A Systematic Review of Reimagining Fashion and Textiles Sustainability with AI: A Circular Economy Approach
Abstract
:Featured Application
Abstract
1. Introduction
2. Materials and Methods
2.1. Aim
2.2. Eligibility Criteria
2.2.1. Inclusion Criteria
- Research focus: identification and analysis of physical or visual indicators of garment aging, such as color fading, pilling, surface abrasion, and seam damage;
- Garments defect detection: detection of quality defects in finished textile products, including common issues like stains and stitching weaknesses using AI-driven methods or computer vision;
- Textile sorting: examination of AI techniques applied to the sorting of textiles in both pre-consumer (manufacturing waste) and post-consumer (used clothing) stages;
- Sustainability and recycling: automated textile sorting systems aimed at improving sustainability and recycling practices through AI;
- Dataset introduction: research articles introducing new datasets for second-hand clothing or damaged garments;
- Publication quality: inclusion of only peer-reviewed journal articles, conference papers, and technical reports from reputable sources (research centers) in textile technology, AI applications, or sustainability-focused research;
- Studies published between 2016 and 2024 were included to ensure the review reflects the most current trends, methods, and findings relevant to the topic;
- Language: only studies written in English were included in this review;
- Full text accessibility: only studies with the full text accessible were included, allowing for a thorough evaluation of the methodology, results, and relevance of each study.
2.2.2. Exclusion Criteria
- Non-textile sorting: AI-based waste sorting techniques not specifically targeted at textile or garment sorting;
- Hardware development: studies focused on hardware development or engineering specific to textile waste sorting;
- Binary classification models: papers utilizing only binary classification models (e.g., defect/no defect) without specifying or categorizing the types of garment defects;
- Production stage defects: research applying AI for detecting defects at the textile production stage unrelated to finished, wearable garments;
- Production-focused metrics: studies using AI to predict production-focused quality metrics without direct implications for garment aging, wearability, or consumer use;
- Language: articles written in languages other than English were excluded;
- Review papers: review articles were excluded from the analysis to focus solely on original research;
- Studies published before 2016 or after 2024 were excluded to maintain a focused and contemporary literature scope.
2.3. Information Sources
2.4. Search Strategy
2.5. Selection Process
2.6. Data Collection Process
2.7. Data Items
- Aim of the work;
- Technique used;
- Country of the article;
- All relevant information about dataset:
- Accessibility: public or not;
- Source: created or existing;
- Size: number of images;
- Image information: imaging method and image size;
- Textile type: size of swatch or garment captured in images;
- Publication year;
- Article type.
2.8. Synthesis Methods
2.9. Risk of Bias
3. Results
4. AI Applications and Their Impact
4.1. Garment Defect Detection
4.1.1. Fabric Pilling Detection
4.1.2. Stitching Defect Detection
4.1.3. General Garment Defects
4.2. Textile Sorting and Recycling
4.2.1. Recycling-Oriented Sorting
4.2.2. Garment Categorization for Reuse
5. Assessing Dataset Availability and Practicality
5.1. Fabric Pilling Detection Datasets
5.2. Sorting Datasets
5.3. Fabric Defect Detection
5.4. Stitching Defect Detection
6. Societal and Economic Impacts
6.1. Second-Hand Markets
6.2. NGO and Charitable Initiatives
6.3. Increased Efficiency
6.4. Enhancing Circular Economy Practices
7. Challenges and Limitations
7.1. Dataset Availability and Quality
7.1.1. Textile Characterization
7.1.2. Textile Identification
7.2. Computational Demand
7.3. Environmental Variability
7.4. Model Complexity
7.5. Generalizability
7.6. Image Variety
8. Future Direction
9. Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
Abbreviations
AI | Artificial intelligence |
CE | Circular economy |
CNNs | Convolutional neural networks |
CV | Computer vision |
DL | Deep learning |
ML | Machine learning |
SLR | Systematic literature review |
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Keywords | “Post-consumer textile sorting” OR “Pre-consumer textile sorting” OR “Textile sorting” OR “fabric defects detection” OR “Garments defect detection” OR “Damage Detection in Circular Fashion” AND “Artificial Intelligence” OR “Computer vision” OR “Automatic” OR “Deep learning” OR “AI” OR “Machine learning” OR “Expert systems” | ||
