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Article

Analysis of the Variability of the Textile Properties of Brown Cotton Preserved in the Native Communities of the Amazon of the Province of La Convención—Cusco

by
Luis Morales-Aranibar
1,*,
Fanny Rosario Márquez-Romero
2,
Carlos Genaro Morales-Aranibar
3,
Diego Aran Ferreiro
4,
Jorge González Aguilera
5,
Fábio Steiner
5 and
Alan Mario Zuffo
6
1
Departamento de Ingeniería Civil y Ciencias Básicas, National Intercultural University of Quillabamba, Cusco 08741, Peru
2
Departamento de Ingenieria Agronomica Tropical, National Intercultural University of Quillabamba, Cusco 08741, Peru
3
Faculty of Sciences, National University of Engineering, Tupac Amaru Av. 210, Rimac, Lima 15333, Peru
4
Instituto Superior de Agronomia, Universidade de Lisboa, Tapada da Ajuda, 1349-017 Lisbon, Portugal
5
Department of Crop Science, State University of Mato Grosso do Sul, Cassilândia 79540-000, MS, Brazil
6
Department of Agronomy, State University of Maranhão (UEMA), Balsas 65800-000, MA, Brazil
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Diversity 2025, 17(4), 272; https://doi.org/10.3390/d17040272
Submission received: 6 March 2025 / Revised: 3 April 2025 / Accepted: 7 April 2025 / Published: 11 April 2025
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plant Diversity Hotspots in the 2020s)
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Abstract

:
Brown cotton (Gossypium spp.), which is grown in the native communities of the Cusco Amazon, is a promising resource for the sustainable textile industry as its natural properties eliminate the need for synthetic dyes, thus reducing its environmental impact. The objective of this study was to analyze the variability of the textile properties of colored cotton grown in the Native Communities of the Amazon of La Convención (NCAC), Cusco, to identify its advantages and potential in the textile industry. The methodology included the evaluation of nine accessions collected in the NCAC with the Uster HVI M-1000 system to evaluate variables such as length, resistance, uniformity, maturity, short fiber content and elongation. The results revealed significant variability in fiber properties, with lengths ranging from 21.44 mm to 27.88 mm and strengths ranging from 16.3 to 36.9 gf/tex, which are favorable values for high-quality textile applications. In addition, a short fiber content (SFI) between 9.1% and 27.3% and a uniformity index of 77.6% to 83.5% were found, demonstrating significant fiber consistency. Pearson’s correlation revealed positive relationships between length, strength and uniformity, suggesting that genotypes with longer fibers tend to have greater strength and uniformity. Principal component analysis explained 81.5% of the variability, with the first component being influenced by length and strength and the second being influenced by short fiber content and uniformity. Cluster analysis identified three main groups of accessions, the first being ideal for the production of high-quality fiber. The study of brown cotton grown in the NCAC highlights the potential of this fiber as a strategic resource for the sustainable textile industry.

