Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges
Abstract
:1. Introduction
1.1. Synthetic Versus Natural Ingredients in Cosmetic Industry
1.2. Current Applications of Algae-Derived Metabolites in Cosmeceutical Industrial
1.3. UV Radiation and Skin-Related Diseases
2. Methods
3. Marine Algae-Derived Compounds in Cosmeceutical Application
3.1. Anti-Aging Activity
3.1.1. Photo-Protectivity and Antioxidant Activities
3.1.2. MMP Inhibition and Prevention of Collagen Degradation
3.1.3. Anti-Inflammatory Activity
3.2. Anti-Melanogenic Activity
3.3. Anticancer Activity
3.4. Antimicrobial Activity
4. Challenges of Algae in Cosmeceuticals
4.1. Biomass Culturing Techniques
4.2. Biometabolites Extraction Methods
4.2.1. Enzyme-Assisted Extraction (EAE)
4.2.2. Microwave-Assisted Extraction (MAE)
4.2.3. Supercritical Fluid Extraction (SFE)
4.2.4. Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction (UAE)
4.3. Quality Assurance and Regulations
5. Conclusions and Future Studies
Author Contributions
Funding
Conflicts of Interest
References
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Algae Species | Bioactive Compound/Extract | Beneficial Activity | Mechanism of Action | Experimental Model | Reference |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Brown algae | |||||
Ascophyllum nodosum | Ascophyllan | Anticancer | Inhibit MMP expression | B16 melanoma cells | [54] |
Bifurcaria bifurcata | Eleganonal | Antioxidant | DPPH inhibition | In vitro | [55] |
Chnoospora implexa | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus pyogenes | [56] |
Chnoospora minima | Fucoidan | Anti-inflammation | Inhibition of LPS-induced NO production, iNOS, COX-2, and PGE2 levels | RAW macrophages | [47] |
Cladosiphon okamuranus | Fucoxanthin | Antioxidant | DPPH inhibition | In vitro | [49] |
Colpomenia sinuosa | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. aureus, S. pyogenes | [56] |
Cystoseira barbata | Fat-soluble vitamin and carotenoids | Antioxidant | High fat-soluble vitamin and carotenoid content | In vitro | [57] |
Cystoseira foeniculacea | Polyphenol | Antioxidant | DPPH inhibition (EC50 = 5.27 mg/mL) | In vitro | [58] |
Cystoseira hakodatensis | Phenol and fucoxanthin | Antioxidant | High total phenolic and fucoxanthin content | In vitro | [59] |
Cystoseira osmundacea | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. pyogenes | [56] |
Dictyopteris delicatula | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. aureus, S. pyogenes | [56] |
Dictyota dichotoma | Algae extract | Antimicrobial | Inhibit the synthesis of the peptidoglycan layer of bacterial cell walls | Penicillium purpurescens, Candida albicans, Aspergillus flavus | [60] |
Ecklonia cava | Dieckol | Anti-inflammation | Suppression of iNOS and COX-2 | Murine BV2 microglia | [61] |
Phlorotannin | Anti-melanogenic | Inhibit melanin production | B16F10 melanoma cells | [44] | |
Phlorotannin | Antioxidant | ROS scavenging potential | Chinese hamster lung fibroblast (V79-4) | [62] | |
Ecklonia kurome | Phlorotannin | Anti-inflammation | Inhibit hyaluronidase | Assay of HAase (In vitro) | [42] |
Ecklonia Stolonifera | Phlorotannin | Anti-aging | Inhibit MMP expression | Human dermal fibroblast cell | [43] |
Phlorofucofuroeckol A and B | Anti-inflammation | Inhibition of NO production by downregulating iNOS and prostaglandin E2 | LPS stimulated RAW 264.7 cells | [63] | |
Eisenia arborea | Phlorotannin | Anti-inflammation | Inhibit release of histamine | Rat basophile leukemia cells (RBL-2HE) | [64] |
Eisenia bicyclis | Phlorotannin | Anti-inflammation | Inhibit hyaluronidase | Assay of HAase (In vitro) | [42] |
Fucus evanescens | Fucoidan | Anticancer | Inhibit cell proliferation | Human malignant melanoma cells | [45] |