Timespan/Filter | 2016–2024 | ||
Search systems | Google Scholar, Springer, ScienceDirect, IEEE, Taylor and Francis, Sage Journals | ||
Criteria | Sources | No. of exclusion | No. of inclusion |
Article type | Journal articles | 61 | 37 |
Conference papers | 25 | 10 | |
Master’s/doctorate thesis | 0 | 2 | |
Language | English | 0 | 49 |
Domain | Risk of Bias Judgement | Rationale for Concern |
---|---|---|
1. Concerns regarding specification of study eligibility criteria | Low | This review clearly outlined pre-specified inclusion and exclusion criteria that were well-aligned with the review objectives. |
2. Concerns regarding methods used to identify and/or select studies | Low | The search strategy was systematic and involved multiple reputable databases, ensuring broad coverage of relevant literature. The process for both screening titles and abstracts and assessing full-text papers included multiple reviewers, reducing the likelihood of selection bias. |
3. Concerns regarding collecting data and appraise studies | Low | Data extraction was conducted systematically using a structured form that ensured consistency across studies. Key methodological and technical characteristics were captured in detail. All articles were assessed independently by a minimum of two reviewers, and appropriate data were abstracted independently, minimizing the potential for bias and error. |
4. Concerns regarding the synthesis and findings | Low | The findings were systematically synthesized according to the application domains—textile sorting, garment defect detection, and piling identification. This structure allowed for the identification of key trends, commonly used methods, and differences across each area. Limitations of individual studies, such as limited dataset availability, lack of image diversity, restricted real-world validation, and model complexity, were explicitly acknowledged and discussed. |
Paper | Year | Study Focus | Technique | No: Images | Dataset Type | Dataset Source | Fabric/Fiber Type |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
[10] | 2021 | Textile material recognition | NIR | 253 | fabric (section) | created | Cotton, polyester, viscose, and blended |
[13] | 2024 | Garments type classification | CNN | 26,833 | garment (full) | created | 11 garment categories, e.g., shirt, jacket, etc. |
[14] | 2021 | Recycled clothing classification | Alex Net | 3300 | garment (full) | existing | 9 garments categories |
[15] | 2023 | Automated color sorting of multi-colored waste textiles | Object detection and decision tree | 277 | garment (full) | created | Not given |
[16] | 2016 | Textile material classification | SIMCA, SVM, and ELM | 120 | fabric (section) | created | Natural and synthetic |
[17] | 2020 | Natural vs. synthetic fiber identification | PCA, CVA, and k-NN | 350 | fabric (section) | created | Cotton, linen, wool, silk, viscose, polyamide, and synthetic fiber |
[18] | 2021 | Textile material recognition | Neural network | 892 | fabric (swatch) | created | Polyester, cotton, wool, viscose, nylon, silk, acrylic, and blended |
[19] | 2022 | Identification of textile fibers | CNN vs. (KNN and SVM) | 600,404 | yarn (detail) | created | 25 textile fiber types |
[20] | 2023 | Classification of fabric material | Supervised classification | 104 | multiple | created | Cotton, polyester, wool, silk, and viscose. |
[21] | 2024 | Fabric identification | Deep learning | 840 | multiple | created | 14 types of fabric |
[22] | 2023 | Multi-classification of textile waste | Hybrid CNN-LSTM | 10,000 | fabric (section) | mixed | Not given |
[23] | 2020 | Classification of textile waste | CNNs | 263 | fabric (swatch) | created | Polyester, wool, cotton, nylon, and blended |
[24] | 2022 | Classification of fabric material | CNNs | 370 | fabric (unspecified) | created | Cotton, linen, wool, silk, polyester, polyamide, and viscose |
[25] | 2023 | Identification of textile materials | AONet | 7000 | fabric (microscopic) | existing | Cotton, denim, linen, nylon, and silk |
[26] | 2022 | Textiles material Recognition | CNN | 2764 | fabric (draped) | created | Polyester, cotton, wool, silk, viscose, nylon, acrylic, and blended |
[27] | 2023 | Cotton percentage prediction in fabric | CNN | 7000 | fabric (swatch) | existing | Fabric with cotton percentage in it |
[28] | 2022 | Color classification of waste textiles | CV | 2,100,466 | fabric (draped) | created | Not given |