1. Introduction

Cotton (Gossypium spp.) is one of the most important and versatile crops in the global textile industry and is widely valued for the high quality of its natural fibers [1]. These fibers, which are essential for textile production, vary considerably among the different species of the genus Gossypium, highlighting the unparalleled diversity of cotton in terms of industrial and textile applications [2]. Within this genus, more than 50 species have been identified, of which only four are commonly grown commercially, with Gossypium hirsutum and Gossypium barbadense being the most prominent owing to their predominance in global fiber production [3,4,5,6]. In particular, G. barbadense L., a native species of South America, stands out for the extraordinary length, fineness and softness of its fibers, characteristics that have made it one of the most sought-after varieties for the production of luxury textiles, such as Pima and Sea Island cotton [5,7,8,9,10,11].
This type of cotton has historically been cultivated in tropical and subtropical regions, such as Peru, where the genetic richness of G. barbadense has been exploited to develop varieties with very high-quality fibers [5,12,13]. These varieties are valued not only for their superior quality but also for their ability to adapt to diverse environmental conditions, making them fundamental resources for genetic improvement and the sustainability of cotton production [7,13,14,15,16]. However, many previous studies have focused on white fiber cotton, leaving relatively unexplored the enormous potential offered by colored cotton varieties, such as those grown in native communities in the Amazonian region of La Convención, Cusco, Peru [5,13]. These colored cotton varieties, which include natural shades of brown, green and beige [5], not only offer an ecological alternative by avoiding the use of synthetic dyes but also represent an invaluable resource for biodiversity conservation and sustainable textile production [17,18,19]. The improvement of germplasm and the development of colored cotton varieties using modern breeding methods has reduced the gap between white and colored cotton in terms of yield and fiber quality [20,21,22]. Making fabrics from colored cotton, with its naturally colored fibers, brings significant environmental benefits by reducing the chemicals used in the dyeing process [23,24,25].
In this context, recent studies by Morales-Aranibar et al. [5,10,11,13] have begun to identify and characterize native accessions of G. barbadense L. var. brasiliensis, Gossypium barbadense L. and Gossypium hirsutum L. grown in the Amazonian communities of La Convención. These works have revealed not only superior fiber quality but also considerable potential for genetic improvement, especially in terms of adaptation to local environmental conditions and to the demands of the international textile market [5,11]. Other studies have shown that the genetic variability present in colored cotton accessions can be a source of beneficial alleles for improving traits such as fiber length, strength, and uniformity, which are highly valued in the textile industry [19,26,27].
On the other hand, the role of native communities in the in situ conservation of these colored cotton varieties should not be underestimated [13]. These communities, which have cultivated and preserved native varieties of G. barbadense for generations, significantly contribute to the protection of genetic biodiversity and the sustainability of agricultural systems in the Amazon region [8,13]. The growing demand for sustainable and ecological textile products in global markets has also highlighted the importance of this type of research. This not only allows the valorization of local genetic resources but also contributes to the diversification of the textile sector in countries such as Peru, expanding its export opportunities and improving the competitiveness of its cotton in niche markets [2,28]. Associated with the application of colors to white cotton, dyes generate large volumes of chemical-laden wastewater that, when not properly treated, contaminate water bodies and soils, affecting local biodiversity and human health [2]. In contrast, colored cotton, cultivated ancestrally in native communities, preserves its natural pigmentation, which not only reduces the use of chemicals but also promotes sustainable and environmentally friendly agricultural practices [8,13].
These practices are still in force in regions such as La Convención, Cusco, where Amazonian communities play a fundamental role in the conservation of native varieties of Gossypium and in the preservation of agricultural biodiversity. By cultivating colored cotton, these communities not only maintain their cultural and biological heritage but also contribute to the ecological resilience of their territories, preserving valuable genetic resources for the future [5]. Pigmented cotton has naturally become a strategic resource for the sustainable textile industry, as its production and processing entail a significantly lower carbon footprint than traditional industrial methods, which rely heavily on polluting chemicals and high water consumption [2,16].
Despite the obvious environmental and social benefits of growing colored cotton, studies addressing the genetic variability and technological properties of these fibers in Peru remain limited. Research on these varieties is especially relevant in the context of increasing demand for sustainable textiles, as fundamental characteristics such as fiber strength, fineness, and uniformity are crucial for the positioning of these products in niche markets [16,26]. These technological properties determine the competitiveness of fibers in the global market, influencing their economic value and viability for high-quality commercial applications.
To date, only a limited number of native colored cotton accessions have been thoroughly characterized, representing a missed opportunity for both plant breeders and the textile industry. Further evaluation of the genetic variability and technological properties of these fibers could provide an invaluable resource for breeding programs seeking to develop new varieties that are more competitive and adapted to the sustainability demands of the global market [11]. In addition, this research could contribute to a better understanding of how local environmental conditions influence the properties of colored cotton, thus providing a scientific basis for its optimization in different agricultural environments [8,26].
Thus, the characterization and evaluation of the textile properties of colored cotton grown in the Amazon region of Cusco represent a unique opportunity to expand our knowledge of the genetic diversity of G. barbadense and its applicability in the sustainable textile industry. Studies to date have confirmed the relevance of these accessions both for the preservation of genetic biodiversity and for their potential use in the development of new commercial varieties that respond to the growing demands of sustainability and quality in the global market [5,10,11].
The native communities of the Amazon in the province of La Convención, Cusco, play a crucial role in the conservation of native varieties of Gossypium, which presents remarkable genetic diversity that is still in the process of characterization [5]. The evaluation of this genetic diversity is essential not only for its preservation but also for identifying accessions with favorable textile characteristics, such as fiber strength, fineness and uniformity, which could have a significant effect on the development of a more sustainable textile industry [8]. The study of these technological properties is particularly relevant in a context where international markets increasingly value ecological and sustainable products. The characterization of these fibers could provide new opportunities for the genetic improvement of cotton, facilitating its adaptation to the demands of the global market [2,16]. Through this analysis, we seek to provide key information for the conservation of native varieties and their use in global value chains, thus promoting the diversification of the textile sector in Peru and contributing to its competitiveness in the sustainable textile market. The objective of the present work was to analyze the variability of the textile properties of colored cotton cultivated in the native communities of the Amazon in the province of La Convención, Cusco, to identify its advantages and potential in the textile industry.

2. Materials and Methods

2.1. Location and Method of Sampling Plant Material

The collection was carried out in Amazonian native communities (Poyentimari and Koribeni) located in the district of Echarati, La Convención, Cusco, Peru (12°46′03″ S and 72°34′54″ W, altitude 980 m.a.s.l.). and in the Amazonian native communities of Kirigueti, Timpía, Shivankoreni, Ticumpinía and Camisea located in the district of Megantoni, La Convención, Cusco, Peru (12°46′03″ S and 72°34′54″ W, and altitude 360 m.a.s.l.).
Cotton genetic materials were collected between April and December 2021. A total of four samples of G. barbadense L. (G3, G4, G5 and G7), four samples of G. barbadense var. brasiliensis (G1, G6, G8 and G9) and one sample of Gossypium sp. (G2, unidentified cotton) were collected. All of them presented brown fiber color variations (Figure 1).
For all the collections, authorizations were requested from the Amazonian native communities for the collection of cotton genetic materials. The sampling of cotton accessions was performed via the nonprobabilistic (i.e., nonrandom) subjective sample selection method [29]. All samples were collected following the procedures described by Morales-Aranibar et al. [5]. The nine cotton accessions native to the Amazonian region of Peru were selected from among the 147 samples collected by Morales-Aranibar et al. [5], which were selected for the presence of colored fibers.

2.2. Measurement of the Qualitative and Quantitative Properties of Cotton Fibers

The nine colored-fiber cotton accessions were used for fiber quality determination. Fiber quality analyses of all the cotton fiber samples were performed via a Uster high-volume instrument (HVI) M-1000 under controlled conditions (24.9 °C and 50% relative humidity) at the SENATI Laboratory. A sample of 50 g of fibers from each of the cotton accessions was used with three repetitions. The fiber properties determined via HVI included the fiber length (UHML, mm), Micronaire index (MIC, unit), fiber strength (STR_res, g tex−1), fiber elongation (Elong, %), short fiber content (SFI, %), uniform length index (UNIF, %), and maturity coefficient (MAD, unit). All the quantitative fiber properties were classified into five classes according to the average value of each fiber characteristic, as used by Hayat and Bardak [30]. The descriptive designation of each fiber property class is shown in Table 1.