Fucus vesiculosus | Extract | Anti-aging | Stimulate collagen production | N/A | [8] |
Fucoidan | Anti-melanogenic | Inhibit tyrosinase and melanin | B16 murine melanoma cells | [46] | |
Fucoidan | Anticancer | Decrease melanoma growth | Mice | [65] | |
Fucoxanthin | Antioxidant | Prevent oxidation formation | In vitro, RAW 264.7 macrophage, Mouse (ex vivo) | [66] | |
Halopteris scoparia | Ethanol extract | Anti-inflammation | COX-2 inhibition | COX inhibitory screening assay kit | [67] |
Himanthalia elongota | Fatty acid andPhenol | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus | [68] |
Hizikia fusiformis | Fucosterol | Anti-aging | Inhibit MMP expression | Human dermal fibroblast | [18] |
Ethyl acetate extract | Anti-melanogenic | Inhibit tyrosinase and melanin | B16F10 mouse melanoma cells | [69] | |
Fucoxanthin | Antioxidant | DPPH inhibition | In vitro | [70] | |
Hydroclathrus clathratus | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. aureus, S. pyogenes | [56] |
Ishige foliacea | Phlorotannin | Anti-melanogenic | Downregulation of tyrosinase and melanin synthesis | B16F10 cells Zebrafish embryo | [71,72] |
Ishige okamurae | Diphlorethohydroxycarmalol | Anti-inflammation | Down-regulation of iNOS and COX-2 expression and NF-κβ activation | Human umbilical vein endothelial cells | [73] |
Laminaria japonica | Fucoxanthin | Anti-melanogenic | Suppress tyrosinase activity | UVB- irradiated guinea pig | [48] |
Laminaria ochroleuca | Polyphenol | Antioxidant | High total phenolic content and antioxidant capacity | In vitro | [74] |
Macrocystis pyrifera | Phlorotannin | Antioxidant | ROS scavenging potential | In vitro | [8] |
Hyaluronic acid | Anti-aging | Enhance the production of syndecan-4 | N/A | [75] | |
Padina concrescens | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. aureus, S. pyogenes | [56] |
Padina pavonica | Polyphenol | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | Candida albicans and Mucor ramaniannus | [17] |
Acetone extract | Antioxidant | Free radical scavenging activity (IC50 = 691.56 µg L−1) | In vitro | [60] | |
Padina tetrastromatic | Diterpenes | Antioxidant | DPPH (IC50 = 1.73) & ABTS (IC50 = 2.01) inhibitions | In vitro | [76] |
Sulfated polysaccharide | Anti-inflammation | COX-2 and iNOS inhibitions | Paw edema in rats | [77] | |
Petalonia binghamiae | Ethanol extract | Anti-melanogenic | Inhibit tyrosinase and melanin | B16F10 murine melanoma cells | [78] |
Aqueous extract | Antioxidant Anti-inflammation | DPPH inhibition COX-2 inhibition | In vitro In vitro | [67] | |
Rosenvingea intrincata | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. aureus, S. pyogenes | [56] |
Saccharina latissima | Phenol | Antioxidant | High total phenolic content, DPPH scavenging activity and FRAP | In vitro | [79] |
Sargassum fulvellum | Fucoxanthin | Antioxidant | DPPH inhibition | In vitro | [70] |
Sargassum furcatum | Methanol extract | Antioxidant | DPPH (EC50 = 0.461) & ABTS (EC50 = 0.266) inhibitions | In vitro | [80] |
Sargassum hemiphyllum | Sulfated polysaccharide | Anti-inflammation | Inhibit LPS-induced inflammatory response | RAW 264.7 macrophage cells | [81] |
Sargassum henslowianum | Sulfated polysaccharide | Anticancer | Activation of caspase-3 | B16 melanoma cells | [82] |
Sargassum horridum | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. aureus, S. pyogenes | [56] |
Sargassum horneri | Sargachromanol.E | Anti-aging | Inhibit MMP expression | UVA irradiated dermal fibroblast | [83] |
Alginic acid | Anti-inflammation | Inhibit inflammatory response | HaCaT cells | [84] | |
Sargassum muticum | Tetraprenyltoluquinol chromane meroterpenoid | Anti-aging | ROS scavenging potential | Human dermal fibroblast | [85] |