Paper | Year | Study Focus | Technique | No: Images | Dataset Availability | Dataset Type | Dataset Source |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
[29] | 2023 | Fabric defect detection | YOLOv5 | 647 | public | garment (full) | created |
[30] | 2023 | Garment defect detection | CNN | 800 | private | garment (detail) | created |
[31] | 2024 | Fabric defect detection | YOLOv8 | 2800 | public | fabric (swatch) | existing |
[32] | 2024 | Fabric defect detection | GSL-YOLOv8n | 6345 | public | fabric (swatch) | existing |
[33] | 2022 | Garment inspection | Image processing | 174 | private | garment (full) | created |
[34] | 2024 | Zipper tapes defect detection | CNN and YOLOv5 | 1200 | private | trims (detail) | existing |
[35] | 2023 | Clothing inspection for visually impaired | CNN | 11,604 | public | garment (full) | mixed |
[36] | 2023 | Garments defect detection | YOLO-SCD | 7021 | public | fabric (swatch) | existing |
[37] | 2024 | Fabric sewing break detection | U-Net Network | 1000 | private | garment (detail) | created |
[38] | 2022 | Broken stitch detection | CNN | 28 | private | garment (detail) | created |
[39] | 2021 | Zipper tape defect detection | CNN | 11,201 | private | trims (detail) | created |
[40] | 2024 | Garments damage detection | CV | 16,066 | public | garment (full) | created |
[41] | 2023 | Garments defect detection | YOLOv5 | 3161 | private | garment (detail) | created |
[42] | 2022 | Sewing stitch detection | DeepLabV3+ EfficientNet | 900 | private | garment (detail) | created |
[43] | 2020 | Fabric defect detection | DeepLabV3+ and Efficient Net | 98,777 | public | fabric (swatch) | created |
[44] | 2024 | Fabric defect detection | DL and SVM | 3375 | public | multiple | created |
[45] | 2020 | Fabric defect detection | LSTM-CNN | 12,000 | public | fabric (swatch) | existing |
[46] | 2023 | Fabric defect detection | LSTM-CNN | 4100 | private | fabric (swatch) | created |
[47] | 2019 | Fabric defect detection | YOLO and CNN | 245 | public | fabric (swatch) | created |
[48] | 2024 | Fabric defect detection | NN and SVM | 1300 | public | fabric (swatch) | created |
Paper | Year | Study Focus | Technique | No: Images | Dataset Type | Dataset Source | Fabric/Fiber Type |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
[49] | 2021 | Pilling assessment | CNN | 25,876 | fabric (swatch) | created | Woolen knitted |
[50] | 2019 | Pilling classification | PCA and NN | 1920 | fabric (swatch) | existing | Knitted |
[51] | 2023 | Pilling assessment | LSNet | 42,304 | fabric (swatch) | created | Woven, knitted, and nonwoven |
[52] | 2022 | Pilling assessment | SONet | 64,109 | fabric (swatch) | created | Knitted, nonwoven fabric |
[53] | 2022 | Pilling classification | Deep learning Net | 320 | fabric (swatch) | created | Knitted |
[54] | 2023 | Pilling area segmentation | U-Net network | 1000 | fabric (swatch) | created | Not given |
[55] | 2020 | Pilling detection | Cellular NN | 400 | fabric (swatch) | unclear | Cotton, hemp, and wool |
[56] | 2023 | Pilling assessment | Saliency-based CNN | 1650 | fabric (swatch) | mixed | Woven fabrics |
[57] | 2022 | Fiber flaw detection | CNN | 5268 | other | created | Not given |
[58] | 2024 | Pilling assessment | UNet network | 153 | fabric (swatch) | created | Varying fiber contents, tissue structures, and colors |
[59] | 2020 | Fabric smoothness appearance assessment | CNN | 4620 | fabric (section) | created | Not given |
[60] | 2021 | Fabric surface assessment | Deep learning | 7000 | fabric (microscopic) | created | Not given |
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Nisa, H.; Van Amber, R.; English, J.; Islam, S.; McCorkill, G.; Alavi, A. A Systematic Review of Reimagining Fashion and Textiles Sustainability with AI: A Circular Economy Approach. Appl. Sci. 2025, 15, 5691. https://doi.org/10.3390/app15105691
Nisa H, Van Amber R, English J, Islam S, McCorkill G, Alavi A. A Systematic Review of Reimagining Fashion and Textiles Sustainability with AI: A Circular Economy Approach. Applied Sciences. 2025; 15(10):5691. https://doi.org/10.3390/app15105691
Chicago/Turabian StyleNisa, Hiqmat, Rebecca Van Amber, Julia English, Saniyat Islam, Georgia McCorkill, and Azadeh Alavi. 2025. "A Systematic Review of Reimagining Fashion and Textiles Sustainability with AI: A Circular Economy Approach" Applied Sciences 15, no. 10: 5691. https://doi.org/10.3390/app15105691
APA StyleNisa, H., Van Amber, R., English, J., Islam, S., McCorkill, G., & Alavi, A. (2025). A Systematic Review of Reimagining Fashion and Textiles Sustainability with AI: A Circular Economy Approach. Applied Sciences, 15(10), 5691. https://doi.org/10.3390/app15105691