2.3. Statistical Analysis

With respect to the data of the fiber quality characteristics, an unbalanced ANOVA was initially performed considering three groups [G. barbadense L. var. brasiliensis (Group 1), Gossypium spp. accessions (Group 2) and G. barbadense L. (Group 3)], and when significant, the means were compared via Duncan’s test at 5%. A Pearson correlation between the evaluated variables was performed, as were a principal component analysis and a hierarchical clustering analysis via the unweighted pair group method with the arithmetic mean (UPGMA) method, to separate the variables into divergent groups among the nine brown cotton genotypes according to their motes. All analyses were performed via the program Rbio version 166 for Windows [35].

3. Results

3.1. Diversity in Terms of Fiber Quality

After the cotton samples were collected in the native communities of Cusco, nine accessions whose brown spot color was the focus of the present work were identified. An evaluation of the characteristics associated with the color of the mote and seeds and the quality of the fiber was carried out, and the information is shown in Table 2. Table 2 shows that of the nine genotypes collected, the same number of G. barbadense var. brasiliensis and G. barbadense individuals were collected, with four for each of these two species, whereas only one brown individual, which did not have the typical characteristics of the other two species, was characterized. With respect to the collection sites, we observed that they were distributed across seven different sites and that Timpia was the site where most of them were found, with three brown speckled accessions (Figure 1). At the other six collection sites, only a single representative of brown cotton was found (Table 2).
When the values obtained for the seven variables related to the quality of brown cotton were evaluated, variation was observed among them. The UHML associated with the length of the fibers varied, with a minimum value of 21.44 for G. barbadense var. brasiliensis collected in Camisea and a maximum value of 27.88 for G. barbadense var. brasiliensis collected in Timpia (Table 2). The MIC associated with fiber fineness varied from a minimum value of 4.8 reported for the genotype G. barbadense var. brasiliensis collected in Poyentimari to a maximum value of 7.07 reported for a genotype classified as G. barbadense and collected in Koribeni. The variable STR_res associated with fiber resistance presented minimum and maximum values of 16.3 and 36.9, respectively, for both genotypes classified as G. barbadense var. brasiliensis and those collected in Poyentimari and Timpia, respectively (Table 2). The fiber elongation variable presented maximum and minimum values of 13.5 and 19.4, respectively, both of which were present in individuals characterized as G. barbadense and collected in Ticumpinia and Koribeni, respectively.
The SFI associated with the short-fiber index had minimum and maximum values of 9.1 and 27.3, respectively, both of which are genotypes classified as G. barbadense var. brasiliensis and collected in Timpia and Poyentimari, respectively (Table 2). Fiber uniformity was another variable evaluated and showed minimum and maximum variations of 77.6 and 73.5, respectively. These values were associated with genotypes characterized as G. barbadense var. brasiliensis collected from Poyentimari and G. barbadense collected from Kirigueti (Table 2). Finally, the variable related to fiber maturity was evaluated and had minimum and maximum values of 0.76 and 0.80, respectively, indicating the least variation among the variables evaluated.

3.2. ANOVA Related to Fiber Quality

With the information of the qualitative descriptors shown in Table 2, an ANOVA was performed to determine whether groups that considered the brown speck cotton species significantly differed. As shown in Table 3, there was no significant difference in any of the seven characteristics evaluated among the three groups, and Group II contained the unclassified individuals; its qualities in relation to the quality of the fibers were close to those of both species described when the mean values described in Table 3 were considered. The coefficients of variation were less than 25%, with the exception of the SFI variable, which had 35.30% variation.

3.3. Pearson Correlations Between Variables

Figure 2 shows the correlations obtained between the seven variables related to the quality of cotton fibers with brown speckles collected from native communities of the Amazon in the Province of La Convención—Cusco.
The variable UHML shows strong positive correlations (STR_res, 0.66; UNIF, 072; MAD, 0.79, all at p < 0.05) and negative correlations (Elong, −0.67; SFI, −0.76, all at p < 0.05) with most of the other variables, with the exception of the MIC, which shows a low correlation of 0.15 magnitude. The variable MIC barely showed a significant correlation (p < 0.05) of moderate magnitude (0.59) with STR_res, with the remaining variables showing correlations of low magnitude and not significant (Figure 2). The STR_res variable was strongly negatively correlated (−0.73) and significantly (p < 0.05) with the SFI. The variable Elongation manifested a highly significant (p < 0.001) positive and high correlation of 0.95 with the MAD variable. The SFI variable showed a highly significant (p < 0.001) negative and high correlation of −0.92 with the UNIF variable. These correlations indicate that there is a close relationship between most of the variables and the possibility of selecting directly or indirectly for some of the evaluated characteristics, with the possibility of having more than one favorable characteristic when we consider the fiber quality of brown cottons collected in native communities of the Amazon of the Province of La Convención—Cusco.