Sargassum polycystum | Ethanol extract | Anti-melanogenic | Inhibit tyrosinase and melanin production | B16F10 melanoma cells | [39] |
Sargassum serratifolium | Sargachromenol | Anti-melanogenic | Downregulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor | B16F10 melanoma cells | [39] |
Sargassum siliquastrum | Fucoxanthin | Antioxidant | Reduced UVB-induced ROS production | Human fibroblast | [86] |
Sargassum thunbergi | Thunbergols | Antioxidant | DPPH inhibition | In vitro | [87] |
Sargassum vulgare | Methanol extract | Antioxidant | β-carotene bleaching activity | In vitro | [88] |
Stoechospermum marginatum | Spatane diterpenoids | Anticancer | Cell growth inhibition | Murine B16F10 melanoma cells | [89] |
Turbinaria conoides | Laminarin, alginate, fucoidan | Antioxidant | ROS scavenging potential | N/A | [33] |
Turbinaria ornata | Fucoxanthin | Antioxidant | High FRAP value (>10 µM/µg of extract) | In vitro | [90] |
Undaria pinnatifida | Fucoxanthin | Anti-aging | MMP expression reduction, VEGF | Mouse | [50] |
Ethyl acetate extract | Anti-melanogenic | Down regulate melanin and inhibit tyrosinase | Mouse B16 melanoma cells | [91] | |
Polyunsaturated fatty acid | Anti-inflammation | N/A | Mouse ear edema and erythema | [92] | |
Fucoxanthin | Antioxidant | DPPH inhibition | In vitro | [70] | |
Red algae | |||||
Alsidium corallinum | Methanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumoniae, Staphylococcus aureus | [93] |
Bangia | Algae extract | Antioxidant | Induce peroxidase and superoxide dismutase to reduce oxidative stress | In vitro | [94] |
Bryothamnion triquetrum | Methanol extract | Antioxidant | DPPH (EC50 = 0.357) & ABTS (EC50 = 0.370) inhibitions | In vitro | [80] |
Ceramium rubrum | Methanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | Escherichia coli, Enterococcus faecalis, Staphylococcus aureus | [93] |
Chondrocanthus acicularis | Methanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | E. coli, K. pneumoniae, E. faecalis, S. aureus | [93] |
Chondrus canaliculatus | Polysaccharide | Antioxidant | DPPH inhibition | In vitro | [95] |
Chondrus crispus | Aqueous extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | Salmonella Enteritidis | [96] |
Corallina pilulifera | Methanol extract | Anti-aging Antioxidant | Reduce the expression of gelatinase Inhibit free radical oxidation | Human dermal fibroblast Human fibrosarcoma (HT-1080) | [97] |
Corallina vancouverensis | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. aureus, S. pyogenes | [56] |
Ganonema farinosum | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. aureus, S. pyogenes | [56] |
Gelidium crinaale | Fat-soluble vitamin and carotenoids | Antioxidant | High fat-soluble vitamin and carotenoid content | In vitro | [57] |
Gelidium robustum | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. aureus, S. pyogenes | [56] |
Gracilaria gracilis | Phenol | Antioxidant | ROS scavenging potential | In vitro | [98] |
Gracilariopsis lemaneiformis | Sulfated polysaccharide | Antioxidant | DPPH, Superoxide radical assay, hydroxyl radical assay (EC50 = 2.45 mg/mL) | In vitro | [99] |
Gracilaria salicornia | 2H- chromenyl | Antioxidant Anti-inflammation | DPPH and ABTS inhibitions COX-1 inhibition | In vitro | [100] |
Jania rubens | Glycosaminoglycan | Anti-aging | Collagen synthesis | Unknown | [75] |
Laurencia caspica | Phenol Ethanol extract | Antioxidant Antimicrobial | DPPH inhibition Bacterial growth inhibition | In vitro Klebsiella pneumonia, Pseudomonas aeroginosa | [101] |
Laurencia luzonensis | Sesquiterpenes | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | Bacillus megaterium | [12] |
Laurenicia obtusa | Polysaccharide | Antioxidant | DPPH (IC50 = 24 µg/mL), FRAP (IC50 = 92 µg/mL), Hydroxyl radical scavenging activity (IC50 = 113 µg/mL) | In vitro | [102] |
