 0.037 * |
excluded variables by stepwise method | ||||||
climbing years before therapy [year] | - | - | - | 0.906 | ||
average pulley thickness [cm] | - | - | - | 0.447 | ||
pain intensity during climbing before therapy [VAS] | - | - | - | 0.206 | ||
pain intensity in daily life before therapy [VAS] | - | - | - | 0.282 | ||
therapy content: modelling clay [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.144 | ||
therapy content: compression fingerling [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.244 | ||
therapy content: finger stretching [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.580 | ||
therapy content: ergotherapy [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.168 | ||
therapy content: medication [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.904 | ||
therapy content: taping [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.176 | ||
therapy content: climbing-related load reduction [0;1] | - | - | - | 0.301 |
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Mohn, S.; Spörri, J.; Mauler, F.; Kabelitz, M.; Schweizer, A. Nonoperative Treatment of Finger Flexor Tenosynovitis in Sport Climbers—A Retrospective Descriptive Study Based on a Clinical 10-Year Database. Biology 2022, 11, 815. https://doi.org/10.3390/biology11060815
Mohn S, Spörri J, Mauler F, Kabelitz M, Schweizer A. Nonoperative Treatment of Finger Flexor Tenosynovitis in Sport Climbers—A Retrospective Descriptive Study Based on a Clinical 10-Year Database. Biology. 2022; 11(6):815. https://doi.org/10.3390/biology11060815
Chicago/Turabian StyleMohn, Sabrina, Jörg Spörri, Flavien Mauler, Method Kabelitz, and Andreas Schweizer. 2022. "Nonoperative Treatment of Finger Flexor Tenosynovitis in Sport Climbers—A Retrospective Descriptive Study Based on a Clinical 10-Year Database" Biology 11, no. 6: 815. https://doi.org/10.3390/biology11060815
APA StyleMohn, S., Spörri, J., Mauler, F., Kabelitz, M., & Schweizer, A. (2022). Nonoperative Treatment of Finger Flexor Tenosynovitis in Sport Climbers—A Retrospective Descriptive Study Based on a Clinical 10-Year Database. Biology, 11(6), 815. https://doi.org/10.3390/biology11060815