3.4. Principal Component Analysis

Figure 3 shows the results of the principal component analysis obtained by using seven variables related to the quality of the fibers of nine cottons that have brown speckles and that were collected in native communities of the Amazon of the Province of La Convención—Cusco.
The results indicate that the analysis managed to capture 58% of the data in CP1 and 23.5% in CP2, accounting for 81.5% of the variability of the data (Figure 3). We used a priori knowledge of the species to which each genotype belongs to determine its grouping during the analysis. The group that included the species G. barbadense was represented by genotypes G3, G4, G5 and G7, most of which were closely related to the variables Elongation, MIC and STR_res, while genotype G3 was more distant and closer to the MAD variable, indicating that its separation was influenced by the MAD value (Figure 3).
The group formed by the genotypes was classified as G. barbadense var. brasiliense (G1, G6, G8 and G9), with the exception of genotype G1, whose location was influenced by the UHML and UNIF variables; the remaining representatives of this group were more closely related to the SFI variable. Genotype G2, which has no species described, is found in the middle of two individuals of each of the species described and is close to the UHML variable, showing that it differs from the others in terms of the values shown for this variable (Figure 3).

3.5. Cluster Analysis

Figure 4 shows the results of the UPGMA clustering analysis as a heatmap, which was obtained by using seven variables related to the quality of the fibers of nine cottons that have brown speckles and that were collected in native communities of the Amazon of the Province of La Convención—Cusco.
The formation of two main groups is observed. Group I is formed by genotypes G1, G3, G2 and G4, which are characterized by low values of the variables SFI and Elongation and, at the same time, higher values for the remaining variables (MIC, STR resistance, UNIF, UHML and MAD). This first group is related to the magnitudes of the variables, which are ideally needed for cotton to have excellent fiber quality. Group II is formed by the remaining genotypes (G8, G9, G7, G5 and G6) with inverse behavior to that shown in Group I. In both groups, the two species described have representatives, which indicates that within each of the species, we managed to have variability in the response, and with that, we managed to select within each of them, confirming the results of the principal component analysis (Figure 3).

4. Discussion

4.1. Quality of Cotton Fiber

The quality of cotton fiber is fundamental for the textile industry, and its genetic variability, particularly within the genus Gossypium, offers a wide range of possibilities for the improvement and sustainability of this crop [15,19]. Morales-Aranibar et al. [5] showed how native communities in the Peruvian Amazon, specifically in La Convención, Cusco, conserve the important genetic diversity of cotton, a resource that has long been underestimated in terms of its value for research and industry. Morales-Aranibar et al. [5], in their initial collection of 147 genotypes, described Gossypium barbadense and its variety brasiliensis, as well as introduced populations of G. hirsutum. This account is notable not only for intraspecific variability in terms of fiber quality but also for phenotypic variability, such as in speck color, with up to 18 different shades [5].
Morales-Aranibar et al. [5] reported that particularly interesting in this collection is the inclusion of accessions not yet classified, such as genotype G2 (Table 2), which presents unusual characteristics, such as brown fibers, but does not coincide with the typical morphological characteristics of G. barbadense or G. hirsutum. This discovery suggests the presence of genotypes with genetic diversity not yet explored, with characteristics close to and at the same time distant from those of the species described under the same collection conditions [5]. The identification and characterization of these accessions is crucial, as they could represent ancestral lineages or natural crosses that have occurred in these regions due to the evolutionary dynamics of the Amazonian ecosystem, an isolated environment, but at the same time prone to hybridization [36,37]. The very way in which they are conserved and reproduced in Amazonian communities has induced the formation of these new, as yet undescribed, accessions.

4.2. Biodiversity and Conservation

The importance of preserving these cotton accessions extends beyond simple biodiversity conservation; they also open a door to the future of cotton genetic improvement. Cotton not only is a crucial raw material for the textile industry but also represents a strategic resource in response to the challenges of climate change and the growing demand for fiber [38]. Traditional breeding methods have reduced the genetic diversity of current cultivars, highlighting the urgent need to exploit the vast germplasm available within Peruvian Amazonian communities. This includes both cultivated and wild species, the latter being unexplored sources of unique alleles that could revolutionize cotton breeding [39]. The use of advanced strategies such as chemical mutagenesis and modern gene transfer technologies facilitates the incorporation of these genetic resources into breeding programs, allowing the creation of more resilient and adaptive cultivars [40]. Therefore, active conservation and strategic utilization of cotton germplasm are essential not only for sustaining agrobiodiversity but also for ensuring the economic and ecological well-being of future generations [41].
Genotypes not classified as G2 could harbor key genes for pest resistance and adaptation to abiotic stress conditions, such as drought or salinity, which significantly affect productivity in agricultural areas with limited water resources [42]. This genotype also contains genes that determine unique, desirable fiber characteristics in terms of color, strength and fineness [38], mainly in terms of the performance obtained (Table 2). This underscores the importance of the conservation and strategic utilization of cotton genetic biodiversity for future breeding programs that seek to improve not only agricultural productivity but also plant adaptability to changing and adverse environmental conditions [13].

4.3. Fibers with Natural Colors

Cotton fibers with natural colors, such as brown, green and beige colors, represent a valuable alternative strategy for reducing the use of chemical dyes in the textile industry, thus minimizing the environmental impact associated with conventional dyeing processes. Their use makes it possible to reduce the amount of water, energy and chemicals needed, which not only responds to increasingly stringent environmental regulations but also meets a growing demand for sustainable and ethically produced products [17,43]. These fibers also offer advantages in terms of fabric durability, as the pigments are naturally integrated into the fiber, improving their fade resistance [44].
At the market level, naturally colored cotton has positioned itself as a competitive advantage for brands committed to the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), particularly in terms of responsible consumption (SDG 12). This response corresponds to greater environmental awareness among consumers, who value transparency and sustainability in textile production processes [43]. This type of fiber, in addition to offering an environmentally friendly product, reflects traditional agricultural practices adapted to local conditions, demonstrating that sustainable innovation can be compatible with respect for ancestral practices [17].