Laurenicia pacifica | Laurinterol | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | Staphylococcus aureus | [9] |
Laurencia rigida | Sesquiterpenes | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | Bacillus megaterium | [12] |
Meristotheca dakarensis | Glycosaminoglycan | Anti-aging | Collagen synthesis | Unknown | [75] |
Osmundaria obtusilo | Methanol extract | Antioxidant | DPPH (EC50 = 0.041 mg/mL), ABTS (EC50 = 0.031 mg/mL), Metal chelating (EC50 = 0.1 mg/mL), folin ciocalteu (EC50 = 0.128 mg/mL) | In vitro | [80] |
Palisada flagellifera | Methanol extract | Antioxidant | β-carotene bleaching activity | In vitro | [88] |
Palmaria palmata | MAA | Anti-aging | Collagenase inhibition | Clostridium histolyticum | [53] |
Polysiphonia howei | Fucoxanthin | Antioxidant | High FRAP value (>5 µM/µg of extract) | In vitro | [90] |
Porphyra haitanensis | Sulfated Polysaccharide | Antioxidant | ROS scavenging potential | Mice | [103] |
Porphyra umbilicalis | MAA | Anti-aging | Control expression of MMP | Human dermal fibroblast | [16] |
Porphyra sp. | MAA | Anti-aging | Collagenases inhibition | Clostridium histolyticum | [53] |
Porphyra yezoensis | MAA Polyphenol Phycoerythrin | Antioxidant Anticancer Anti-inflammation | ROS scavenging potential and MMP expression Induce apoptosis Suppression of mast cells | Human skin fibroblast HaCaT cells Rat | [51] |
Pterocladia capillacea | Sulfated polysaccharide | Antimicrobial | N/A | Staphylococcus aureus Escherichia coli | [104] |
Pyropia columbia | Phenol | Antioxidant | DPPH, β-carotene bleaching and ABTS inhibitions | Piaractus mesopotamicus | [105] |
Pyropia yezoensis | Polysaccharide | Anti-aging | Promote collagen synthesis | Human dermal fibroblast | [106] |
Rhodomela confervoides | Polyphenol | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | Candida albicans, Mucor ramaniannus | [17] |
Bromophenol | Antioxidant | DPPH inhibition | In vitro | [107] | |
Schizymenia dubyi | Phenol | Anti-melanogenic | Inhibit tyrosinase activity | In vitro | [39] |
Green algae | |||||
Bryopsis plumose | Polysaccharide | Antioxidant | ROS scavenging potential | In vitro | [108] |
Chaetomorpha antennia | Fucoxanthin | Antioxidant | DPPH inhibition (63.77%) | In vitro | [109] |
Chlamydomo-nas hedleyi | MAA | Antioxidant Anti-aging Anti-inflammation | ROS scavenging potential Increase UV-suppressed genes (procollagen C proteinase enhancer and elastin) expression Reduce COX-2 and involucrin expression | In vitro HaCaT cells HaCaT cells | [52] |
Cladophora sp. | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. aureus, S. pyogenes | [56] |
Codium amplivesicula-tum | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. aureus, S. pyogenes | [56] |
Codium cuneatum | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. aureus, S. pyogenes | [56] |
Codium fragile | Sterol | Anti-inflammation | Reduces the expression of COX-2, iNOS, and TNF-α | Mice | [110] |
Codium simulans | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. aureus, S. pyogenes | [56] |
Entromorpha intestinalis | Chloroform and methanol extract | Antioxidant | SOD activity is reduced | Labidochromis caeruleus | [111] |
Enteromorpha linza | Polysaccharide | Antioxidant | ROS scavenging potential | In vitro | [108] |
Gayralia oxysperma | Fucoxanthin | Antioxidant | High FRAP value (>6 µM/µg of extract) | In vitro | [90] |
Ulva dactilifera | Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | S. aureus, Streptococcus pyogenes | [56] |
Ulva fasciata | Fucoxanthin | Antioxidant | DPPH inhibition (83.95%) | In vitro | [109] |
Ulva lactuca | Phycocolloids | Anti-inflammation | N/A | N/A | [75] |
Ulva pertusa | Polysaccharide | Antioxidant | ROS scavenging potential | In vitro | [108] |