4.4. Quality of the Collected Material

In our study, the evaluation of the nine brown cotton accessions derived from the collection carried out in native communities of the Amazon revealed significant variability in fiber properties, which is crucial for the characterization and subsequent selection of cultivars for industrial purposes [5].
Fiber length is critical to the textile industry, as longer fibers allow for the production of finer and stronger yarns. In this study, the length ranged from 21.44 mm to 27.88 mm, reflecting significant variability and competitive potential against commercial white fiber cotton varieties [11,45,46]. This underscores the importance of these native materials, as long fibers not only allow for finer spinning but also offer greater strength, making these accessions valuable sources for improving the quality of textile products [47,48,49].
Fiber strength, with values between 16.3 gf/tex and 36.9 gf/tex (Table 2), is critical to ensure the durability of yarns and textile products in general. Fibers with high strength are preferred in applications that demand greater durability, such as workwear and fabrics intended to withstand constant stress and abrasions. This characteristic is highly valued in the textile market, as stronger fibers not only guarantee greater longevity but also contribute significantly to the quality of the final product, making them ideal for a variety of uses where strength is key [11,31,50].
Elongation, with values between 13.5% and 19.4% (Table 2), suggests that some of these fibers have a high potential to withstand deformation during processing without breaking, making them ideal for applications such as sportswear [11]. Previous studies have shown that both Gossypium spp. and Gossypium barbadense L. var. brasiliensis have high elongation values, ranging between 11% and 15%, exceeding the threshold of 7.7%, which is considered very high elongation capacity [11,32]. This level of elasticity reduces the risk of breakage during fabric production and increases spinning efficiency, positioning these fibers as high-quality materials for the textile industry [33]. These findings highlight the importance of both species in textile production and suggest great potential for genetic improvement focused on elongation, a key parameter for achieving durable and flexible fabrics [32,33,51], by employing brown sources in their speckles.
The MIC, which measures both fiber fineness and maturity, ranged from 4.08 to 7.07 (Table 2). An adequate MIC is essential for textile applications, as high values can negatively affect processability [11,32,33]. The fibers in this study present a medium MIC, which is significant, as it indicates the presence of genes that contribute to maintaining fiber thickness, a crucial attribute for specific applications in the textile industry. These attributes could be key in the development of future cotton varieties that combine durability with properties tailored to specific market demands [31,32].
The short fiber content (SFI), which ranges from 9.1% to 27.3% (Table 2), is an important trait for genotype selection, as a lower proportion of short fibers improves the spinning efficiency, reduces waste and strengthens the final products [11]. In this study, the short-fiber index was another key aspect evaluated, highlighting the importance of a low percentage to obtain superior-quality textile products, as suggested by Salazar [34] and López et al. [52]. These characteristics underscore the potential of these varieties to produce high-quality yarns and fabrics, highlighting the importance of conserving and selecting specific cotton varieties with low short fiber indices to optimize the quality of the final product in the textile industry.
Fiber uniformity, which ranged from 77.6% to 83.5% (Table 2), is essential for the production of smooth yarns and high-quality fabrics, although moderate variability was observed among genotypes, which was also reported by Morales-Aranibar et al. [11]. The evaluation of cotton fiber uniformity is crucial for characterizing fabric quality and appearance, and this study highlighted the presence of fibers with “very high” uniformity. This level of uniformity allows for softer and stronger yarns, better fabric appearance and higher processing efficiency, as indicated by authoritative sources in the field [31,32,33,34].
Finally, fiber maturity, which ranged from 0.76 to 0.80 (Table 2), was less variable than the other characteristics were, suggesting that most of the genotypes evaluated had acceptable maturity. However, these values, which are in the range of 0.70–0.85, indicate low to moderate maturity, characteristic of immature fibers. Although dyeing is not necessary for these colored cottons, maturity is still a crucial factor in the quality of the final product, as immature fibers tend to be less resilient and more susceptible to breakage during processing. This can affect the durability and efficiency of yarn and fabric production. Therefore, selecting genotypes with adequate maturity is essential for optimizing fiber strength and quality in applications where colored cotton is valued for its natural and sustainable appearance [11,34].

4.5. Multivariate Analyses: Potential Use in Identifying Superior Genotypes

The correlations observed between cotton fiber properties in this study provide key information for genetic improvement and crop optimization. These correlations not only reveal statistical relationships but also have practical implications for the textile industry, especially in the selection of genotypes for breeding high-quality fibers [2,11].
Fiber length (UHML) was significantly positively correlated with strength resistance (STR-res), indicating that genotypes with longer fibers tend to be stronger. This strength is critical in industrial processing, as stronger fibers better withstand stresses during spinning and weaving, resulting in more durable products [2]. Selecting genotypes with long fibers allows simultaneous improvement in strength, which facilitates the production of fine and strong yarns, which are sought after in high-quality textile manufacturing [2]. In addition, uniformity was positively correlated with fiber length. Genotypes with longer fibers tend to have greater uniformity, which reduces yarn irregularities and improves the softness and appearance of the final product. Greater uniformity also reduces waste in the spinning process, increasing yarn efficiency and consistency [11].
A positive correlation was also found between fiber length and fiber maturity. Mature fibers with thicker cell walls are stronger and dye better, which is crucial for the production of uniformly colored, high-quality textiles [2]. Genotypes with long fibers are not only more resistant and uniform but also easier to process and dye, improving performance at key stages of the textile process [10].
On the other hand, the short fiber content (SFI) was negatively correlated with uniformity. Short fibers are problematic in spinning, as they generate weaker and less consistent yarns, in addition to increasing waste. Selecting genotypes with low short fiber contents is essential for maximizing uniformity and improving both yarn quality and spinning efficiency [2,10].
Principal component analysis (PCA) and UPGMA clustering analysis are essential multivariate tools for understanding genetic variability among accessions [11,53,54,55]. In this study, these techniques allowed the brown cotton accessions to be grouped into three clusters, showing that the clusters have characteristics that differentiate them and are evident in the two proposed analyses (Figure 3 and Figure 4).
The PCA explained 81.5% of the total variability (Figure 3). Principal component 1 (PC1) captured most of the variability and was influenced by characteristics such as the fiber length (UHML), strength (STR) and MIC. Principal component 2 (PC2), on the other hand, reflected additional variability linked to factors such as short fiber content (SFI) and uniformity (UNIF). The groups of G. barbadense L. var. brasiliensis (Group 1) and G. barbadense L. (Group 3), compared in the analysis shown in Table 3, clearly differed in terms of their fiber quality characteristics, although with some overlap, indicating that both share some characteristics. Group 2, composed of Gossypium spp. accessions, was similar to both other groups, suggesting intermediate characteristics [2,11] and possibly indicating the origin of this genotype from these two species.
The UPGMA grouping analysis (Figure 4) using the seven evaluated characteristics also revealed three well-defined groups, confirming the PCA results (Figure 3). Group 1 included accessions with high-quality fiber characteristics, with optimum length and strength, which are ideal for the production of high-end yarns. Group 2 included accessions with intermediate characteristics, suggesting the potential for improving certain key traits. Group 3 included accessions with moderate fiber quality, which is useful information in situations where it is not necessary to select or propose crosses to achieve high-quality standards.
The differences among these three groups have important implications for breeding programs. The Group 1 genotype is the most suitable for improving fiber quality. Group 2 could be useful in crosses to improve specific traits, whereas Group 3, although of moderate quality, can be exploited in specific applications or to combine favorable traits from other groups [11].
However, it is crucial to consider that fiber quality depends not only on genetic factors but also on the environmental conditions that can significantly influence its development. Previous studies have shown that factors such as low temperatures can negatively affect fiber formation, reducing the MIC and compromising fiber maturity [56]. In regions such as the Amazon, where the accessions studied are located, these conditions can vary considerably and are likely to play an important role in the final quality of the fibers collected.
In addition, water stress is another environmental factor that can reduce both fiber length and quality. Water scarcity during critical stages of cotton development can generate shorter and less resistant fibers, affecting the production of high-quality yarns [56]. This factor is especially relevant in Amazonian areas, where water availability varies seasonally. Therefore, the selection of genotypes that not only present high genetic fiber quality but are also resistant to these variable environmental conditions is key to optimizing cotton yield and quality in these native communities.
The integration of these environmental factors in the analysis of the groups obtained via PCA and UPGMA highlights the need for selection considering multiple traits. Fiber quality traits such as length, strength and uniformity should be prioritized, as should the ability of genotypes to tolerate adverse climatic conditions such as low temperatures and water stress. This combination of environmental resistance and genetic quality is essential for developing cultivars that can thrive in the Amazon region and maintain high standards in the textile industry.

5. Conclusions

The study of brown cotton grown in native communities of the Amazon in Cusco highlights the potential of this fiber as a strategic resource for the sustainable textile industry. The accessions analyzed showed remarkable variability in quality characteristics, including length, strength, uniformity, maturity and short fiber content. Together, these properties highlight the intrinsic value of colored cotton, which not only minimizes the need for synthetic dyes and reduces the environmental impact but also offers alternatives in specific textile applications where durability and natural aesthetics are crucial.
The positive correlation between fiber length and fiber strength reinforces the suitability of these fibers for producing strong and uniform yarns, while their high level of uniformity contributes to greater efficiency in the spinning process. In addition, the variability in short fiber content and maturity index points to areas of opportunity in genetic selection to further improve the quality of these cultivars. The characterization and preservation of these varieties not only enrich the gene pool for the improvement of cultivars adapted to specific conditions in the Peruvian Amazon but also present new opportunities for the global textile market to value more sustainable and culturally meaningful products.
In this context, native communities not only play a fundamental role in the conservation of agricultural biodiversity but also represent a living connection between tradition and sustainable innovation. This study suggests that fostering these practices and integrating modern science can increase the competitiveness of Peruvian cotton in niche markets while promoting sustainability and economic diversification in the region.

Author Contributions

Conceptualization, L.M.-A., C.G.M.-A. and J.G.A.; Data curation, L.M.-A., C.G.M.-A. and J.G.A.; Formal analysis, L.M.-A., F.R.M.-R., C.G.M.-A., D.A.F., J.G.A., F.S. and A.M.Z.; Funding acquisition, L.M.-A. and F.R.M.-R.; Investigation, L.M.-A., C.G.M.-A., J.G.A., F.S. and A.M.Z.; Methodology, L.M.-A., F.R.M.-R., C.G.M.-A., D.A.F., J.G.A., F.S. and A.M.Z.; Project administration, L.M.-A. and D.A.F.; Resources, L.M.-A., F.R.M.-R., C.G.M.-A., D.A.F., F.S. and A.M.Z.; Software, L.M.-A., C.G.M.-A., D.A.F., J.G.A., F.S. and A.M.Z.; Supervision, L.M.-A. and D.A.F.; Validation, L.M.-A., F.R.M.-R., J.G.A., F.S. and A.M.Z.; Visualization, L.M.-A., F.R.M.-R., C.G.M.-A., D.A.F., J.G.A., F.S. and A.M.Z.; Writing—original draft, L.M.-A., F.R.M.-R., C.G.M.-A., D.A.F., J.G.A., F.S. and A.M.Z.; Writing—review and editing, L.M.-A., F.R.M.-R., C.G.M.-A., D.A.F., J.G.A., F.S. and A.M.Z. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of the manuscript.