Ulva prolifera | Phenol and flavonoid | Antioxidant | DPPH inhibition, high phenolic and flavonoid contents | In vitro | [112] |
Ulva rigida | Phenol | Antioxidant | DPPH inhibition | In vitro | [113] |
Ulva sp. | Sulfated polysaccharide | Anti-aging | Increase hyaluronan production | Human dermal fibroblast | [114] |
Microalgae/Cyanobacteria | |||||
Anabaena vaginicola | Lycopene | Antioxidant Anti-aging | N/A | In vitro | [115] |
Arthrospira platensis | Methanol extracts of exopolysaccharides | Antioxidant | N/A | In vitro | [115] |
Chlorella fusca | Sporopollenin | Anti-aging | Protect cells from UV radiation | N/A | [116] |
Chlorella minutissima | MAA | Anti-aging | Protect cells from UV radiation | N/A | [116] |
Chlorella sorokiniana | MAA | Anti-aging | Protect cells from UV radiation | N/A | [116] |
Lutein | Anti-aging | Reduce UV induced damage | N/A | [33] | |
Chlorella vulgaris | Hot water extract | Anti-aging | Reduced activity of SOD | Human diploid fibroblast | [117] |
Anti-inflammation | Downregulated mRNA expression levels of IL-4 and IFN-γ | NC/Nga mice | [118] | ||
Dunaliella salina | β-carotene | Antioxidant | Protect against oxidative stress | Rat | [119] |
β-cryptoxanthin | Anti-inflammation | Reduced the production of IL-1β, IL-6, TNF-α, the protein expression of iNOS and COX-2 | LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells | [120] | |
Haematococcus pluvialis | Astaxanthin (carotenoid) | Anti-aging | Inhibit MMP expression | Mice and human dermal fibroblasts | [121] |
Anticancer | ROS scavenging potential | Mice | [122] | ||
Nannochloropsis granulata | Carotenoid | Antioxidant | DPPH inhibition | In vitro | [123] |
Nannochloropsis oculata | Zeaxanthin | Anti-melanogenic | Inhibit tyrosinase | In vitro | [124] |
Nitzschia sp. | Fucoxanthin | Antioxidant | Reduced oxidative stress | Human Glioma Cells | [125] |
Nostoc sp. | MAA | Antioxidant | ROS scavenging potential | In vitro | [126] |
Odontella aurita | EPA | Antioxidant | Reduce oxidative stress | Rat | [127] |
Planktochlorella nurekis | Fatty acid | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | Campylobacter jejuni, E. coli, Salmonella enterica var. | [128] |
Porphyridium sp. | Sulfated polysaccharide | Anti-inflammation Antioxidant | Inhibit proinflammatory modulator Inhibited oxidative damage | Unknown 3T3 cells | [103] |
Rhodella reticulata | Sulfated polysaccharide | Antioxidant | ROS scavenging potential | In vitro | [103] |
Skeletonema marinoi | Polyunsaturated aldehyde and fatty acid | Anticancer | Inhibit cell proliferation | Human melanoma cells (A2058) | [129] |
Spirulina platensis | β-carotene and phycocyanin | Antioxidant Anti-inflammatio | Inhibit lipid peroxidation Inhibit TNF-α and IL-6 expressions | MouseHuman dermal fibroblast cells (CCD-986sk) | [130] |
Ethanol extract | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | E. coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Bacillus subtilis, and Aspergillus niger | [131] | |
Synechocystis spp. | Fatty acids and phenols | Antimicrobial | Bacterial growth inhibition | E. coli S. aureus | [68] |
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Thiyagarasaiyar, K.; Goh, B.-H.; Jeon, Y.-J.; Yow, Y.-Y. Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges. Mar. Drugs 2020, 18, 323. https://doi.org/10.3390/md18060323
Thiyagarasaiyar K, Goh B-H, Jeon Y-J, Yow Y-Y. Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges. Marine Drugs. 2020; 18(6):323. https://doi.org/10.3390/md18060323
Chicago/Turabian StyleThiyagarasaiyar, Krishnapriya, Bey-Hing Goh, You-Jin Jeon, and Yoon-Yen Yow. 2020. "Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges" Marine Drugs 18, no. 6: 323. https://doi.org/10.3390/md18060323