Funding

This research was funded by Universidad Nacional Intercultural de Quillabamba, grant number 031-2023-CCO-UNIQ in the project “Variabilidad genética, distribución, impacto socioeconómico y calidad de algodón Gossypium spp. en Echarate y Megantoni Provincia de La Convención—Cusco”.

Institutional Review Board Statement

Not applicable.

Data Availability Statement

All the data relevant to the present study are included in the article. Any further details related to the experiments conducted can be made available by request to the corresponding author.

Acknowledgments

We want to thank INIA-Lambayaque, the Pedro Ruiz Gallo National University, the Native Amazonian Communities and their Artisan Organizations from the districts of Echarate and Megantoni.

Conflicts of Interest

The authors declare that they have no conflicts of interest.

Abbreviations

The following abbreviations are used in this manuscript:
UHMLFiber length
MICMicronaire index
STR_resFiber strength
ElongFiber elongation.
SFIShort fiber content
UNIFUniform length index
MADMaturity coefficient

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Figure 1. Images of the motes of the nine genotypes collected from native communities of the Amazon in the Province of La Convención—Cusco. G1 to G9 represent the different accessions collected, and SG1 to SG9 represent the seeds of the different accessions.
Figure 1. Images of the motes of the nine genotypes collected from native communities of the Amazon in the Province of La Convención—Cusco. G1 to G9 represent the different accessions collected, and SG1 to SG9 represent the seeds of the different accessions.
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Figure 2. Pearson correlation analysis was performed to compare variables related to the quality of cotton obtained from brown speck cotton cultivars collected from native communities of the Amazon in the Province of La Convención—Cusco. Abbreviations: fiber length (UHML, mm), Micronaire index (MIC, unit), fiber strength (STR_res, g tex−1), fiber elongation (Elong, %), short fiber content (SFI, %), uniform length index (UNIF, %), and maturity coefficient (MAD, unit). Correlation values with symbols *, ** and *** represent significant differences at 0.5, 0.1 and 0.01%, respectively. The diagonal of the figure represents the frequency of the data, and the curve associated with the distribution of the data. Below the diagonal, the circles with a white background represent the combination of the data for each two variables and the red line represents the curve associated with the distribution of these values.
Figure 2. Pearson correlation analysis was performed to compare variables related to the quality of cotton obtained from brown speck cotton cultivars collected from native communities of the Amazon in the Province of La Convención—Cusco. Abbreviations: fiber length (UHML, mm), Micronaire index (MIC, unit), fiber strength (STR_res, g tex−1), fiber elongation (Elong, %), short fiber content (SFI, %), uniform length index (UNIF, %), and maturity coefficient (MAD, unit). Correlation values with symbols *, ** and *** represent significant differences at 0.5, 0.1 and 0.01%, respectively. The diagonal of the figure represents the frequency of the data, and the curve associated with the distribution of the data. Below the diagonal, the circles with a white background represent the combination of the data for each two variables and the red line represents the curve associated with the distribution of these values.
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Figure 3. Principal component analysis of variables related to the quality of cotton obtained from brown speck cotton cultivars collected from native communities of the Amazon in the Province of La Convención—Cusco. Abbreviations: fiber length (UHML, mm), Micronaire index (MIC, unit), fiber strength (STR_res, g tex−1), fiber elongation (Elong, %), short fiber content (SFI, %), uniform length index (UNIF, %), and maturity coefficient (MAD, unit). In scree plots 1 to 9, accessions G1 to G9, respectively, were significant.
Figure 3. Principal component analysis of variables related to the quality of cotton obtained from brown speck cotton cultivars collected from native communities of the Amazon in the Province of La Convención—Cusco. Abbreviations: fiber length (UHML, mm), Micronaire index (MIC, unit), fiber strength (STR_res, g tex−1), fiber elongation (Elong, %), short fiber content (SFI, %), uniform length index (UNIF, %), and maturity coefficient (MAD, unit). In scree plots 1 to 9, accessions G1 to G9, respectively, were significant.
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Figure 4. Clustering analysis of variables related to cotton quality that were obtained from brown speck cotton cultivars collected from native communities of the Amazon in the Province of La Convención—Cusco. Abbreviations: fiber length (UHML, mm), Micronaire index (MIC, unit), fiber strength (STR_res, g tex−1), fiber elongation (Elong, %), short fiber content (SFI, %), uniform length index (UNIF, %), and maturity coefficient (MAD, unit).
Figure 4. Clustering analysis of variables related to cotton quality that were obtained from brown speck cotton cultivars collected from native communities of the Amazon in the Province of La Convención—Cusco. Abbreviations: fiber length (UHML, mm), Micronaire index (MIC, unit), fiber strength (STR_res, g tex−1), fiber elongation (Elong, %), short fiber content (SFI, %), uniform length index (UNIF, %), and maturity coefficient (MAD, unit).
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Table 1. Classification of the quantitative fiber properties of nine colored fiber cotton accessions collected from native Amazonian communities in the province of La Convención, Cusco, Peru.
Table 1. Classification of the quantitative fiber properties of nine colored fiber cotton accessions collected from native Amazonian communities in the province of La Convención, Cusco, Peru.
Descriptor
(Measurement Unit)		Description
Qualitative		Description
Quantitative		Reference
Fiber length/mmShort fiber≤20.5[31]
Medium fiber20.6–27.8
Long fiber28.6–33.3
Extralong fiber34.9–42.0
Micronaire/maturity fineness−1Very fine<3.0[32,33]
Fine3–3.9
Medium4–4.9
Coarse5–5.9
Very coarse≥6.0
Fiber strength/gf tex−1Weak≤23[31]
Intermediate24–25
Average26–28
Strong29–30
Very strong≥31
Length uniformity index/%Very low<77[32,33]
Low77–79
Intermediate80–82
High83–85
Very high>85
Fiber elongation/%Very low<5.0[32,33]
Low5.0–5.8
Average5.9–6.7
High6.8–7.6
Very high≥7.7
Maturity indexVery immature<0.70[34]
Immature0.70–0.85
Mature0.86–1.00
Very mature>1.00
Short fiber index/%Very low<6[32]
Low6–9
Average10–13
High14–17
Very high>17
Table 2. Variables related to cotton quality that were obtained from nine brown speck cotton cultivars collected from native communities of the Amazon of the Province of La Convención—Cusco.
Table 2. Variables related to cotton quality that were obtained from nine brown speck cotton cultivars collected from native communities of the Amazon of the Province of La Convención—Cusco.
AccessionSpeciesCollection SiteCotton Fiber Quality Properties
UHMLMICSTR_resElongSFIUNIFMAD
G1G. barbadense var. brasiliensisTimpia27.886.2536.915.19.183.40.80
G2Gossypium spp.Timpia26.105.0528.315.110.083.40.79
G3G. barbadenseTicumpinia25.216.3520.913.512.282.10.80
G4G. barbadenseKirigueti23.686.2827.116.310.683.50.78
G5G. barbadenseShivankoreni23.285.2723.018.513.783.20.77
G6G. barbadense var. brasiliensisTimpia23.204.1220.816.916.481.70.78
G7G. barbadenseKoribeni22.597.0729.719.414.081.60.76
G8G. barbadense var. brasiliensisPoyentimari21.784.0816.317.327.377.60.77
G9G. barbadense var. brasiliensisCamisea21.446.4524.316.919.777.80.78
Fiber length (UHML, mm), Micronaire index (MIC, unit), fiber strength (STR_res, g tex−1), fiber elongation (Elong, %), short fiber content (SFI, %), uniform length index (UNIF, %), and maturity coefficient (MAD, unit).
Table 3. Average values of quantitative fiber characteristics for G. barbadense L. var. brasiliensis (Group 1), Gossypium spp. accessions (Group 2) and G. barbadense L. accessions (Group 3) collected from native Amazonian communities in La Convención, Cusco, Perú.
Table 3. Average values of quantitative fiber characteristics for G. barbadense L. var. brasiliensis (Group 1), Gossypium spp. accessions (Group 2) and G. barbadense L. accessions (Group 3) collected from native Amazonian communities in La Convención, Cusco, Perú.
Cotton GroupCotton Fiber Quality Properties
UHMLMICSTR_ResElongSFIUNIFMAD
Group 123.58 ± 2.975.23 ± 1.3024.58 ± 8.8516.55 ± 0.9818.13 ± 7.5580.13 ± 2.890.78 ± 0.01
Group 226.10 ± 0.015.05 ± 0.4128.30 ± 0.3215.10 ± 0.0210.00 ± 0.4183.40 ± 0.010.79 ± 0.05
Group 323.69 ± 1.116.24 ± 0.7425.18 ± 3.9716.93 ± 2.6312.63 ± 1.5682.60 ± 0.900.78 ± 0.02
F test
Probability > F0.370.290.790.540.190.160.60
CV (%)8.6017.5124.8311.2035.302.421.78
Coefficient of variation (CV, %), fiber length (UHML, mm), Micronaire index (MIC, unit), fiber strength (STR_res, g tex−1), fiber elongation (Elong, %), short fiber content (SFI, %), uniform length index (UNIF, %), and maturity coefficient (MAD, unit).
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Morales-Aranibar, L.; Márquez-Romero, F.R.; Morales-Aranibar, C.G.; Aran Ferreiro, D.; Aguilera, J.G.; Steiner, F.; Zuffo, A.M. Analysis of the Variability of the Textile Properties of Brown Cotton Preserved in the Native Communities of the Amazon of the Province of La Convención—Cusco. Diversity 2025, 17, 272. https://doi.org/10.3390/d17040272

AMA Style

Morales-Aranibar L, Márquez-Romero FR, Morales-Aranibar CG, Aran Ferreiro D, Aguilera JG, Steiner F, Zuffo AM. Analysis of the Variability of the Textile Properties of Brown Cotton Preserved in the Native Communities of the Amazon of the Province of La Convención—Cusco. Diversity. 2025; 17(4):272. https://doi.org/10.3390/d17040272

Chicago/Turabian Style

Morales-Aranibar, Luis, Fanny Rosario Márquez-Romero, Carlos Genaro Morales-Aranibar, Diego Aran Ferreiro, Jorge González Aguilera, Fábio Steiner, and Alan Mario Zuffo. 2025. "Analysis of the Variability of the Textile Properties of Brown Cotton Preserved in the Native Communities of the Amazon of the Province of La Convención—Cusco" Diversity 17, no. 4: 272. https://doi.org/10.3390/d17040272

APA Style

Morales-Aranibar, L., Márquez-Romero, F. R., Morales-Aranibar, C. G., Aran Ferreiro, D., Aguilera, J. G., Steiner, F., & Zuffo, A. M. (2025). Analysis of the Variability of the Textile Properties of Brown Cotton Preserved in the Native Communities of the Amazon of the Province of La Convención—Cusco. Diversity, 17(4), 272. https://doi.org/10.3390/d17040272

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